Introducción
Desmontamos el mouse para llegar al cable conector para reemplazarlo con un cable nuevo.
Qué necesitas
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Es muy común que este cable se deshilache con el uso continuo. ¡Abramos este mouse y reemplacemos el cable!
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Saca los tres pies para revelar los tornillos.
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Haz palanca en el pasador que sujeta la rueda del mouse y la carcasa hacia la izquierda.
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Retira la rueda del ratón y la carcasa.
The springs go in the very front, on top of the transparent piece. It was hard for me to figure out the latest time around :)
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Retira los dos tornillos que sujetan la placa de circuito inferior a la placa inferior del mouse.
This screw is a bit tricky during reassembly. A magnetized screwdriver tip did the trick.
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Retira los últimos dos tornillos Phillips cerca de la parte superior del mouse que sujetan las placas de circuito a la placa.
Yes, the transparent piece goes between the boards and needs to be reinserted before the boards are secured to the black bottom case.
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Haz palanca con cuidado en cada lado del conector del mouse hasta que el cable se suelte.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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14 comentarios
Thanks for the guide! Despite being super careful with the springs they managed to flick out when I was screwing the circuit board back in, one was never to be seen again. Thankfully the middle mouse button seems to work fine with just one!
Hi, Phillips #00 Screwdriver didn’t work for me after step8. P00 doesn’t loose those screws, Only its tip is touching to screws, the hole on the screw head is too shallow. Any suggestions?
Alternative tools:
Philips screwdriver, knife and flat screwdriver, magnetic screwdriver tip
You are awsome!
Inside my G500 there's an additional wire soldered between the main PCB and the one that holds the side buttons. It has enough length to allow for disassembly but I did have to take care not to pull on it.
What are the switch model used for the scroll wheel side click buttons (labeled SW7 and SW8) on the board? I want to get them replaced.
Is there a way to fix the cable instead of replacing it?
I used this guide to re-solder the clicker components. My mouse is back to life. Thank you so much!
I will leave a couple notes for who may have other problems like myself.
1. if you rip the zif cable, it’s a standard 10 pin ZIF (sometimes referred to as FLEX) cable, contacts on same side, width 0.5cm, length anything above 6cm will do, I got 10.
2. Clicker components are available on ebay or aliexpress with the model number D2FC-F-7N. Didn’t try dissecting other mouses, the feel just wouldn’t be the same.
Awsome tutorial! Thanks man.
It is a poor design. They should have put a rubber booth on the cable.
pbartkovjak - Contestar