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Introducción

Usa esta guía para remover o reemplazar el botón de encendido en tu iPhone 7. Esta guía es solo para el botón físico y no los interruptores electrónicos por debajo.

Si necesitas reemplazar el cable del botón de control de volumen y de encendido.

  1. Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.4 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone dañará sus sellos impermeables. Ten sellos de reemplazo listos antes de seguir con el próximo paso o ten cuidado de evitar la entrada de líquidos si vuelves a ensamblar tu iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Contestar

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Contestar

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Contestar

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Contestar

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Contestar

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Contestar

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Contestar

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Contestar

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Contestar

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Contestar

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Contestar

  2. Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.

    • Utiliza una pistola de calor o preparar un iOpener y aplicarlo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo debajo.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Contestar

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Contestar

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Contestar

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Contestar

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Contestar

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Contestar

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Contestar

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Contestar

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Contestar

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Contestar

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - Contestar

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - Contestar

    I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.

    Todd Oeftger - Contestar

    I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.

    Kala - Contestar

  3. Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio. Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.
    • Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Contestar

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Contestar

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Contestar

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Contestar

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Contestar

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Contestar

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - Contestar

  4. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco. El adhesivo  que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el  spudger.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco.

    • El adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Contestar

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Contestar

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Contestar

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Contestar

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Contestar

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Contestar

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Contestar

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Contestar

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Contestar

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Contestar

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Contestar

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Contestar

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Contestar

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - Contestar

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - Contestar

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - Contestar

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - Contestar

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - Contestar

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.

    Nick Nave - Contestar

  5. Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.
    • Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Contestar

  6. Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.
    • Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio.

    • No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Contestar

  7. Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera. Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.
    • Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No introduzcas el spudger más allá del adhesivo para evitar dañar los delicados cables de cinta a lo largo del borde derecho.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Contestar

  8. Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone. No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos  a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.
    • Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone.

    • No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Contestar

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Contestar

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Contestar

  9. Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

    very nice

    iPhone 7 back cover

    http://WHITEWINGS.IN/

    Vikash Kumar - Contestar

  10. Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar. Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.
    • Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.

    • Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - Contestar

  11. Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior. Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro. No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Contestar

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Contestar

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Contestar

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Contestar

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Contestar

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Contestar

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Contestar

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Contestar

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Contestar

    Be EXTREMELY careful when you lift up the screen. I broke 3D touch cable, and the home button stopped working. Had to replace the whole display.

    Sizun Cho - Contestar

    Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !

    arnauldjouanny - Contestar

  12. Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.4 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, lleva cuenta de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que cada tornillo vuelva al lugar exacto de donde salió para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Contestar

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Contestar

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Contestar

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Contestar

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Contestar

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Contestar

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Contestar

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Contestar

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Contestar

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Contestar

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Contestar

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Contestar

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Contestar

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Contestar

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Contestar

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Contestar

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Contestar

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Contestar

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Contestar

  13. Retira el soporte del conector inferior.
    • Retira el soporte del conector inferior.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Contestar

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Contestar

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

  14. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Contestar

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Contestar

  15. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso. Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña  para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca  hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica. Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso.

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica.

    • Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.

    • Si tienes un pantalla en blanco, líneas blancas en la pantalla, o no tienes respuesta táctil completa o parcial después de volver a ensamblar tu teléfono, intenta desconectar y reconectar con cuidado ambos cables y asegúrate de que estén encajados completamente.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    minimalist - Contestar

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Contestar

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Contestar

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Contestar

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Contestar

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Contestar

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Contestar

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Contestar

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Contestar

  16. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal. Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto. Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal.

    • Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Contestar

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Contestar

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Contestar

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Contestar

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Contestar

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Contestar

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Contestar

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Contestar

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Contestar

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Contestar

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Contestar

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Contestar

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Contestar

  17. Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica. Este conector a presión  debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.
    • Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica.

    • Este conector a presión debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Contestar

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Contestar

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Contestar

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Inserta una herramienta de extracción de tarjeta SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño orificio en la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM. Presiona para extraer la bandeja. Esto podría requerir una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Sin embargo, asegúrate de que la herramienta de expulsión esté correctamente alineada de antemano para no dañar el mecanismo de expulsión dentro del teléfono.
    • Inserta una herramienta de extracción de tarjeta SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño orificio en la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.

    • Presiona para extraer la bandeja.

    • Esto podría requerir una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Sin embargo, asegúrate de que la herramienta de expulsión esté correctamente alineada de antemano para no dañar el mecanismo de expulsión dentro del teléfono.

    • Remueve la bandeja de tarjeta SIM del iPhone.

    • Cuando vuelvas a insertar la tarjeta SIM, asegúrate de que esté en la orientación adecuada en relación con la bandeja.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Contestar

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - Contestar

    I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

  20. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cámara trasera. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cámara trasera.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cámara trasera.

  21. Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte de cámara trasera a la caja trasera: Un tornillo de 1.3 mm
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte de cámara trasera a la caja trasera:

    • Un tornillo de 1.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.5 mm

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    i removed them with PH000

    Flavien - Contestar

  22. Remueve el soporte.
    • Remueve el soporte.

  23. Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de la línea de antena, justo a la izquierda del módulo de la cámara trasera. Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de la línea de antena, justo a la izquierda del módulo de la cámara trasera.
    • Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de la línea de antena, justo a la izquierda del módulo de la cámara trasera.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Contestar

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - Contestar

  24. Remueve los dos tornillos tri-point de 1.2 mm  que sujetan el soporte superior de cable.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos tri-point de 1.2 mm que sujetan el soporte superior de cable.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - Contestar

    ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

    Flavien - Contestar

    Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

  25. Remueve el soporte de cable superior. Remueve el soporte de cable superior.
    • Remueve el soporte de cable superior.

  26. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector superior de cable. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector superior de cable.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector superior de cable.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - Contestar

  27. Quita los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan la antena de Wi-Fi: Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm.
    • Quita los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan la antena de Wi-Fi:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm.

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Contestar

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Contestar

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Contestar

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Contestar

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Contestar

    Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

    sirthomasnardin -

  28. Remueve la antena izquierda superior. Remueve la antena izquierda superior.
    • Remueve la antena izquierda superior.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Contestar

  29. Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips:

    • Un tornillo de 1.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.2 mm

  30. Remueve el soporte Remueve el soporte
    • Remueve el soporte

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Contestar

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Contestar

  31. Quita el tornillo separador de 2.2 mm del soporte de puesta a tierra.
    • Quita el tornillo separador de 2.2 mm del soporte de puesta a tierra.

    • Los tornillos separadores se quitan mejor utilizando un mango separador o punta.

    • Si no hay más remedio, un destornillador de cabeza plana funcionará—pero usa precaución extra para asegurarte que no se resbale y dañe componentes circundantes.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Contestar

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Contestar

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Contestar

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Contestar

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Contestar

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - Contestar

    I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

    Flavien - Contestar

  32. Usa pinzas para doblar cuidadosamente la placa lógica y apartarla. Usa pinzas para doblar cuidadosamente la placa lógica y apartarla.
    • Usa pinzas para doblar cuidadosamente la placa lógica y apartarla.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Contestar

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Contestar

    Did your phone work ?

    Emin -

    also broken does it work without?

    Emin - Contestar

    for anyone doing this slightly bend it 50 degrees toward the frame of the phone (to the right) ,

    Best of luck

    Jordan Logan - Contestar

  33. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los conectores del cable de antes de sus zócalos en la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los conectores del cable de antes de sus zócalos en la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los conectores del cable de antes de sus zócalos en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los conectores del cable de antes de sus zócalos en la placa lógica.

  34. Usa pinzas para desviar ligeramente los cables de antena del soporte de metal en la placa lógica. Usa pinzas para desviar ligeramente los cables de antena del soporte de metal en la placa lógica. Usa pinzas para desviar ligeramente los cables de antena del soporte de metal en la placa lógica.
    • Usa pinzas para desviar ligeramente los cables de antena del soporte de metal en la placa lógica.

  35. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cable inferior. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cable inferior.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cable inferior.

    Wat voor kabel is dit? Deze is beschadigd bij mijn IPhone 8 Plus

    Maarten - Contestar

  36. Remueve los siguientes tornillos:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 1.4 mm

    • Tres tornillos separadores de 2.2 mm.

    • Los tornillos separadores se remueven mejor utilizando la punta de destornillador de tornillos separador del iPhone y un mango de destornillador.

    • Si no hay otra opción, un pequeño destornillador de cabeza plana funcionará—pero ten precaución extra para asegurarte de que no se resbale y dañe los componentes circundantes.

    Link may be missing or broken!

    Standoff screws are best removed using an [linked product missing or disabled: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    Phrase Neither - Contestar

  37. Usa la punta de un spudger para apartar el tapón de extracción de tarjeta SIM de la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para apartar el tapón de extracción de tarjeta SIM de la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para apartar el tapón de extracción de tarjeta SIM de la placa lógica.

  38. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el extremo del conector de batería con cuidado de la placa lógica. Asegúrate de que no estés jalando contra ningún cable. Si sientes resistencia, verifica todos los cables, conectores y componentes estén fuera de la placa.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el extremo del conector de batería con cuidado de la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de que no estés jalando contra ningún cable. Si sientes resistencia, verifica todos los cables, conectores y componentes estén fuera de la placa.

  39. Levanta el extremo del conector de batería de la placa lógica y remuévelo de la caja trasera. Ten cuidado de que la placa lógica no golpee ningún cable. Ten cuidado de que la placa lógica no golpee ningún cable.
    • Levanta el extremo del conector de batería de la placa lógica y remuévelo de la caja trasera.

    • Ten cuidado de que la placa lógica no golpee ningún cable.

  40. Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips: Dos tornillos de 1.9 mm que sujetan el botón de inicio.
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips:

    • Dos tornillos de 1.9 mm que sujetan el botón de inicio.

    • Dos tornillos de 2.3 mm que sujetan los botones de volumen.

    You need to remove the battery first.

    Jasper Shemilt - Contestar

  41. Remueva los siguientes tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm: Un tornillo al lado de la cámara trasera
    • Remueva los siguientes tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm:

    • Un tornillo al lado de la cámara trasera

    • Un tornillo en la caja trasera.

  42. Desde el exterior del teléfono, presiona el interruptor de retención en la caja trasera con la punta de un spudger. Esta acción liberará el interruptor de retención y la junta de la caja trasera.
    • Desde el exterior del teléfono, presiona el interruptor de retención en la caja trasera con la punta de un spudger.

    • Esta acción liberará el interruptor de retención y la junta de la caja trasera.

  43. Usa una pinza para remover la cámara trasera. Usa una pinza para remover la cámara trasera.
    • Usa una pinza para remover la cámara trasera.

  44. Moviéndote desde el lado del botón de encendido del teléfono, usa una púa de apertura para separar el adhesivo que sujeta el cable flexible de antena a la caja trasera. Moviéndote desde el lado del botón de encendido del teléfono, usa una púa de apertura para separar el adhesivo que sujeta el cable flexible de antena a la caja trasera.
    • Moviéndote desde el lado del botón de encendido del teléfono, usa una púa de apertura para separar el adhesivo que sujeta el cable flexible de antena a la caja trasera.

  45. Desliza la punta de la púa de apertura por debajo del cable flexible de antena hacia la parte superior del teléfono separando el adhesivo restante. Desliza la punta de la púa de apertura por debajo del cable flexible de antena hacia la parte superior del teléfono separando el adhesivo restante.
    • Desliza la punta de la púa de apertura por debajo del cable flexible de antena hacia la parte superior del teléfono separando el adhesivo restante.

  46. Usa pinzas para apartar el cable flexible de antena del borde del teléfono liberando el soporte de tornillo de la caja trasera. Remueve el cable flexible de antena.
    • Usa pinzas para apartar el cable flexible de antena del borde del teléfono liberando el soporte de tornillo de la caja trasera.

    • Remueve el cable flexible de antena.

  47. Remueve el tornillo separador de 2.3 mm que sujeta el soporte de flash a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve el tornillo separador de 2.3 mm que sujeta el soporte de flash a la caja trasera.

    • Los tornillos separadores se remueven mejor utilizando una Punta de Destornillador para iPhone y un mango de destornillador.

    • Si no hay otro remedio, un pequeño destornillador de cabeza plana funcionará para hacer el trabajo—pero ten precaución adicional para asegurarte de que no se resbale y dañe componentes circundantes.

  48. Remueve el soporte de flash. Remueve el soporte de flash.
    • Remueve el soporte de flash.

  49. Usa la punta de un spudger para desencajar con cuidado el módulo de flash. Usa la punta de un spudger para desencajar con cuidado el módulo de flash.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desencajar con cuidado el módulo de flash.

  50. Usa la hoja de un spudger Halberd para separa el adhesivo que sujeta el micrófono a la caja trasera. Usa la hoja de un spudger Halberd para separa el adhesivo que sujeta el micrófono a la caja trasera.
    • Usa la hoja de un spudger Halberd para separa el adhesivo que sujeta el micrófono a la caja trasera.

  51. Con cuidado separa doblando el módulo del botón de encendido del borde de la caja trasera. Con cuidado separa doblando el módulo del botón de encendido del borde de la caja trasera.
    • Con cuidado separa doblando el módulo del botón de encendido del borde de la caja trasera.

  52. Desliza la hoja de un spudger halberd por debajo del extremo del botón de encendido del cable de botón para separarlo del adhesivo en la caja trasera. Continúa separando el adhesivo moviendo la hoja hacia la parte superior del teléfono. Continúa separando el adhesivo moviendo la hoja hacia la parte superior del teléfono.
    • Desliza la hoja de un spudger halberd por debajo del extremo del botón de encendido del cable de botón para separarlo del adhesivo en la caja trasera.

    • Continúa separando el adhesivo moviendo la hoja hacia la parte superior del teléfono.

  53. Continúa moviendo la hoja del halberd spudger por debajo del cable de control de volumen y de encendido. Mueve lentamente para asegurarte de que el cable no esté dañado al removerse. Mueve lentamente para asegurarte de que el cable no esté dañado al removerse.
    • Continúa moviendo la hoja del halberd spudger por debajo del cable de control de volumen y de encendido.

    • Mueve lentamente para asegurarte de que el cable no esté dañado al removerse.

  54. Desliza el spudger halberd debajo de la porción de de control de volumen del cable de botón. Con cuidado desliza la hoja por debajo del cable hacia la parte inferior del teléfono separando el adhesivo restante. Con cuidado desliza la hoja por debajo del cable hacia la parte inferior del teléfono separando el adhesivo restante.
    • Desliza el spudger halberd debajo de la porción de de control de volumen del cable de botón.

    • Con cuidado desliza la hoja por debajo del cable hacia la parte inferior del teléfono separando el adhesivo restante.

  55. Remueve el cable de control de volumen y de encendido.
    • Remueve el cable de control de volumen y de encendido.

    Thank you very much for this guide, I did the job perfectly, without this guide I would not have succeeded.

    Thanks thanks thanks :-)

    agibru - Contestar

  56. Jala el clip hacia la parte inferior del teléfono y  levántalo para liberarlo del soporte. Jala el clip hacia la parte inferior del teléfono y  levántalo para liberarlo del soporte.
    • Jala el clip hacia la parte inferior del teléfono y levántalo para liberarlo del soporte.

  57. Remueve el clip de la caja trasera. Remueve el clip de la caja trasera.
    • Remueve el clip de la caja trasera.

  58. Empuja y saca el gancho que sujeta el extremo inferior del soporte del botón de encendido. Empuja y saca el gancho que sujeta el extremo inferior del soporte del botón de encendido.
    • Empuja y saca el gancho que sujeta el extremo inferior del soporte del botón de encendido.

    Step 89: helps to push the Power/Lock Button in while using the spudger. Otherwise, the bracket may get caught under the rim of the case.

    Mike - Contestar

    good one mike! that helps alot. you need to use a little bit of force to lift up the right hand side ..towards bottom of phone..

    ANDREW -

    In my opinion its better to use a flat ended screw driver as it requires quite a bit of force to get these out. they clip in and clip out. when re attaching listen for the click sound so you know its located well.

    ANDREW - Contestar

    I was having great difficulty on this step with this step with spudgers, flat head screwdrivers, etc. After much struggle I tried hooking the curved end of a Halberd Spudger, and it worked immediately with little effort.

    TL;DR - Hook a Halberd Spudger under the bottom right edge and gently pry.

    Trevor Picard - Contestar

  59. Extrae el soporte de la caja trasera. Extrae el soporte de la caja trasera.
    • Extrae el soporte de la caja trasera.

  60. Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para empujar hacia afuera de la caja trasera la tapa del botón de encendido. Remueve la tapa del botón de encendido.
    • Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para empujar hacia afuera de la caja trasera la tapa del botón de encendido.

    • Remueve la tapa del botón de encendido.

    arrivé jusqu’ici pour nettoyer mon bouton on/off. merci pour ce tutoriel

    Flavien - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Scott Havard

Miembro Desde 27/06/16

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