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Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210

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  1. Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210, Puerta de acceso: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Afloja el único tronillo Phillips en el contro de la puerta de acceso.

    • Este tornillo es del tipo cautivo en la puerta de acceso.

    • Quita la puerta de acceso de tu iMac.

    isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

    grze - Contestar

    It is for the 2133, the 2210 uses 6400

    maccentric - Contestar

    There are comments elsewhere in this step by step re. the bezel removal. That step does NOT show how to remove it. Well, take the 5:39 secs to watch the above video. It clearly shows how the aluminum framed bezel easily comes off once you've seen it done. To whoever decided to preface these instructions with that video, thank you.

    ECJohansen - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210, Panel de Vidrio: paso 2, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210, Panel de Vidrio: paso 2, imagen 2 de 2
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)
    $14.95
    Comprar
    • El panel de vidrio se fija al bisel frontal con catorce imanes alrededor de su perímetro.

    • Pega dos ventosas en las esquinas opuestas del panel de vidrio.

    • Para colocar las ventosas que vendemos, primero coloca la ventosa con el mango móvil paralelo a la cara del panel de vidrio. Mientras sostienes suavemente la ventosa contra el vidrio, levanta la manija móvil hasta que quede paralela con la otra manija.

    • Si tus ventosas se niegan a adherirse, intenta limpiar tanto el panel de vidrio como la ventosa con un disolvente suave como Windex.

    At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

    john31 - Contestar

    My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

    Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

    Mathew Hendry - Contestar

    Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

    damianwise - Contestar

    3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

    Adam McCombs - Contestar

    Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

    Richard - Contestar

    I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

    Lisa Mac - Contestar

    For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

    hadderakk - Contestar

    Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

    Griff in Fairbanks - Contestar

    I can confirm it is fairly easy to pull it up, the heavy duty suction cups were adequate of course, but pretty sure you can do it without heavy duty stuff? Panel is rather light too.

    Julien - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Tira con cuidado del panel de vidrio hacia arriba del iMac.

    • El panel de vidrio tiene varios pines de posicionamiento alrededor de su perímetro. Para evitar cortar estos pasadores del panel de vidrio, asegúrate de tirar solo hacia arriba durante la extracción.

    • Se meticuloso al limpiar la pantalla LCD y la cara interior del panel de vidrio antes de la reinstalación, ya que las huellas dactilares o el polvo atrapado en el interior serán molestamente visibles cuando la pantalla esté encendida.

    • Colocar el vidrio plano, con el interior hacia abajo, sobre una superficie nueva de papel de aluminio es una buena manera de mantenerlo limpio.

    In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

    robgendreau - Contestar

    While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

    For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

    Mathew Hendry - Contestar

    Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

    axel - Contestar

    Although I do not advise it, you can substitute the suction cups with two strips of duct tape along the sides of the glass, with the tape attached to it's self in the middle of the strip

    Erin - Contestar

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    tuansakong99 - Contestar

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    Jason Zak -

  4. Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210, Bisel Frontal: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes 12 tornillos que sujetan el bisel frontal a la carcasa trasera:

    • Ocho Torx T8 de 13 mm.

    • Cuatro Torx T8 de 25 mm.

    On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

    john31 - Contestar

    Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

    TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

    This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

    HIH

    Richdave - Contestar

    On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

    bhoffs - Contestar

    This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Front Bezel Replacement

    thibault - Contestar

    I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

    steven - Contestar

    Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

    edgain99 - Contestar

    I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

    Richard Cacciato - Contestar

    I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

    tom - Contestar

    I cut a hardwood block and drew the outline of the the iMac shape with the base as key. I then drew another two lines at 1/2” and 1” all around from the outline. This done I drilled holes for each screw (12 Outer securing the front bezel to the rear case , and 8 Inner screws securing the display panel to the rear case ). That way I don’t lose any or get them mixed up.

    jmadams - Contestar

    I think the title of this chapter could be (in french) désinstallation but not Installation with is the contrary. Idem for the other chapters.

    Bertrand Guigaz - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210: paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Coloca las manos en las esquinas superiores del bisel (hacia un lado) y levanta el bisel de 2 a 3 cm del cuerpo trabajando desde la parte superior. Después de esto, también puedes desenganchar la parte inferior del bisel (los módulos de memoria evitarán que la parte inferior del bisel se separe primero).

    • Al volver a armar, comienza con la parte inferior del bisel.

    • La parte superior del bisel alberga un micrófono conectado a la placa lógica. Levanta suavemente el bisel para no dañar el cableado o el conector del micrófono tirando accidentalmente del cable.

    • En este punto, puedes desconectar el cable del micrófono y quitar el bisel, o mantener el cable del micrófono conectado y apoyar el bisel en su superficie de trabajo o en el chasis de la Mac.

    • Para separar completamente el bisel: desconecta el conector del cable del micrófono, quitando la cinta según sea necesario.

    • Para mantenerlo conectado, deja el cable del micrófono conectado a la placa lógica y coloca el bisel "sobre" el chasis, con el cable del micrófono formando una bisagra.

    • Si mantienes el micrófono conectado al chasis, asegúrate de no dañar accidentalmente el micrófono o la placa lógica chocando contra el bisel suelto.

    I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

    robgendreau - Contestar

    ^^^ This! This tutorial should be amended for this step. Much, much easier and less damage-prone.

    (There really oughta be a step addressing the removal of the bezel as well.)

    cklarson -

    Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

    Kyle Freeman - Contestar

    CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

    dagnew - Contestar

    Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

    Melvin Hines - Contestar

    As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

    recmsoj - Contestar

    When reassembling the bezel, you should actually gently pull the microphone connector (and cables) through the ~1 inch long slot in the bezel next to the iSight camera, when lowering the top part of the bezel onto the chassis . Then further lower the bezel onto the chassis of the iMac, while making sure there’s no room / play between the bottom of the bezel and the bottom of the body (where the memory slots reside). . This way you’ll avoid damaging the microphone cable. Finally gently push the microphone wires and connector through that sale long slot in the bezel to conceal them inside the bezel.

    Olivier Biot - Contestar

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    tuansakong99 - Contestar

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    Jason Zak -

    The tutorial video is great, but they were fortunate to have such a long microphone cable to work with. The iMac I just upgraded had a cable on the system side (not the one on the bezel) that is barely long enough to provide enough play to be able to grasp the connectors when re-attaching them.

    Disconnecting the microphone cable is done automatically, when you breathe on it. Or look at it. Or reattach the bezel and get it screwed down.

    However, it should be noted that this connector is a LUXURY compared to the first-gen ("polycarbonate") Intel iMacs. Those come configured with the auto-slice microphone cable: the cable simply shears off during disassembly of the case.

    Boyd Waters - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del bisel frontal del iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 y 2210: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • Al volver a montar el bisel:

    • asegúrate de colocar el cable del micrófono y el conector en el espacio vacío junto a la placa de la cámara.

    • Guía con cuidado el conector del micrófono y los cables a través de la ranura de ±1 pulgada de largo a la derecha de la cámara iSight. Una vez que el bisel esté correctamente ensamblado, empuja suavemente el conector del micrófono y el cable dentro del bisel a través de esa ranura.

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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