• There are many options for filament between type and color. You can mix and match to suit your style and needs.

    • Generally I recommend PETG as it has good all around properties. This is the same as the stock extruder. I used an all PLA version for about 9 months with little trouble however. Annealing is another option, but is challenging due to the shrink factor.

    • Certain parts have unique needs that will favor one type over the other. See part listings.

    • Some parts make look slightly different over time as new versions come out, but functionality and printing are correct as listed.

    • I use and test all parts in Slic3r PE. Print parts as oriented, do not rotate around X or Y. I recommend 0.15 layer, gyroid, and remaining default settings unless otherwise indicated below.

  1. PETG or PLA
    • PETG or PLA

    • PETG or PLA

    • PETG. If you choose Fin, it requires PETG for flex.

    • Tail - similar to Prusa style connection

    • Fin - more flexible, less resistant connection

    • missing photo

    • PETG

    • PETG

    • Note that this has one built-in ring support. We will remove it in a later

    • This part is separate and small so that you can print in a high temp resistant filament.

    • Has two small breakaway supports that should be removed.

    • R1 version successfully printed in PETG, HTPLA, ABS, and PC.

    • PETG or PLA

    • PETG

    • PETG or PLA

    • Std version: this is similar to the stock Prusa extruder, where the PTFE is cut flat and terminates before the gears

    • PTFE version: this has the PTFE pass through and needs to be cut tapered to fit between the gears. This is best suited for flexible filaments.

    • Optionally print at 0.1 layer with 0.25 nozzle for extra high precision.

    • PETG

    • PETG

    • It is best to print this part by itself and not plate it with other parts. This helps ensure you get clean teeth.

    • PLA works well here. PETG also.

    • missing photos

    • It is best to print this part by itself and not plate it with other parts. This helps ensure you get clean teeth.

    • Use 3 perimeters. Turn off 'detect thin walls'

    • PETG, maybe HTPLA

    • Needs some flex, so PC is poor choice

    • PETG

    • Note that this piece has two built-in supports. Do not remove the cylinder yet.

    • I recommend printing control knobs in a contrasting color.

    • Any filament should work fine

    • Tensioner knob

    • PINDA knob

    • PETG or PLA

    • Print a few spares, that one is easy to loose. Maybe use a brighter color

    • PETG or PLA

    • Standard for direct load

    • Bowden for either reverse Bowden or MMU connection. Requires M5 heat-set nut.

    • PETG or PLA

    • For use with indirect filament sensor

    • For indirect filament sensor and Bowden connection. Requires M5 heat-set nut

    • PETG or PLA

    • Serves as both bearing axle and spring, so some give is good.

    • PETG, 0.15 layer

    • Add supports, build-plate-only, 40 deg threshold

    • Use 4mm brim

    • OmegaV is for use with e3d Volcano heater block, but printed similarly.

    • You are ready to move to the next stage, Preparing Components

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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JLTX

Miembro Desde 02/01/19

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