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Repara tus cosas

Derecho a Reparar

Partes y herramientas

Introducción

Reemplaza el altavoz izquierdo de tu iMac de 27" Late 2012.

  1. Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserta la herramienta de apertura iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera. El centro de la herramienta de apertura iMac evitará que empujes demasiado la rueda. Si utilizas una herramienta diferente, inserta no más de 9.5 mm en la pantalla. Se corre el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves. El centro de la herramienta de apertura iMac evitará que empujes demasiado la rueda. Si utilizas una herramienta diferente, inserta no más de 9.5 mm en la pantalla. Se corre el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.
    • Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserta la herramienta de apertura iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera.

    • El centro de la herramienta de apertura iMac evitará que empujes demasiado la rueda. Si utilizas una herramienta diferente, inserta no más de 9.5 mm en la pantalla. Se corre el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Contestar

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Contestar

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Contestar

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Contestar

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Contestar

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Contestar

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Contestar

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - Contestar

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - Contestar

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - Contestar

  2. Use la herramienta como un cortador de pizza: gírelo a lo largo del espacio y cortará el adhesivo de espuma a través del centro. Asegúrese de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tira, la rueda podría salirse del mango. Ejecute la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.
    • Use la herramienta como un cortador de pizza: gírelo a lo largo del espacio y cortará el adhesivo de espuma a través del centro.

    • Asegúrese de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tira, la rueda podría salirse del mango.

    • Ejecute la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Contestar

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - Contestar

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Contestar

  3. Continúe girando la herramienta hacia arriba en la esquina superior izquierda. Continúe girando la herramienta hacia arriba en la esquina superior izquierda. Continúe girando la herramienta hacia arriba en la esquina superior izquierda.
    • Continúe girando la herramienta hacia arriba en la esquina superior izquierda.

  4. Corte el adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla. Corte el adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
    • Corte el adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Contestar

  5. Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla. Es posible que desee ejecutar la herramienta hacia adelante y hacia atrás a través de lo que ya ha cortado un par de veces, para asegurarse de obtener la mayor cantidad de adhesivo separado como sea posible.
    • Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla.

    • Es posible que desee ejecutar la herramienta hacia adelante y hacia atrás a través de lo que ya ha cortado un par de veces, para asegurarse de obtener la mayor cantidad de adhesivo separado como sea posible.

  6. Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla. Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla. Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.
    • Empuje la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.

  7. Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla. Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.
    • Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.

  8. Finalice empujando la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla. En este punto, querrá volver a ejecutar la herramienta en toda la pantalla para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.
    • Finalice empujando la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla.

    • En este punto, querrá volver a ejecutar la herramienta en toda la pantalla para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.

  9. Si bien la herramienta de apertura hizo la mayor parte del trabajo, la pantalla aún se adherirá ligeramente a la carcasa. Se necesitará una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último adhesivo. Coloca el iMac boca arriba en una mesa. Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, inserta una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.
    • Si bien la herramienta de apertura hizo la mayor parte del trabajo, la pantalla aún se adherirá ligeramente a la carcasa. Se necesitará una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último adhesivo.

    • Coloca el iMac boca arriba en una mesa.

    • Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, inserta una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Ten cuidado de no insertarlo más de 9.5 mm o podrías dañar los componentes internos.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Contestar

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Contestar

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Contestar

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Contestar

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - Contestar

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - Contestar

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - Contestar

  10. Gira suavemente la tarjeta de plástico para abrir el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco, y corta cualquier resto de adhesivo en la esquina. Si usas demasiada fuerza, romperás el cristal. Trabaja con cuidado, y no intentes hacer un espacio de más de 6 mm.
    • Gira suavemente la tarjeta de plástico para abrir el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco, y corta cualquier resto de adhesivo en la esquina.

    • Si usas demasiada fuerza, romperás el cristal. Trabaja con cuidado, y no intentes hacer un espacio de más de 6 mm.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Contestar

  11. Kits para Nintendo Switch

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Kits para Nintendo Switch

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  12. Asegúrese de detener el corte antes de la cámara iSight en este paso, o puede dañarlo. Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo restante. Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo restante.
    • Asegúrese de detener el corte antes de la cámara iSight en este paso, o puede dañarlo.

    • Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo restante.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Contestar

  13. Vuelva a colocar la tarjeta en la esquina y déjela allí para evitar que se reubique el adhesivo. Vuelva a colocar la tarjeta en la esquina y déjela allí para evitar que se reubique el adhesivo.
    • Vuelva a colocar la tarjeta en la esquina y déjela allí para evitar que se reubique el adhesivo.

  14. inserte una segunda tarjeta en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco en la esquina superior izquierda. inserte una segunda tarjeta en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco en la esquina superior izquierda. inserte una segunda tarjeta en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco en la esquina superior izquierda.
    • inserte una segunda tarjeta en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco en la esquina superior izquierda.

  15. Gire suavemente la tarjeta, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco. Al igual que con el otro lado, muévase lentamente para permitir que se rompa el adhesivo, y tenga cuidado de no sobre tensar el cristal de la pantalla.
    • Gire suavemente la tarjeta, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Al igual que con el otro lado, muévase lentamente para permitir que se rompa el adhesivo, y tenga cuidado de no sobre tensar el cristal de la pantalla.

  16. Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight. Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight. Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight.
    • Deslice la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose de nuevo justo antes de la cámara iSight.

  17. Inserta la tarjeta nuevamente en la esquina superior izquierda. Inserta la tarjeta nuevamente en la esquina superior izquierda.
    • Inserta la tarjeta nuevamente en la esquina superior izquierda.

  18. Solo levante la pantalla unas pulgadas; todavía está conectada al iMac mediante cables de datos y alimentación. Con las tarjetas insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gire suavemente las tarjetas para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa. Si hay secciones que parecen pegarse y no se separan, deje de girar y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo en el área problemática.
    • Solo levante la pantalla unas pulgadas; todavía está conectada al iMac mediante cables de datos y alimentación.

    • Con las tarjetas insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gire suavemente las tarjetas para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa.

    • Si hay secciones que parecen pegarse y no se separan, deje de girar y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo en el área problemática.

    • Comience a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla desde el marco.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Contestar

  19. Mientras sostiene la pantalla con una mano, use la otra para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla. Levante la pantalla lo suficiente para tener un acceso fácil a las conexiones, pero no tanto que estire los cables y acentúe sus conexiones (aproximadamente 8 ").
    • Mientras sostiene la pantalla con una mano, use la otra para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla.

    • Levante la pantalla lo suficiente para tener un acceso fácil a las conexiones, pero no tanto que estire los cables y acentúe sus conexiones (aproximadamente 8 ").

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Contestar

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Contestar

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Contestar

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Contestar

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - Contestar

  20. Levante el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla. Desconecte el cable de datos de la pantalla. Esta es una conexión delicada que se puede romper fácilmente. Asegúrese de sacar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo, hacia la parte superior del iMac.
    • Levante el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.

    • Desconecte el cable de datos de la pantalla.

    • Esta es una conexión delicada que se puede romper fácilmente. Asegúrese de sacar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo, hacia la parte superior del iMac.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Contestar

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Contestar

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Contestar

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Contestar

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Contestar

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Contestar

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - Contestar

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - Contestar

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Contestar

  21. Levante la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical. En este punto, todavía hay una tira de adhesivo en la parte inferior de la pantalla, que mantendrá la pantalla en el marco como una bisagra. Puede aflojar este adhesivo al subir y bajar la pantalla varias veces.
    • Levante la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical.

    • En este punto, todavía hay una tira de adhesivo en la parte inferior de la pantalla, que mantendrá la pantalla en el marco como una bisagra. Puede aflojar este adhesivo al subir y bajar la pantalla varias veces.

    • Retire la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible agarrándolo por los bordes exteriores, y luego tirando o rodando hacia el centro.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Contestar

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Contestar

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Contestar

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Contestar

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Contestar

  22. Si es necesario, se puede usar una tarjeta de plástico para cortar las secciones restantes de la tira adhesiva inferior. Tenga mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador ni las juntas de soldadura expuestas en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación (enmarcadas en rojo). Tenga mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador ni las juntas de soldadura expuestas en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación (enmarcadas en rojo).
    • Si es necesario, se puede usar una tarjeta de plástico para cortar las secciones restantes de la tira adhesiva inferior.

    • Tenga mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador ni las juntas de soldadura expuestas en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación (enmarcadas en rojo).

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Contestar

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Contestar

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Contestar

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Contestar

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Contestar

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Contestar

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - Contestar

  23. Ten mucho cuidado al manipular la pantalla: es grande, pesada y está hecha de vidrio. Además, tiene bordes frágiles. Evita levantar la pantalla por las esquinas. Levanta la pantalla del marco y retírela del iMac. Coloca la pantalla hacia abajo en una superficie plana y suave. Podría ser necesario levantar lentamente de un lado, para poder eliminar el adhesivo restante.
    • Ten mucho cuidado al manipular la pantalla: es grande, pesada y está hecha de vidrio. Además, tiene bordes frágiles. Evita levantar la pantalla por las esquinas.

    • Levanta la pantalla del marco y retírela del iMac. Coloca la pantalla hacia abajo en una superficie plana y suave.

    • Podría ser necesario levantar lentamente de un lado, para poder eliminar el adhesivo restante.

    • Después de haber cortado el adhesivo, no podrás reutilizarlo para volver a sellar la pantalla en su posición original. Sigue esta guía al completar su reparación para remplazar las tiras de adhesivo que podrán asegurar la pantalla de nuevo a la carcasa trasera.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - Contestar

  24. Si estás remplazando la pantalla, puede ser que necesites transferir más componentes desde el panel antiguo al nuevo. Compara la parte trasera de la pantalla antigua y la nueva pantalla. Anota qué cables, sensores y cojines de acolchamiento no están presentes en la nueva pantalla.
    • Si estás remplazando la pantalla, puede ser que necesites transferir más componentes desde el panel antiguo al nuevo. Compara la parte trasera de la pantalla antigua y la nueva pantalla. Anota qué cables, sensores y cojines de acolchamiento no están presentes en la nueva pantalla.

    • Si hay un alambre o cable debajo de una cinta adhesiva, siempre separa la cinta primero.

    • Si el cable está pegado a la estructura, usa un iOpener calentado o un secador de pelo primero para soltar el adhesivo. Entonces podrás introducir una púa de apertura por debajo del cable para aflojarlo. Nunca tires directamente de los conectores delicados.

    • Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo de los cojines de acolchamiento para separarlos de la pantalla, y tira de ellos con cuidado. Podrías necesitar algo de cinta de doble cara para unirlos a la nueva pantalla.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Contestar

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Contestar

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Contestar

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Contestar

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - Contestar

    • Con la bisagra libre para moverse, el iMac estará desequilibrado y difícil de trabajar. Las reparaciones se pueden completar con el iMac, pero son más rápidas y fáciles con una cuña de servicio iMac.

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - Contestar

    La traduction française est tronquée : “…plus faciles avec une cale de maintien pour iMac”

    (https://eustore.ifixit.com/fr/Outils/Org...)

    Pierre-Aurélien - Contestar

  25. Quita los dos tornillos T10 de 10.0mm.
    • Quita los dos tornillos T10 de 10.0mm.

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - Contestar

  26. Desconecta el cable del altavoz izquierdo de su zócalo en la placa base. Asegúrate de tirar hacia arriba paralelo al zócalo. Retire el cable a través del espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base. Si el espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base es demasiado estrecho para el cable del altavoz, desconéctalo y déjalo donde está.
    • Desconecta el cable del altavoz izquierdo de su zócalo en la placa base. Asegúrate de tirar hacia arriba paralelo al zócalo.

    • Retire el cable a través del espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base.

    • Si el espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base es demasiado estrecho para el cable del altavoz, desconéctalo y déjalo donde está.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Contestar

  27. Ten cuidado con no tocar ninguna de las soldaduras de la parte trasera de la fuente de alimentación. Los condensadores podrían contener suficiente corriente como para darte una descarga peligrosa. Usa un spudger para desconectar la conexión del botón de encendido de su ranura en la placa base. Usa un spudger para desconectar la conexión del botón de encendido de su ranura en la placa base.
    • Ten cuidado con no tocar ninguna de las soldaduras de la parte trasera de la fuente de alimentación. Los condensadores podrían contener suficiente corriente como para darte una descarga peligrosa.

    • Usa un spudger para desconectar la conexión del botón de encendido de su ranura en la placa base.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Contestar

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Contestar

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Contestar

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - Contestar

  28. Levanta el altavoz izquierdo, hasta que puedas ver el cable del botón de encendido (unas 0.5 pulgadas/1.2 cm). Levanta el altavoz izquierdo, hasta que puedas ver el cable del botón de encendido (unas 0.5 pulgadas/1.2 cm).
    • Levanta el altavoz izquierdo, hasta que puedas ver el cable del botón de encendido (unas 0.5 pulgadas/1.2 cm).

  29. Desconecta con cuidado el cable del botón de encendido de su muesca en el altavoz izquierdo. Desconecta con cuidado el cable del botón de encendido de su muesca en el altavoz izquierdo. Desconecta con cuidado el cable del botón de encendido de su muesca en el altavoz izquierdo.
    • Desconecta con cuidado el cable del botón de encendido de su muesca en el altavoz izquierdo.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - Contestar

  30. Levanta el altavoz izquierdo y sepáralo del iMac. Si el espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base era demasiado estrecho para que el altavoz pudiera separarse, empuja con cuidado mientras lo separas. Empuja desde el terminal del conector, a la vez que tiras desde el terminal del altavoz, para ajustar el cable bajo la ranura de sujeción correcta del disco duro.
    • Levanta el altavoz izquierdo y sepáralo del iMac.

    • Si el espacio entre el disco duro y la placa base era demasiado estrecho para que el altavoz pudiera separarse, empuja con cuidado mientras lo separas.

    • Empuja desde el terminal del conector, a la vez que tiras desde el terminal del altavoz, para ajustar el cable bajo la ranura de sujeción correcta del disco duro.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Contestar

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso y usa nuestra guía de tiras adhesivas para volver a colocar el cristal de la pantalla.

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Hello Andrew, I've a question about iMac's Leg.

The form are same like 2011?

I would to try select (previously buy) the 2011 and replace at my iMac 2012.

impart - Contestar

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