Introducción
Sigue esta guía para reemplazar el disco duro de tu iMac. Reemplazar el disco duro requiere separar la pantalla y mover el altavoz izquierdo.
Esta guía también incluye pasos para actualizar el disco duro de tu iMac con un SSD. Describe cómo instalar el sensor de temperatura de la SSD para que los ventiladores de la Mac funcionen a la velocidad correcta.
Antes de comenzar cualquier trabajo en tu iMac: Desenchufa la computadora y mantén presionado el botón de encendido durante diez segundos para descargar los condensadores de la fuente de alimentación.
Ten mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador o cualquier unión de soldadura expuesta en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación.
Qué necesitas
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Con la bisagra libre para moverse, la iMac estará desequilibrada y será difícil trabajar en ella. Las reparaciones se pueden completar con el iMac acostado, pero son más rápidas y fáciles con una cuña de servicio del iMac.
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Si utilizas la cuña de servicio de cartón del iFixit, sigue estas instrucciones de montaje para montarlo.
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Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserte la herramienta de apertura de la iMac en el hueco entre el panel de cristal y la carcasa posterior.
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Usa la herramienta como un cortador de pizza, pásala por el hueco y cortará el adhesivo de espuma por el centro.
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Pasa la herramienta por el lado izquierdo de la pantalla.
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Continúa rodando al herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda.
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Coloca laiMac boca arriba sobre una mesa.
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Empezando por la esquina superior derecha del iMac, inserta una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.
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Con las tarjetas insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gire suavemente las tarjetas para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja.
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Si hay alguna sección que parece pegarse y no se separa, deje de retorcer y usa una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo en el área del problema.
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Comienza a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla del marco.
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Mientras sostienes la pantalla con una mano, use la otra para desenchufar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla.
Der Stecker muss seitlich wie die meisten anderen Stecker in diesem Modell komprimiert werden, um ihn aus der Buchse auf dem Logicboard zu ziehen. Die Zugrichtung ist parallel zum Logicboard in Richtung Oberkante des iMac. Ziehen ohne seitliches Zusammendrücken der Backen am Stecker könnte den Stecker oder die Buchse beschädigen.
These instructions are unclear. They imply the cable can just be pulled out but this step had me stuck for a bit. Searching the webs, I discovered that there are little tabs on either side of the connector. I used my prod tool and poked one side and the connector came out a little. I poked the other side the connector came out without a fight.
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Levanta la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical.
After rocking the display back and forth a bit, I found it helpful to use my iMac opening tool to gently slide ever so slightly underneath the bottom of the glass to cut the adhesive. This was with the display lowered back into it its normal position. I just worked about 1 millimetre deep at a time and eventually cut through the ~8” adhesive strip at the bottom centre.
It's possible to skip this step and go to step 24, leaving the display attached. You'll want to open the display just enough to replace the drive, with the machine upright and supported so the display doesn't swivel (I fold up a small pillow and wedge it in there). This way you don't have to worry about damaging the display when removing it, or aligning it when replacing it (which can be difficult to do solo as it's big and heavy).
Using a T8 with a short handle is helpful here, and make sure it's well magnetized so you don't drop the screws for the hard drive (just leave the other ones in the speakers).
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Agarra la pequeña pestaña al final de una de las tiras adhesivas de la pantalla del borde inferior y tira del adhesivo hacia la parte superior de la iMac para quitarlo.
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Repite este paso con la otra tira adhesiva y quítala.
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Levanta la pantalla del marco y sácala del iMac. Coloca la pantalla boca abajo sobre una superficie plana y suave.
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Puede que sea necesario levantarla lentamente por un lado, para despegar el adhesivo restante.
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Usa un destornillador T10 para remover los dos tornillos de 10 mm que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo.
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Tira directamente del cable combinado SATA para desconectarlo de la unidad.
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Utiliza un destornillador T8 para quitar los dos tornillos de 7.3 mm que fijan el soporte izquierdo del disco duro a la carcasa trasera.
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Quita los cuatro postes de tornillo T8 de 8.1 mm del disco duro y transfiérelos al receptáculo de la unidad de reemplazo.
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Alinea los conectores de la SSD con las tomas de la caja metálica.
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Presiona la unidad contra las tomas de la carcasa hasta que la SSD quede firmemente asentada.
what if I’m installing a hard drive?
Didn’t bother with the SSD caddy. Some 3M sticky pads did the trick!
Been using them for years...works great.
Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:
1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)
2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if
Can I buy the kit without the SSD. I'm thinking of replacing my 3TB hard drive with a 4TB SSD.
Also, would you happen to know what the maximum hard drive dimension that can fit inside of this iMac? I may try a 14TB hard drive instead.
A 14Tb HDD does not represent any problem. But I will care about rising temperature. Must attach a heat sensor. If rise to high, it will suddenly shutdown to protect it.
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Conecta el cable de alimentación SATA habilitado para sensores incluido en el puerto del recinto.
Is the thermal sensor needed? I fitted a replacement SSD and it’s all back together and the iMac’s fans are fine. They don’t go into full max speed mode.
If you have a problem with the fans, you can always use Macs Fan Control (free) to set the speed. The sensor is not needed.
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Despega el revestimiento blanco de la parte posterior de la pequeña placa del sensor de temperatura para exponer el adhesivo.
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Pega la placa del sensor de temperatura a una superficie metálica expuesta del SSD, cerca del conector SATA.
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Dobla los cables del sensor de temperatura sobrantes para que estén fuera del camino mientras instalas la caja.
Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?
Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.
Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD
Confirmed, no need for the extra temp sensor on Mid-2015 iMac. (EMC 2806, Mid-2015 27" iMac). Just changed the old 1TB HDD to SSD, no extra fan RPM after power on.
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Coloca los soportes de montaje que se hayan retirado del disco duro antiguo en el recinto.
i don't have a combo cable.i also didn't have asata drive. just a blade ssd. i don't see wwhere i could add a cable
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Desliza el recinto del SSD en el espacio que ocupaba anteriormente el disco duro.
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Encamina los cables SATA para que no interfieran con ningún otro componente.
The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.
Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.
As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.
This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.
For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.
I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.
Try 3m double sided tape from Amazon, it available in 3mm width which is ideal for iMac screen. It has a very thin foam and is much better quality than the cheap Chinese kits available on Amazon. You will have to trim it to size with a sharp craft blade as you fit. Don’t risk your screen falling off from using cheap tape in the so called fitting kits!
In my Late 2012 27" iMac I Scotch-taped the SATA connector to the case to stop it from pushing against the screen after reassembly.
Only 39 steps!
Is it possible to clone the internal disk and have the imac boot off the external SSD?
The extension cable is too long. I folded it over carefully & stuck it down to the case using a double sided sticky pad. Photo here
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Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original; es posible que debas transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un [[E-Waste|centro de reciclaje certificado
¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra Comunidad de respuestas para obtener ayuda para solucionar problemas.
Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original; es posible que debas transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un [[E-Waste|centro de reciclaje certificado
¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra Comunidad de respuestas para obtener ayuda para solucionar problemas.
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9 comentarios
What’s the difference with this guide? Reemplazo de Disco Duro del iMac Intel 27" pantalla retina 5K
Hello, I have an iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) and I would like to change my hard disk, which is a 3.5GHz 1TB Fusion Unit, for an SSD disk, would you recommend doing it? And if so, what reference or brand do you recommend to do it?
I can confirm the OWC thermal sensor cable is not needed for HDD to SSD upgrade. I successfully upgraded my 2017 5k iMac fusion drive’s HDD to WD blue 2TB SATA3 ssd without it and the fans speeds don’t ramp up at all. Anyhow thanks for your guides Ifixit on how to DIY. I successfully upgraded my 128gb NVME to a 1TB NVME and to a SATA3 ssd for storage. Transfer speeds are insane and my boot up time now only takes 12 seconds compared to 32 seconds previously. I also upgraded my cpu from the i5-7600k to the i7-7700k. My 2017 5k iMac is blazing fast now. Thanks again ifixit.
Successfully upgraded to a 2TB SSD from the 2TB Fusion drive. As soon as I turned on Bootcamp, the Fusion drive went nuts for a few weeks I think because it prioritized the Windows side onto the SSD and the Mac side onto the spinning drive. It eventually corrected itself but it was a helluva time. And it was time for a fresh hard drive anyway. $500 is much cheaper than a new iMac. Highly recommend this one. This was way easier than my upgrades to the 2009 and to a Mac Mini.
Excellent instructions. The process is straightforward - the only tricky bit is reinstalling the screen accurately. There seems to be some conflicting views on the internet about the best way to do it and which adhesive strips to use - the 2012-2015 strips now seem to be supplied for later models, and they worked fine on my 2017 iMac.
My advice is just to take take it all very steadily and always read one stage ahead before you start on your next stage just to know where you are going next. I installed a 2TB Crucial SSD and the results are very good.
ive been looking for info on the blade drive as wiping a newly installed SSD and installing OS works, but what is best practice for this? what do we use the blade for after, is it just wiped and left redundant? - as for the temp control, just install Macs Fan Control.
i did this but then my imac showed a folder with a question mark on it
Great guide! Amazing work here.
What’s the point of this? You run the wheel around the outside, and then you lay it down anyway to pull the glass and do the rest. The wedge is not needed.
ebay - Contestar
I have a story to tell about this teardown. It all went wonderfully well until after I completed the process and attempted to format my new SSD drive only to discovery that the capacity of the drive was 256GB… not the 2TB I was sure I had ordered. iFixit was very supportive and helpful in sending me a new set of sticky tape strips and and RMA to return the SSD and some of the other parts.
I finally had received my new set of strips and the 2TB SSD…. I figured, piece of cake… I already know how to do this… but I watched the video again and started following the teardown…
…apparently the new sticky tape strips was way more powerful that the original tape and while using the pizza cutter tool and not advancing much, I proceeded to use one of the iFixit credit card style wedges…. I now have 2 pretty severe cracks on the glass of my display, which as clearly explained by @mayer can only be replaced by an entire display… which runs at about $500. Cosmetically it looks horrible, but it works… for now.
Erich Hentschel - Contestar