Esta traducción podría no reflejar los cambios más recientes añadidos a la guía de referencia. Ayúdanos a actualizar la traducción o revisa la guía original.
Introducción
En remplaçant le boîtier supérieur, vous disposerez également d'un nouveau pavé tactile et d'un nouveau clavier.
Remarque : le câble-ruban est fragile, mais peut être remplacé ; il est raccordé à une prise ZIF sous le pavé tactile.
Qué necesitas
-
-
À l'aide d'une pièce de monnaie, faites tourner la vis de verrouillage de la batterie de 90 degrés dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre.
-
-
-
Retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur en la soulevant.
I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.
I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....
Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.
-
-
-
Dévissez les trois vis Phillips espacées régulièrement sur la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie.
Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”
The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!
What size screwdriver
Edward: Philips 000
-
-
-
Faites pivoter le capot de la mémoire en forme de L de manière à dégager l'ouverture du compartiment de la batterie, soulevez-le et sortez-le de l'ordinateur.
-
-
-
-
Retirez les 3 vis suivantes :
-
Une vis Phillips n°00 11 mm au milieu du boîtier (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).
-
Deux vis Phillips n°00 14,5 mm (tête : diamètre 5 mm x épaisseur 0,75 mm).
Cita de ryan64:
I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.
I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.
You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.
for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience
-
-
-
Retirez les 3 vis suivantes de la paroi arrière du compartiment de la batterie :
-
Une vis Phillips n°0 3 mm (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).
-
Deux vis Phillips n°0 4 mm de chaque côté (tête : diamètre 2,75 mm).
On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.
The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.
On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.
I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)
Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.
Thomas -
My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.
Ernie K -
You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.
I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!
If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.
oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever
To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.
Cita de BeatJunkie:
To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.
Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)
For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.
In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..
Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.
me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.
Yeah, same for me, #00 worked; #0 suggested in the guide was too big. I didn’t even try #000. For 2.2GHz A1181. My screw config matched the guide, 3mm in middle, 4mm on the sides.
-
-
-
Retirez les deux vis Phillips de chaque côté de la paroi droite du compartiment de la batterie (pas celles qui sont les plus proches du connecteur de la batterie).
-
Deux vis Phillips n°000 6,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).
The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.
Screwdriver PH0
For black 2.2GHz A1181, I used PH #000 as suggested by guide. My screws are both 6mm.
-
-
-
Retirez les quatre vis Phillips indiquées de la paroi avant du compartiment de la batterie : En partant de la gauche, retirez les 2e, 4e, 7e et 9e vis.
-
Quatre vis Phillips n°000 3,25 mm (tête : diamètre 4 mm x épaisseur 4 mm).
It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.
The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.
Yeah, I found PH #00 better too. (For black 2.2Ghz A1181.)
I used PH0 for this
Is there a way I can cut the bracket off? I completely stripped one of the screws?
I’ve done this often enough that I marked the screws to remove with red marker.
-
-
-
Retirez les 4 vis suivantes à l'arrière de l'ordinateur :
-
Les vis les plus longues vont à l'intérieur de l'ordinateur, les plus courtes à l'extérieur.
-
Deux vis Phillips n°00 11 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,2 mm x longueur 2 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).
-
Deux vis Phillips n°00 7,25 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2 mm x longueur 3,75 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).
I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?
Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.
Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.
Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!
-
-
-
Retirez les deux vis Phillips du côté de l'ordinateur correspondant au lecteur optique.
-
Deux vis Phillips n°00 5,2 mm, avec tige (diamètre 2,3 mm x longueur 3,5 mm) (tête : diamètre 3,2 mm x épaisseur 0,5 mm).
The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?
With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!
-
-
-
En commençant près de l'écran et en vous rapprochant de l'avant de l'ordinateur, soulevez le boîtier supérieur en faisant levier. Vous pouvez vous aider d'un médiator moyennement rigide pour cette opération.
As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.
The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.
Thanks for the tip. Saved me!
Joe -
Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.
Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.
When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.
I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?
If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.
Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.
I think it is a mistake to separate the keyboard from the clips at the right side (above the optical drive) at all! Instead, after freeing the other three sides, just slide the keyboard slightly to the left, and leave the clips attached to the keyboard. For reassembly, just put the keyboard in its approximate place and slide it to the right to get those clips into position. Be sure the keyboard is really snug against the machine’s case. Then press the other three edges of the keyboard down.
jeh -
On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.
this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!
-
-
-
Tout en tenant le boîtier supérieur d'une main, tirez sur la languette noire du câble argenté pour débrancher son connecteur.
-
Une fois le boîtier supérieur démonté, vous aurez peut-être envie de saisir l'opportunité de le débarrasser de cheveux, de poussière, etc. Le mieux, c'est d'utiliser un petit soufflet, même si vous pouvez prendre une brosse. Si c'est la cas, veillez à utiliser des poils naturels non électrostatiques pour ne pas nuire aux composants électroniques.
I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?
After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!
Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...
Cita de carlos:
not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?
Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.
Cita de E Chambliss:
Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.
no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents
Cita de carlos:
no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents
Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?
Cita de Francisco:
Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?
my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts
Cita de spi:
When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!
How do you do it? I can't get it out
Superb guide thank you guys
This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.
Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.
After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(
Sorry my bad english!
Getting the upper-case/keyboard off was a bit nerve-wracking. Just work away at it carefully, bit by bit.
A small torch (flashlight for our American friends) was handy to see what was happening underneath the upper-case. Otherwise too dark.
I used a photographic lens-cleaning blower (with the rubber squeeze bulb, just the blower, no brush) to get away the dust. Probably not as effective as canned air, but it worked well enough. I’d recommend avoiding touching anything with the tip of the blower. Keep it a few mm away.
After removing the keyboard I noticed that the side clips were not attached to the body but rather to the keyboard still. Easily removed but something to note.
-
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
408 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
41%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
13 comentarios
Note that the actual keyboard is sandwiched between the top case and an aluminum backing panel that is plastic welded together. Because of this, the keyboard can not be replaced without modification to these plastic weld points.
I actually purchased a replacement keyboard only to find out that I should have purchased the whole top case unit.
Many thanks for this guide. I was able to replace my old fried keyboard with no problem!
Wow. I have used this guide religiously 3 times now and I can not thank enough for it to the provider. You won't find anything more informative, explicit, graphic, descriptive but simple and basic oriented out there, and without leaving key details out. I think you did a FANTASTIC job with this guide, and thank you again. I'm very happy I found this link.
By the way, much better and appropiate than those dozens of youtube videos.
On step 10 the last screw, the one farthest away from the optical drive, would not come out. My screw driver is fine and the screw look ok but it will not come out. I'v been trying for 30 minutes now.
hello staff ifixit
I have a question happens when I change the upper case of this team and still does not work bring it to a central apple and tell me I have to change the logic board is this true and if so how is that is damaged
My first time using an iFixit guide. Brilliant! So clear and accurate. Appreciate the comments of other users too. Alerted me to problems that might (and in fact did) arise. Really helpful. Thanks guys! I'll be back!
Hi,
I bought this macbook model used a couple days back: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...
I have opened it up a couple times since and must've messed something up. The responsiveness of the keyboard declined with time (over a couple days) and now the entire keyboard is non-responsive and the trackpad is very glitchy at best.
Would this purchase and fix solve my issues? Is there a possible other culprit?
Thanks
Thank you so much for creating this guide. Not only did it revive my black MacBook Core 2 Duo (2007), but it allowed me to continue my work with Photoshop as well as Illustrator and Indesign without shelling out $1500+ a year.
Could i use a backlit keyboard replacement instead of the original?
I keep finding mixed answers,but really i haven’t opened the computer to find out on my own.
Just wondering before i start. (I do realize that is lazy on my part,just wanted to know if someone has done it)
Thanks.
-Javier
This guide was a life saver. I had an issue with my machine randomly shutting down. I took it into the repair centre who diagnosed a logic board failure and it “wasn’t worth repairing”. That is not an answer to me. I sourced a refurbished logic board and installed it. But my problem didn’t go away. I then realised I had over enthusiastically cleaned my keyboard and shorted the power button, which kept causing the machine to shut down. I learnt this after ‘jump-starting’ my Mac without the cover and it ran for days without issues. After reconnecting the cover, my problems started again. A new cover from iFixit sorted everything out.
Well, this was a huge 85% help for what I needed to do, whit this guide I was able to access the logic board, but I had to troubleshoot on how I could dislodge the heat sink, why iFixit haves a lot of guides on this MacBook, but it haven’t a guide which explains how to replace the thermal paste on one of those models?
@Lorenzo, via YouTube with these headwords, you ‘ll find a few video’s that guide you with replacing the thermal paste. Success and let us know how it worked: macbook core 2 duo thermal paste
I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.
ServiceDocs - Contestar
This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...
Thanks again!
skraggle - Contestar
Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!
Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!
mikeutter - Contestar
Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.
Mike Woodruff - Contestar
My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?
Calvin - Contestar
Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?
skraggle - Contestar
Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.
josefsalyer - Contestar
Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?
Peter Wood - Contestar
i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.
howard bederman -
Outstanding guide - thank you!
owen bullock - Contestar
My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?
Beth Tomasek - Contestar
Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!
Loy Lum - Contestar
Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.
Patrick Langvardt - Contestar
Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…
[deleted] - Contestar
Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.
harwood - Contestar
Hehe, still my mac os running! After, already bit more than 10 years of use!
I put new heat paste now for the second time. Maybe this helped for staying young so long.
Thanx for all the repair guides!!!
Fabien - Contestar