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Introducción
Para quitar la pantalla es necesario cortar el adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla. Una vez cortado el adhesivo, no se puede utilizar para volver a sellar la pantalla en su lugar, por lo que tendrá que aplicar un nuevo conjunto de tiras adhesivas.
Esta guía muestra cómo sustituir las tiras adhesivas de la mayoría de los iMacs de Intel de 21,5 pulgadas. Algunas imágenes de esta guía utilizan un iMac más antiguo, que tiene diferencias visuales menores. Estas diferencias no afectan al procedimiento de reparación.
Qué necesitas
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Con la bisagra libre para moverse, la iMac estará desequilibrada y será difícil trabajar en ella. Coloca una cuña de servicio en el soporte para estabilizar la iMac.
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Si vas a reutilizar su pantalla existente, también debe retirar el adhesivo antiguo de la parte posterior de la pantalla.
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Retira las viejas tiras de adhesivo con pinzas o con los dedos. Empieza por la parte inferior y despegue hacia arriba, hacia la parte superior del dispositivo.
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Después de retirar todo el adhesivo viejo, limpie cuidadosamente los restos de adhesivo con alcohol isopropílico de alta concentración (90% o más) y un paño sin pelusas. Limpia en una dirección, no de un lado a otro.
The aluminum frame have a plastic zone. Could the isopropyl alcohol damage the plastic surface?
Hello! Isopropyl alcohol should not damage the plastic surface.
It’s not clear if you’re supposed to remove the black strips under the adhesives from the screen. Sometimes they come off when removing the main adhesives, but they seem to be two separate layers.
Only the adhesive should be removed—the black strips underneath them should stay in place.
“Only the adhesive should be removed—the black strips underneath them should stay in place.”
By fault I’ve removed the black strips, now there is a gap between the glass and the aluminum frame in the bottom.
the display is perfectly pasted, it’s only a matter of appearance…
If I open the computer again, what kind of adhesive tape (caption tape?) could I use to eliminate the gap between the glass and the frame?
Or it’s better to let it go…
Thanks for your support
Hi Massimiliano ,
You should be fine. The bottom edge doesn’t have black strips. It should be bare metal. However, there shouldn’t be any gaps between the glass and the frame. Make sure that the adhesive is fully adhered on the bottom edge.
Hi Arthur,
my English is not perfect…
I would mean that I removed all the black strips under the adhesives on the screen; so I believe that the glass has become too thin compared to the bottom aluminium frame.
I thought to open the Mac again and put some black strips to increase the thickness of the glass screen but I don’t know what kind of tape I should use (Kapton or other?).
And then I will put a new set of ifixit adhesives strips.
Maybe it’s a waste of time… it’ s only an aesthetic matter
Thanks again
Thanks for the clarification. Since there is always a chance to crack the screen glass when cutting the adhesive, I’d suggest not to open up the iMac again. However, if you do open it, I suggest using Tesa tape.
Thanks Arthur,
I will follow your suggestion… I will not open again my computer…
Now it works very well and fast.
So, the bit about the adhesive strips really needs to be clarified. Nowhere in the instructions is there talk about multiple layers of adhesive, one that should be removed and one that should remain. And looking at the pictures further on, clearly the wider sections where the adhesive go are completely clean of any black strips. However, on the screen side, I’ve noted that indeed there are two layers, at least on the top. And removing both layers leads to the adhesive *not* really taking hold and the screens falling out. Really wish this had been clearer. I’ve helped dozens of people upgrade their iMac but after the first time that I had to replace a screen due to it falling and breaking, I’ve been using clear strong adhesive tape externally on the corners to ensure that the screen stays in place. Ugly, but better than the risk.
I too started removing the second layer of adhesive strips before reading these comments. PLEASE update the article to reflect that the other black strips should stay!
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Si tu tira 4R no tiene una muesca, sigue esta guía en su lugar.
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Coloca las tiras adhesivas de antemano para que no instales accidentalmente una tira en el lugar equivocado:
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Tira 01 en la parte izquierda superior
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Tira 02 en la parte superior derecha
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Tira 03 en la parte vertical derecha
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Tira 4R en la parte inferior derecha, la parte oscura hacia arriba.
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Tira 4L en la parte inferior derecha , parte oscura hacia arriba.
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Tira 05 en la parte vertical izquierda.
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Empieza con la franja 03, que va en el lado vertical derecho del recinto trasero.
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Agarra la lengüeta azul y quita el trozo corto de la parte trasera de la tira para exponer una sección de adhesivo que se pegará a la carcasa.
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Inserta la punta de un spudger en el agujero del final de la tira donde acaba de quitar una capa de soporte. Inserte el spudger desde el lado que aún tiene una capa de respaldo blanco.
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Con el spudger todavía metiendo la punta en el agujero de la tira adhesiva, empuja la punta del spudger en el agujero correspondiente del marco del iMac.
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Usando el agujero y el spudger para anclar la posición de la tira adhesiva, alinea la tira contra el borde derecho, tirando suavemente hacia arriba contra el spudger para asegurarse de que la tira esté tensa, y péguela al marco.
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Trabaja en sentido contrario a las agujas del reloj alrededor del perímetro del iMac, añadiendo tres tiras adhesivas más de la misma manera:
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Tira 02 en la parte superior derecha
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Tira 01 en la parte superior inferior
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Tira 05 en la parte vertical izquierda
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Agarra la lengüeta roja de la tira 4R y tira para separar unos 5 cm (2 pulgadas) de respaldo blanco de la tira.
These steps instruct you to install the lower strips to the iMac frame first, as that is what Apple instructs their techs to do. If you have an iMac without a microphone hole, you can choose to install the lower strips onto the display first. Peel the blue tab instead of the red to expose the adhesive. Carefully place the adhesive along the bottom edge of the display. The L-bend on the adhesive should match the display contours.
i have no microphone hole - which is good . . . because the 4R and 4L stips must be labelled incorrectly as the L’s are on the wrong side. Also the strips don’t completely cover the bottom. And there are no holes in these strips making placement less secure. Someone certainly goofed. (Reckon I’ll use snipped off L’s to cover the open space.
Ah, the L strips don’t overlap - so they’re long enuf, but they are still reversed.
Die Löcher in den Klebestreifen passen nicht (mehr) zu den Löchern im Rahmen. Ich habe mich an den breiten Stellen orientiert und die Klebestreifen daran ausgerichtet. Das ging besser.
The holes in the adhesive strips no longer match the holes in the frame. I oriented myself towards the wide areas and aligned the adhesive strips with them. That worked better.
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Alinea la tira adhesiva con el borde inferior colocando la muesca del micrófono sobre el agujero del micrófono.
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Si tu iMac no tiene un orificio para el micrófono, alinea el extremo derecho de la tira de forma que la curva en L quede junto al adhesivo vertical derecho. La curva en L no debe superponerse al adhesivo vertical derecho.
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Una vez que hayas alineado la tira, coloca con cuidado el borde izquierdo expuesto en la iMac para asegurar la alineación.
The strips that I received from OWC do not have a notch cut out for the microphone. The instructions advise you, for 2017 and later 21.5” iMacs, to cut about 2 inches off from the left side of the strip so you do not cover the microphone hole.
As far as the remaining 2 inches I cut off, I snipped off a little more on the right side to leave a small gap for the microphone and placed that small remaining part in the center where it should have been if there was no microphone, just to complete the adhesive.
I have done quite a few of these now. It is easier to apply the bottom strips to the Display, rather than the housing. With the Red tabs folded at 90 degrees to the adhesive. You can then remove these tabs with the display kind in place, secured by painters tape on the out side before closing it up.
Don't make the mistake i just did - if you want to cut a notch, cut the BOTTOM 2/3rds section of the strip, not the top! :P
Also, here's a some pics of the mic location in the 2017 retina version from iFIXit: Muffled Microphone - iMac 21.5" (mid 2017) - Following Adhesive Strips.
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Coloca suavemente la pantalla sobre el iMac y alinéala con cuidado.
In my experience, it is easier to lay the Mac flat on its back, especially if you do not have a wedge, because the display will tilt up and down and you do not want that happening. With the Mac on its back, I removed all the front adhesive strips and then angled the display (not a big angle) against the chin making sure it was even on both sides. Then reconnect the video cables and gently bring the display down into the proper position. Step 23 below seems too much of a hassle to try and get the bottom adhesive strips out while the display is resting on them, and taping the bottom of the display in Step 19 also seems to be a hassle.
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Utiliza cinta de pintor o cinta adhesiva para fijar temporalmente el borde inferior de la pantalla al recinto del iMac.
Noooo!! I followed this step and promptly cracked my screen!!!! You need to be extremely careful NOT to wrap the tape around the back of the computer. These images make it look like it's wrapped around, but if you do that, you won't be able to lift the screen at all to attach the display cables. Why?!!!!!
Oh no! I'm so sorry to hear this! Thank you for sharing your experience—I'm going to add a warning into the step.
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Inserta el cable de encendido de pantalla en su zócalo en la placa lógica.
I am powering the unit back up to test all is working. Screen is black but fan is running loud. I’ve decoupled the power and confirmed both the display cables are connected. Note - I replaced both the HDD with a SSD as well as upgraded the RAM from 8GB to 16GB.
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Utiliza un par de pinzas o su otra mano para insertar suavemente el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla en su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Asegura el soporte metálico de retención del cable de datos de la pantalla hacia abajo, en dirección a la placa lógica.
While the previous step refers to “cables,” plural, this step suggests that only the display cable needs to be reinstalled in order to test working order. In my experience (iMac 21-1/2" Retina 4K Display, late 2015), I found that I had to also reconnect the camera/microphone cable in order for the screen to work. [6/7/21]
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Vuelve a colocar la pantalla en la parte trasera de la iMac.
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En este momento, enchufa tu iMac, enciéndelo y prueba tu reparación antes de pasar a sellar la computadora. Asegúrate de comprobar la total funcionalidad de cualquier hardware que hayas quitado o desconectado.
At this point I tested everything to make sure it worked, including the microphone. It was a bit muffled so I poked it with a pin to try and clear it. This was incredibly stupid because (a) the muffling was due to the backing which I was about to remove from the strip (b) poking with a pin broke the microphone.
I’m not going to buy a new microphone (£72 apparently) and a new set of strips, so I’ll get an external USB microphone instead.
But to anyone else, if the microphone sound is muffled, don’t worry!
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Después de confirmar que tu iMac funciona correctamente, desconecta los cables de la pantalla e inclina cuidadosamente la pantalla hacia adelante.
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Retira la película de las dos tiras inferiores, metiendo la mano desde arriba con un par de pinzas y tirando de las lengüetas azules hacia arriba desde el borde inferior de la pantalla.
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Reconecta los cables de datos y encendido de pantalla por última vez.
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Con una mano, sujeta la pantalla mientras retiras la película protectora en los siguientes pasos o la apoyas ligeramente contra la carcasa de la iMac.
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Para asegurar una unión fuerte, inclina cuidadosamente la iMac de espaldas (con la pantalla hacia arriba) y presiona con cuidado pero con firmeza alrededor de los cuatro bordes de la pantalla.
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Remueve la cinta que sujeta la pantalla al recinto trasero.
Yo lo pongo sobre una manta con la pantalla apoyada sobre la manta.Pongo trapos o papel de cocina doblado alrededor de la pantalla y lo sujeto con pinzas de tender ropa.Lo dejo así 24 horas y queda perfecto. Saludos y gracias por el tutorial.
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6 comentarios
Used this guide and the official iFixit strips and everything worked great, until about 6 months later when the screen fell out. I had cleaned off all dust and checked the screen 24 hours later as recommended. Is there anything I could have done better? When I reattach it with new strips I’m going to lay it upward with light pressure around the edges for 24 hours.
I’m sorry to hear that! If you can, please contact our customer support and give them some details on where the adhesive gave out. It may have been defective strips—they can get you sorted out if that’s the case!
In the final stage of removing the numbered tab, the blue tab for the lower portion of strip 3 cam off before revealing any of the white release film. Do you have any tips on how to remove it once it’s stuck everywhere else or is it a case of just leaving it.
Hey Adam! You can try inserting a needle or the point of a pair of tweezers underneath the white liner. You may be able to loosen the liner enough to grasp and remove it. Otherwise, if it's a small portion, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
Worked perfectly. Great kit, loved the Haribo. Fantastic guys.