Introducción

Solo prereq

Partes

No se requieren partes.

  1. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del conector de auriculares de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del conector de auriculares de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    After connect the cable aux is not working

    deepak selvanathan - Contestar

    Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

    Ross Karnes - Contestar

    Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

    Cameron Melvin - Contestar

  2. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector izquierdo del altavoz y sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Utiliza la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca hacia arriba y hacia afuera del conector de altavoz derecho de su zócalo en la placa lógica
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector izquierdo del altavoz y sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca hacia arriba y hacia afuera del conector de altavoz derecho de su zócalo en la placa lógica

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en el cabezal del cable, y no en el mismo enchufe. Si presionas el zócalo, puede separarse de la placa lógica.

    This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

    http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

    My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

    Rich - Contestar

    Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

    Kitipong Mork - Contestar

    Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

    Jer - Contestar

    Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

    i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?

    Steven Rai - Contestar

  3. Saca cualquier cinta que cubra el conector  del cable plano del teclado Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.
    • Saca cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del teclado

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    • Asegúrate de estar haciendo palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagra, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el cable plano del teclado de su zócalo.

    On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

    sturmjonny - Contestar

    This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

    Jer - Contestar

    Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

    Andrew Dunning - Contestar

    This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

    Jay Rajamanickam - Contestar

  4. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable plano del trackpad desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable plano del trackpad desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  5. ¡Envío gratuito para todos los pedidos de más de USD100 o que contengan un Pro Tech Toolkit!

    Visita Nuestra Tienda
  6. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la luz de fondo del teclado desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la luz de fondo del teclado desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  7. Usa la punta de un spudger o la uña para levantar la lengüeta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable de micrófono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o la uña para levantar la lengüeta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable de micrófono.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la lengüeta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Saca el cable plano del micrófono de su enchufe.

    A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

    Louie - Contestar

    Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

  8. Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el lado de entrada de DC de la computadora. Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el lado de entrada de DC de la computadora.

    • Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    I'd recommend using the pliers.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

  9. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la tapa de rosca de goma de la cabeza del tornillo elevado cerca del conector MagSafe 2.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la tapa de rosca de goma de la cabeza del tornillo elevado cerca del conector MagSafe 2.

  10. Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior:
    • Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 5,8 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de cabeza elevada de 5,2 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx de plata de 3,5 mm

    While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

    anthony - Contestar

    anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

    Kitipong Mork - Contestar

    when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

    Robert Gregory - Contestar

    green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

    auntialias - Contestar

  11. Levantando desde el lado más cercano a la batería, gira la placa lógica hacia la parte superior de la MacBook Pro. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, empuja con cuidado el conector MagSafe 2 fuera de su zócalo en la parte inferior de la placa lógica. Al volver a instalar la placa lógica, verifica los cables en las ubicaciones marcadas para asegurarse de que no quedan fijados debajo de la placa lógica.
    • Levantando desde el lado más cercano a la batería, gira la placa lógica hacia la parte superior de la MacBook Pro.

    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, empuja con cuidado el conector MagSafe 2 fuera de su zócalo en la parte inferior de la placa lógica.

    • Al volver a instalar la placa lógica, verifica los cables en las ubicaciones marcadas para asegurarse de que no quedan fijados debajo de la placa lógica.

    • En el sentido de las agujas del reloj desde la parte superior: teclado, panel táctil, batería, altavoz derecho, del teclado, pantalla, micrófono, toma de auriculares, altavoz izquierdo.

    In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

    Then I followed bullet #2.

    Kitipong Mork - Contestar

    Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Contestar

    Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

    talarohk - Contestar

    @radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

    Jer - Contestar

    Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

    E Carlton Hays Jr - Contestar

    My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

    I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

    Tom - Contestar

    I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

    Yemi Dalley - Contestar

    In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

    raul - Contestar

    reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

    I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.

    Timothy de Wal - Contestar

    Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.

    Calvin Truong -

    100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.

    kevinhayes656 -

    Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!

    privat - Contestar

    I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.

    Jonathan McCaffrey -

    Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.

    The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.

    Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.

    I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.

    One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.

    Steve Hills - Contestar

  12. Retira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica de la MacBook Pro.
    • Retira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica de la MacBook Pro.

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Una persona más ha completado esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

88%

Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

Brett Hartt

Miembro Desde 12/04/10

110,598 Reputación

138 Guías creadas

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Community

108 Miembros

8,295 Guías creadas

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 Horas: 0

Últimos 7 Días: 0

Últimos 30 Días: 1

Todo El Tiempo: 677