Saltar al contenido principal

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar el altavoz derecho.

Esta guía es para el altavoz derecho de tu notebook cuando funciona normalmente, durante la mayor parte de esta guía estará a la izquierda, ya que tu laptop estará al revés.

  1. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015., Parte inferior de la carcasa: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Contestar

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Contestar

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Contestar

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Contestar

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Contestar

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Contestar

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Contestar

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Contestar

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - Contestar

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - Contestar

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - Contestar

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Contestar

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Contestar

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Contestar

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Contestar

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015., Conector de Batería: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Contestar

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Contestar

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Contestar

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Contestar

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Contestar

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Contestar

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Contestar

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - Contestar

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - Contestar

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Contestar

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015., Altavoz derecho: paso 7, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015., Altavoz derecho: paso 7, imagen 2 de 2
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2.1 mm que sujetan el extremo de la placa lógica del soporte del cable de placa de E/S.

    • Remueve el soporte del cable de la placa E/S

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - Contestar

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa el extremo plano del spudger para sacar el conector de placa de E/S directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de sacarlo del cable de placa de E/S y no del enchufe porque corres el riesgo de dañar tu placa lógica.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - Contestar

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - Contestar

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - Contestar

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - Contestar

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - Contestar

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 9, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 9, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta el extremo de la placa lógica del cable de placa de E/S para plegarlo y sacarlo del medio.

    • Para evitar dañar el cable, dobla solo en el pliegue del extremo del cable de placa de E/S.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Contestar

  10. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - Contestar

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - Contestar

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Contestar

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - Contestar

  11. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - Contestar

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 13, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 13, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz derecho de MacBook Pro 13" con Pantalla De Retina Principios de 2015.: paso 13, imagen 3 de 3
    • Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - Contestar

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

53 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

en es

100%

¡ Mariana Roca nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Community

141 Miembros

15,073 Guías creadas

4 comentarios

my Speaker tone … can i stitch it ?

Mr Jay - Contestar

Il ne faut surement pas plier la nappe de la carte E/S mais dévisser son support afin de ne pas l’endommager. Une fois pliée, elle ne reviendra jamais parfaitement droite. Il y a deux petites vis qui maintiennent le support qu’il faut dévisser, à moins qu’il y ait encore quelque chose de caché !

Yves Cirotteau - Contestar

why do I need to disconnect the battery in order to replace the speaker?

Ohad S - Contestar

It is best to always disconnect power from any device you’re working on. Worst case scenario you lay a screw driver down on the device or drop a conductive piece of metal somewhere into the case and it shorts out the board you’re working on. This is the safest way to do repairs.

Elliott Fix -

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 horas: 22

Ultimos 7 días: 211

Ultimos 30 días: 1,001

Todo El Tiempo: 53,654