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Qué necesitas

  1. , Bateria: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use una moneda para girar el tornillo de bloqueo de la batería 90 grados en el sentido de las agujas del reloj.

  2. : paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levante la bateria de la computadora.

  3. , Teclado: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Tire de las pestañas de liberación del teclado hacia usted y levante el teclado hasta que se libere.

    • Si el teclado no se suelta, use un destornillador plano pequeño para girar el tornillo de bloqueo del teclado 180 grados en cualquier dirección y vuelva a intentarlo.

    • Da la vuelta al teclado, lejos de la pantalla, y recuéstelo boca abajo en el área del trackpad.

  4. : paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Si la computadora tiene una tarjeta AirPort instalada, siga los siguientes tres pasos para eliminarla.

    • Empuje el broche de alambre lejos de la tarjeta AirPort y hacia la pantalla, luego gire hacia arriba para liberarlo de la protección de RAM.

  5. : paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Sujete la lengüeta de plástico transparente en la tarjeta AirPort y tire hacia la pantalla.

  6. : paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Sostenga la tarjeta AirPort con una mano y use su otra mano para quitar el cable de la antena.

  7. : paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire los cuatro tornillos plateados Phillips que aseguran el protector de RAM.

  8. : paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Sujete el soporte de metal en la parte superior del protector de RAM y tire hacia arriba para quitar el protector.

  9. : paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Tire del cable del teclado hacia arriba desde la placa lógica, sosteniendo el cable lo más cerca posible del conector.

    • Asegúrese de volver a conectar el cable del teclado antes de reemplazar el protector de RAM.

  10. , Carcasa Inferior.: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Utiliza un alfiler (o lo que quieras) para retirar las tres patas de goma de la carcasa inferior.

    1.3 flathead screwdriver works better than a pin.

    Carlos Ferrari - Contestar

  11. : paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips recién revelados.

  12. : paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Utiliza un spudger o un destornillador plano pequeño para hacer palanca y levantar los tres anillos metálicos que alojaban los topes de goma.

  13. : paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los tres tornillos hexagonales con un destornillador Torx T8 (o los tornillos Allen con una llave Allen si se utilizan).

    • El tornillo más corto está en el centro del ordenador.

    Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

    dalekaty - Contestar

    Cita de dalekaty:

    Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.

    Had the same issue with a T8, although I blamed that on my T8 being quite stripped. Finding an appropriate bit was quite a challenge... but I'm pretty certain a T8 isn't correct. The screws have a hex head, not a Torx... maybe T8 is the closest thing that tends to fit...

    Matt Falcon - Contestar

    The screw on the left wasnt able to get tight for some reason

    Helena - Contestar

    Not Torx, but allen key (British wrench), 2mm

    alicelittle - Contestar

    I attempted this last night following all the steps correctly, when I was done my ibook would not turn on. Now sure where I went wrong? Any ideas. Thank you

    stefanienikole - Contestar

  14. : paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips situados a ambos lados de los contactos de la batería.

  15. : paso 15, imagen 1 de 1
    • Respira hondo. Se avecinan tiempos difíciles, pero te prometemos que las minúsculas se quitan.

    • Empuja hacia dentro los bordes finos de la carcasa inferior que rodean el compartimento de la batería, doblándolos más allá de las pestañas, y luego levántalos para liberar esa esquina de la carcasa inferior.

    I printed these instructions out, and this one was at the top of page 2. I found the first paragraph amusing enough that I had to show my boss.

    Kristoffer Bisher - Contestar

  16. : paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Hay una ranura en la pared del compartimento de la batería que bloquea la carcasa inferior en su lugar. Utiliza un destornillador plano pequeño para hacer palanca en el borde inferior de la ranura y tira hacia arriba de la carcasa inferior para liberar la ranura de las lengüetas que la sujetan.

    • Ten cuidado de no romper este clip.

  17. : paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • Pasa un spudger a lo largo de la costura entre la carcasa inferior y la carcasa superior en la parte frontal del ordenador para liberar las lengüetas que bloquean la carcasa inferior. Tira hacia arriba de la carcasa inferior y continúa utilizando el spudger según sea necesario hasta que oigas tres clics distintos.

  18. : paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Continúa pasando el spudger alrededor de la esquina delantera derecha. Hay dos pestañas en el lado del puerto del ordenador, una cerca de la esquina frontal y otra cerca del puerto de salida de sonido.

    For me, this was really the toughest part! Trying to find/get a good grip on the iBook and really *forcing* that spudger around. All without scratching the display.

    bccreative - Contestar

    Once you loosen the the front the seam is very tight. I was able to slide the spudger in the middle of the port side instead of starting at the corner.

    Robert Oliver - Contestar

  19. : paso 19, imagen 1 de 1
    • Hay tres lengüetas sobre la unidad óptica que deben soltarse antes de poder extraer la carcasa inferior. Desliza el spudger en el caso inferior por encima de la unidad óptica y ejecutarlo hacia la parte posterior de la computadora hasta que escuches tres clics distintos.

  20. : paso 20, imagen 1 de 1
    • Una vez que la parte frontal y los laterales de la carcasa inferior estén libres, gira el ordenador de modo que la parte posterior esté orientada hacia ti y tira de la carcasa inferior hacia arriba y hacia ti hasta que las pestañas posteriores salten (puede ser útil sacudir la carcasa hacia arriba y hacia abajo).

    This was the scariest part for me. I had to wiggle it a lot as it seemed to be stuck. But it did come loose.

    Robert Oliver - Contestar

    There are 4 tabs in the back. It'll come off easier if you use an spudger to release those.

    Carlos Ferrari - Contestar

  21. : paso 21, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los pequeños muelles grasientos con tapones de plástico blanco de cada lado de los contactos de la batería.

  22. , Escudo inferior: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos del escudo inferior:

    • Seis Phillips de 3 mm

    • Tres Phillips de 7,5 mm

    • Uno Phillips de 14 mm

    My 1 GHz iBook G4 only had the two 7.5 mm Phillips on the right and the two 3 mm Phillips above the battery compartment.

    geekspeak - Contestar

  23. : paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta el escudo inferior.

    The front of the foil cover has a lip divided into four separate tabs. Use a blade to loosen each as they can be easily bent.

    geekspeak - Contestar

    My dc board had 2 screws. for some reason when i tried to screw them both back in only one got tight. the other one just kept twirling so i left it out. i didnt want to have a loose screw rattling around in my computer.

    also had trouble laying down the wire to the dc board. it wouldnt lay flat but i was able to get it flat enough. overall it worked and the computer is now up and running!

    thank you! it was pretty easy

    Helena - Contestar

  24. , Placa DC-In: paso 24, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el único tornillo Phillips que sujeta la tarjeta DC-In.

    This is the first screw of the many on this part of the tear down that really needs the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    turtlejp - Contestar

    At this point alternate hard drive can be connected to logic board for testing. Alternate hard drive and drive cable req'd. Remove hard drive cable from logic board. Plug in alternate cable and drive.

    A81Sturmer - Contestar

    My 1 GHz DC board had two Phillips, one on the far left and one next to the Z10B label.

    geekspeak - Contestar

  25. : paso 25, imagen 1 de 1
    • Desconecta el cable DC-In de la placa lógica.

    My entire black woven cable cover was stuck down pretty well w/ 2x stick tape.

    bccreative - Contestar

  26. : paso 26, imagen 1 de 1
    • Desenchufa el cable que rodea la unidad óptica, retirando la cinta adhesiva si es necesario, y saca la tarjeta DC-In de su compartimento.

    On this iBook, the DC board had a small Phillips screw on it.

    adamprall - Contestar

    Woops - never mind - neglected the screw from previous step.

    adamprall - Contestar

    Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

    drscole - Contestar

    Cita de drscole:

    Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

    I agree - having the right tools is the key to this going smoothly. It would have useful to have more detail around where the long and short screws go on the heat shield. This is minor niggle and overall good instructions.

    jlwatts1 - Contestar

    Oops! I hit the wrong button. I did not mean to "Flag as inappropriate".

    geekspeak - Contestar

    Cita de drscole:

    Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.

    The egg crate is a good idea. I use a piece of cardboard and I label each step and layout the screws visually as I pulled them out.

    geekspeak - Contestar

  27. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment. (Some models may only have two screws.)

    • Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

    • One 11 mm Phillips in the lower right corner. (if present)

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

    The middle screw along the optical drive got sucked sideways into an opening by something magnetic and proved impossible to get out with a bit of blutack on the end of a screwdriver. In the end turning it over and giving it a smart tap worked.

    tatterjack - Contestar

    - the 3 red screws located around the battery compartment are absent. (I never opened my

    G4 before).

    - the 3 orange screws along the optical drive bezel are deep located and I can't see where to

    place the screwdriver. By trying I run the risk to damage the screw head.

    su40 - Contestar

    I realized that there are no screws 3 red and3 orange, the are only 4 green ones and a yellow one.

    su40 - Contestar

  28. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 28, imagen 1 de 1
    • We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

    • Turn over the computer and open it.

    • Remove the 2 Phillips screws (3mm) from the edges of the keyboard area.

    • Remove the 4 mm Phillips screw from the lower left corner.

    bottom right philips head screw removed just fine. Upper and lower left don't seem to fit any of my philips screwdrivers. What size are those screws?

    jimryan - Contestar

    The "two 3mm" screws are actually 4mm and the 4mm (orange) is the 3mm

    tjod - Contestar

  29. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 29, imagen 1 de 1
    • Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps. Be especially careful with these cables; never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly.

    • Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different than the one pictured.

  30. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 30, imagen 1 de 1
    • Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.

  31. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 31, imagen 1 de 1
    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    I have pulled it off, now what?????

    Ester - Contestar

    I have fixed it!! Whooohooo!!

    Bought a soldering bolt and wire, and fixed it in 10 minutes myself, I'm so proud of me..... ;)

    But I hope I won't have to open it again! And the 3 screws which are left.... hmmmm never mind. :D

    Ester - Contestar

    Yup. Take off that shield first. I'm lucky my father in law is good at soldering, because I'm not, and that power switch connector fell off the moment I touched it....

    Jaddle - Contestar

    I skipped this and the next step altogether. Instead of taking the risk of breaking the power and/or speaker sockets, I left them connected. I put a stack of big books just to the left of the iBook. I swiveled the top case off and let it lean against the books. I removed the top shield and carefully swiveled it off and to the left, so it is now leaning on the top case. I had to move the power cable out of the way, and re-orient the top case so it's resting on it's back edge while the shield was resting on it's left edge. Then I slid the iBook towards the edge of the table and disconnected the HD ribbon from below! I then proceeded with removing the HD and putting in the new one.

    Hilal Malawi - Contestar

    When putting the rings back you will need to figure out their correct orientation. Just rotate each ring until you find the position that will make it flush with the case. There are three possible positions but only one of them is the right fit.

    Hilal Malawi - Contestar

    As the other comments make plain, you can't overemphasize that the power connector is in tight, and it is much easier to pull the connector off the board. That's what happened to me -- I'm really bad at soldering, so I will be looking for a replacement board. Oh well.

    Don Solomon - Contestar

  32. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 32, imagen 1 de 1
    • Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    these connectors can be very loose and break from the logic board. I have left this one connected until after the next step, at which point I can pull it out more carefully and easily.

    -Dan "The Berkeley Mac Guy"

    Dan Fries - Contestar

    I second Dan's method. The top shield makes it impossible to pry between the connector and its socket. The socket is so poorly affixed to the logic board that you must be very careful to apply leverage between the connect and socket.

    Kent - Contestar

    now you tell me!! So then what if you have pulled it off? How very depressing.

    anakowi - Contestar

    If you pull it off, find a place that does micro-soldering. What a pain!

    Check your local Chinatown, you might find someone who worked in an electronics factory, like I did. Or scrap the thing and check on craigslist.org for a replacement.

    Dan Fries - Contestar

    haha - doubt I will ever open up this baby again. That was gruelling. Lucky it was only the built-in speaker cable - I use headphones or a portable speaker if I need sound now.

    anakowi - Contestar

  33. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 33, imagen 1 de 1
    • The screw circled in orange may not be present in some models.

    • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)

    • Two 4 mm Phillips.

    • Be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

    • Missing in this photo is the Bluetooth antenna present in some iBooks. It is located at the upper right corner of the battery compartment, just above the 4mm screw. You can see the bracket for the antenna in the photo. It is the two I-shaped holes just above the 4mm screw that must be removed in this step. To remove the antenna, slide it toward the LCD, and tilt it vertically back towards yourself.

    Missing in this photo is the Bluetooth antenna present in some iBooks. It is located at the upper right corner of the battery compartment, just above the 4mm screw. You can see the bracket for the antenna in the photo. It is the two I-shaped holes just above the 4mm screw that must be removed in this step. To remove the antenna, slide it toward the LCD, and tilt it vertically back towards yourself. In the next step, where the shield is removed, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole.

    Sean Brannon - Contestar

  34. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 34, imagen 1 de 1
    • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

    • If your iBook has Bluetooth, as discussed in the previous step, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole in the shield before completely removing the shield.

    The shield on this iBook had a small sensor threaded through the opening directly above the battery compartment opening, on the right near the edge of it. I just carefully threaded the sensor through that hole in order to remove the shield.

    adamprall - Contestar

  35. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 35, imagen 1 de 1
    • Due to variations between iBook G4 models, your modem may look slightly different from the picture. All of the following steps apply to either model.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

  36. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 36, imagen 1 de 1
    • Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.

  37. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 37, imagen 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.

    • When replacing the modem, first make sure that both the microphone and display data cables are routed beneath where the modem lies.

  38. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 38, imagen 1 de 1
    • Turn the computer over.

    • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

  39. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 39, imagen 1 de 1
    • Turn the computer back over.

    • The cable you're about to remove is very fragile - do not pull directly on the wires. Instead, try to pry up the connector directly, using a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver if necessary.

    • Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.

    The side of the case has a alight recess that the connector fits in. Pulling the case out lets it come out more easily.

    tatterjack - Contestar

    Cita de tatterjack:

    The side of the case has a slight recess that the connector fits in. Pulling the case out lets it come out more easily.

    tatterjack - Contestar

  40. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 40, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the black plastic loop to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

  41. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 41, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deroute the microphone and display data cables from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

  42. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 42, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deroute the AirPort antenna cable from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

  43. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 43, imagen 1 de 1
    • Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

    • The screws go in the outer holes on each side (you can see the threads in the correct hole).

  44. Este paso está sin traducir. Ayuda a traducirlo

    : paso 44, imagen 1 de 1
    • Lift the display up and tilt it backwards, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and slide it away from you.

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Very nice guide, thanks!

I call this the “You Gotta Be Kidding Me” Era of Mac repair. The Flat Panel iMac, the iBooks… good times. If I actually get the iBook G4 running I will be most happy to update this comment.

Boyd Waters - Contestar

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