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  1. , Panel de Vidrio: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 , Panel de Vidrio: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Antes de empezar, desconecte su iMac y recuestela sobre una superficie suave.

    • Adhiera una ventosa en los 2 angulos superiores del panel de vidrio.

    • Para pegar las ventosas primero posicione sus manijas paralelas al borde del panel de vidrio. Presione suavemente las ventosas contra el vidrio y gire las manijas de vacio hacia el panel de vidrio.

    • Si sus ventosas no se pegan, limpie la superficie del vidrio y la goma de sus ventosas con un solvente liviano.

    • Insertar traducción aquí

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    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Contestar

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Contestar

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Contestar

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Contestar

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Contestar

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Contestar

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Contestar

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Contestar

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai - Contestar

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio - Contestar

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell - Contestar

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam - Contestar

  2. : paso 2, imagen 1 de 2 : paso 2, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tire despacio el panel de vidrio perpendicular a la cara del LCD con cuidado ya que hay pestañas de metal en la parte inferior del panel de vidrio.

    • Remueva el panel de vidrio hacia arriba sacando cuidadosamente las pestañas de acero y coloque sobre una superficie limpia.

    • Durante la reinstalación, asegurese que la cara interior del panel de vidrio esta perfectamente limpia y que no haya quedado suciedad ni impresiones de dedos sobre el LCD ya que seria visibles al encender el iMac.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Contestar

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 - Contestar

  3. , Pantalla: paso 3, imagen 1 de 3 , Pantalla: paso 3, imagen 2 de 3 , Pantalla: paso 3, imagen 3 de 3
    • Retira los ocho tornillos Torx T10 de 8 mm que sujetan la pantalla a la carcasa exterior.

    • Las dos últimas imágenes son tomas detalladas de cada lado de la pantalla.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin - Contestar

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d - Contestar

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau - Contestar

    I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.

    Michael Ben-Yehuda - Contestar

  4. : paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta ligeramente el borde superior de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa exterior.

    • No lo levantes demasiado. Hay varios cables que conectan la pantalla a la placa lógica.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium - Contestar

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium - Contestar

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d - Contestar

  5. : paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 : paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 : paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Saca el cable plano de sincronización vertical de su zócalo en la placa del controlador LED cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de tu iMac.

    • El cable plano de sincronización vertical tiene un extremo de estilo ZIF, pero el zócalo no tiene bloqueo ni solapa de retención. Simplemente saca el cable de su zócalo hacia el lado de la unidad óptica del iMac para desconectarlo de la placa del controlador LED.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan - Contestar

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan - Contestar

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin - Contestar

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum - Contestar

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius - Contestar

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson - Contestar

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy - Contestar

    Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…

    Peter Barnett -

    Any ideas where to replace this cable?

    Danny Shaw - Contestar

    I followed Suzanne’s comment and also did not disconnect this cable (vertical sync ribbon cable) to avoid damage. I pivoted the screen about 110 degrees after the other cables where detached. On a flat surface, this is easily done and the cable is not tight. Image of my angle if I can drop a link. and cable in this position not in tension.

    investments kkl - Contestar

    Where can I buy the replacement for this vertical sync replacement cable?

    Neil Gonsalves - Contestar

  6. : paso 6, imagen 1 de 3 : paso 6, imagen 2 de 3 : paso 6, imagen 3 de 3
    • Gira la pantalla fuera de la carcasa exterior lo suficiente para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la retroiluminación LED de la placa del controlador LED.

    • Desconecta el cable de alimentación de la retroiluminación LED presionando el mecanismo de bloqueo mientras tiras del conector para sacarlo de su zócalo (hacia el borde inferior del iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Anthony C Carnell - Contestar

  7. : paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Aprieta los dos brazos del conector del cable de datos de la pantalla para desbloquearlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Saca el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado al desconectar y volver a conectar este cable, ya que se daña fácilmente.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin - Contestar

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva - Contestar

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang - Contestar

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. - Contestar

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers - Contestar

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers - Contestar

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Anthony C Carnell -

    Translation: It is better to disconnect the screen side first (under the black sticker)

    Michael Seiler -

  8. : paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Desconecta el conector del cable del sensor térmico LCD de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Si tu ventilador gira a toda velocidad después de completarse, verifica esta conexión o el cable del sensor térmico del disco duro.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    tobykirkland - Contestar

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh - Contestar

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic - Contestar

    English translation of bluesoundsmusic comment: “Caution! This plug can be very tight, here a good fingernail helps to lever the plug alternately right and left”

    investments kkl -

  9. : paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Tira con cuidado de la pantalla hacia el borde superior de tu iMac y sácala de la carcasa exterior, prestando atención a los cables que puedan quedar atrapados.

  10. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable connector up off the Bluetooth board.

  11. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 6.6 mm T8 Torx screw securing the Bluetooth board to the outer case.

  12. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the Bluetooth cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the Bluetooth board.

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Seriously this is so incomplete! What about the cable that connects the Bluetooth to the logic board!?!??? Like this is so half way explanatory!

mamashannon4u - Contestar

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