Introducción
The upper case assembly includes the keyboard. Use this guide to replace the entire case/keyboard assembly as a single unit.
To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable. These accessories are not included with your MacBook, so make sure you have them ready before you begin.
Herramientas
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Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:
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Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.
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If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.
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If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?
Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.
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Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.
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Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…
I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.
All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.
I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”
Reconocimiento y desconexión de conectores de cable
useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.
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Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat.
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Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
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Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.
You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.
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As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
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Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
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1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw
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3.5 mm T5 Torx screw
On the 2016 model the tri-point Y00 is actually a Phillips screw, so need of that special tool.
The 2015 model has the Phillips—PH000
-jay
Confirmation as well, 2015 model does not have a tri-tip, but actually a Phillips head.
I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.
Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.
Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.
After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.
What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.
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Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
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Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.
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Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
A step was skipped. You have to flip up the metal locking tab on the socket before the cable can be removed. See the photo.
And be careful when re-inserting the connector. One end of the two indentations got a little bent (I did not notice) which resulted in a black screen when powering up. I used a heat gun (low setting) to separate the cable from the labtop housing. When re-assembling, first insert the connector (after closing the metal flap as instructed), verify that it’s properly seated, then re-attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing. In the first try, I first re-attached the cable to the housing, then tried to insert the cable connected into the metal socket. Because of a lack of slack, the cable connector at one end got bent slightly. After identifying the problem, I had to straighten it/unbend out using my fingers. Hence it is easier to insert the connector first, then attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing.
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Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.
Does unplugging the "dual microphone assembly ribbon cable" affect anything other than the microphones? The headphone jack is separate, for example, right?
Right. We haven't tested it, but unplugging that cable shouldn't affect anything other than the microphones. You can see the microphone assembly in this guide.
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Use tweezers to pull the microphone assembly ribbon cable free of its connector.
I broke the microphone assembly ribbon cable, from step twenty five. Is there anyway to fix this, soldering kit, or can I order a new cable online?
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Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.
If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30
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Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.
very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10
The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic
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Remove the dual microphone assembly.
During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?
Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.
So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.
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Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.
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Unfold the USB-C port ribbon cable until it lays flat, allowing access to the bracket beneath.
On the 2016 model the USB-C is actually one whole part and can be removed once the display is removed, unfortuanatelly.
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Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.
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Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.
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Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.
There is a small metal part that falls off once the display cable screws are removed and you try to separate the display from the top cover. Just make sure you put it back correctly.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T3 Torx screw securing the USB-C port to the upper case.
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Slide the USB-C port out of its recess in the upper case, and remove the USB-C port.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.
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The upper case remains.
Great guide!!! Thank you!!! It is not very difficult to replace the keyboard / top cover. However, for some reason the computer didn’t immediately started, I had to reset and connect to power supply and then it started and works fine.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.
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4 comentarios
please where do i have to put the mushrooms screws? 923-01012
If you look closely at this image in Step 36 you can see them pretty clearly.
I changed the keyboard itself; you follow the instructions to step 35 (skipping 29 to 30, microphone removal) and then remove the keyboard ribbon cable connector to the trackpad (step 45). Maybe the most complicated step is ungluing the black backing stuck to the back of the keyboard and then there are almost a hundred tiny screws holding the keyboard to the frame, mostly only an eye strain. Got the keyboard through ebay (spanish keyboard layout).
I replaced my keyboard and it won’t turn on.
If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.
You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.
Stuart - Contestar