Final assembly is really not that difficult. There are many steps because it is methodical. After you are done you will know it is not hard. Honestly the hardest part is removing the stock extruder.

  1. If you have not already done so, you need to first remove the stock extruder and X carriage, as you will be replacing those.
    • If you have not already done so, you need to first remove the stock extruder and X carriage, as you will be replacing those.

    • Save all parts!!

    • Leave all wiring in umbilical in place! It is not necessary to rework any of that unless so desired.

    • See Prusa documentation for help.

  2. Get Carriage, X-clamp, Key and Tail
    • Get Carriage, X-clamp, Key and Tail

    • Hardware: M3x25 + 3X M3x10

    • Optional: align bearings so that ball races are offset as shown.

    • Clip Carriage onto Bearings. It will hold itself in place

    • Tighten Zip Ties. Cut them relatively flush to avoid them being an obstacle for wiring later.

    • Use M3x10 to mount Key to Carriage

    • Note the orientation of the Key

    • Press X-clamp on Carriage, it should fit nicely over bottom Bearing

    • Use two M3x10 screws to tighten X-clamp to Carriage

    • Get Tail, Allen key and one M3x25

    • Insert M3x25 into Tail. Use Allen key to fix Tail to X-clamp

    • Alternatively, start M3x25 into X-clamp first, then slide tail down over head and finish tightening.

    • Get E-Cage B, E-Cage F, E-Cage S, V6 and Inlet

    • Hardware: 2X M3x10, 2x M3x25

    • Put E-Cage S over V6 and Inlet on top of V6. Insert PTFE in the Inlet.

    • Insert E-Cage B on Key

    • Press E-Cage B down to lock it in

    • Make sure Bearings and screw holes are aligned

    • Use two M3x10 to secure E-Cage B to Carriage

    • Insert V6 + Inlet into E-Cage B, watching that E-Cage S stays free and not catching

    • Make sure Inlet is inserted all the way

    • Important: E-Cage S is inserted into P-Rack. Missing this could cause damage to parts when tightening the E-Cage. Be careful and don't use much force!

    • Carefully Press E-Cage F onto E-Cage B, again watch E-Cage S slides underneath

    • Make sure all is aligned between the three parts

    • The right front corner of E-Cage S clips into E-Cage F

    • Missing those steps might cause damage to the parts when tightening the E-Cage

    • Before proceeding, check that V6 is aligned correctly. You wont be able to change this later. Remove E-Cage F and turn heatsink without much force to correct. Do not turn the heatblock, since it might loosen heatbreak and nozzle.

    • You can either align square with cage (as shown) or angled slightly to align with Omega nozzles which are offset. see Omage close-up

    • Use two M3x25 to screw E-Cage together. Turn both screws equally to avoid bending of any parts

    • Tip: first time tightening cage, nuts may not be fully set, or burrs on faces, can have trouble catching both screws. Press one side and screw it snug, then release. Do the same to the other side. Then tighten both screws equally.

    • Check that E-Cage has no gaps around Inlet or between halves after tightening

    • Before proceeding, check your progress again and make sure all is aligned. This avoids taking things apart again during the assembly.

    • Insert M3x18 from the back into E-Cage F as motor anchor screw

    • The bearings of E-Cage B and E-Cage F are aligned

    • V6 is aligned correctly

    • No gaps between E-Cage B and E-Cage F. Inlet is be secured without gaps.

    • Get Idler, two nylon washers and one M3x40mm screw.

    • Insert screw through Carriage and E-cage B until tip pokes through. Hang a nylon washer on the screw tip. Place Idler as presented and push screw through most of the way. Slide second washer between Idler and E-cage F and push screw through to nut.

    • Tighten screw finger tight only

    • Get Wheel, Spacer, Bondtech drive gear and Belt

    • Insert Shaft into E-Cage, through front bearing. Add Bondtech with teeth toward rear. Press shaft through rear bearing until Wheel touches E-Cage

    • Make sure to orientate the Wheel with the screw on the top

    • Bondtech scrub screw and Wheel screw need to be aligned, so Bondtech gear can be secured to the flat part of the shaft. Otherwise it might slip in use later

    • Make sure the Bondtech gears are aligned with the filament path. Use a piece of filament to check

    • Tip: use tensioner to prop up belt. This will make attaching the spider easier.

    • Add Spacer to the shaft. Make sure to let its flat side face the wheel, so the bulges on the Spacer point to the front

    • Get Motor, Tensioner, Spider, Pulley (or Pinion if you printed one) and Pinda

    • Hardware: M3x18 + M3x12 + 2X M3x10

    • Put Pulley (or printed Pinion) on the motor shaft as shown on the second picture. Do not worry so much about the position on the shaft, you can adjust that later if necessary

    • If your Pulley has two grub screws, make sure to tighten both. Otherwise one might come loose and cause the Pulley to get jammed with the Spider when in use later

    • You can use the stock MK3 extruder stepper motor if you do not have a slim stepper at hand. But one of the main benefits of Skelestruder is the loss of weight to achieve higher printing speeds. This is limited with the bigger motor. It still will be a great working Extruder though!

    • Screw on spider with M3x12 screw. Remove tenisoner for next step

    • First insert screw head with spring into slot in E-Cage. Make sure spring sits underneath the slot

    • Pull up Tensioner by hand and slip it into the slot prepared in the idler. If it is to hard to insert, do not use excessive force but loosen the tensioner knob a little

    • Alternatively, wait until the very end to install the tensioner

    • When pulling up the tensioner, it is tempting to press down the extruder assembly to work against the force pulling up. Try to not lean too much on the extruder to assure you are not bending any rods, etc.

    • Insert motor through hole in Spider and make sure the belt warps around the Pulley (or Pinion). Recommend wires exit upper left.

    • You can turn the motor connector in a different direction if you prefer a different route for the wire

    • Tighten M3x10 as shown in picture 1

    • Tighten M3x18 as shown in picture 2

    • Tighten M3x18 motor anchor screw with allen key as shown in picture 3

    • Unscrew all screws, half a turn after tightening and turn the motor a little bit away from the wheel to tighten the belt

    • Do not over-tighten the screws or the belt to avoid failure due to too much stress on the printed parts later. It does not need to be as tight as the other belts on X and Y

    • Insert the Pinda into P-Rack as shown in picture 1, getting it close to level with the nozzle.

    • Don't worry too much about the exact Pinda position. With the knob on you can easily adjust its height later when calibrating the printer

    • Use M3x8 to tighten the Pinda. Make sure it does not slip

    • Depending on the force needed, hold the P-Rack to support it when tightening the Pinda to avoid bending it

    • Get Nocuta, Blower, Fan Shroud and Omega

    • Hardware: 3X M3x12 + 4X M3x18

    • Use 2X M3x12 to screw Fan Shroud on the Noctua's right side. The wire outlet will be located top right when mounting the fan to the assembly. The logo of the fan needs to point to the inside of the E-Cage

    • Make sure the Fan Shroud's screw hole is aligned with the mount on E-Cage S

    • Make sure the bottom left screw will catch the mount on E-Cage S. The E-Cage S mount is behind the screw hole shown in the circle. Make sure it is pushed all the way up.

    • Use two M3x18 screws to mount the right side of the Nocuta

    • Use the already in the shroud inserted M3x12 screws to mount the left side

    • Make sure everything is aligned and that there are no major gaps between shroud and the E-Cage

    • Tiny gaps wont have influence on cooling and can be ignored

    • Use M3x12 to screw the Omega on the Spider

    • Make sure the Omega hooks into E-Cage S

    • Insert the Blower into Omega and use M3x18 to secure it with the Spider

    • Optional: If you use a silicone sock, you can use M3x8 or M3x6 to secure it to the heater block. This is a great way for preventing it slipping down during a print

    • Get the Cartridge + Cover assembly

    • Hardware: 2X M3x10

    • Insert the Cartridge + Cover assembly into the top of the extruder

    • Use the M3x10 screws to tighten down the Cartridge + Cover assembly

    • Plug in filament sensor wire

    • Insert the belt into the bottom pockets if you are using a stock MK3 X-axis. Make sure the belt is fully inserted and that the belt teeth are matching the profile of the pocktes

    • Skelestruder supports the Bear X-axis. If you have a MK3 bear upgrade or just use the Bear X-axis on your stock machine, use the top pockets for the right belt path between the X-ends

    • Optional: Insert a 10mm piece of belt in the channel not used on each side, to provide extra clamping.

    • This is one way to wire the electronics. You can adjust this to your needs/preference.

    • The Pinda wire runs over the left top of the X-Carriage

    • The motor wire runs over the top of the extruder. Make sure to leave some slack so you can open the idler freely

    • The fan wires run over the right top of the X-Carriage. You can secure them with a zip tie

    • The filament sensor wire just runs straight down the back

    • Use some braided sleeve or something similar around the wires. Use zip ties to secure the bundle to the X-Clamp and Tail. Make sure to align the zip tie heads on the left, so they do not become an obstacle during homing.

    • If the heater cartridge wires are too close to the bed, running underneath the X-Clamp, route them around the side as shown in picture 3

    • coming...

    • Prinda cable should go just over top belt. You can rotate the zip tie head down to help hold it in place. [need pic]

    • Congratulations you are done with the assembly! Only a few small tweaks in the firmware are left before you can use your new extruder!

    • On to the last stage, Skelestruder for Prusa MK3 Software


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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