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Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar el cristal frontal y el conjunto del digitador en un iPad 5.

Date cuenta de que al estar el sensor de Touch ID en el botón inicio y está asociado a la placa lógica, esta guía incluye instrucciones para quitar el botón de inicio. Para mantener la funcionalidad del Touch ID, necesitas transferir el botón de inicio original al nuevo conjunto del panel frontal.

  1. Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado a el iOpener. Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado a el iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Contestar

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Contestar

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Contestar

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Contestar

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Contestar

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

  2. Calienta el  iOpener durante treinta segundos.
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa.

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Contestar

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Contestar

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Contestar

  3. Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Contestar

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Contestar

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Contestar

  4. Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo. Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente un iOpener.
    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente un iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

  5. Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantenga la rotura contenida y evite daños corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva. Coloque tiras superpuestas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara. Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al levantar la pantalla.
    • Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantenga la rotura contenida y evite daños corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva.

    • Coloque tiras superpuestas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al levantar la pantalla.

    • Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, una vez que se rompa el vidrio, es probable que continúe agrietándose mientras trabaja, y es posible que necesite usar una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el vidrio.

    • Use anteojos de seguridad para proteger sus ojos y tenga cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Contestar

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Contestar

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Contestar

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Contestar

    I thought this shouldn’t be too hard - I only had some cracks in the glass, but then at every spot I worked on, the glass turned into nothing but tons of tiny shards. I had to use the points of the tweezers plowing along only the outer edge all the way around, sometimes with a razor blade and often using a hair dryer up close (briefly, over and over). After I got every bit of glass out, I used ordinary rubbing alcohol and Q-tips but I had to rub hard and quickly 100 times on each area to slowly dissolve the glue. I only scratched the LCD once slightly with a tweezer slip. The large chucks of display held together by the packing tape needs something under it to protect the LCD while you are working.

    Robin - Contestar

    I found the hair dryer is far more effective and less dangerous than using the iopener. If you overheat the iopener you end up pulling a hot plastic bag spewing hot glycerine out of your microwave! Not fun!

    Clifford Sullivan - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

  6. Manejándolo por la etiqueta, coloca el iOpener calentado en el costado del iPad a la izquierda del botón de inicio. Deja que el iOpener repose durante al menos un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.
    • Manejándolo por la etiqueta, coloca el iOpener calentado en el costado del iPad a la izquierda del botón de inicio.

    • Deja que el iOpener repose durante al menos un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Contestar

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Contestar

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Contestar

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - Contestar

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - Contestar

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - Contestar

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - Contestar

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    I used a 2-level heat gun, too. Supposedly 707 degrees/923 degrees.

    I kept the heat gun about 1” away from the glass and used only the low setting. Even so, I did alter the digitizer pretty quickly in a few locations around the edge. It still functions fine, and you only see it under certain circumstances, so not a huge deal. But irritating. Be cautious about too much heat. It just looks like sort of a faint, polarized grid.

    Don’t be afraid to put tension on the glue and just hold it. If it is warm enough, the glue will relax under sustained tension. This isn’t a speed event. Don’t try to rush it, or you’ll break something.

    Now that those infrared surface thermometers have become so inexpensive, it would be great if someone posted a target temperature for softening the glue without damage. That would take some of the guesswork out of this process.

    Tim - Contestar

    If you heat the iOpener somewhat longer than they recommend, and get it about as hot as your hand can stand, then place it on the iPad and cover with a towel for at least 3 minutes. Then really be patient. I got a bit impatient, and took a chance and slipped a really fine “exacto-type” of blade vertically beside the suction cup as I lifted, and thankfully that worked. That made enough room to get one of the “guitar pick” wedges in. The rest went fine.

    Pete - Contestar

  7. Si bien el iPad se ve uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y haz palanca en las áreas descritas en cada paso. A medida que sigas las instrucciones, ten especial cuidado para evitar hacer palanca en las siguientes áreas: Cámara frontal
    • Si bien el iPad se ve uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y haz palanca en las áreas descritas en cada paso.

    • A medida que sigas las instrucciones, ten especial cuidado para evitar hacer palanca en las siguientes áreas:

    • Cámara frontal

    • Antenas

    • Cables de pantalla

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - Contestar

    A note about the multiple image thumbnails - roll your mouse over them to get an animated effect, rather than clicking on them individually

    Rusty - Contestar

  8. Coloca con cuidado una ventosa a la mitad del lado calentado. Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético. Mientras mantienes presionado el iPad con una mano, tira de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el cristal del panel frontal de la carcasa trasera.
    • Coloca con cuidado una ventosa a la mitad del lado calentado.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético.

    • Mientras mantienes presionado el iPad con una mano, tira de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el cristal del panel frontal de la carcasa trasera.

    • Si la pantalla de tu iPad está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa suave de cinta adhesiva transparente puede ayudar a que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, usa una cinta fuerte (como cinta adhesiva para conductos) y dóblala en un asa.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Contestar

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Contestar

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Contestar

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Contestar

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Contestar

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Contestar

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - Contestar

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - Contestar

    You really need a lot of patience here (30-45min). But then it works. The best way was with this plastic "crowbar" to get the beginning. You really have to press hard to get in between.

    Arne Meier - Contestar

  9. Coloca un púa de apertura en el espacio abierto por la ventosa. No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar el pico demasiado lejos puede dañar la pantalla LCD. Tire de la protuberancia plástica de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retire la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
    • Coloca un púa de apertura en el espacio abierto por la ventosa.

    • No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar el pico demasiado lejos puede dañar la pantalla LCD.

    • Tire de la protuberancia plástica de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retire la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - Contestar

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - Contestar

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - Contestar

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - Contestar

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - Contestar

    The iOpener works well, be patient and keep reheating until you can see the screen start to give a little. I kept putting mine in the microwave and it worked faster when the iOpener was hotter. 40 second intervals did the trick for me eventually

    Jackson Taylor - Contestar

    I spent an hour trying to lift the screen of an iPad Air first gen. The trick I found was that its a combination of lifting the screen a millimetre and then wiggling a razor blade vertically in the slot between the screen and the metal frame (yes its a microscopic slot). I used a hair drier on a section of the edge of the middle of the screen as above. The middle area allows for a bit of flexibility in the rail - we’re talking 0.5mm which is just enough for the razor.

    So hit a section of the screen edge with the drier till its hot to touch, do the suction cap thing as above, insert the blade vertically and wiggle it *ever so slightly* in the slot as you don’t want to break anything. Keep repeating this until you see even the slightest rise in the screen under the cap. At this point, remove the razor and insert the blue pick. It should easily dig in and under the screen, but no further than the black border.

    Remember, small wiggly steps will avoid breaking anything. Better a number of small heat and wiggles than a lift and snap.

    Rusty - Contestar

    for those who need to open more than one iPad, the iflex is safer and more effective than a razor blade. i use it to get started then switch to a pick

    iFlex Opening Tool

    Stow - Contestar

    Yea, this suction cup cracked my glass. This made it near impossible to slide the picks around. I may try again another day, but I suspect it’s toast at this point.

    Jason Prothero - Contestar

  10. Recalienta y reemplaza el iOpener.
    • Recalienta y reemplaza el iOpener.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Contestar

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It still says 2 Minutes up there in the warning

    Sandro Krumbein - Contestar

  11. Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza. Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza. Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.
    • Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Contestar

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Contestar

    With my shattered screen, I was able to remove it using the suction cup slightly and a metal pry, had to break the edge glass some for removal also but it didn’t do damage. More layers of shipping tape helped to make the screen stay together better and come off more intact.

    Jackson Taylor - Contestar

  12. Continúa moviendo la púa de apertura hacia abajo al costado de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo. Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo. Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo.
    • Continúa moviendo la púa de apertura hacia abajo al costado de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo.

    • Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Contestar

  13. Toma la primera herramienta que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior del iPad. Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar. Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.
    • Toma la primera herramienta que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior del iPad.

    • Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Contestar

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Contestar

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  14. Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.
    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    • Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar la esquina superior izquierda y el borde superior al mismo tiempo.

  15. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

  16. Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndose justo antes de llegar a la cámara. La tercera imagen muestra dónde están la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad. Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que puede untar adhesivo en la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán la mejor manera de evitar molestar a la cámara frontal.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndose justo antes de llegar a la cámara.

    • La tercera imagen muestra dónde están la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.

    • Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que puede untar adhesivo en la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán la mejor manera de evitar molestar a la cámara frontal.

  17. Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior. Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior. Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior.
    • Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior.

    At this point I’d use paper tape on the margins of the screen to mask off areas where you should use caution with the pick. Its just a visual reminder not to run the picker too deep in these areas. They are: the camera lens, lower right hand side and where the two antenna are along the base. Step 6 third image highlights these areas.

    Rusty - Contestar

  18. Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal. Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde. Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde.
    • Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal.

    • Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde.

  19. Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina. Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina. Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.
    • Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

  20. Deja las tres pías en las esquinas del iPad para evitar que se vuelva a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.
    • Deja las tres pías en las esquinas del iPad para evitar que se vuelva a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.

    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el lado restante del iPad, junto con los botones de volumen y bloqueo.

  21. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad, liberando el adhesivo allí. Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar, y toma una nueva selección para el siguiente paso.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad, liberando el adhesivo allí.

    • Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar, y toma una nueva selección para el siguiente paso.

  22. Inserta una púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza. Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad. Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad.
    • Inserta una púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    • Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Contestar

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Contestar

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - Contestar

    I also damaaged the digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. Use just the tip of the opening pick.

    Dean Gross - Contestar

    People need to realize iFixit routinely duplicates instructions for more than one type of repair/replacement. However, all of the comments are combined, which leads to confusion.

    laura moon - Contestar

  23. Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad.
    • Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad.

  24. Desliza la púa inferior izquierda hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina. Deja la púa en la esquina. No hagas palanca más y no quites la púa del iPad. La tercera imagen muestra las dos antenas y la cavidad del botón de inicio en el cuerpo del iPad.
    • Desliza la púa inferior izquierda hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.

    • Deja la púa en la esquina. No hagas palanca más y no quites la púa del iPad.

    • La tercera imagen muestra las dos antenas y la cavidad del botón de inicio en el cuerpo del iPad.

    • Los siguientes pasos te indicarán dónde hacer palanca para evitar daños a estos componentes. Solo aplica calor y haz palanca donde se te indique.

  25. Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar. Con una nueva púa, desliza suavemente sobre la antena de la izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio. Desliza solo la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la punta hacia el borde exterior, ya que moverse en esta dirección puede dañar la antena.
    • Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.

    • Con una nueva púa, desliza suavemente sobre la antena de la izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.

    • Desliza solo la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la punta hacia el borde exterior, ya que moverse en esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    • Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior más de una vez, retírala y vuelve a insertarla en el borde exterior, y deslízala hacia adentro.

    • Deja la púa en su lugar antes de continuar.

  26. Toma una nueva púa y deslízala a la derecha de la selección anterior. Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo. Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo.
    • Toma una nueva púa y deslízala a la derecha de la selección anterior.

    • Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo.

  27. Con el adhesivo aflojado, ahora puedes insertar la púa cerca de la esquina derecha. Desliza la púa hacia la izquierda y detente justo antes del botón de Inicio. Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena. Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena.
    • Con el adhesivo aflojado, ahora puedes insertar la púa cerca de la esquina derecha. Desliza la púa hacia la izquierda y detente justo antes del botón de Inicio.

    • Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - Contestar

    Sadly only after damaging my home button flex cable, I read your comment. There should be a big warning here as it is very easy to tear this cable.

    Bouke - Contestar

    I also damaged the home button cable. Check the placement of the cables in steps 37-44.

    Paul Klein - Contestar

  28. Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en el lado de control de volumen del iPad.
    • Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en el lado de control de volumen del iPad.

  29. Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo esté caliente y suave, y que haya pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar. En el lado del iPad opuesto a los controles de volumen, debe tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.
    • Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo esté caliente y suave, y que haya pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar.

    • En el lado del iPad opuesto a los controles de volumen, debe tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

    • Si encuentras una cantidad significativa de resistencia, deja las púas en su lugar, vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en las áreas problemáticas.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

  30. Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla. Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.
    • Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

  31. Mientras sostienes el vidrio del panel frontal, usa una púa de apertura para cortar el último adhesivo. Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla. Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla.
    • Mientras sostienes el vidrio del panel frontal, usa una púa de apertura para cortar el último adhesivo.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - Contestar

    The front camera has a black bezel cover but it is attached to the broken glass digitizer. Peel it off and save it. I plan to tack glue it to the camera instead of gluing it back to the new digitizer glass. It has two alignment bumps so maybe it doesn’t need gluing to either side but I found it on the ground when it came off of the the broken digitizer. I almost tossed it as part of the broken glass.

    Robin - Contestar

  32. Una vez que se haya separado todo el adhesivo, abre el cristal frontal como una página en un libro y déjalo en tu espacio de trabajo. Durante el reensamblaje, limpia los restos del adhesivo de la carcasa (y el vidrio frontal si lo estás reutilizando) con alcohol isopropílico, y reemplaza el adhesivo usando nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivon ytiras adhesivas precortadas.
    • Una vez que se haya separado todo el adhesivo, abre el cristal frontal como una página en un libro y déjalo en tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, limpia los restos del adhesivo de la carcasa (y el vidrio frontal si lo estás reutilizando) con alcohol isopropílico, y reemplaza el adhesivo usando nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivon ytiras adhesivas precortadas.

    • Es fácil pellizcar un cable flexible entre el cristal frontal y el marco del iPad durante el reensamblaje. Estáte atento a los cables flexibles y asegúrate de que se pliegan suavemente y se pliegan debajo del marco. Si los pliegues de un cable flexible se presionan por completo, puede dañarse sin posibilidad de reparación.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Contestar

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - Contestar

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - Contestar

    My screen from ifixit had the rigid flaps with adhesive also. I removed adhesive and adhered it to the new glass, it worked fine and solved the problem with the flaps not pushing down.

    Jackson Taylor - Contestar

    if there is adhesive glue on the inside of the digitizer and the top of the LCD what do you recommend to clean it.

    scprillwitz - Contestar

    Don’t throw away your old screen until you take the home button off of it! My screen was shattered and I kind of have a phobia of broken glass, so I bundled it all up and threw it into the trash can immediately. Next day when I went to continue the job I was sad that my roommate had finally taken out the trash for once and my home button was halfway to the dump by then.

    Sparky - Contestar

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is not really working well. I am using it with a qtip. Is there a certain way you recommend in order to actually the adhesive off?

    Brooke Parkhouse - Contestar

    Yes, the flap seemed to want to be attached to the glass, not go down the slot. All went together well, except that my home button doesn’t work. I suspect the connections wasn’t right, although I did my best to (gently but firmly) push it in. Too late to do anything about it now.

    Mussollini - Contestar

  33. Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD. Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD. Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD.
    • Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD.

  34. Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan la pantalla LCD.
    • Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan la pantalla LCD.

    • Tres tornillos de 4.0 mm

    • Un tornillo de 4.8 mm

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - Contestar

    **I believe you mean the “top Right corner” Is where the longer screw goes.. not left.

    Amanda Felske -

    ! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box

    John Smith - Contestar

    Where can I buy these screws please ?

    Anthony Roberts - Contestar

  35. No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla LCD. Todavía está conectado al iPad por varios cables en el extremo del botón de inicio. Levanta solo desde el extremo frontal de la cámara. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar la pantalla LCD de su hueco lo suficiente como para agarrarla con los dedos. Voltea el iPad LCD como una página en un libro, levanta cerca de la cámara y gíralo sobre el botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.
    • No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla LCD. Todavía está conectado al iPad por varios cables en el extremo del botón de inicio. Levanta solo desde el extremo frontal de la cámara.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar la pantalla LCD de su hueco lo suficiente como para agarrarla con los dedos.

    • Voltea el iPad LCD como una página en un libro, levanta cerca de la cámara y gíralo sobre el botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.

    • Sé gentil y vigila los cables de la pantalla LCD mientras volteas la pantalla.

    • Reposa la pantalla LCD sobre su superficie para permitir el acceso a los cables de la pantalla.

    • Coloca la pantalla LCD sobre una superficie suave, limpia y sin pelusas.

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

  36. Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que fija el conector de la batería a la placa lógica. Para reducir el riesgo de cortocircuito, puedes insertar un bloqueador de batería o una púa de apertura modificada para desconectar la batería. Se muy cuidadoso cuando aísles la batería usando un bloqueador de batería. Los contactos de la batería pueden ser dañados fácilmente, resultando en daño irreversible.
    • Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que fija el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.

    • Para reducir el riesgo de cortocircuito, puedes insertar un bloqueador de batería o una púa de apertura modificada para desconectar la batería.

    • Se muy cuidadoso cuando aísles la batería usando un bloqueador de batería. Los contactos de la batería pueden ser dañados fácilmente, resultando en daño irreversible.

    • Desliza el bloqueador de la batería debajo del área del conector de la batería de la placa lógica y déjalo en su lugar mientras trabajas.

    • Si tienes problemas insertando el bloqueador de batería debajo de la placa lógica, puedes tratar de usar una carta de juego para desconectar la batería.

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - Contestar

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - Contestar

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - Contestar

    Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise

    John Marx -

    I don’t know if it applies to the iPad Air, but I saw elsewhere in my researches in reference to a iPad mini (or was it an iPod mini?) that disconnecting the LCD and/or digitizer with the battery still connected will blow a “fuse” for the backlight. Might yours still be working, just with no screen illumination whatsoever? Dunno. Just a thought.

    It apparently can be repaired, but is no longer a DIY job.

    Tim -

    try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.

    Bryan Cruse - Contestar

    A replacement of the battery connector is required if pins are bent should you get power on or charge issue after battery disconnection. This can be replaced with the right tools and low melt solder to remove the connector and replace.

    Best method to disconnect battery is to carefully lift the logic board near the battery connector enough to slip a piece of thin plastic or paper between the batter connector and the logic board battery connector and pins.

    Failing to isolate battery so can result in blown back light or touch filters or diodes in backlight circuit.

    At the very least run down the battery flat prior to repair but you are really best to isolate battery.

    markduff - Contestar

    From a repair point of view. This connector is a royal pain. For assembly it's great, well, nearly great.

    This connector is SOLDERED to the motherboard side. Never lever this on the motherboard side, I will call it the right hand side. It will break leaving it's soldered pins behind. Yes I did it.

    The pins, on the battery side of this connector, just rest on the batteries plated pads. They are kept under tension by the screw. It should be noted though that removal of the screw will not disconnect the connector pins from the battery pads. Natural tension is still present.

    I suggest strongly that you take a look at the battery connector online to see the nature of the pins and you will see that some are quite delicate.

    The tools purpose is to raise the battery side of the connector ; the left side, so there is some clearance between the pins and the batteries pads. If you have seen a picture of this connector then you will realise the potential of damage to this connector and will have a better idea of what to do.

    Biskwit2 - Contestar

    Contd.

    Lifting the connector and simultaneously sliding a thin piece of card or plastic under the pins should be done carefully. In fact, to minimise damage I just slid it under ONE of the main battery pins, plus or minus, which are in the middle and quite robust compared with the tiddlers on the side of the connector.

    The second point, the battery and the motherboard have protection circuitry. When I broke my connector the battery dropped to 0.5V at the terminals. Connecting the charger, when all the connections were sound and not shorted raised it from the dead back to over 3.2V

    Biskwit2 - Contestar

    I replaced the battery, and got things hooked backup. For the test, the screen came on, digitizer seemed to be functioning fine. But I couldn’t get it to charge. I used the i-fixit battery blocker by using my spooger to put a little up pressure on the board, and then sliding the blocker in. I don’t think I damaged the pins, but its possible. This is a friends ipad, and its obviously been dropped a few times. I started eye balling the charging port, it LOOKS ok, but looks can be deceiving. When plugged in, even trying different cables, the ipad is not showing the charging symbol. Some of the comments here seem to imply, if I damaged the battery connection pins, I would still get a charging symbol. My question is, if I damaged those battery connector pins, would the ipad show the charging icon or not? Should I be looking at replacing the charging port?

    Mike Lindsay - Contestar

  37. Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla.
    • Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla.

    Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.

    Brian Anderson - Contestar

  38. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica. El conector del cable de la pantalla está adherido a la parte inferior del soporte, por lo que no empujes el spudger demasiado debajo del soporte, o podría dañar el conector.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica.

    • El conector del cable de la pantalla está adherido a la parte inferior del soporte, por lo que no empujes el spudger demasiado debajo del soporte, o podría dañar el conector.

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - Contestar

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: Cómo quitar un tornillo barrido

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - Contestar

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - Contestar

  39. Quita la pantalla LCD.
    • Quita la pantalla LCD.

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.

    B. A. Computer Services - Contestar

    If the battery blocking method is outdated and dangerous, why not show us the new, safer method? Just a thought.

    hdrjunkie - Contestar

    There is a separate guide for replacing the outer glass ;)

    Gerald Bowen - Contestar

  40. Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio. Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.
    • Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.

    I totally skipped steps 39-98 I didn’t see any need to remove all these components and the logic board just to get the battery out. I gently pried up the board where the battery connector goes in, slipped it out, and slipped in the new one.

    Seth Childers - Contestar

    That is a great tip. There is plenty of space inside the case to lever out the battery without taking out all of the components. I laid the iPad on top of a large bean bag, heated for 3 minutes in the microwave. After 4-5 minutes, I was able to lever out the battery with the spudger and the credit cards. It came out after a few minutes of careful levering and cramming the credit cards under the battery. I unscrewed the earphone connector and carefully taped it back to the iPad housing with paint tape to have more room to maneuver.

    Jonathan Koehler -

    I second this.

    Just be careful to make sure you don’t squish or tear any wires or anything else surrounding when you’re fighting with the batteries, and it’s still way easier than removing everything else in there first.

    I’ll add one bit, though. The hole in the battery connector that accepts the screw through the logic board also apparently slips over a pin in which the screw seats. I couldn’t see that. So when I got the last bit of battery adhesive to let go, the pin tore out the battery connector hole. Since I was replacing the battery, it wasn’t a problem, but did produce a little conductive piece that I had to fish out before putting anything back together. Wouldn’t want that little torn out piece running around in there to short something out later.

    Also, that pin will locate the battery correctly, so that in one of the last steps of reassembly, the battery connection screws together properly. Make sure you find it before the battery adhesive grabs on to the back of the case.

    Tim -

    Careful removing the tape. The home button has a zif connector and if you aren’t careful the tape can rip the zif flap right off. You might have to hold it down while you pull it off or pull the tape from a different direction to make sure you dont tear the zif tab off.

    Sarah Ybarra - Contestar

  41. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la pestaña del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio hacia arriba. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón Home horizontalmente del conector ZIF. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón Home horizontalmente del conector ZIF.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la pestaña del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio hacia arriba.

    • Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón Home horizontalmente del conector ZIF.

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - Contestar

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - Contestar

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - Contestar

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - Contestar

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - Contestar

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - Contestar

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    Just fitted the screen, the digitizer works, display all good but I had a message saying I could not use touch ID and the home button doesn’t work at all…is this expected?

    Paul Kelly - Contestar

    I break the ZIF connector. Is tat touch connecter.?

    aiyathurai Aathee - Contestar

    How do you take the ribbon cable off from the home button site???

    BP Thompson - Contestar

    Pull the ribbon horizontally out, not up

    Rusty - Contestar

  42. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable del digitalizador directamente desde sus enchufes. Para evitar dañar tu iPad, haz palanca solo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica. Para evitar dañar tu iPad, haz palanca solo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable del digitalizador directamente desde sus enchufes.

    • Para evitar dañar tu iPad, haz palanca solo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica.

    What are those connectors for because i kinda half broke the left one on the screen on the glass frame and now the lcd wont turn on

    SuperCow_man - Contestar

  43. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera.
    • Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera.

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - Contestar

    On the replacement screen I received from you, the home screen ribbon cable does not fully seat inside the Zif connector like the original and will not lock in place as a result. It seems too fat. Any tips to make it work?

    Greg DeCelle - Contestar

    I can’t think of any reason for that other than it’s the wrong display for your model, or it’s defective. Double-check the model very carefully and make sure you ordered/received a compatible part. If you ordered from iFixit, contact customer support directly for returns or exchanges. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I didn’t receive any of the two sided tape…I assume it needed to be ordered separately??

    So, when I removed the glass, the bottom cable tore and I have to replace it. The video is not as clear regarding replacement. The old button had a round rubber gasket but the new one does not. No inst. how to re-use it. I can’t attach and keep in place the new button.

    Michael Goss - Contestar

    In a previous repair, i broke the zif, what you want to do is hold it down while removing the tape, otherwise it will pull the parts up with it.

    Since it was broke i put a piece of electrical tape on top for the pressure the zif would push down, then another piece from the screw hole to the bend in the cable, so it does not come loose when putting back together.

    Neil Rogers - Contestar

  44. Quita el conjunto del panel frontal. Durante el reensamblaje, limpia el polvo o las huellas dactilares del interior del conjunto del panel frontal para garantizar una pantalla limpia.
    • Quita el conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, limpia el polvo o las huellas dactilares del interior del conjunto del panel frontal para garantizar una pantalla limpia.

    • Si experimentas problemas de entrada táctil "fantasma" con tu nueva pantalla, esto se puede resolver agregando una capa de cinta aislante muy delgada, como la cinta Kapton (poliimida), a las áreas resaltadas en la parte posterior del panel . Los paneles iFixit vienen con el aislamiento adecuado y no deben requerir la adición de ninguna cinta.

    • Sin el aislamiento adecuado, estas áreas del digitalizador pueden conectarse a tierra contra otros componentes, causando mal funcionamiento de la entrada táctil.

    • El aislamiento no es visible a simple vista, y es diferente de las tiras de barrera de polvo de espuma que se encuentran en muchos iPads.

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - Contestar

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - Contestar

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - Contestar

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - Contestar

    This is what I need too!

    Sarah Ybarra -

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - Contestar

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - Contestar

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - Contestar

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My digitizer kit from ifixit also looks like it is missing the polyimide tape on the digitizer. Can someone confirm that i do not need to get the tape with the original ifixit kit and just slap the digitizer on there?

    Alex -

    what is the difference between the right and left antenna?. My right antenna is damage and cant find a replacement. Can I use only the left one?

    Daniel C - Contestar

    I did not realize that aftermarket screens (besides the one ifixit sells) do not come with adhesive strips. Well worth the time to figure out what kind of adhesive you’re going to use to re-adhere the glass before you begin. Stopping while you’re so close to the end of the repair (or having to open the ipad up again after the screen doesn’t stick back down) is slightly frustrating.

    Robert - Contestar

    I used a b-7000. 48 h cure time.

    Jean masaoka -

    Thank you for your guide, it helped me fix my son’s iPad!

    Bill - Contestar

    Just wanna say thank you. I replaced my LCD and digitizer today…. took a LOT longer to get that adhesive off than I expected. And the IOpener busted in my microwave despite following all directions (eg only 30 sec at a time, out for at least 10 min before reheating. So that sucked. Turns out the rice in a sock worked pretty well too.

    GC Mitts - Contestar

    Regarding assembly: even with carefully tucking the ribbon cables down the side while reassembling, it’s still hard to get that area to stick down.

    Gary Wolfe - Contestar

    Some advice when reassembling that I have learned in the hard way.

    One good hint is to those who buy replacement parts that are not exactly the original ones. Some of the parts come with a 3M adhesive tape on the tab of the flex cables (I guess original parts are already folded and glued). I would strongly recommend to be very careful when you try to glue it on the front panel and maybe watch a video on how to fold it properly, so as not to fold or pinch the flex cable on an unrepairable way. Also, some of the low cost parts come with a very strong protection sticker on the front glass. It is advisable that you peel off the sticker before reassembling the ipad in order to not end up ruining the glue that was supposed to hold the front panel .

    Jean masaoka - Contestar

  45. Comienza suavemente a quitar el cable del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal. Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable. Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable.
    • Comienza suavemente a quitar el cable del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.

    • Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable.

    START using extreme caution at this point. This ribbon IS VERY FRAGILE, especially after the silver rectangle/shield. That gold piece is attached to the cable.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

  46. Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador. Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador.
    • Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador.

    I lifted the metal shield from the outside edge so not to tear the ribbon cable. I think I even used the razor blade (the tool of last resort).

    Robin - Contestar

  47. Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio. Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio.
    • Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio.

    I ripped the ribbon cable out of the button at this step… be extremely gentle!

    James - Contestar

    So what exactly does this metal contact do? Can the HB work without that single gold contact?

    Perrin Aybara - Contestar

    Can anyone answer this question? The gold metal rectangle contact ripped off even horizontally with the rest of the home button cable. Do I need to order a whole new home button with cable? Or will I at least get functionality from the home button, only missing that little gold rectangle ?

    PC Ops -

    Thank you for showing the bracket up close!

    Dvi - Contestar

    EXTREME CAUTION!!! The little metal contact is very fragile. I ripped mine off. Well, when I say ripped I mean I breathed on it.

    I would suggest maybe warming that part up before pulling and don’t just pull up from the main ribbon. Work it slowly.

    David Raines - Contestar

    CAUTION!!! that little gold contact got me too!! Please update the instructions to include this.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

    Did you find out if the home button still works without the rectangular gold contact?

    PC Ops -

    I wish I didn’t peel this last piece off, I don’t think you need to. It seems to be what keeps the bracket lined up over the button. Now I have to try to glue it back on perfectly so the bracket is centered over the home button.

    Robin - Contestar

  48. Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el soporte del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal. Al volver a colocar el soporte del botón de inicio, usa un poco de adhesivo o cinta de doble cara para asegurar el soporte en su lugar. Una vez que hayas separado un lado del soporte del botón de inicio, sujeta firmemente el soporte y retíralo del panel frontal.
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el soporte del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.

    • Al volver a colocar el soporte del botón de inicio, usa un poco de adhesivo o cinta de doble cara para asegurar el soporte en su lugar.

    • Una vez que hayas separado un lado del soporte del botón de inicio, sujeta firmemente el soporte y retíralo del panel frontal.

    I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    I had this problem too. Very frustrating. Not sure what I’d do to fix this. If you are repairing this for someone else, then super glue would not be the best option.

    MYMS! - Contestar

    I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    The home button that came with your iPad is the only one that will allow touchID to function. This is why this must be migrated from the old to the new screen. Of course, if your iPad does not have touchID, this is not a concern.

    Robert -

    TIP FOR HOME BUTTON REMOVAL

    I found it to be simpler by using the same pry tool shown in the image and pry the tab furthest from the flex cable. Its an easy start knowing that if you damage the cable you can loose Touch ID permanently.

    My steps were basically as follows in this specific order:

    1. Using a guitar pick, release the cable from the adhesive and SLOWLY lift up the cable and the components with it

    2. Once you reach the tabs that hold the home button in place, pry the tab furthest from the flex cable (this requires a little more force)

    3. Once the tab furthest from the home button is lifted away, you can hold on to the metal piece (The whole tab) and lift it away safely.

    4. Using your finger, press in the home button to release it from the glass and your done.

    Narayan Ramcharitar - Contestar

    After replacement m home button works fine, but it’s very loose in the housing. I can tip it around by moving my fingers to the edges. Any ideas what I did wrong?

    Mike van Grunsven - Contestar

    I had to use far more pressure to remove the bracket than I was comfortable with and when it came loose it went flying. Re-attaching is easy, but I used some hobby glue to secure it in place, so if the screen breaks again, that part is NOT coming off again. I’m guessing because I did this I don’t have the “depressed” issues that others have described, it seems to be like new at this point.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    I agree, the bracket needs glueing when refitting. Replaced the glass on my iPad and after a couple of days the home button came loose and stopped working. Now i just broke the glass when opening the iPad to fix the home button bracket. I love my life! :-)

    Mats Fredholm - Contestar

    I used a piece of the rectangular section of an adhesive strip cut to the exact size of the home button bracket feet to reattach it to the digitizer for reassembly. It is very strong and worked better than double sided tape or glue.

    Clifford Sullivan - Contestar

    agree. I did same. Also do not forget to remove protective film from the inner side of the new digitizer. Do it before you start reassembly.

    Igor Kapitanker -

  49. Presiona el botón de inicio desde el lado externo del digitalizador para romper el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar. Aplica presión lentamente. El adhesivo está unido a una junta delicada que se rasgará fácilmente.
    • Presiona el botón de inicio desde el lado externo del digitalizador para romper el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar.

    • Aplica presión lentamente. El adhesivo está unido a una junta delicada que se rasgará fácilmente.

    Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only

    Joe Hall - Contestar

    Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Buy an extra home button adhesive gasket. The adhesive from the original will not be reusable

    John Marx - Contestar

    I second this advice. I skipped it the first time, and the home button was too wiggly (although it worked). Now that I’ve replaced the screen a 2nd time (ugh), this time adding a new gasket, it’s a bit more firm, but still more wiggly than originally. If you don’t mind the button being lose, you probably can reuse the gasket, but if I have to do this again, I’ll probably get another gasket.

    Gary Wolfe -

    Yep, tore mine even as delicate as could be. I would highly recommend hitting the home button with a heat gun prior to attempting to remove. On the plus side, the replacement gaskets are cheap and easy enough to replace.

    Kevin Chatterton II - Contestar

    Notice the sharp crease in the ribbon cable near the home button? I thought I bent it at some point but it was already there.

    Robin - Contestar

  50. Quita el conjunto del botón de inicio.
    • Quita el conjunto del botón de inicio.

    Be very careful !!!!

    Easy Repair - Contestar

    I did a screen replacement and it’s impossible to place the home button bracket in the correct position, now the home button doesn’t click anymore. Works, but you have to press harder.

    fjaroski - Contestar

    Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.

    Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.

    Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    I second this - tore the home button cable during disassembly and ordered another home button assembly just to figure out that I need the gasket and holder as well as it was not included. -

    Michael Berneis -

    Yes - the metal contact on the home button tore… now I have to figure out how to do another repair. Also, my replacement screen comes with plastic on both sides and multiple tabs in different colors. Now I’m too scared to remove those for fear of ripping something.. you should have glass replace directions here too.

    Anu Anand - Contestar

    Hi sir

    Iam try replace ditigizer on iPad 6th gen

    Will my home button and finger print if I replace the home to another the home button will if I buy it from you guys

    John Clark - Contestar

    replaced the display with new home button assembly, new gasket, and holder - button works but fingerprint sensor not anymore - It would be great to have detailed instructions for the complete the home button assembly with all the different parts, not only the teardown for reference. - i.e. it seems you need to push the button through the gasket before assembly so the cable leaves inside and the order is glass-button-gasket-holder.

    Michael Berneis - Contestar

    The article explicitly states that the Home Button and the Motherboard are a BONDED PAIR. If you replace one without the other, Touch ID will stop working. This is why the instruction say you have to retain the button.

    Matt Spriggs - Contestar

    While I’m a fairly tech savvy person, telling people to reverse the steps is ridiculous—you need to show people what to expect. Second, include the home button on the new screen sale. I’m in the middle of the repair at this point, I’ve given you $100 and this seriously frustrating, especially when the home button you sell (which I had to buy after the screen, because I inadvertently tore off a bit) DOESN”T include the proper adhesive. PS—trying to get the adhesive on the new button is a practice in torture.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

    Now the adhesive ring in on the old glass and rips apart if you pull it off. I think you don’t need the adhesive ring but it keeps the button splash proof. I am going to use tiny amounts of glue but all the more reason to buy a new assy just for that ring.

    Robin - Contestar

    I had to notch out the glass adhesive just slightly where bottom right corner of the home button bracket sits against it. It is curved and needed to be squared off to match the bracket. I held the ribbon cable, button and bracket in place with tape before I glued the bracket. I also used a flashlight behind the bracket and button gap to see that the bump on the bracket was lined up with the button’s switch.

    Robin - Contestar

    I'm quite disappointed the fact that this is a replacement guide but does not include re-assembly steps.

    We ordered a new home button and gasket for an iPad 5, which works with the iPad 6 home button as well.

    Neither guide has re-assembly instructions for the home button.

    My customer service is important and I would like to see better guides that include disassembly and reassembly steps.

    I need to know how to properly apply a home button gasket to the home button.

    If I am missing something, please let me know.

    PS. It's not good practice to use metal tools so close to the main board. An insolated pair would be more ideal.

    Will Helbing - Contestar

    The small black dot on the home button microswitch comes off no matter how careful you are. Home button will not work properly if you loose the black dot. I have done 5-6 repairs and on 4 of them the black dot just fell off. I have been successful using a small piece of Kapton tape and reinstalling the black dot in the center of the home button microswitch.

    tomgeorge - Contestar

    I also removed a metal ring that sits between the gasket and the glass. It has the same shape of the gasket, and it’s glued to the glass after removing the home button assembly. Used a thin double-sided tape with strong glue when reassembling; maybe B7000 glue would be easier.

    Andre Saito - Contestar

    It's so frustrating seeing these guides that just say “follow these steps in the reverse order" when I'm really searching for a technique and guidance on replacing the rubber gasket and and proper placement of the bracket so it clicks as it should and doesn't sink in.

    Calan Belvin - Contestar

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