Introducción
Esta guía le mostrará cómo quitar las placas base para acceder a los botones y activadores.
Qué necesitas
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Retira la cubierta del paquete de baterías.
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Retira las baterías.
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Sujeta el controlador firmemente para quitar las asas laterales, encajando un spudger en la costura entre la parte delantera y las placas del mango.
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Levanta la placa lateral alejándola de la placa frontal moviendo el spudger hacia adelante y hacia atrás. Tendrás que hacer esto en toda la costura de la placa lateral.
One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?
As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.
Brandon -
I don’t have a squdger
getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.
Dont think ill be doing this in the future
edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.
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Utiliza el destornillador para hacer un agujero en el centro, y poder así, quitar el tornillo
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Quita los 5 tornillos de 10mm que están en la parte trasera del mando utilizando el TR8 Security Torx Screwdriver.
It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.
All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.
The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger
These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.
The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.
where do you get this dumb ass screw driver
You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.
thank you for this. worked for me
TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.
As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont
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Desolda los cables rojos y negros de la parte superior de la placa
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Desolda los cables negros y grises de la parte superior de la placa
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Remueve los motores vibradores y déjalos aun lado.
Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.
like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,
for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short
and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.
If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.
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Desatornilla los dos tornillos de T6 de 7mm localizados cerca de las bases de los motores.
Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?
The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.
Rongwey -
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Sujeta firmemente la placa superior cerca del medio
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Levanta hacia arriba mientras mueve ligeramente la placa base hacia adelante y hacia atrás.
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Quita la cinta amarilla que mantiene los cables en su posición en la parte delantera del controlador.
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Retire los seis tornillos T6 Torx ubicados en la placa base inferior.
Where can I find the connectors at for the motherboard??
This guide completely skips the part about removing the trigger buttons. There are 2 screws per trigger that need to be removed so there are actually 10 T6 screws to remove.
There’s also 2 small rumble packs under the trigger buttons that no one mentioned. Someone got lazy when writing this step.
I didn't need to remove them. Leave the triggers on and saved some effort
Hey @jasonasnes good catch! It looks like maybe they forgot to add the trigger/trigger rumble motor prerequisite, so I went ahead and added that in there. That guide makes no mention of how the rumble motors are attached, but I think they’re soldered to the motherboard, so I added a note to desolder those wires prior to removal. I think you could probably also just desolder those wires and leave the triggers in place when removing the motherboard, but I’m not certain! Hope that helps!
@sam I was able to complete this with the missing information but thank you for updating it for those to come in the future. Minus these couple of discrepancies and it’s a great guide. Yes, all 4 of the rumble motors are soldered onto the upper motherboard. Step 6 actually highlights this with the exception of mentioning the 2 small rumble motors in the triggers. You bring up a good point, it might be possible to leave the triggers in place during this process. I used this guide as a teardown instead of as a replacement so I could refurbish the plastic shell and clean the interior of my day one controller so I completely stripped mine. However, I believe that the triggers could remain in place if your goal is to get to the lower motherboard.
You can lift off the top motherboard without desoldering the black/red wires to the large rumble motors, just be careful because the wires are delicate enough that you can break them off at the solder joint. It’s not a huge deal if you do, because they’re long enough that you can strip the ends and have plenty of room to resolder.
You can even very carefully remove the lower motherboard without desoldering the black/gray wires, and without removing the trigger assemblies, but there’s almost no room to work in there if you choose to go this route, because the wires will leave you only at most an inch of space to get in there under the lower motherboard. Also, leaving the trigger assemblies in place makes it very difficult to get the lower motherboard back into place without pinching or moving the conductive rubber button pad.
It's cumbersome but avoids soldering which I'm not experienced with and worked to replace the button membrane for me
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Quite los parachoques sacándolos de las clavijas que los aseguran, usando un spudger. Están ubicados en la parte frontal y posterior del controlador.
At some point I had 2 little white pieces come out and I didnt see them till the very end. Does anyone know where these are spossed to go? They kinda look looe shims? Thank you.
They go behind the trigger buttons on the board against the metal. Narrow side towards the button.
Rongwey -
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Levante la pieza que rodea el botón Inicio de sus clavijas.
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Sacarlo del otro lado, usando un spudger en los pasadores.
2 things missing in this step:
1) You will have to press down on the power button in order to release the plastic retaining piece.
2) The button that syncs the controller to the system completely separates from the plastic frame. If you're not careful you could lose the thing.
Thanks NavyVet2015!
The sync button fell out on me and I was pondering what it was for a while.
Nothing is holding that little guy in so watch it!
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Para volver a armar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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Equipo
Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015 Miembro de Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015
CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G15
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50 Guías creadas
11 comentarios
Is de-soldering optional?
Considering the placement of wires attached by solder on both sides of the top board, it would be quite difficult to reach anything beneath it otherwise. I suppose it depends on what you're trying to achieve.
In any case, you might as well try to move it without desoldering if desoldering is going to be an issue. Make sure not to pull hard, though.
Liam Gow -
I have a question... Will the motherboard you can get at the store here work it the newer controllers with built in headphone jack?
I would expect not, I'm afraid. The motherboards will probably have different circuitry, even if the shapes are the same, which they may not be.
Liam Gow -
The position/mounting of the LB and RB buttons on the motherboard piece between the day-one/sans-jack and the newer 3.5mm jack (non-Slim) boards are completely different.
The older revision motherboard has the mountings inverted (pointing downwards to the south end-headset attachment port- of the controller) compared to the newer ones.
The newer ones have the circuit with the bumper buttons mounted pointing to the north end toward the bumpers on the top of the controller.
Quick question. I was disassembling my controller to fix something and noticed that the piece labeled R91 (the little grey square in the bottom center of the motherboard) looked as if it had been chipped. The part that is chipped is half of the top flat part of the grey piece. What is the purpose of this piece and is it something that will stop my controller from working properly?
I know nothing about this kind of stuff, and it's only the second controller I have ever taken apart so I'm sorry if this is a dumb question.
Thanks in advance!!
My 3.5mm jack doesn’t work on my new Xbox one controller. I’m told it’s not even soldered in. How hard would it be to solder in place?
It depend on the size of the pins you a to sold it on , and the size of your soldering gun , but it’s pretty easy if you are a little experienced. But if it’s brand new , why don’t you send it back to the store ?
Please can someone help me tell me how to repair my Xbox one controller lt rt are not working. I cleaned the magnet and still is not working.
