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Introducción

Usa esta guía para remplazar el altavoz izquierdo quemado.

  1. Extrae los siguientes diez tornillos:
    • Extrae los siguientes diez tornillos:

    • Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 14.4 mm

    • Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm

    • Cuatro tornillos de resalto Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm

    • Al reemplazar los tornillos pequeños, alinéalos en perpendicular a la suave curvatura de la carcasa (no van perfectamente en vertical hacia abajo).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Contestar

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Contestar

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Contestar

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Contestar

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Contestar

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Contestar

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

  2. Usa tus dedos a modo de palanca para levantar la tapa inferior del cuerpo del MacBook por la zona del ventilador. Extrae la tapa inferior.
    • Usa tus dedos a modo de palanca para levantar la tapa inferior del cuerpo del MacBook por la zona del ventilador.

    • Extrae la tapa inferior.

  3. Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca para extraer su toma de corriente de la placa madre. Se recomienda hacer palanca en los laterales del conector para extraerlo de su toma de corriente. Ten cuidado con las esquinas de los conectores ya que pueden romperse con facilidad.
    • Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca para extraer su toma de corriente de la placa madre.

    • Se recomienda hacer palanca en los laterales del conector para extraerlo de su toma de corriente. Ten cuidado con las esquinas de los conectores ya que pueden romperse con facilidad.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Contestar

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Contestar

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Contestar

  4. Dobla el cabre de la batería ligeramente para alejarlo de su conexión en la placa madre para evitar que se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabajas.
    • Dobla el cabre de la batería ligeramente para alejarlo de su conexión en la placa madre para evitar que se conecte accidentalmente mientras trabajas.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Contestar

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Contestar

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Contestar

  5. Utilice el borde de un spudger para hacer palanca suavemente hacia arriba y hacia afuera del conector del ventilador en la placa lógica. Es útil girar el spudger axialmente desde debajo de los cables del ventilador para liberar el conector. El zócalo del ventilador y el conector del ventilador se pueden ver en la segunda y tercera imágenes.
    • Utilice el borde de un spudger para hacer palanca suavemente hacia arriba y hacia afuera del conector del ventilador en la placa lógica.

    • Es útil girar el spudger axialmente desde debajo de los cables del ventilador para liberar el conector.

    • El zócalo del ventilador y el conector del ventilador se pueden ver en la segunda y tercera imágenes.

    • Tenga cuidado de no romper la toma de plástico del ventilador de la placa lógica mientras utiliza su spudger para levantar el conector del ventilador hacia arriba y fuera de su zócalo. El diseño de la placa lógica que se muestra en la segunda imagen puede parecer ligeramente diferente de su máquina, pero la toma del ventilador es la misma.

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - Contestar

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - Contestar

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - Contestar

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - Contestar

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - Contestar

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - Contestar

    Thanks, I did that too,,

    a lot easier

    Ahmed Mahran -

    Yes, tricky. Insert the spudger just like in the photo. You won’t be able to dig it out out from any other side. Also, notice which side of the connector faces down into the socket: it is the side without the four shiny gold areas (again, just like in the photo).

    rmccord23 - Contestar

  6. Retire los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la placa lógica: U
    • Retire los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la placa lógica: U

    • n tornillo Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 5,3 mm

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - Contestar

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    I wasn’t able to open mine up. The heads looked like little triangles instead of hex torqx things. Is there a chart with the head shape of all the bits you can buy? I want to just get the one.

    Christopher Roode - Contestar

    They might be tri point

    Daniele Carminati -

    they were T6 for me

    lamajr - Contestar

  7. Levante el ventilador de su hueco en la placa lógica, teniendo cuidado con el cable que podría quedar atrapado.
    • Levante el ventilador de su hueco en la placa lógica, teniendo cuidado con el cable que podría quedar atrapado.

  8. Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho por debajo del dedo de retención moldeado en la caja superior. Jala el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho hacia arriba para sacar el conector de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho por debajo del dedo de retención moldeado en la caja superior.

    • Jala el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho hacia arriba para sacar el conector de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Contestar

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 - Contestar

  9. Desconecta el cable de la cámara de la placa lógica.
    • Desconecta el cable de la cámara de la placa lógica.

    • Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica. Jalar el cable hacia arriba puede dañar la placa lógica o el cable mismo.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Contestar

    thank you great suggestion

    Soham Thacker -

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Contestar

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Contestar

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Contestar

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Contestar

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - Contestar

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - Contestar

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison - Contestar

    Die Metallverbindung besteht aus zwei Teilen. Der kabelferne Teil drückt den Stecker nach unten. Der kabelferne Teil ist ein festgelöteter Schuh. Mit Hilfe einer dünnen Präpariernadel konnte ich den kabelzugewandten, beweglichen Metall-Teil der Verbindung zum einen horizontal herausschieben, zum anderen habe ich gleichzeitig gezogen. Nicht zu viel Kraft beim Ziehen aufwenden.

    Mir hat geholfen, ein Makrofoto vom Stecker zu machen, um ihn zu verstehen.

    hpw - Contestar

  10. Desconectar los cuatro siguientes cables: Cable del AirPort/Bluetooth
    • Desconectar los cuatro siguientes cables:

    • Cable del AirPort/Bluetooth

    • Cable de la Unidad Optica

    • Cable del Disco Duro

    • Cable del Trackpad

    • Para desconectar los cables, utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para extraer sus conectores de los zócalos de la placa lógica.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Contestar

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Contestar

    It is advised to tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Contestar

  11. Usa la uña para voltear la solapa de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado. Asegúrate de que estés empujando hacia arriba en la solapa de retención con bisagra, no la toma en sí. Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable plano del teclado su zócalo.
    • Usa la uña para voltear la solapa de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    • Asegúrate de que estés empujando hacia arriba en la solapa de retención con bisagra, no la toma en sí.

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable plano del teclado su zócalo.

    • El cable puede ser difícil de insertar. Si tienes problemas, pega temporalmente una pieza de cinta al cable para ayudarte guiar el cable dentro del zócalo.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Contestar

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Contestar

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    Thank you so much. Very clever idea that works like a charm!

    Todd Walls -

    Thank you so much! After 15 minutes of frustration, it inserted in less than 5 seconds.

    Todd Walls -

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Contestar

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Contestar

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - Contestar

    Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!

    Rafael Giuliano - Contestar

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Contestar

    Der Sicherungsbügel kann leicht mit dem Fingernagel vom Mainboard um 90 Grad zu mir her geklappt werden. ACHTUNG: Genau lesen, filigrane Teile gehen leicht kaputt.

    hpw - Contestar

  12. Si se encuentra presente, retira la tira pequeña de la cinta negra que cubre el zócalo del cable de retroiluminación del teclado.
    • Si se encuentra presente, retira la tira pequeña de la cinta negra que cubre el zócalo del cable de retroiluminación del teclado.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Contestar

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - Contestar

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - Contestar

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Contestar

  13. Usa la punta de un spudger o de tu uña para voltear la solapa de retención en el zócalo del cable plano de contraluz del teclado ZIF. Asegúrate de que estás empujando hacia arriba en la solapa de retención con bisagras, no la toma en sí. Extrae el cable de la cinta de contraluz del teclado de su receptáculo.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o de tu uña para voltear la solapa de retención en el zócalo del cable plano de contraluz del teclado ZIF.

    • Asegúrate de que estás empujando hacia arriba en la solapa de retención con bisagras, no la toma en sí.

    • Extrae el cable de la cinta de contraluz del teclado de su receptáculo.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Contestar

    It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Contestar

  14. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para apalancar el conector del sensor de sueño/batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para apalancar el conector del sensor de sueño/batería hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Contestar

    I forgot to place this tiny flex cable on top of the mainboard, and tried to recover it from under (lazy!) so I broke it.

    In general I would tape all those connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

    dbovey - Contestar

    Update: the computer works even without this feature. Of course the led battery indicator does not work, but it is not a big loss.

    dbovey - Contestar

  15. Sujeta la lengüeta de plástico que esta sujeta al bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de DC del equipo. Tira del cable de dato de la pantalla para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica. No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.
    • Sujeta la lengüeta de plástico que esta sujeta al bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírala hacia el lado de entrada de DC del equipo.

    • Tira del cable de dato de la pantalla para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Contestar

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Contestar

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Contestar

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Contestar

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Contestar

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Contestar

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - Contestar

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is not working after I put everything back together, can hear the macbook chime. Tried shining light onto the display, see nothing. Tried loosening the screw slightly like someone suggested here, that does not help either. Tried cleaning the contacts of the LVDS cable, nothing. Any help appreciated.

    Don Seenu - Contestar

  16. Retira los siguientes tornillos:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos:

    • Cinco tornillos T6 Torx de 3.6 mm.

    • Dos tornillos T6 Torx 4.3 mm.

    • Dos tornillos T6 Torx de 7.2 mm.

    • En algunos modelos, los tornillos pueden ser ligeramente cortos de la siguiente manera:

    • Cinco tornillos T6 de 3.0 mm

    • Dos tornillos T6 de 3.6 mm

    • Dos tornillos T6 de 6.7 mm

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Contestar

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Contestar

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Contestar

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - Contestar

    Well on my mid 2012 MacBook Pro the screw heads are definitely not T6 but rather J000. Will place the removed screws on a paper drawing of logic board. Good tip ….

    dontrep7a3 - Contestar

  17. Retira los dos siguientes tornillos: Un tornillo Phillips de 8.6 mm
    • Retira los dos siguientes tornillos:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 8.6 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 5.5 mm

    • Retira el retenedor del cable de datos de la pantalla de la caja superior.

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - Contestar

  18. Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar suavemente el micrófono del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa superior.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para quitar suavemente el micrófono del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa superior.

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Contestar

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Contestar

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - Contestar

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - Contestar

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - Contestar

  19. Acopla los muchos conectores cerca de sus bordes, levanta la placa lógica del extremo más cercano a la unidad óptica.
    • Acopla los muchos conectores cerca de sus bordes, levanta la placa lógica del extremo más cercano a la unidad óptica.

    • Sin doblar la placa, maniobra para sacarla de la caja superior, teniendo en cuenta la conexión flexible a la placa de entrada de DC que puede quedar atrapada en la caja superior.

    • Retire la placa lógica.

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Contestar

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Contestar

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Contestar

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Contestar

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Contestar

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Contestar

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Contestar

    I removed the battery …. helps getting the logic board out.

    dontrep7a3 - Contestar

  20. Desvía el cable del micrófono de su ranura moldeada en el ensamble del altavoz izquierdo.
    • Desvía el cable del micrófono de su ranura moldeada en el ensamble del altavoz izquierdo.

  21. Remueve la pieza de cinta negra que cubre el conector del altavoz izquierdo.
    • Remueve la pieza de cinta negra que cubre el conector del altavoz izquierdo.

  22. Usa el lado plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del altavoz izquierdo directamente arriba del zocalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el lado plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del altavoz izquierdo directamente arriba del zocalo en la placa lógica.

    • Haz palanca por debajo del cable.

    I found it easier to reverse steps 22 and 23. You got more wiggle room to get the spudger underneath the left speaker connector. Just be careful when you remove the left speaker since the left speaker wire is still attached to it’s connected and the adhesive that you got to work loose on the belly of the speaker.

    dontrep7a3 - Contestar

  23. Levanta cuidadosamente el altavoz izquierdo de la espuma adhesiva que lo sujeta a la placa lógica.
    • Levanta cuidadosamente el altavoz izquierdo de la espuma adhesiva que lo sujeta a la placa lógica.

    • Remueve el altavoz izquierdo.

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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4 comentarios

General - the reason you are reading this guide may well be that you blew you speakers after installing 'Boom' from the App Store.

All I can say is, don't install it a second time!

Others, be warned! If you use Boom, just use it at the lowest volume you can. Looks like they don't replace speakers.

Or better, don't install it at all.

Stuart.

Stuart - Contestar

You're right, Boom only enjoyable when using headphone, but it also kill internal speaker especially the mini internal subwoofer

Athaariq Ardiansyah Ramadhani -

You are right, but in my case it was VLC, I pushed the volume up to 200% and same result happened as you said of Boom, a speaker is blown.. LoL. So, same thing goes here, don't use VLC higher volume than 100%.

Faisal Saleh -

ottima guida

con un pò di pazienza si ottiene un ottimo risultato

grazie

davide artisan - Contestar

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