Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para sustituir una cámara trasera defectuosa.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Inserta una uña o una herramienta plástica en la muesca ubicada a la izquierda de la cámara trasera.
-
Gentilmente presiona y gira la tapa posterior de la parte trasera del teléfono.
-
-
-
Introduce una uña o herramienta de apertura de plástico en el hueco en la esquina derecha inferior de la batería y levanta.
-
Remueve la batería del teléfono.
The battery will need to be charged after it is placed in the phone. No one told me that and I bought a battery and thought it was bad. Keep the phone off and insert the charger. You will need to charge it for several hours before you can use the phone.
-
-
-
Utilizando una de tus uñas, saca la tarjeta microSD directamente desde su ranura.
-
Remueve la tarjeta microSD desde el teléfono.
I found removing the SIM/SD card with my fingertip a little difficult – not enough friction. So I used a 'rubber' (in US English it's called a pencil eraser or just simply, an eraser.
Simple, cheap (zero) and effective! :)
Cheers.
John
-
-
-
Repite el procedimiento de arriba para remover la tarjeta SIM.
Actually this isn’t as easy as it appears in the photo and instructions, since the SIM card does not have a notch that you can use to pull it out. In my experience I’ve found that the best way to remove the SIM card is by pressing down somewhat hard on the SIM card, and then push-pulling it outward.
-
-
-
Utiliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el panel de conectores del marco medio del plástico.
-
Retira el panel de conectores con un par de pinzas.
In my experience I have always removed this Home button protector panel with ONLY a plastic opening tool, and I have never found adhesive beneath it.
-
-
-
Coloca un iOpener calentado en el lado izquierdo del teléfono por al menos 90 segundos.
-
Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en la mitad derecha del teléfono.
good location for a timer, I am taking my phone apart
¿se puede hacer con la pistola de calor?
Si, puedes utilizar la pistola de calor también, pero ten cuidado ;-)
Otra opción es usar una “placa calefactora” que, según yo, es la opción mas “profesional” ya que con ella se puede limitar la temperatura, para que no se malogre la pantalla táctil (la “digitizador” detŕas del vídrio).
Another option is to use a “hot plate” which, according to me, is the more “professional” option since with it you can limit the temperature, so that the touchscreen doesn’t get ruined (the “digitizer” behind the glass).
A hairdryer on low not being used statically is also an easy option. Or if your a caveman or low tech, and all you have is a single baby sock and metal bb’s or little rocks, as long as they’re not silica rocks, put them in the baby sock, at the edge of your cave campfire to warm them and thats all you need. -retired aviation engineer
-
-
-
Inserta el extremo de la púa de apertura debajo del lado inferior derecho del vidrio frontal.
I hope this helps others:
my screen was STRONGLY glued to the midframe, it was impossible to remove it without breaking it, be very careful with the copper adhesive in the midframe!!!
I can't even understand how this guide doesn't mention it properly!
Yeah, the real trick with these types of screens is to measure (or just “have a feel for”) an adequate temperature with the heat pad (e.g. iOpener), or heat gun, or hot plate. First you have to heat up the screen just enough so that you can “break into” one side without breaking the bezel or the glass, and then verrrry carefully and verrrrry gradually insert plastic opening picks (or even playing cards) as you make progress around the exterior border of the phone. Whenever I do this, I always insert 5-6 objects (again, plastic picks or playing cards) before I fully remove the digitizer-glass assembly, which typically ends up as follows as I move around the exterior border: one pick at each of the four corners and one pick on each of the two sides. WARNING: DO NOT INSERT ANY OBJECT BENEATH THE GLASS MORE THAN A FEW MILLIMETRES FROM THE EXTERIOR BORDER.
Wow seriously 100% ur going to break the LCD if this is the first time opening the phone this is why android is built disposable it now costs 60$ to fix a stupid 10$ part this fix is definitely not worth it
android=disposable
apple=a better way of life
I will never attempt to fix another android again
-
-
-
Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.
This is not as easy as they make it seem in this guide. The real trick with these types of touchscreens is to properly measure (or just “have a feel for”) an adequate temperature with the heat pad (e.g. iOpener), or heat gun, or hot plate, that you use to heat the adhesive beneath the glass exterior of the digitizer-glass assembly. First you have to heat up the screen just enough so that you can “break into” one side without breaking the bezel or the glass, and then verrrry carefully and verrrrry gradually insert plastic opening picks (or even playing cards) as you make progress around the exterior border of the phone. Whenever I do this, I always insert 5-6 objects (again, plastic picks or playing cards) before I fully remove the digitizer-glass assembly, which typically ends up as follows as I move around the exterior border: one pick at each of the four corners and one pick on each of the two sides. WARNING: DO NOT INSERT ANY OBJECT BENEATH THE GLASS MORE THAN A FEW MILLIMETRES FROM THE EXTERIOR BORDER.
-
-
-
Con cuidado, desliza la palanca hacia la esquina, deteniéndote frente a la rejilla del altavoz en la parte superior del teléfono.
Be sure not to nick and tear the capacitive touch chip interface that meets the LCD screen here! I caught it and didn't even feel the resistance. :-(
-
-
-
-
Desliza la púa de apertura por la parte superior del teléfono, teniendo mucho cuidado de no insertar demasiado la punta.
-
-
-
Desliza el extremo de la púa de apertura por el borde inferior de la pantalla para separar el último adhesivo restante.
-
-
-
Gira la púa de apertura para separar el cristal del teléfono.
Be aware that there is adhesive on the inner parts of the screen. Plan on replacing this screen and digitizer as well.
-
-
-
Introduce una púa de apertura debajo de los iconos del botón blando en la pantalla y haz palanca en los cables del botón dentro del panel frontal.
My digitizer was glued to the chasis, the glass came up separately and the digitizer broke when I tried to pry it up.
That’s actually probably because you might not have heated the sides of the screen (where the adhesive is located) enough before prying up on the exterior border of the glass part. It’s very difficult to know the tolerance limits of such devices if you’ve never seen them apart before, and as such one can easily get confused between where the glass ends and the digitizer begins. On my first smartphone repair I broke a digitizer, so I know how it feels.
-
-
-
Levanta ligeramente, pero no retires, el extremo del botón de inicio del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
The display assembly I purchased from ifixit.com included a new home button with a new flex cable. If you have the same, I'd recommend removing the home button in this step.
Same here. My home-button flex cable extended under the main board rear cover plate, and would have required removing screws to extract. So I left the original home button installed, and removed the one that came with the new assembly.
The ‘reverse order’ step are misleading. It is not trivial to reconnect the main screen flex cable to the main assembly — lots of trial and error to get it snugly plugged into the receiving connector. That part is glossed over. (Dissassembly is trivial. Reassembly is hard.)
After putting the screen and connectors on, I learned that there’s some plastic edging on the BACK. I had to remove the screen since it effectively wraps the home-button key. The new screen cracked. Great.
Sansumg S5 is the stupiest design (for repair) ever.
I have fixed s2,s3,s4, note, note 2 and note 3
All of them, you can get into the logic board from the back without touching the screen assembly.
With the S5, just a simple problem could cost you buying a new lcd assembly.
You must remove the lcd in order to remove the screws for the logic board cover.
I purchased a cracked lcd S5, so I can replace it and sell it. My mistake was I did not did a research on the tear down (thinking it should the same as previous S model.
To make story short, lucky for me, I did a dry test of the entire phone, before glueing on the new lcd assembly.
Because the front camera lens was damaged, cost $5.
If I glued the lcd, it would be 50/50 chance that I would crack the new screen.
So any repair that you need to do on the S5, you will have to consider the risk of breaking the LCD.
I hope Samsung change the design on the S6. Which I doubt it. Because the higher cost of repair means people won't fix them = more new sells
How can I find out if I messed my phone up . the person who glued the screen on didn't glue it on right , so I tried to take off the screen and I got it off but now that I try to put it back on the screen is black .
I know this reply is a bit late, over 2 years late, but I just wanted to add to idevice Recycle that the way "they" designed this phone is exactly as you described, to make it wayyyy more difficult to fix even the most simplest thing on this phone. Inverting the motherboard, designed exactly the opposite way of the S4 (as you described), from their standpoint of view, as you'd have to admit, was a brilliant idea on "they're" part.
I've torn apart and fixed many cell/smart phones in my days thus far, but mostly iphones by far. A friend passed
me one of these phones this past week. I've never messed with one before so you already know, even though I
have much knowledge about them, this site was the first I visited about this phone. Needless to say, go figure.
They did a really great job though making this phone one of the most difficult phones to do any type of repair
on. Adhesive sucks. But eh, all is well with a bit of time and patience. Had to replace rear camera and middle
bezel frame. Time to off it....
This guide may have been written for a different revision but the SM-G900F that I just repaired had glue sticking the entire of the rear of the screen to the chassis making it very difficult to remove. Had to use a spudger and push it down the inside of the phone separating the copper film from the chassis to free it up. Would be easy to damage the home button cable but I was ok.
I had the same thing happen just now. I was working on a G900A. A real PITA!
mcr4u2 -
Is there a need to put adhesive after removing the screen?? If so, do you have an adhesive recommended...
Should be. i recommend using 3m strip double sided adhesive
leiki42 -
I had the same issue as idevice recycle. The model S5 that I was working on had a huge amount of glue on the back of the lcd which I wasn't aware of - this caused me to crack the glass which then literally broke the lcd in half (costing me £120 for a new screen!!!)
I've repaired all manner of Samsung products over the years and I've never had any issues with any model apart from this one. My advice to anyone doing this repair is once you have managed to unstick the screen from the frame, before attempting to remove it, apply a bit of heat (but not too much, you don't want to damage anything) to the back of the phone where the battery normally sits. This is where all the glue on the back of the lcd is located which sticks the lcd to the frame of the phone - I wish I knew of this before trying to remove the screen!
So this really blows. I needed to swap the logic board from a phone with a cracked screen to one with a good screen. Yeah that’s not happening. I now have two cracked screens… Thanks Samsung! The difficulty on this should be way higher. As others have said, the screen is glued on the underside over a large portion where the copper foil is. It’s not coming up easily or in one piece.
If you want to make the reassembly easier, be careful to not separate the Home button assembly, from the glass. Instead, just carefully pry away the soft button adhesive connectors.
-
-
-
Utiliza la punta afilada de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del ensamblaje del panel frontal directamente desde su zócalo en la placa madre.
-
Retira con cuidado el ensamblaje del panel frontal del teléfono.
Absolutely wonderful! Worked like a charm. This is the easiest replacement I have seen so far on an Android. :)
This was all a breeze until I removed the screen and the LCD and digitizer crumpled on me now I have to replace the whole thing not just the charge port which was the initial issue… Great guide though and thanks it helped. Minus the panic attacked when all the parts started to crack and break as I removed the glass and now digitizer or LCD stayed safe for replacement.
The difficulty of changing the S5's display is enormous. Not only is it glued around the edges, it's also glued strongly to the midframe. If you ignore this, damage is inevitable. The digitizer flex cable is also very easy to kill. Glue sucks. When assembling the display, the edge bonding is not enough; you need special double-sided adhesive tape that is stuck to the midframe so that the display does not fall out again so quickly. Before doing this, you have to thoroughly remove the old adhesive on the edge. I have successfully performed this procedure once but would never do it again.
-
-
-
Retira los diez tornillos Phillips #000 de 3,4 mm del lado de la pantalla del marco medio.
It’s probably a good idea to remove (and subsequently screw back in) these screws in a sort of “star fashion” (e.g. alternating from top-to-bottom, left-to-right) in order to equally distribute the tension.
-
-
-
Pasa suavemente una herramienta de apertura de plastico por el lado interior izquierdo del marco interior para separar los tres clips blancos de plastico.
There are also two more white clips just along the edges of the battery connection terminals (to the right of the 3 shown in the pictures). Using a spudger to pry these loose too will make separating them later much easier.
Yes, I second that! You definitely need to loosen those two other clips or you may have problems separating this interior frame from the midframe.
-
-
-
Tira suavemente de los lados largos del bisel plateado alejándolo del teléfono para separar las dos mitades de la estructura central.
maybe my phone was stuck a little, but i had to work it pretty hard to get this step. Just take your time.
Personally I wouldn’t recommend separating the midframe-motherboard assembly like this. What I recommend is the following: 1. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the main speaker grille and the main camera assembly (technically, between the gray and black plastic pieces. 2. Pry up on the black plastic piece (using the gray plastic piece as a fulcrum) in such a way that allows you to lift that end of the interior midframe-motherboard assembly from the inner midframe (see step 27). THEN 3. Once you have created enough space, insert a triangular pick tool, and THEN use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel (see step 26). WARNING: BE VERRRRY CAREFUL WHERE YOU INSERT TOOLS or apply pressure because there are many sensitive components along that top part (where the cameras and infrared sensors are located).
-
-
-
Continúa hacia el lado derecho del bisel plateado, tirando de la sección interior del mral para separar las dos mitades.
Personally I wouldn’t recommend separating the midframe-motherboard assembly like this. What I recommend is the following: 1. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the main speaker grille and the main camera assembly (technically, between the gray and black plastic pieces. 2. Pry up on the black plastic piece (using the gray plastic piece as a fulcrum) in such a way that allows you to lift that end of the interior midframe-motherboard assembly from the inner midframe (see step 27). THEN 3. Once you have created enough space, insert a triangular pick tool, and THEN use a plastic opening tool to pry any remaining corners out of the silver bezel (see step 26). WARNING: BE VERRRRY CAREFUL WHERE YOU INSERT TOOLS or apply pressure because there are many sensitive components along that top part (where the cameras and infrared sensors are located).
-
-
-
Retira con cuidado el ensamblaje del marco medio interior/placa madre del marco medio interior blanca.
Did two of these phones, and a small white hard plastic cap fell out. Can anyone tell me where this goes on reassembly? See pic: http://library-static.snapfish.com/libra...
The white plastic cap which fell out is actually the piece that covers a small hole marked R2 near the original philips head screw you remove when first disconnecting the small display connector. The good news is that this cap can be put back on after fully reassembling the phone.
-
-
-
Retira el único tornillo Phillips nº 00 de 3,0 mm que sujeta la placa madre a la estructura central.
-
-
-
Tira de la placa madre, pero no la retires, para separarla de la estructura central y poder acceder a los conectores de la parte posterior.
-
Coloca la placa madre sobre una superficie plana y limpia y apoya la estructura central interior con una mano, dejando la otra liberada para trabajar en el ensamblaje de la placa madre.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la cámara trasera de su zócalo en la placa madre.
-
Retira la cámara trasera de la placa madre con unas pinzas.
Does any one know what the connection type is that connects the camera to the mother board? I'm not sure what to search to find it.
-
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
38 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Mariana Roca nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
11 comentarios
has any one replaced the camera and now you get the warning camera filled and the led light fails each time you click the app?
did you ever figure out how to fix that, i have the same problem
Outstanding guide!! My rear facing camera got smashed in a bike accident (key in the same pocket as phone - dumb...) and the impact didn't totally disable it, but it lost the ability to properly focus at any but really close distances. This guide made the replacement process completely straightforward and if not "easy" at least a whole lot less daunting. Especially helpful were all the warnings and advice about dealing with the little itty bitty cables at the touch and home buttons at the bottom of the screen.
One item that I might add to this guide - I found it helpful to use multiple opening picks to keep the already cut adhesive around the edges of the display from re-sticking itself as I continued to slowly heat and cut and heat and cut. It's very tenacious adhesive and it really likes to cling back to itself, cool and re-solidify before you get done cutting it all.
Most importantly, after doing this repair, my phone is back to 100% with a perfectly working camera and all functions normal. YAY!!!
... and, here's the actual repair - https://youtu.be/Q2oj6zpJmTQ compressed to just under two minutes
I got a phone from someone and the camera was broken, so I replaced it. After that it still doesn't worked, so I wiped the cache, made a factory reset, etc, still nothing. Does this happened to someone else here? What else can affect the proper function of the camera?
very nice help, how can I help translating to portuguese?
Glad to hear you want to contribute to the iFixit guides! We're working on public translations and will let you know when Portuguese translations are possible. Cheers!
Great guide. I replaced the damaged outer plastic chrome bezel, front and rear camera following the instructions carefully and all went perfectly well. Phone is like new now.
You really need to let people know about the amount of adhesive on the back of these screens. They are NOT easy to take off (it’s almost as if they have superglue on the back of them) and they can crack with the slightest of pressure. Clearly going from this guide, the adhesive from the back of the screen had already been removed, making this look like an easy process when it actually isn’t :(
