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El motor táptico produce la vibración de tu iPhone y las funciones de retroalimentación háptica. Usa esta guía para remover y/o reemplazar el motor táptico en un iPhone 8.

Nota: Esta guía te enseña cómo separar por completo y remover la pantalla. Esto hace que sea más fácil de trabajar en el teléfono y previene daños accidentales a los cables de la pantalla. Si te sientes cómodo removiendo el motor táptico mientras los cables de la pantalla siguen sujetos, puedes saltar los pasos para desconectar la pantalla.

  1. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Remueve los tornillos pentalobe: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone dañará sus sellos impermeables. Si no reemplazas los sellos, tu teléfono ya no será resistente al agua.

    • Retira los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3,5 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • La apertura de la pantalla del iPhone comprometerá sus sellos de impermeabilidad. Ten listos los sellos de repuesto antes de seguir adelante con este paso, o ten cuidado de evitar la exposición a líquidos si vuelve a ensamblar su iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Contestar

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - Contestar

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

  2. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Calentar la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.

    • Usa un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del teléfono durante aproximadamente 90 segundos para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Contestar


    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Contestar

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Contestar

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Contestar

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Separa la pantalla: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Separa la pantalla: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se superponga con el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el cristal frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta adhesiva transparente puede permitir que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Contestar

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Contestar

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta un púa de apertura en el espacio.

    • El adhesivo hermético que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte; crear esta brecha inicial requiere una gran cantidad de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil abrir un espacio, aplica más calor y balancea suavemente la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo para debilitar el adhesivo hasta que cree suficiente espacio para insertar la herramienta.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Contestar

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Contestar

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Contestar

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Contestar

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Contestar

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Contestar

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Contestar

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Contestar

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Contestar

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura hacia arriba por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • Detente cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.

    • No intentes sacar el borde superior de la pantalla de la caja posterior, ya que se sujeta con clips de plástico que se pueden romper.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 6, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 6, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 6, imagen 3 de 3
    • Vuelve a insertar tu herramienta en la esquina inferior derecha del iPhone, y deslízala alrededor de la esquina y hacia arriba del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo.

    • No insertes la púa muy lejos, o puedes dañar los cables de la pantalla a lo largo de este lado del iPhone. Insértalo solo unos pocos milímetros, o aproximadamente el ancho del bisel de la pantalla.

  7. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 7, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 7, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta suavemente la ventosa para levantar el borde inferior de la pantalla.

    • No levantes la pantalla más de 15º o corres el riesgo de forzar o romper los cables planos que conectan la pantalla.

    • Tira de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para quitarlo del panel frontal.

  8. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda y a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 9, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 9, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza el ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia abajo (lejos del borde superior del teléfono) para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja trasera.

  10. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 10, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 10, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 10, imagen 3 de 3
    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que varios cables planos frágiles aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    • Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerlo apuntalado mientras está trabajando con el teléfono.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Contestar

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Contestar

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Contestar

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Contestar

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    • Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica, de los siguientes largos:

    • Dos tornillos 1,3 mm

    • Dos tornillos 2,8 mm

    • Durante esta guía, controle sus tornillos para que cada uno vuelva de donde salió cuando vuelva a ensamblar. Instalar un tornillo en el lugar equivocado puede causar daño permanente.

    • Remueve el soporte.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Contestar

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Contestar

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Contestar

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Contestar

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Contestar

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - Contestar

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers - Contestar

  11. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su cuenca en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable de conector de batería ligeramente fuera de la placa lógica para prevenir que haga contacto accidentalmente con la cuenca y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Contestar

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Contestar

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Desconecta la pantalla y digitalizador: paso 13, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Desconecta la pantalla y digitalizador: paso 13, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza el punto de un spudger para levantar el conector inferior de pantalla del su cuenca.

    • Para volver a sujetar conectores a presión como este, presiona sobre un lado hasta que haga clic, luego repite en el otro lado. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente desalineado, el conector puede doblarse y causar daño permanente.

  13. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 14, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 14, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para desconectar el segundo cable inferior de pantalla.

  14. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujetan el soporte sobre el conector de ensamblaje del sensor del panel frontal.

    • Remueve el soporte.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Contestar

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Contestar

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Contestar

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Contestar

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 16, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 16, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de ensamblaje del sensor de panel frontal.

  16. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Contestar

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - Contestar

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard - Contestar

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas - Contestar

  17. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8, Remueve la antena de diversidad inalámbrica: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan el soporte al lado del motor táptico:

    • Un tornillo Y000 de 1.3 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 2.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 2.9 mm

    My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

    Daryl Maunder - Contestar

    I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

    William Mitchell - Contestar

    Hey William!

    We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

    Arthur Shi -

    since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

    Bob McCall - Contestar

    My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

    Gary Berman - Contestar

    Hi Gary,

    The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

    Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.

    Rick Collins - Contestar

    Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…

    Maximilian Ament - Contestar

    Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    I can’t get the 2.7mm screw to tighten down the bracket.. not sure what i did wrong? the 2.9 will tighten in either place but the 2.7mm wont tighten anywhere.

    cb brooks - Contestar

  18. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 19, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve el soporte.

  19. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 20, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 20, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 20, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura cuidadosamente entre el cable flexible de antena y la parte superior del altavoz.

    • Esta porción del cable flexible está ligeramente adherido en su lugar. Si es necesario, aplica un poco de calor de l iOpener o secador de pelo para ablandar el adhesivo. Esto hará que sea más fácil separar el cable flexible de forma segura.

  20. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 21, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 21, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable flexible de la antena de la placa lógica.

  21. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo del cable flexible de antena para mantener el zócalo hacía abajo.

    • Usa la punta de tu spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable flexible de la antena de su zócalo, utilizando la púa de apertura para mantener el zócalo hacia abajo.

    • Volver a conectar este cable puede ser una tarea difícil. Hazla más fácil utilizando tus pinzas para mantener el cable flexible así el conector se alinea con su zócalo. Luego, presiona con cuidado en el conector con la parte plana de tu spudger hasta que encaje en su lugar.

    Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

    Daryl Maunder - Contestar

    Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

    jgrsf - Contestar

    I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

    Laura Bernal -

    Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

    dave -

    I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

    Alexandre Deloffre - Contestar

    I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.

    dl7utx -

    I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

    Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

    Bill Shannon - Contestar

    i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you

    cb brooks - Contestar

  22. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve la antena de diversidad inalámbrica.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el motor táptico:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 2.1mm

    • Un tornillo separador de 2.1 mm

    • Los tornillos separadores son mejor removidos usando un destornillador de tornillos separadores o punta.

    • Si no hay otro remedio, un pequeño destornillador de cabeza plana hará el trabajo—pero ten precaución extra para asegurarte de que no se resbale y dañe los componentes que lo rodean.

    Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

    Charlie - Contestar

    Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

    It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

    Daryl Maunder - Contestar

    When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

    Daniel Timothy Case - Contestar

    Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

    Owen Edwards - Contestar

    I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

    jackjaggermanjanson - Contestar

    I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.

    johnoconna - Contestar

    Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…

    Martijn Smits - Contestar

  23. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 25, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 25, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar el conector del cable de la antena y alejarlo del conector debajo de él.

    Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

    Nic Giannandrea - Contestar

    Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

    Stefano Restuccia -


    Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?


    Eduardo Moral - Contestar

    I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

    John Weise - Contestar

    I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

    John Weise -

    I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

    I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

    Jake Hearle - Contestar

    Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

    dave -

  24. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 26, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 26, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar y desconectar el cable flexible del motor táptico.

    I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

    Daryl Maunder - Contestar

    My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

    Chris Rainone - Contestar

    Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

    Nick Cox - Contestar

    I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

    Arthur Shi -

    On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

    Bill Shannon - Contestar

    on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

    There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

    You can’t take the engine off yet!!

    Jason Minahan - Contestar

    I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?

    James -

    A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.

    jeffreyknicholson - Contestar

    my phone is doing a squeeking sound everytime i press the home button and sometimes if i press long on the screen.

    something is off with the taptic engine i think.

    any idea how to fix it?

    Rita H - Contestar

    Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks

    cb brooks - Contestar

    Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.

    Mark Dige - Contestar

  25. Reemplazo del motor táptico del iPhone 8: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve el motor táptico

    Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.

    dl7utx - Contestar

    I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.

    Anne Marie Hammock - Contestar

    Hi Anne,

    The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.

    Arthur Shi -


Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso. No olvides volver a aplicar adhesivo de pantalla antes de volverla a instalar

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

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Arthur Shi

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2 comentarios

Is the iPhone 8 Taptic Engine interchangeable with the iPhone 8+ Taptic Engine. So that you can put the one from the Plus model into the regular one.

Peter Horvat - Contestar

I would like to add that you’ll need a special tool to read and copy the serial number to the new Taptic Engine so that it will provide proper feedback.

Jesse Hooton - Contestar

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