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Qué necesitas
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Use una moneda para girar el tornillo de bloqueo de la batería 90 grados en el sentido de las agujas del reloj.
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Tire de las pestañas de liberación del teclado hacia usted y levante el teclado hasta que se libere.
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Da la vuelta al teclado, lejos de la pantalla, y recuéstelo boca abajo en el área del trackpad.
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Utiliza un alfiler (o lo que quieras) para retirar las tres patas de goma de la carcasa inferior.
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Retira los tres tornillos hexagonales con un destornillador Torx T8 (o los tornillos Allen con una llave Allen si se utilizan).
Cita de dalekaty:
Why use a T8 Torx when these screws are metric hex 2? The T8 didn't work at all. Other than that this was a very easy repair. It cost $29 instead of the $150 that I paid the last time a Mac shop made the same repair.
Had the same issue with a T8, although I blamed that on my T8 being quite stripped. Finding an appropriate bit was quite a challenge... but I'm pretty certain a T8 isn't correct. The screws have a hex head, not a Torx... maybe T8 is the closest thing that tends to fit...
Not Torx, but allen key (British wrench), 2mm
I attempted this last night following all the steps correctly, when I was done my ibook would not turn on. Now sure where I went wrong? Any ideas. Thank you
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Empuja hacia dentro los bordes finos de la carcasa inferior que rodean el compartimento de la batería, doblándolos más allá de las pestañas, y luego levántalos para liberar esa esquina de la carcasa inferior.
I printed these instructions out, and this one was at the top of page 2. I found the first paragraph amusing enough that I had to show my boss.
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Hay una ranura en la pared del compartimento de la batería que bloquea la carcasa inferior en su lugar. Utiliza un destornillador plano pequeño para hacer palanca en el borde inferior de la ranura y tira hacia arriba de la carcasa inferior para liberar la ranura de las lengüetas que la sujetan.
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Pasa un spudger a lo largo de la costura entre la carcasa inferior y la carcasa superior en la parte frontal del ordenador para liberar las lengüetas que bloquean la carcasa inferior. Tira hacia arriba de la carcasa inferior y continúa utilizando el spudger según sea necesario hasta que oigas tres clics distintos.
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Continúa pasando el spudger alrededor de la esquina delantera derecha. Hay dos pestañas en el lado del puerto del ordenador, una cerca de la esquina frontal y otra cerca del puerto de salida de sonido.
For me, this was really the toughest part! Trying to find/get a good grip on the iBook and really *forcing* that spudger around. All without scratching the display.
Once you loosen the the front the seam is very tight. I was able to slide the spudger in the middle of the port side instead of starting at the corner.
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Una vez que la parte frontal y los laterales de la carcasa inferior estén libres, gira el ordenador de modo que la parte posterior esté orientada hacia ti y tira de la carcasa inferior hacia arriba y hacia ti hasta que las pestañas posteriores salten (puede ser útil sacudir la carcasa hacia arriba y hacia abajo).
This was the scariest part for me. I had to wiggle it a lot as it seemed to be stuck. But it did come loose.
There are 4 tabs in the back. It'll come off easier if you use an spudger to release those.
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Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos del escudo inferior:
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Seis Phillips de 3 mm
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Tres Phillips de 7,5 mm
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Uno Phillips de 14 mm
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Levanta el escudo inferior.
My dc board had 2 screws. for some reason when i tried to screw them both back in only one got tight. the other one just kept twirling so i left it out. i didnt want to have a loose screw rattling around in my computer.
also had trouble laying down the wire to the dc board. it wouldnt lay flat but i was able to get it flat enough. overall it worked and the computer is now up and running!
thank you! it was pretty easy
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Retira el único tornillo Phillips que sujeta la tarjeta DC-In.
At this point alternate hard drive can be connected to logic board for testing. Alternate hard drive and drive cable req'd. Remove hard drive cable from logic board. Plug in alternate cable and drive.
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Desconecta el cable DC-In de la placa lógica.
My entire black woven cable cover was stuck down pretty well w/ 2x stick tape.
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Desenchufa el cable que rodea la unidad óptica, retirando la cinta adhesiva si es necesario, y saca la tarjeta DC-In de su compartimento.
Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.
Cita de drscole:
Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.
I agree - having the right tools is the key to this going smoothly. It would have useful to have more detail around where the long and short screws go on the heat shield. This is minor niggle and overall good instructions.
Cita de drscole:
Went pretty smoothly as described. I used an egg crate marked for each step where screws were removed to keep them all sorted out (OCD vs. old age). Only other tip was that in step #5 the rings and screws at the corners of the back seemed to be integrated and came out together, the rubber feet came up by pulling from the side - didn't really require a thumb tack. Otherwise, having the right tools (described) made it a snap.
The egg crate is a good idea. I use a piece of cardboard and I label each step and layout the screws visually as I pulled them out.
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Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:
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Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment. (Some models may only have two screws.)
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Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)
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One 11 mm Phillips in the lower right corner. (if present)
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Four 14.5 mm Phillips.
The middle screw along the optical drive got sucked sideways into an opening by something magnetic and proved impossible to get out with a bit of blutack on the end of a screwdriver. In the end turning it over and giving it a smart tap worked.
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Turn over the computer and open it.
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Remove the 2 Phillips screws (3mm) from the edges of the keyboard area.
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Remove the 4 mm Phillips screw from the lower left corner.
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Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different than the one pictured.
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Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.
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Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
I skipped this and the next step altogether. Instead of taking the risk of breaking the power and/or speaker sockets, I left them connected. I put a stack of big books just to the left of the iBook. I swiveled the top case off and let it lean against the books. I removed the top shield and carefully swiveled it off and to the left, so it is now leaning on the top case. I had to move the power cable out of the way, and re-orient the top case so it's resting on it's back edge while the shield was resting on it's left edge. Then I slid the iBook towards the edge of the table and disconnected the HD ribbon from below! I then proceeded with removing the HD and putting in the new one.
When putting the rings back you will need to figure out their correct orientation. Just rotate each ring until you find the position that will make it flush with the case. There are three possible positions but only one of them is the right fit.
As the other comments make plain, you can't overemphasize that the power connector is in tight, and it is much easier to pull the connector off the board. That's what happened to me -- I'm really bad at soldering, so I will be looking for a replacement board. Oh well.
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Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
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Remove the following 16 screws:
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Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.
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One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)
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Two 4 mm Phillips.
Missing in this photo is the Bluetooth antenna present in some iBooks. It is located at the upper right corner of the battery compartment, just above the 4mm screw. You can see the bracket for the antenna in the photo. It is the two I-shaped holes just above the 4mm screw that must be removed in this step. To remove the antenna, slide it toward the LCD, and tilt it vertically back towards yourself. In the next step, where the shield is removed, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole.
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Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.
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If your iBook has Bluetooth, as discussed in the previous step, you will need to slide the antenna through the lower I-shaped hole in the shield before completely removing the shield.
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Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.
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Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.
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Turn the computer over.
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Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.
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Turn the computer back over.
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Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.
The side of the case has a alight recess that the connector fits in. Pulling the case out lets it come out more easily.
Cita de tatterjack:
The side of the case has a slight recess that the connector fits in. Pulling the case out lets it come out more easily.
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Use the black plastic loop to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.
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Deroute the microphone and display data cables from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.
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Deroute the AirPort antenna cable from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.
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Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
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Lift the display up and tilt it backwards, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and slide it away from you.
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Very nice guide, thanks!
I call this the “You Gotta Be Kidding Me” Era of Mac repair. The Flat Panel iMac, the iBooks… good times. If I actually get the iBook G4 running I will be most happy to update this comment.