Introducción
En esta guía aprenderás a realizar el cambio de cristal de cámara original de Iphone 7 plus.
Qué necesitas
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Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.
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Abrir la pantalla del iPhone pondrá en peligro sus sellos a prueba de agua. Ten especial cuidado de no exponer tu iPhone a daños por líquidos después de completar su reparación.
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Usa un secador de pelo o prepare un iOpener y aplíquelo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante aproximadamente un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.
How long should I use a hairdryer for?
I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.
gczarny -
Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering
Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,
I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.
How can I get all this tools
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Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.
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Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.
Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?
Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??
The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.
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Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera.
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Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el espacio.
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Mientras tira de la ventosa, gira el spudger para ensanchar la abertura entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.
Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).
I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?
Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .
My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.
My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.
iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.
This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.
Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.
Be aware that there is a small connector, under the home button.
I found that the edge of the spudger was too thick, so I sanded it down to almost a knife edge. This made it much easier to insert into the gap.
Use the Opener and a razor blade to cut through the adhesive. It takes about 45 seconds to heat up the Opener in a 1000 watt microwave. Be careful not to damage the thin display ribbon cables on the right side iphone. After you use the razor blade to cut the adhesive on the two sides and bottom you should be able to use the spudger to remove the display screen.
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Inserta el extremo plano del spudger entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera en el borde inferior izquierdo del iPhone.
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Desliza el spudger por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor silencioso, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.
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Desliza una selección de apertura debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.
I couldn't find the pick in the tool set, so made my own. Then I found the original in the battery box. %#*@.
Same thing for me
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Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.
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Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.
So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?
Probably the screen
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Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos Y000 de tres puntos que sujetan el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:
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Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.6 mm
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.
i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.
there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?
what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off
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Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior.
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para desconectar los dos conectores de pantalla inferior levantándolos de sus enchufes en la placa lógica.
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
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Retira los tres tornillos triples Y000 que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal:
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Un tornillo de 1.3 mm
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Dos tornillos de 1.0 mm
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Retira el soporte.
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob
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Desconecta el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.
That's save my life!thanks god!
neg -
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Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!
is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.
Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.
Hannes -
I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.
I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.
In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/
If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.
This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.
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Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cámara trasera:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 1.6 mm
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Un tornillo separador de 2.2 mm
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Es un poco dificil quitar este soporte. El borde/ cara inferior de este soporte parece soldado con el anillo de la lente de la cámara; así que necesitas mucho esfuerzo y no te sorprendas de romper el soporte.
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Me gusta tomar un destornillador plano y empujarlo para que no dañe ningún componente y simplemente tirar hasta que escuche pequeños rasgones.
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Ahí es donde ha ocurrido la soldadura, también puede verlo en la imagen tres.
I pulled the tabs with a small pair of pliers. Did the job neatly with less risk of damaging surrounding components.
If you order just the glass replacement for this repair it is much easier. Instead of pulling out and destroying the housing from the inside as shown in this guide, you can complete this repair by carefully breaking out the glass bits from the front. Make sure you have removed your camera housings as shown in the previous steps to avoid damage to the cameras. Use a small hammer and a flat-head screwdriver to shatter the glass. Pick out remaining bits with jewelers pliers or metal tweezers. Once all of the glass bits are removed, clean the adhesive residue with acetone (nail polish remover). Apply the new replacement glass by removing the backer that covers the adhesive. Press firmly for 30 seconds.
This method preserves the metal bracket and plate which are not typically sold as replacement parts with this type of repair. This guide should be updated with this technique in my opinion.
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El siguiente paso es empujar el lente de la cámara de adentro hacia afuera.
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Primero, encuentra la herramienta que prefieras y que sea fácil de usar con esfuerzo. Luego, coloca las manos donde aterrizará tu potencia para que la caja trasera no se doble. A continuación, empuja la lente de la cámara con esfuerzo. Por favor tea mucho cuidado con el teléfono y tu mano.
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Cuando pongas el nuevo protector de cámara, necesitaras pegamento o adhesivo para sujetar el lente de la cámara así como también el nuevo soporte inferior.
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Si no tienes un soporte no te preocupes no es necesario.
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Si estás preocupado que vas a dañar tu iPhone 7 Plus, llévalo a una centro Apple.
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Lo que hago aquí es que coloco el teléfono firmemente en la mesa con la cámara fuera, coloco mi destornillador plano donde está el marcador rojo y golpeo ligeramente el destornillador con un martillo.
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Para armar nuevamente el equipo sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para armar nuevamente el equipo sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
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12 comentarios
When will you pretend finish this guide with picture? I have the same problem but I don’t want to loss the waterproof. Do you know another form to fix or soleve this problem?
You will lose waterproof unfortunally. Seals may be replaced but will not be 100%
Adding pictures today.
I read that the bottom bracket you mention at the end is fallen alignment bracket and it aligns the camera lens. Do you know how to add it back? Or we’ll install a new one
You will have to get this part: iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Alignment Bracket
as the other one is soldered and will break and bend. You will have to align the bracket yourself to replace it.
B-7000 Clear is what I use.
I write in Russian. Вчера я сделал это самостоятельно для iPhone 7 plus. Предварительно купил для камеры Metal Holder (bottom bracket) и Shockproof Sponge. Рамку стекла я вытолкнул карандашом после некоторых усилий, это выполнимо. Сначала я пытался нагреть, но это не облегчает задачу. В конце концов я применил механическое давление. Я разбил стекло камеры, приложил карандаш к твердой поверхности, просунул второй конец карандаша в отверстие камеры, обхватил корпус iPhone удобно пальцами и сильно, но аккуратно стал давить. Спустя 2 минуты давления рамка камеры поддалась и вытолкнулась. Я использовал черный автомобильный герметик чтобы вклеить новую рамку (мой iPhone черного цвета), проблем не возникло. Metal Holder тоже намазал герметиком. Я думаю, что так же можно использовать пяти минутный эпоксидный клей. При сборке корпуса я так же промазал герметик по периметру, я подумал, что это будет лучше, чем черный скотч 3М. Бросать в воду я не стану, но думаю водонепроницаемость моего iPhone в порядке.
this video helped me https://youtu.be/Xm6u2FQ5YVc
Albert -
Il ricambio è compatibile anche perno iPhone 8 plus?
Nice guide, very helpful! Some suggestions:
•It would be nice to include instructions and photos on replacing the alignment bracket and foam pad.
•My new camera lens cover from iFixit arrived with dust on the inside and was difficult to clean until I figured out to use a lint-free cloth wrapped around the spudger pick, and applied light pressure to clean the inside of the camera lens cover. This is important, because had I not done this, the camera could have had a haze from the dust on the inside of the lens cover upon reassembly.
•Storing the camera module facing down, while working on the alignment bracket and lens cover, will keep dust from settling on the camera module lens.
Although I successfully completed the repair, I could have used more detailed instructions (with photos) of the replacement process. Once the cracked dual rear camera lens cover was removed, I was left to sort out the rest myself. Could have used some instruction on how to PROPERLY install the new items. Following suggestions on the site, I had purchased the new Dual Rear Camera Lens Cover along with a new Rear Camera Alignment Bracket and Rear Camera Foam Pads. It would have been helpful to know how to reassemble the new items. Kind of a large gap in guidance here!
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - Contestar
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
iHelpU.Tech - Contestar
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - Contestar
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - Contestar
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - Contestar
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone
bester - Contestar
I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.
Charles Meitin - Contestar
Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.
My favourites are:
Use a hot water bottle.
Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.
Test the lightning assembly at step 13
There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.
etc...
Neil Eriksen - Contestar
A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.
Herb
Herb Adler - Contestar
The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.
Gareth Flandro - Contestar