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Derecho a reparar

Partes y herramientas

Introducción

Aprende a sustituir la pantalla de tu iPhone 5c. Esta pieza viene con la cámara frontal, el altavoz del auricular y el cable del sensor ya instalados, haciendo que la reparación sea mucho más fácil.

Todo lo que necesitas hacer es separar la pantalla antigua y transferir el botón de Inicio a la nueva pantalla.

Resumen del Video

  1. Si tu pantalla está rota, evita que hayan más desperfectos o que sufras algún accidente con las piezas rotas colocando cinta adhesiva sobre el cristal de la pantalla. Coloca varias capas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrirla completamente. Esto hará que los trozos de cristal no se desprendan y proporcionará integridad estructural mientras abres y levantas la pantalla.
    • Si tu pantalla está rota, evita que hayan más desperfectos o que sufras algún accidente con las piezas rotas colocando cinta adhesiva sobre el cristal de la pantalla.

    • Coloca varias capas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrirla completamente.

    • Esto hará que los trozos de cristal no se desprendan y proporcionará integridad estructural mientras abres y levantas la pantalla.

    • Usa gafas de seguridad para proteger tus ojos de cualquier fragmento de esquina que pueda desprenderse durante la reparación.

  2. Antes de continuar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de ion de litio puede arder y/o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
    • Antes de continuar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de ion de litio puede arder y/o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de empezar a desarmarlo.

    • Separa los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3.8 mm en ambos lados del conector Lightning.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - Contestar

    I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

    Jim Thomas - Contestar

    My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.

    Cody Craven - Contestar

    @codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  3. Los siguientes dos pasos te mostrarán cómo se usa el iSclack, una gran herramienta para abrir de manera segura el iPhone 5c y que recomendamos a cualquiera que quiera reparar más de una vez un iPhone 5, 5s o 5c. Si no vas a usar el iSclack, ve directamente al Paso 5. Cierra el agarre del iSclack, abriendo las mandíbulas succionadoras. Coloca la parte inferior de tu iPhone entre las ventosas, apoyándolo en el tope de plástico.
    • Los siguientes dos pasos te mostrarán cómo se usa el iSclack, una gran herramienta para abrir de manera segura el iPhone 5c y que recomendamos a cualquiera que quiera reparar más de una vez un iPhone 5, 5s o 5c. Si no vas a usar el iSclack, ve directamente al Paso 5.

    • Cierra el agarre del iSclack, abriendo las mandíbulas succionadoras.

    • Coloca la parte inferior de tu iPhone entre las ventosas, apoyándolo en el tope de plástico.

    • La ventosa superior debería estar colocado un poco por encima del botón de Inicio.

    • Abre las palancas para que las mandíbulas del iSclack se cierren. Centra las ventosas y presiónalas firmemente sobre la parte de arriba y de abajo del iPhone.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - Contestar

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - Contestar

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  4. Agarra tu iPhone con fuerza y cierra las palancas del iSclack para separar las ventosas, separando así la pantalla de la carcasa trasera. El iSclack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone lo suficiente para separar las piezas, pero no tanto como para dañar los cables internos.
    • Agarra tu iPhone con fuerza y cierra las palancas del iSclack para separar las ventosas, separando así la pantalla de la carcasa trasera.

    • El iSclack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone lo suficiente para separar las piezas, pero no tanto como para dañar los cables internos.

    • Separa las dos ventosas de tu iPhone.

    • Ignora los siguientes tres pasos y continúa hasta el Paso 8.

  5. Presiona una ventosa sobre la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de Inicio.
    • Presiona una ventosa sobre la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de Inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa se pone completamente sobre la pantalla, para que esté bien fija.

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - Contestar

  6. Asegúrate de que la ventosa está firmemente pegada al panel frontal. Mientras agarras tu iPhone con una mano, empuja hacia arriba la ventosa con la otra mano para separar ligeramente la pantalla frontal de la carcasa trasera.
    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa está firmemente pegada al panel frontal.

    • Mientras agarras tu iPhone con una mano, empuja hacia arriba la ventosa con la otra mano para separar ligeramente la pantalla frontal de la carcasa trasera.

    • Tómate tu tiempo y aplica una fuerza firme y constante. La pantalla está mucho más ajustada que en otros dispositivos.

    • Con una herramienta de apertura de plástico, empieza a abrir empujando y separando lentamente la carcasa trasera de la parte frontal, a la vez que sigues tirando de la ventosa.

    • Hay varias sujeciones que unen la pantalla frontal a la carcasa trasera, por lo que quizás necesites alternar entre hacer palanca sobre la parte trasera, tirar de la pantalla o ambas a la vez.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - Contestar

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - Contestar

    This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

    Renee - Contestar

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  8. Tira del trozo de plástico de la ventosa para liberar el vacío.
    • Tira del trozo de plástico de la ventosa para liberar el vacío.

    • Separa la ventosa de la pantalla.

  9. Levanta el extremo del botón de Inicio de la pantalla para tener acceso a los conectores que hay en la parte superior del teléfono. Abre la pantalla hasta que forme un ángulo de unos 90º, y apóyala sobre algo que la mantenga en posición mientras trabajas en el teléfono.
    • Levanta el extremo del botón de Inicio de la pantalla para tener acceso a los conectores que hay en la parte superior del teléfono.

    • Abre la pantalla hasta que forme un ángulo de unos 90º, y apóyala sobre algo que la mantenga en posición mientras trabajas en el teléfono.

    • Si no se te ocurre qué usar, haz lo siguiente: usa una lata de refresco sin abrir para mantener la pantalla.

    • Coloca una banda elástica de goma para que la pantalla quede fija a la lata mientras trabajas. Esto evitará que torsiones los cables de la pantalla.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - Contestar

    I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

    Travis Henrick - Contestar

  10. Separa los dos tornillos Phillips #000 de 1.6 mm que mantienen el soporte del conector metálico de la batería unido a la placa lógica.
    • Separa los dos tornillos Phillips #000 de 1.6 mm que mantienen el soporte del conector metálico de la batería unido a la placa lógica.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - Contestar

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - Contestar

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  11. Separa el soporte del conector metálico de la batería del iPhone.
    • Separa el soporte del conector metálico de la batería del iPhone.

  12. Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para cuidadosamente hacer palanca sobre el conector de la batería y desconectarlo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para cuidadosamente hacer palanca sobre el conector de la batería y desconectarlo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de solo hacer palanca en el conector de la batería y no en el enchufe en la placa lógica. Si haces palanca sobre el enchufe de la placa lógica o en dicha placa, podrías destruir el enchufe o dañar los componentes cercanos de la placa.

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - Contestar

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - Contestar

  13. Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips #000 que mantienen conectados el enchufe del cable de la pantalla a la placa base:
    • Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips #000 que mantienen conectados el enchufe del cable de la pantalla a la placa base:

    • Dos tornillos de 1.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.25 mm

    • Es muy importante vigilar los tornillos de este paso para poder armar el dispositivo de nuevo. Si usas por accidente el tornillo de 3.25 mm o de 1.7 mm en el agujero inferior derecho, dañarás significativamente la placa lógica, lo que hará que el teléfono ya no pueda encenderse adecuadamente.

    • Ten cuidado de no apretar demasiado los tornillos. Si no encajan bien al colocarlos de nuevo, entonces no estás usando el tornillo adecuado, así que no los fuerces.

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - Contestar

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - Contestar

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - Contestar

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - Contestar

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - Contestar

    Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.

    Christopher -

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - Contestar

    is it necessary to remove these screws in order to remove the battery?

    Ali Ahsan - Contestar

    Hi Ali,

    You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.

    Arthur Shi -

  14. Separa el soporte del cable del panel frontal de la placa lógica.
    • Separa el soporte del cable del panel frontal de la placa lógica.

  15. Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico o una uña para desconectar la cámara y el conector del cable del sensor. Asegúrate de que solo empujas el conector y no el enchufe de la placa lógica.
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico o una uña para desconectar la cámara y el conector del cable del sensor.

    • Asegúrate de que solo empujas el conector y no el enchufe de la placa lógica.

  16. Asegúrate de que la batería está desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso. Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico o tus uñas para desconectar el cable LCD. Los conectores LCD y del digitalizador están en el mismo cable, así que al levantar el conector LCD ambos conectores se separarán. Comprueba que ambos cables están totalmente desconectados antes de separar la pantalla por completo.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería está desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso.

    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico o tus uñas para desconectar el cable LCD.

    • Los conectores LCD y del digitalizador están en el mismo cable, así que al levantar el conector LCD ambos conectores se separarán. Comprueba que ambos cables están totalmente desconectados antes de separar la pantalla por completo.

    • Al montar tu teléfono de nuevo, el cable LCD podría desconectarse de su conector. Una pantalla en blanco o con líneas blancas sería un indicativo de una mala conexión debido a este problema. Si esto ocurre, reconecta el cable y haz un "power cycle". El "power cycle" simplemente consiste en desconectar y reconectar la batería.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - Contestar

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - Contestar

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - Contestar

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?

    ewistey - Contestar

  17. Separa la pantalla de la carcasa trasera.
    • Separa la pantalla de la carcasa trasera.

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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don't forget the 3 smaller of the 4 screws are different sizes on the silver panel!

djranoia - Contestar

Yeah, I learned that one the hard way when I dropped the 1.6 mm screw onto my carpet. But, thank God, I found the screw after several minutes of searching for it. The entire display replacement from a cracked screen went nice and smooth. It actually tool me less than 20-minutes to complete the process. Thanks iFixit!!!

ebibbs -

How do I know if I'm ordering a white or black front screen? Also what's the difference between the 35$ from amazon or the 95$ from here?

Nicholas - Contestar

The top and bottom on the back of the white iPhone 5 is made out of ceramic glass. The top and bottom on the back of the black iPhone 5 is made out of pigmented glass. Hope that helps! I use ReVampWholesales for parts, decently priced, just bought a black 5C full assembly (buttons and everything) for $44.50 with $8 shipping (pretty quick too). Amazon is very good too.

Andrew -

This guide misses a few things: after removing the old display, you will need to remove the silver backing/shield, the home button and the camera (be very careful when pulling the copper tape from the silver panel so not to tear it.) You will then need to place these in the new display. This is another 9? screws or so. I think the iPhone 5 page has this guide (it's pretty much the same thing.)

-

I always order the cheapest displays from Amazon (about $30 right now with free shipping for Prime members.) They always work just fine for me -- none of these parts is "officially from Apple" (they're all Chinese knockoffs.)

-

On a further note, be VERY careful when plugging the new screen to the mainboard - the FPC connector pins can BEND and BREAK if you force the connector. Broken pins require very careful hot air/reflow soldering of the mainboard and a new FPC connector: not recommended for novices!

Joshua - Contestar

It depends on where you buy the replacement part. The display assembly iFixit sells for the 5c comes pre-assembled with the home button, front camera, earpiece speaker, and the LCD shield plate already in place, which makes for an easier repair. You're absolutely correct in that if your main concern is getting the cheapest price on the part, you'll need to spend some additional time transferring those bits from the old display to the new one. And—ta-da!—we've got a guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

any help or guidance would be appreciated: bought the full replacement for the 5c screen, changed it and it still is not working. Last night it just showed the apple on the screen. this morning nothing.

angelareynolds56 - Contestar

Please be aware that like In the 5S, using the wrong screws in the plate that covers these connectors can damage tracks in the motherboard. If your phone no longer boots, look in the two bottom screw threads and see if you can see a visible ring where the screw has dug into the board, or any signs of copper.

If you happen to make this mistake, and are in Australia, we can repair this, as well as replace damaged FPC'S, ect. Contact me on benduffy@itzcomputers.com.au for more info on mail in repairs. If you are in other parts of the world, I can likely refer you to someone closer to your location who can help you.

Ben Duffy - Contestar

when I took my phone to be repaired, they said I had a part missing in my phone, I can't remember what it was, but I have a deadzone on the bottom right of the screen which is annoying because I cant dismiss some notifications.

rylando - Contestar

Just completed this. While it took a bit longer than expected, the 5C is now back in operating order. My complication came in that the new part had a very cantankerous front camera cable that just wouldn't align in the reverse order of disassembly. I had to get it connected first, then the LCD connector, then the digitizer. After that exercise, I got the white lines/bars and so had to undo it all again and try once more. 3rd time was a charm!

ronaldehayes - Contestar

FLAWLESS VICTORY!!!! Thanks guys/gals. The screen kit, everything went great. Too bad you don't sell color screens. My sister would have loved that.

mvgalloway5 - Contestar

Did the repair , got the white lines in the display. Opened phone up again , disconnected battery and re connected display. Powered up again and everything was good. Disconnecting battery should be in the guide for sure. Overall very pleased with the kit.

josephgebert - Contestar

Did anyone else have an extremely difficult time removing the screws from the LCD Shield Plate? I can't even get them to turn a small amount. So frustrating -- everything was a piece of cake up to this.

McLain McGrath - Contestar

I replaced a broken 5c screen with this display assambly. Opening was easy, but it took me half an hour to replace these 3 contacts. Than I had white stripes and lost the 1,7mm screw!! I took one similar from the old display. White stripes were away, when i put the display in the backcover. And hurray, all works fine!

veltea - Contestar

I replaced the battery but now the home button does not work. What did I do wrong or what do I need to do make it work? Plz help!!

Pat Magliolo - Contestar

I bought my screen from FixEZ.com. What a mistake that was. The first one had a bad proximity sensor. Bought a replacement. The second flat out didn't work and both fit like garbage. Despite them saying their screens are new, both had fingerprints and sticker residue on the back sides.

Finally came to iFixit like I should have from the start and the screen is perfect. Can't tell the difference between this screen and the original. iFixit from here on out, you guys rock!

Tech Savvy - Contestar

Thank you for the guide. It was very helpful.

Mike - Contestar

Please add a link to the bottom to front panel assembly: iPhone 5c LCD and Digitizer Replacement

grsshpprkm - Contestar

I followed the instructions and the screen is still black. I disconnected the battery as well and that was a no go. Anybody know what to do?

Ubaldo Rodriguez - Contestar

Didn't work. :( My old screen had died after I dropped the phone a few too many times (wouldn't display anything at all), so I bought a replacement from this site. Opened the phone, disconnected the battery, removed the old display assembly and plugged in the new one. Then plugged the battery back in and tried turning the phone on to see if the new display works and that it's not some problem with the phone itself - sure enough, got the "low battery" icon on the screen.

Unplugged the battery again and disconnected the new display as I still had to transfer the home button. After doing that, plugged the display back in, screwed the connector cover back on, plugged the battery in, and tested again - this time, nothing at all. Tried a few times to take it apart and put it back together, but to no avail. My only guess is that I could've damaged the cables when putting the connector cover back on. Not really willing to try buying a new display (and risk the same thing happening again) to test that theory, though.

Mikhail Mikhailov - Contestar

Replaced my teenager's iPhone screen. Of course he dropped it while reading and walking at the same time. D'oh!

I should have posted about 9 months ago when I did this. The directions are great, the part was a perfect replacement. Took about 30 minutes and the new screen was in and working fine. The connectors are very difficult to line up, so just take your time, don't force things. Do this when you haven't had a lot of coffee and you are relaxed. Organize your screws when you take them out on a white piece of paper oriented with the brackets in relationship to a phone drawn on the paper.

I give it 5 out of 5. Saved me some d'oh and dough!

iFixit Rocks!

scottcnevin - Contestar

omg thank u so much, this is going to be my only phone for 4 more years ;)

Marre Smith - Contestar

great guide! :)

Kamiel Cherlet - Contestar

Easy to follow instructions. Thank you.

Esmael Ostadi - Contestar

I fixed my son's iPhone 5C broken screen following the iFixit video and instructions – which are excellent! I needed to organise things carefully, follow the instructions in the video and take my time. I put it all back together and it worked first time :-)

Tip: the screws are tiny and easy to lose, so I suggest using a container with raised edges to contain them. I used strips of PostIt notes to labels the different parts.

Thank you iFixit – your instructions are by far the best that I found online!

Bill Jones - Contestar

I fixed my young sister’s iPhone 5c. The old screen was fully cracked and it was really difficult to even unlock the phone. The tiny screws were not problem because I used the magnetic project mat, it’s really helpful!!! The screen worked perfectly at first try, I only had to do a minor adjustment with the home button by loosening a little bit the screws, besides that everything went fine.

Thanks a lot ifixit.

Kevin Contreras - Contestar

My old display was broken, first it was a little curved on one side and few weeks later display got white stripes on it. I ordered a display assembly and installed it, which was really easy with these instructions and took me like 30 minutes. Display screen works fine, but touchscreen seems to be without function.

I tried to figure out what went wrong, opened it again and cleared all contact with alcohol. But there’s still no touch function.

Is there any help for this problem? Did I do something wrong? Is it possible the new display came with broken touchscreen?

Katrin Kohler - Contestar

First, make really, really sure you have connected and fully seated the digitizer cable—it’s often connected only incompletely during reassembly, leaving you without touch function. If that doesn’t solve it, try reinstalling your old display (if it still works well enough for a test) and see if touch function works on that. If it does, the new display may be damaged or defective. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Awesome!!! Very easy thank you

Amy L Martinez - Contestar

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