Introducción
Usa esta guía para reemplazar el ensamblaje de la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro sin barra táctil (13 pulgadas, 2016, dos puertos Thunderbolt 3).
Antes de iniciar este procedimiento, es posible que desees comprobar con Apple si cumples los requisitos para una reparación gratuita. Si la retroiluminación de tu pantalla ha dejado de funcionar, o si la pantalla muestra áreas brillantes verticales a lo largo de toda la parte inferior de la pantalla (también conocidas como "luces de escenario"), tu MacBook Pro puede ser elegible para el programa de servicio de retroiluminación de pantallas de Apple.
Para tu seguridad, descarga la batería de tu MacBook Pro con una carga inferior al 25% antes de iniciar las reparaciones.
Qué necesitas
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Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.
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Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Usa el destornillador P5 Pentalobe para remover los seis tornillos que sujetan la caja inferior:
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Dos tornillos de 6.2 mm
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Dos tornillos de 5.3 mm
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Dos tornillos de 3.4 mm
Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.
I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.
Finished the repair last week. Some key comments that helped me:
- Step 12, Robert
- Step 13, MikeG1
- Step 13, Rick Jaffe (take a photo when disassembling)
Also added some own comments on Steps 15, 18, 22
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Coloca una ventosa en la caja inferior cerca del área frontal central de la MacBook Pro.
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Levanta la ventosa para crear una ligera separación entre la caja inferior y el chasis.
To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.
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Inserta tu púa de apertura una vez más debajo del borde frontal de la caja inferior, cerca de uno de los dos orificios de tornillos más centrales.
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Tuerce firmemente la púa para liberar el tercer clip que sujeta la caja inferior al chasis.
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Repita el procedimiento cerca del otro de los dos orificios de tornillo más centrales liberando el cuarto clip.
My 3rd and 4th clips released simultaneously with clip 1 and 2.
Therefore I was looking to do something which had already been accomplished.
yeah be sure not to bend those clips by the display bottom. You pull towards yourself to get it off
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Tira de la caja inferior firmemente hacia la parte frontal del MacBook (hacia el lado contrario del área de la bisagra) para separar el último de los clips que sujetan la caja inferior.
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Esto podría requerir bastante fuerza controlada.
Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.
This helped me. It needed more force than what I expected. Basically grab the corner with 6.2mm screw with one hand and the cover of that same corner with the other. Then pull the cover and push the laptop. Careful, it pops off with force!
I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.
This step really through me through a loop. My last two MBP were a 2011 and 2013 and on those the bottom just lifted off when you removed the screws. The clips and this sliding lock design added in the 2017 model was frustrating the first time. I was following a youtube video first and he did not explain the sliding part at all. I should have come here first, this guide explains it pretty well. The second time I opened my 2017, I kept an “opening pick” between the bottom panel and the body on each side, and used my two smallest screwdrivers as levers in both “front” corner screw holes. Used the same method without the picks to put it back together at the end. Wayyy easier that trying to grip the panel or laptop body. Just make sure the screwdrivers/pins that you’re using as levers are small enough to be loose in the screw holes and have room to move
I used a pick underneath one of the back corners and nudge it (push down and towards the front - to get it off the hinge). This will make it easier to do the same for the other corner. The lower case will move off the middle plastic L-clips (which you will see after you inspect it.) Cheers! =)
I have found that your iFixit blue pry tool is excellent at giving me leverage to slide the bottom case forward to release it from the internal clips.
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Remueve la caja inferior.
I used the green prying tool in the air gap at the rear to nudge the bottom forward.
That is far easier and more reliable.
David. I agree. I've found the blue iFixit prying tool most helpful. I place it with the curve of the tool around the hinge and move the bottom case towards the front to release it from the slide-in clips. I consider myself to have pretty good grip strength but I have had some bottom cases that just wouldn't budge until I used this method. Scott The Mac Doctor
Like Dave and "themacdoctor" said, this job is MUCH easier if you use a spudger or similar tool to gently push the cover away from the air gap, at the rear of the laptop. Once you do this, you've loosened clips that are on the inside of the bottom case. This is much easier than tugging on the case itself.
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Con cuidado despega la parte grande de la cinta que cubre el conector de batería en el borde de la placa lógica más cerca de la batería.
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Remueve la cinta.
once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.
The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.
The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.
Mark one of the tape’s edges and, upon removal, stick it down with the same orientation. The first time I was inside the MacBook Pro (to upgrade the SSD) I failed to do this, and spent almost 30 minutes trying to get it back like it had been. Making a photo also helps.
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Con cuidado despega la parte pequeña de la cinta que cubre el conector del cable de datos de la placa de la batería.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para voltear hacia arriba la pequeña lengüeta negra de bloqueo que asegura el cable en su conector.
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Desconecta el cable de datos de la placa de la batería deslizándolo de su zócalo.
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Desliza en forma paralela a la placa lógica en la dirección del cable.
The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.
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Dobla el cable de datos de la tarjeta de la batería hacia atrás y quítalo del camino.
The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.
I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!
Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.
In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.
AMEN!! This was the hardest part of the ENTIRE process! Hard to know when the small end of the cable was “fully” inserted. Cable is SOOOOO delicate!
my old battery was working but could not hold a charge very long so I replaced the battery and now my mac does not recognize the new battery. Thought it was a bad battery at first but I purchased a new batter and still the same problem, My mac will work off power outlet but does not register it has a battery at all now. I tried putting my old battery back on but i damaged the very small clip when i slid out the flex cable so its gone now. Could this cable be at fault? I don/t know what else it could be, i only messed with the battery.
I have this same problem! Did you figure out what the issue was? Do I need a new flex cable?
I am having the same issue as Leo. After install. Is there a way to identify the fault?
Although the rest of fixit manual on this is excellent, this step is woefully lacking and the fact that the replace “kit” doesn’t have the Battery Board Data cable included makes the replacement kit significantly lacking (especially compared to other kits and instructions I’ve used before from them)
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Usa un destornillador T5 Torx para remover el tornillo de 3.7 mm que sujeta el conector de alimentación de la batería.
When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.
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Usa un spudger para levantar con cuidado el conector de alimentación de la batería, desconectando la batería.
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Levanta el conector lo suficientemente alto para que permanezca separado de la toma de corriente. Si accidentalmente hace contacto durante el curso de la reparación, podría dañar tu MacBook Pro.
On disassembly note the position of the connector before you lift. It has two gold-plated connections on the underside. On reassembly these need to make contact with the matching battery board connectors. Bending the connector out of the way deformed it a bit, and on reassembly I could see that the connectors didn't align well with the board's connectors. I needed to adjust the battery board position to the left a bit by loosening the 3.1 mm screws in step 23. Possibly this could be the reason why some people report that new battery is not detected.
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos de 1.9 mm T3 Torx que sujetan las tapas de plástico en la parte superior de las bisagras de la pantalla.
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Remueve las dos tapas de plástico de la bisagra.
Be careful tightening these screw. Overtightening will shear the heads off of them.
When reinstalling the plastic hinge covers, be sure to slide the bottom portion UNDER the rim of the unibody. If not when you go to reattach the bottom, it will not fully mate to the body.
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Remueve los dos tornillos T3 Torx de 2.9 mm que sujetan la tapa de aluminio sobre la parte superior del cable de pantalla principal.
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Remueve la tapa.
For me, the left one (on image) are T3 and the right are T4! haha… I’ll put a pic here to show you guys LOL
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Remueve los dos tornillos T3 Torx de 1.7 mm que sujetan la tapa de aluminio en la parte superior del conector flexible del cable de pantalla.
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Remueve la tapa.
I had a hard time getting a T4 bit to go into the one on the left, T3 worked perfectly. The one on the right the T4 bit fit just fine.
Impossible for me to take out these screws.
Can confirm, these are T4 for me, my T3 driver is just spinning inside
T3 for me...
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Saca el cable flexible de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo para desconectarlo de la placa de pantalla.
It actually clicks on and off—I did not pay attention when installing the new monitor and when I went to start the computer the screen did not have power but the bottom half came on (the hard drive fan went brrrr) this connector was down—but I had not “clicked” it on. It can be installed such that it will stay on without the metal strip that goes across it. The metal strip seems to be just to ensure it *stays* on. You got this!
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos T3 Torx de 1.5 mm que sujetan las dos tapa de aluminio sobre los dos conectores de cable de pantalla.
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Usa un par de pinzas para remover las dos tapas de aluminio.
These are mirror images of each other! Beware! In the photo you’ll see that in reassembly the “extra” metal bit goes toward the front. If you look at the underside of them you’ll see two foam bits: one square one to go over the flat metal part, the rectangle over the cable. With the extra metal bit toward the front (away from you) be sure you have the correct cover on the correct side!
This step may be unnecessary if you’re replacing the display. Check on your new display if these are already installed. If they are, skip this step. So far as I can tell, the only reason you do this step is on the off chance your new display does not have these two covers, they don’t really do anything to help remove or install the new display.
Agreed with arichard2401. My replacement display came with both covers. Good idea to always be sure to inspect your replacement before beginning.
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Remueve los dos tornillos T5 Torx en ambos lados que sujetan el ensamblaje de cable de antena.
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También remueve los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 4.1 mm (una de cada lado).
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Remueve los doce tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 1.1 mm (seis de cada lado) que sujetan el resto de ensamblaje del cable de la antena.
Un reassembly, DONT OVERLOOK the placement of the “Board Flex Cable” from step 19. Make sure you don’t leave it imprisoned under this assembly. It needs to be lying over all this assembly.
When reinstalling the antenna cable assembly, on the front side of it facing towards the trackpad, there is a flat silver piece of metal. It needs to go into a little track in the MacBook. If it doesn’t, things will seem normal until you go to close the lid, and you will get a click.
The screw drives of the P2 screws are extremely weak. Be careful when removing these screws and putting them back in.
Those 12 tiny screws are a frickin’ nightmare. They appear to be P1’s, not P2’s , as all I have are a P0.8 and a P1.2, and the 0.8 just strips the heads. I did manage to get one out, but that’s it so far. I’m think I’m going to have to use my Dremel to make a slot for a tiny flat bit to get them out… Grrrr…
i had a horrible time trying to get the 12 p2 screws out and i was ready to give up. i finally got them out when i applied really hard downward pressure onto my screwdriver. i really dug the end of my screwdriver into my palm. put some weight into it.
Oh man, be so so so so sure you aren’t stripping these tiny little screws. I got all of them out just fine with a P2, but one of them would just not come out and I ended up stripping it. Had to drill it out. Good news is that it will drill out really really easily with a 1/6 bit, just go really slow.
anyone else have little dabs of cement along the 12 lcd cable screws? seems like apple tried to prevent me from doing this when they made it lol. 1/6 “ DRILLING IT IS lol
Maybe I could just drill out the stuck ones and only replace the ones that aren’t super messed up? Is that a stupid idea?
Hi Grant! Yes, that's a valid option.
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Desconecta cuidadosamente los dos cables coaxiales de la antena, sacándolos directamente de la placa lógica.
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Desliza tus pinzas o el extremo plano de tu spudger debajo de cada cable hasta que esté cerca del zócalo, y luego suavemente gíralo o haz una palanca para desconectarlo.
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Usa una púa de apertura para extraer el ensamblaje del cable de la antena en las áreas que se muestran.
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Retira con cuidado el ensamblaje de la antena, mientras que simultáneamente alimentas el haz de cables de la antena por debajo del tubo de calor.
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Remueve el ensamblaje de cable de antena.
What is the function of this antenna cable assembly?
The antenna assembly contains the antenna lines for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. Without the assembly, you'll have terrible Wi-Fi and Bluetooth reception.
During reassembly after I put on the antenna piece the hinge would make a loud snap after being closed from a greater than 90 degree angle. After some trial and error I found a metal piece in the center of the antenna assembly that had to be bent back to fit in a grove in the aluminum of the computer. Hope that helps if someone is having a similar issue.
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Retira los cuatro tornillos T3 Torx de 3,9 mm que aseguran los muelles de la cubierta en los dos cables de la pantalla.
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Agarra el lado izquierdo del cable de la pantalla y tira de él hacia el extremo inferior del MacBook y lejos del muelle de la tapa.
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Usa un par de pinzas para sacar el muelle de la tapa del cable de la pantalla de su hueco.
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Repita este paso con el muelle de la tapa derecha.
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Mientras sostienes el MacBook pro con tu mano libre, quita los tres tornillos T8 Torx de la bisagra inferior de la pantalla.
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Quita los tres tornillos Torx T8 restantes de la bisagra superior de la pantalla.
I don't know if it's been edited, but I'm not seeing that. What I do see is they used 2 different colors for each of the sets of 3, and all six screws are the same.
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Empuja ambas mitades del MacBook Pro juntas para que los soportes de las bisagras se puedan levantar y queden libres de sus huecos en el chasis.
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Empuja el armazón principal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti mientras tiras de la pantalla hacia para separarla.
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Retira el ensamblaje de pantalla teniendo cuidado de no engancharlo en ningún cable.
During reassembly remember that the screen goes AWAY from you (as in the picture during removal). My cable was taped to the front of the display and had to be untaped and draped backwards over the bottom edge to get into proper position for attachment. Also, just in case this happens to you, too, the longitudinal rod that carries the springs and hinges was about 0.5mm too long to fit into the recesses. I had to file the rod down very slightly to get it to fit.
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Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original: es posible que tengas que transferir los componentes restantes o retirar los adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.
***Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un R2 o e-Stewards.
¿La reparación no ha ido según lo previsto? Prueba con algunas soluciónes de problemas básico o busca ayuda en nuestra Comunidad de respuestas.
Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original: es posible que tengas que transferir los componentes restantes o retirar los adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.
***Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un R2 o e-Stewards.
¿La reparación no ha ido según lo previsto? Prueba con algunas soluciónes de problemas básico o busca ayuda en nuestra Comunidad de respuestas.
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3 comentarios
this helped so much, thank you!
This guide helped me so much and also saved some $$$ on repair from Apple store. Thank you so much!
This is so awesome steps and procedure, are helpful for every technician.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Contestar
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Contestar
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Contestar
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Contestar
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Contestar
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Contestar
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Contestar
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Contestar
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Contestar
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Contestar
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Contestar
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Contestar
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Contestar
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Contestar
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Contestar
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Contestar
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Contestar
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Contestar
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Contestar
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Contestar
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Contestar
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Contestar
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Contestar
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Contestar
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Contestar
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -