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Repara tus cosas

Derecho a reparar

Partes y herramientas

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar el cristal frontal y el conjunto del digitador en un iPad 5.

Date cuenta de que al estar el sensor de Touch ID en el botón inicio y está asociado a la placa lógica, esta guía incluye instrucciones para quitar el botón de inicio. Para mantener la funcionalidad del Touch ID, necesitas transferir el botón de inicio original al nuevo conjunto del panel frontal.

  1. Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado a el iOpener. Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado a el iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Contestar

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Contestar

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - Contestar

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - Contestar

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - Contestar

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - Contestar

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - Contestar

  2. Calienta el  iOpener durante treinta segundos.
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa.

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Contestar

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Contestar

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Contestar

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Contestar

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Contestar

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Contestar

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

  3. Saca el iOpener del microondas, cogiéndolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, cogiéndolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Contestar

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Contestar

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - Contestar

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - Contestar

  4. Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantenga la rotura contenida y evite daños corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva. Coloque tiras superpuestas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara. Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al levantar la pantalla.
    • Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantenga la rotura contenida y evite daños corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva.

    • Coloque tiras superpuestas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al levantar la pantalla.

    • Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, una vez que se rompa el vidrio, es probable que continúe agrietándose mientras trabaja, y es posible que necesite usar una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el vidrio.

    • Use anteojos de seguridad para proteger sus ojos y tenga cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Contestar

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Contestar

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Contestar

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Contestar

  5. Manejándolo por la etiqueta, coloca el iOpener calentado en el costado del iPad a la izquierda del botón de inicio. Deja que el iOpener repose durante al menos un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.
    • Manejándolo por la etiqueta, coloca el iOpener calentado en el costado del iPad a la izquierda del botón de inicio.

    • Deja que el iOpener repose durante al menos un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Contestar

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Contestar

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Contestar

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - Contestar

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - Contestar

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - Contestar

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - Contestar

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

  6. Si bien el iPad se ve uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y haz palanca en las áreas descritas en cada paso. A medida que sigas las instrucciones, ten especial cuidado para evitar hacer palanca en las siguientes áreas: Cámara frontal
    • Si bien el iPad se ve uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y haz palanca en las áreas descritas en cada paso.

    • A medida que sigas las instrucciones, ten especial cuidado para evitar hacer palanca en las siguientes áreas:

    • Cámara frontal

    • Antenas

    • Cables de pantalla

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - Contestar

  7. Coloca con cuidado una ventosa a la mitad del lado calentado. Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético. Mientras mantienes presionado el iPad con una mano, tira de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el cristal del panel frontal de la carcasa trasera.
    • Coloca con cuidado una ventosa a la mitad del lado calentado.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético.

    • Mientras mantienes presionado el iPad con una mano, tira de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el cristal del panel frontal de la carcasa trasera.

    • Si la pantalla de tu iPad está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa suave de cinta adhesiva transparente puede ayudar a que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, usa una cinta fuerte (como cinta adhesiva para conductos) y dóblala en un asa.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Contestar

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Contestar

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Contestar

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Contestar

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Contestar

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Contestar

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - Contestar

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - Contestar

  8. Coloca un púa de apertura en el espacio abierto por la ventosa. No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar el pico demasiado lejos puede dañar la pantalla LCD. Tire de la protuberancia plástica de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retire la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
    • Coloca un púa de apertura en el espacio abierto por la ventosa.

    • No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar el pico demasiado lejos puede dañar la pantalla LCD.

    • Tire de la protuberancia plástica de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retire la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - Contestar

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - Contestar

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - Contestar

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - Contestar

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - Contestar

  9. Recalienta y reemplaza el iOpener.
    • Recalienta y reemplaza el iOpener.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Contestar

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza. Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza. Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.
    • Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Contestar

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Contestar

  11. Continúa moviendo la púa de apertura hacia abajo al costado de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo. Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo. Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo.
    • Continúa moviendo la púa de apertura hacia abajo al costado de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo.

    • Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Contestar

  12. Toma la primera herramienta que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior del iPad. Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar. Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.
    • Toma la primera herramienta que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior del iPad.

    • Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Contestar

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Contestar

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  13. Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.
    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    • Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar la esquina superior izquierda y el borde superior al mismo tiempo.

  14. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

  15. Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndose justo antes de llegar a la cámara. La tercera imagen muestra dónde están la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad. Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que puede untar adhesivo en la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán la mejor manera de evitar molestar a la cámara frontal.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndose justo antes de llegar a la cámara.

    • La tercera imagen muestra dónde están la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.

    • Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que puede untar adhesivo en la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán la mejor manera de evitar molestar a la cámara frontal.

  16. Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior. Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior. Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior.
    • Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior.

  17. Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal. Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde. Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde.
    • Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal.

    • Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde.

  18. Kits para Nintendo Switch

    Una solución rápida para volver al juego

    Comprar kits de Switch

    Kits para Nintendo Switch

    Una solución rápida para volver al juego

    Comprar kits de Switch
  19. Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina. Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina. Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.
    • Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

  20. Deja las tres pías en las esquinas del iPad para evitar que se vuelva a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.
    • Deja las tres pías en las esquinas del iPad para evitar que se vuelva a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.

    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el lado restante del iPad, junto con los botones de volumen y bloqueo.

  21. Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad, liberando el adhesivo allí. Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar, y toma una nueva selección para el siguiente paso.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad, liberando el adhesivo allí.

    • Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar, y toma una nueva selección para el siguiente paso.

  22. Inserta una púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza. Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad. Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad.
    • Inserta una púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    • Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Contestar

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Contestar

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - Contestar

  23. Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad.
    • Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad.

  24. Desliza la púa inferior izquierda hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina. Deja la púa en la esquina. No hagas palanca más y no quites la púa del iPad. La tercera imagen muestra las dos antenas y la cavidad del botón de inicio en el cuerpo del iPad.
    • Desliza la púa inferior izquierda hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.

    • Deja la púa en la esquina. No hagas palanca más y no quites la púa del iPad.

    • La tercera imagen muestra las dos antenas y la cavidad del botón de inicio en el cuerpo del iPad.

    • Los siguientes pasos te indicarán dónde hacer palanca para evitar daños a estos componentes. Solo aplica calor y haz palanca donde se te indique.

  25. Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar. Con una nueva púa, desliza suavemente sobre la antena de la izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio. Desliza solo la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la punta hacia el borde exterior, ya que moverse en esta dirección puede dañar la antena.
    • Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.

    • Con una nueva púa, desliza suavemente sobre la antena de la izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.

    • Desliza solo la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la punta hacia el borde exterior, ya que moverse en esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    • Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior más de una vez, retírala y vuelve a insertarla en el borde exterior, y deslízala hacia adentro.

    • Deja la púa en su lugar antes de continuar.

  26. Toma una nueva púa y deslízala a la derecha de la selección anterior. Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo. Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo.
    • Toma una nueva púa y deslízala a la derecha de la selección anterior.

    • Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo.

  27. Con el adhesivo aflojado, ahora puedes insertar la púa cerca de la esquina derecha. Desliza la púa hacia la izquierda y detente justo antes del botón de Inicio. Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena. Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena.
    • Con el adhesivo aflojado, ahora puedes insertar la púa cerca de la esquina derecha. Desliza la púa hacia la izquierda y detente justo antes del botón de Inicio.

    • Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - Contestar

  28. Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en el lado de control de volumen del iPad.
    • Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en el lado de control de volumen del iPad.

  29. Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo esté caliente y suave, y que haya pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar. En el lado del iPad opuesto a los controles de volumen, debe tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.
    • Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo esté caliente y suave, y que haya pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar.

    • En el lado del iPad opuesto a los controles de volumen, debe tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

    • Si encuentras una cantidad significativa de resistencia, deja las púas en su lugar, vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en las áreas problemáticas.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

  30. Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla. Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.
    • Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

  31. Mientras sostienes el vidrio del panel frontal, usa una púa de apertura para cortar el último adhesivo. Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla. Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla.
    • Mientras sostienes el vidrio del panel frontal, usa una púa de apertura para cortar el último adhesivo.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - Contestar

  32. Una vez que se haya separado todo el adhesivo, abre el cristal frontal como una página en un libro y déjalo en tu espacio de trabajo. Durante el reensamblaje, limpia los restos del adhesivo de la carcasa (y el vidrio frontal si lo estás reutilizando) con alcohol isopropílico, y reemplaza el adhesivo usando nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivon ytiras adhesivas precortadas.
    • Una vez que se haya separado todo el adhesivo, abre el cristal frontal como una página en un libro y déjalo en tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, limpia los restos del adhesivo de la carcasa (y el vidrio frontal si lo estás reutilizando) con alcohol isopropílico, y reemplaza el adhesivo usando nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivon ytiras adhesivas precortadas.

    • Es fácil pellizcar un cable flexible entre el cristal frontal y el marco del iPad durante el reensamblaje. Estáte atento a los cables flexibles y asegúrate de que se pliegan suavemente y se pliegan debajo del marco. Si los pliegues de un cable flexible se presionan por completo, puede dañarse sin posibilidad de reparación.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Contestar

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - Contestar

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - Contestar

  33. Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD. Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD. Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD.
    • Quita cualquier cinta que oscurezca los tornillos de la pantalla LCD.

  34. Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan la pantalla LCD.
    • Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan la pantalla LCD.

    • Tres tornillos de 4.0 mm

    • Un tornillo de 4.8 mm

    Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.

    Brecht Bocket - Contestar

    ! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box

    John Smith - Contestar

  35. No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla LCD. Todavía está conectado al iPad por varios cables en el extremo del botón de inicio. Levanta solo desde el extremo frontal de la cámara. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar la pantalla LCD de su hueco lo suficiente como para agarrarla con los dedos. Voltea el iPad LCD como una página en un libro, levanta cerca de la cámara y gíralo sobre el botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.
    • No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla LCD. Todavía está conectado al iPad por varios cables en el extremo del botón de inicio. Levanta solo desde el extremo frontal de la cámara.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar la pantalla LCD de su hueco lo suficiente como para agarrarla con los dedos.

    • Voltea el iPad LCD como una página en un libro, levanta cerca de la cámara y gíralo sobre el botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.

    • Sé gentil y vigila los cables de la pantalla LCD mientras volteas la pantalla.

    • Reposa la pantalla LCD sobre su superficie para permitir el acceso a los cables de la pantalla.

    • Coloca la pantalla LCD sobre una superficie suave, limpia y sin pelusas.

    Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.

    At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

  36. Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que fija el conector de la batería a la placa lógica. Para reducir el riesgo de cortocircuito, puedes insertar un bloqueador de batería o una púa de apertura modificada para desconectar la batería. Desliza el bloqueador de la batería debajo del área del conector de la batería de la placa lógica y déjalo en su lugar mientras trabajas.
    • Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que fija el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.

    • Para reducir el riesgo de cortocircuito, puedes insertar un bloqueador de batería o una púa de apertura modificada para desconectar la batería.

    • Desliza el bloqueador de la batería debajo del área del conector de la batería de la placa lógica y déjalo en su lugar mientras trabajas.

    after inserting the tab between the battery, im having an issue with the battery taking a charge. charging port sees a cord plugged in, but this connection between battery and logic board is gone. any ideas?

    Matt - Contestar

    Hi were u able to fix this issue? I accidentally fried out the shield that secured the battery connector..now the ipad wont turn on :(

    Drew -

    Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.

    goodcyning - Contestar

    I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.

    Peter Gray - Contestar

    A little explanation here would be nice. Also, there wasn't a battery isolation pick in my kit. You should address this.

    dougintexas - Contestar

    Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?

    Tech-ER - Contestar

    Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise

    John Marx -

    try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.

    Bryan Cruse - Contestar

  37. Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla.
    • Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla.

    Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.

    Brian Anderson - Contestar

  38. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica. El conector del cable de la pantalla está adherido a la parte inferior del soporte, por lo que no empujes el spudger demasiado debajo del soporte, o podría dañar el conector.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica.

    • El conector del cable de la pantalla está adherido a la parte inferior del soporte, por lo que no empujes el spudger demasiado debajo del soporte, o podría dañar el conector.

    bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.

    originalpaintballpanda2 - Contestar

    I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: Cómo quitar un tornillo barrido

    goodcyning -

    Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?

    gwarren - Contestar

    Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.

    The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.

    The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.

    IPad - Contestar

  39. Quita la pantalla LCD.
    • Quita la pantalla LCD.

    Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.

    B. A. Computer Services - Contestar

  40. Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio. Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.
    • Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.

    I totally skipped steps 39-98 I didn’t see any need to remove all these components and the logic board just to get the battery out. I gently pried up the board where the battery connector goes in, slipped it out, and slipped in the new one.

    Seth Childers - Contestar

  41. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la pestaña del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio hacia arriba. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio directamente del conector ZIF. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio directamente del conector ZIF.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la pestaña del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio hacia arriba.

    • Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio directamente del conector ZIF.

    I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??

    Moses Roman - Contestar

    Moses Roman

    Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.

    I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)

    Bilal Kinali - Contestar

    I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.

    The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.

    daviddesignbristol - Contestar

    I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?

    Please give us some feedback.

    Elektromic - Contestar

    Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.

    RayM - Contestar

    To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.

    Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.

    Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.

    Have fun!

    Josh - Contestar

    Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?

    Luis Tamborrell -

    Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape

    Neil Davis -

    Just fitted the screen, the digitizer works, display all good but I had a message saying I could not use touch ID and the home button doesn’t work at all…is this expected?

    Paul Kelly - Contestar

  42. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable del digitalizador directamente desde sus enchufes. Para evitar dañar tu iPad, haz palanca solo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica. Para evitar dañar tu iPad, haz palanca solo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable del digitalizador directamente desde sus enchufes.

    • Para evitar dañar tu iPad, haz palanca solo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica.

    What are those connectors for because i kinda half broke the left one on the screen on the glass frame and now the lcd wont turn on

    SuperCow_man - Contestar

  43. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera. Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera.
    • Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera.

    THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.

    scottgogos - Contestar

    On the replacement screen I received from you, the home screen ribbon cable does not fully seat inside the Zif connector like the original and will not lock in place as a result. It seems too fat. Any tips to make it work?

    Greg DeCelle - Contestar

    I can’t think of any reason for that other than it’s the wrong display for your model, or it’s defective. Double-check the model very carefully and make sure you ordered/received a compatible part. If you ordered from iFixit, contact customer support directly for returns or exchanges. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I didn’t receive any of the two sided tape…I assume it needed to be ordered separately??

    So, when I removed the glass, the bottom cable tore and I have to replace it. The video is not as clear regarding replacement. The old button had a round rubber gasket but the new one does not. No inst. how to re-use it. I can’t attach and keep in place the new button.

    Michael Goss - Contestar

    In a previous repair, i broke the zif, what you want to do is hold it down while removing the tape, otherwise it will pull the parts up with it.

    Since it was broke i put a piece of electrical tape on top for the pressure the zif would push down, then another piece from the screw hole to the bend in the cable, so it does not come loose when putting back together.

    Neil Rogers - Contestar

  44. Quita el conjunto del panel frontal. Durante el reensamblaje, limpia el polvo o las huellas dactilares del interior del conjunto del panel frontal para garantizar una pantalla limpia.
    • Quita el conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, limpia el polvo o las huellas dactilares del interior del conjunto del panel frontal para garantizar una pantalla limpia.

    • Si experimentas problemas de entrada táctil "fantasma" con tu nueva pantalla, esto se puede resolver agregando una capa de cinta aislante muy delgada, como la cinta Kapton (poliimida), a las áreas resaltadas en la parte posterior del panel . Los paneles iFixit vienen con el aislamiento adecuado y no deben requerir la adición de ninguna cinta.

    • Sin el aislamiento adecuado, estas áreas del digitalizador pueden conectarse a tierra contra otros componentes, causando mal funcionamiento de la entrada táctil.

    • El aislamiento no es visible a simple vista, y es diferente de las tiras de barrera de polvo de espuma que se encuentran en muchos iPads.

    In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!

    Joe Kazura - Contestar

    the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.

    TJ Hellmuth - Contestar

    The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.

    I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.

    This was a very good ifix ii

    Rowell - Contestar

    Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?

    xsubguy - Contestar

    It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.

    Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape

    Randall Hooper - Contestar

    I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.

    tsolorio - Contestar

    Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.

    Ronny Barlow - Contestar

    @baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    what is the difference between the right and left antenna?. My right antenna is damage and cant find a replacement. Can I use only the left one?

    Daniel C - Contestar

    I did not realize that aftermarket screens (besides the one ifixit sells) do not come with adhesive strips. Well worth the time to figure out what kind of adhesive you’re going to use to re-adhere the glass before you begin. Stopping while you’re so close to the end of the repair (or having to open the ipad up again after the screen doesn’t stick back down) is slightly frustrating.

    Robert - Contestar

    Thank you for your guide, it helped me fix my son’s iPad!

    Bill - Contestar

  45. Comienza suavemente a quitar el cable del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal. Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable. Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable.
    • Comienza suavemente a quitar el cable del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.

    • Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable.

  46. Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador. Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador.
    • Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador.

  47. Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio. Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio.
    • Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio.

    I ripped the ribbon cable out of the button at this step… be extremely gentle!

    James - Contestar

    So what exactly does this metal contact do? Can the HB work without that single gold contact?

    Perrin Aybara - Contestar

    Thank you for showing the bracket up close!

    Dvi - Contestar

    EXTREME CAUTION!!! The little metal contact is very fragile. I ripped mine off. Well, when I say ripped I mean I breathed on it.

    I would suggest maybe warming that part up before pulling and don’t just pull up from the main ribbon. Work it slowly.

    David Raines - Contestar

  48. Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el soporte del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal. Al volver a colocar el soporte del botón de inicio, usa un poco de adhesivo o cinta de doble cara para asegurar el soporte en su lugar. Una vez que hayas separado un lado del soporte del botón de inicio, sujeta firmemente el soporte y retíralo del panel frontal.
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el soporte del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.

    • Al volver a colocar el soporte del botón de inicio, usa un poco de adhesivo o cinta de doble cara para asegurar el soporte en su lugar.

    • Una vez que hayas separado un lado del soporte del botón de inicio, sujeta firmemente el soporte y retíralo del panel frontal.

    I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    I had this problem too. Very frustrating. Not sure what I’d do to fix this. If you are repairing this for someone else, then super glue would not be the best option.

    MYMS! - Contestar

    I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    The home button that came with your iPad is the only one that will allow touchID to function. This is why this must be migrated from the old to the new screen. Of course, if your iPad does not have touchID, this is not a concern.

    Robert -

    TIP FOR HOME BUTTON REMOVAL

    I found it to be simpler by using the same pry tool shown in the image and pry the tab furthest from the flex cable. Its an easy start knowing that if you damage the cable you can loose Touch ID permanently.

    My steps were basically as follows in this specific order:

    1. Using a guitar pick, release the cable from the adhesive and SLOWLY lift up the cable and the components with it

    2. Once you reach the tabs that hold the home button in place, pry the tab furthest from the flex cable (this requires a little more force)

    3. Once the tab furthest from the home button is lifted away, you can hold on to the metal piece (The whole tab) and lift it away safely.

    4. Using your finger, press in the home button to release it from the glass and your done.

    Narayan Ramcharitar - Contestar

    After replacement m home button works fine, but it’s very loose in the housing. I can tip it around by moving my fingers to the edges. Any ideas what I did wrong?

    Mike van Grunsven - Contestar

    I had to use far more pressure to remove the bracket than I was comfortable with and when it came loose it went flying. Re-attaching is easy, but I used some hobby glue to secure it in place, so if the screen breaks again, that part is NOT coming off again. I’m guessing because I did this I don’t have the “depressed” issues that others have described, it seems to be like new at this point.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

  49. Presiona el botón de inicio desde el lado externo del digitalizador para romper el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar. Aplica presión lentamente. El adhesivo está unido a una junta delicada que se rasgará fácilmente.
    • Presiona el botón de inicio desde el lado externo del digitalizador para romper el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar.

    • Aplica presión lentamente. El adhesivo está unido a una junta delicada que se rasgará fácilmente.

    Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only

    Joe Hall - Contestar

    Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Buy an extra home button adhesive gasket. The adhesive from the original will not be reusable

    John Marx - Contestar

    Yep, tore mine even as delicate as could be. I would highly recommend hitting the home button with a heat gun prior to attempting to remove. On the plus side, the replacement gaskets are cheap and easy enough to replace.

    Kevin Chatterton II - Contestar

  50. Quita el conjunto del botón de inicio.
    • Quita el conjunto del botón de inicio.

    Be very careful !!!!

    Easy Repair - Contestar

    I did a screen replacement and it’s impossible to place the home button bracket in the correct position, now the home button doesn’t click anymore. Works, but you have to press harder.

    fjaroski - Contestar

    Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.

    Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.

    Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    I second this - tore the home button cable during disassembly and ordered another home button assembly just to figure out that I need the gasket and holder as well as it was not included. -

    Michael Berneis -

    Yes - the metal contact on the home button tore… now I have to figure out how to do another repair. Also, my replacement screen comes with plastic on both sides and multiple tabs in different colors. Now I’m too scared to remove those for fear of ripping something.. you should have glass replace directions here too.

    Anu Anand - Contestar

    Hi sir

    Iam try replace ditigizer on iPad 6th gen

    Will my home button and finger print if I replace the home to another the home button will if I buy it from you guys

    John Clark - Contestar

    replaced the display with new home button assembly, new gasket, and holder - button works but fingerprint sensor not anymore - It would be great to have detailed instructions for the complete the home button assembly with all the different parts, not only the teardown for reference. - i.e. it seems you need to push the button through the gasket before assembly so the cable leaves inside and the order is glass-button-gasket-holder.

    Michael Berneis - Contestar

    The article explicitly states that the Home Button and the Motherboard are a BONDED PAIR. If you replace one without the other, Touch ID will stop working. This is why the instruction say you have to retain the button.

    Matt Spriggs - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en sentido inverso.

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Why is the 1st Gen iPad being shown in a 5th Gen tear down? Is it exactly the same minus the Touch ID home button?

Tim - Contestar

The 1st Gen iPad Air and iPad 5th Gen are virtually the same minus the touch ID

Trevor Brodie - Contestar

Will the fifth generation of iPad liquid crystal cover the sixth generation?

cscs6938 - Contestar

Excellent tutorial! Precise, well written, and great pictures.

Eric Fassnacht - Contestar

OK so this might be nitpicking, repair was successful. Doing the process in reverse order, not quite accurate. The reverse order does not take into account the various shield plastic covers applied to keep everything clean. After you’ve re-installed the connectors and the various cables and installed the LCD. be sure to clean that puppy thoroughly under a bright light. I missed a tiny smudge at the bottom edge and it’s driving me nuts. The new digitizer cables are quite stiff and it takes some effort to get them in position without getting your fingers stuck to the adhesive while you’re working. The adhesive cover strip on the side of the cables is a bit tricky to remove as it is hindered by the conncted cables. Removing it first makes manipulating the digitizer assembly digfficult without messing up the adhesive. If you dont get the cables tucked away well the screen wont keep that edge down. Great teardown guide but the reassembly could use a few steps or just a note about tricks to get it done smoothly.

Michael King - Contestar

I’ll second this. Some additional detail on this part of the reassembly would help immensely.

cskellum4 -

Agreed. This should be mentioned, I had the same issue.

Robert -

Some important things to do before and during re-assembly with a new digitizer:

1. Clean out ALL remaining glue/duct tape from the frame (I use a cotton swab and some gasoline)!

2. Check for sufficient duct tape on your new digitizer

3. Check to sufficiently insulate the conductor tracks (the bronze lining) on your new digitizer or you’ll most likely have ghost movements after re-assembly. E.g. insulation tape

4. Keep some super glue gel (NOT the liquid - use the GEL) ready and apply some shortly before re-assambly on the right side of the frame where the cables connect the digitizer to the Logicboard => The tape area is most likely too small on this edge to create an efficient enough bonding. The stiff cables often push the digitizer from the inside. To be safe so your new glas wont lift up, apply the superglue gel in this area.

5. After re-assembly heat the frame along the edges with a heatgun and use clips to hold the glas down with some pressure. Let it cool out with the clips on so the glue/tape bonds nicely.

Tristan Falkner - Contestar

Anybody using super glue on their repairs needs to have their hands slapped… If the mounting surfaces are properly cleaned, prepped and primed, the original style adhesive will bond the screen to the housing adequately. When super glue is used, it contaminates the mounting surface, preventing the adhesive to bond properly on any future repairs where the tech wants to do the repair properly. To prevent lifting near the flex cable, manipulate the thick part of flex so that it is curled in a bit - this will allow the flex to slide into its given area and prevent it from pushing up on the glass and breaking the adhesive bond.

Kevin - Contestar

Can we confirm that if we must replace the home button assembly we will lose some functionality on this device?

Kyle - Contestar

Excellent tutoriel. Tout est expliqué TRÈS précisément, étape par étape. Mon chien avait explosé l’écran en milliers de paillettes . Le démontage m’a pris 3 heures en prenant mon temps et en étant extrêmement minutieux. Une lampe grossissante du type qu’utilise les pêcheurs à la mouche en montage est un vrai plus. L’avantage de ce tutoriel, c’est qu’il explique par très petites étapes et plein de photos précises et riches en renseignements, le mode opératoire sans rien oublier. Les mêmes peuvent donc servir pour le montage et le démontage. Un conseil, tester l'écran avant de le coller car emporter dans l’action, je l’ai fait. Il a fallu que je le décolle à nouveau pour vérifier d’ou venait le souci. En conclusion, de tous les tutoriels que j’ai pu utilisés jusqu’à aujourd’hui, c’est le mieux détaillé et le plus précis. Félicitations à son Créateur avec un grand C.

Nathalie Battut - Contestar

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order” is the kind of cop-out you’d find in a Chilton’s or Haynes auto repair manual, and not the exact methods and procedures, including tips for tucking tricky ribbon cables, that you’d find in a service or technical manual.

Scott S - Contestar

I have white lines at the top of my screen following reassembly. I think these come from the LCD. Is there a fix?

fiona_hodkinson - Contestar

Hello

Huh…. this is a headache….

Because I didn’t know that I need the original Home button somehow I damaged it.

So… somebody could tell me, what is my solution in my case, please?

As I see, I can’t buy a home button from 3rd parties with the Touch ID?

Is that correct?

Option 1 To buy it somewhere.

If not somebody could share where I can buy it, please.

Option 2 To get it maybe from an iPad that not working or as we knew it iPad for parts.

If yes, from which iPad i can take it? For sure 5th which other iPad have the same part as in the iPad 5 gen?

Vinnie - Contestar

-Great tutorial - took about 2.5 hours and works great.

-For those of you with a very cracked digitizer or one on which the suction cup otherwise won’t work (like mine), these are my suggestions:

1) cover the glass with clear packing tape so shards don’t get everywhere 2) heat up as directed, 3) use an xacto knife or razor blade to get under the edge of the glass in the spots directed for the pick, pry up with the knife, and put the pick in. Proceed as directed from there. In the “safe areas” you can use the knife to cut the adhesive as well, as an #11 xacto blade isn’t long enough to penetrate beyond the bezel.

-Getting the connectors reseated was the most nerve wracking part - they are hard to line up without any reference.

-The iFixit screen replacement has clear plastic tabs to remove. The order these should be removed in was not clear.

-The digitizer cables tend to get bunched under the right side of the digitizer, try to get these folded down and flattened before the final assembly.

richardeburgess - Contestar

Worked well for me.

zachary stertz - Contestar

Great tutorial. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I used a hairdryer as heat. I should have coughed up a few more bucks for the iopener. I had no luck with using tape to get suction on a cracked screen like I have done successfully on an iPhone. After a ton of heat I used a razor blade to peel up the digitizer edge and go from there with picks. You should also wear safety glasses as chips flew everywhere.

The worst part was cleaning the old glue and cleaning the screen before installing the new digitizer. Also those antennas at the bottom of the iPad are a bit fragile. I did not touch them with picks but I did damage one during cleaning of old adhesive. Seems to work fine though.

EDIT - I agree the guide could have used some tips for reassembly. The ribbon cables are a bit tricky to get folded in there and the adhesive complicated things. Also there is a clear protector on the inside of the digitizer.

ejmutnan - Contestar

What a waste of time and money. Had to break so much of it just to get the shattered glass out. Made everything worse. Had to do a separate order to get a new home button. Should have just got it repaired by someone. I Probably made it worse.

David Nerenberg - Contestar

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