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Introducción

Sigue esta guía para remover o reemplazar la tapa trasera de cristal para el Pixel 3. Este procedimiento es necesario para acceder a la parte interna del Pixel.

Necesitarás cinta adhesiva de doble cara (como esta de Tesa) para adherir los componentes transferidos.

  1. Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo a la parte inferior del teléfono durante un minuto. Al hacer palanca por encima del botón de encendido, ten cuidado de no insertar la púa demasiado o dañarás el cable del sensor de huella digital.
    • Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo a la parte inferior del teléfono durante un minuto.

    • Al hacer palanca por encima del botón de encendido, ten cuidado de no insertar la púa demasiado o dañarás el cable del sensor de huella digital.

    Older devices may require 2 or more minutes with a very hot iOpener. Also note, the photo shows the opener on the FRONT of the phone. The heat needs to be applied to the back of the device!

    Rick Johnson - Contestar

    I just realized that I was trying to pry apart the front of my Pixel 3… and have separated the class from the display. ??‍♂️ Even though the rest of the directions show the back, it would be nice for the first picture to also show the back, just to be safe.

    JR Raith -

    Agreed, I’ve done exactly the same and completely broken my display. I probably should’ve paid more attention to the initial steps before diving in but the step could do with a new picture for sure.

    Daniel Fryer -

    Thanks for the comments! I’ll add a note in the step warning people to make sure to pry the back cover, not the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

    I prefer my favorite opening method with something like this. Dental floss. So thin it can slide in the gap. A little sawing to get it far enough past the edge to lift and get the first pick in.

    John Hoffstetter - Contestar

  2. Aplica una ventosa en el borde inferior caliente de la cubierta trasera. Asegura que ni confundiste el lado de la pantalla por el lado de la cubierta trasera. Si tu tapa trasera está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalaje transparente puede permitir que la ventosa se adhiera.
    • Aplica una ventosa en el borde inferior caliente de la cubierta trasera.

    • Asegura que ni confundiste el lado de la pantalla por el lado de la cubierta trasera.

    • Si tu tapa trasera está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalaje transparente puede permitir que la ventosa se adhiera.

    • Levanta la ventosa con una fuerza fuerte y constante para crear un espacio.

    • Dependiendo de cuán gastado está tu teléfono, esto puede tomar mucha fuerza. Si tienes problemas, aplica más calor y vuelve a intentarlo.

    • Inserta una púa de apertura en la grieta.

    The initial opening/insert is the hardest part of this repair, and if you end up having to use a flat-head screwdriver (etc) to get the first gap opened, you’ll scratch the phone. But it works.

    William Kew - Contestar

    I don’t recommend using a screwdriver. I tried this and it shattered the glass in that area. I replaced the battery on my Pixel 1 recently and noted that heating the FRONT glass on that phone enough to get a gap for one of the pics takes a considerable amount of time AND patience. I was one of the few who didn’t break or otherwise damage the glass in that process. I would say the same rule applies here. Allow for significant time and patiences to heat the old adhesive enough to get a pick inside the cover.

    kevlion88 - Contestar

    Definitely, this opening/insert is the hardest part of the procedure. I was unable to open even a slight separation with a suction cup and even with tons of heat from a hair dryer. What worked really well, and what I would highly recommend to others who experience really strong adhesive, is to use a small X-acto knife with a #16 blade. Make sure it’s a #16 (find on Amazon) because it differs greatly in angle and rigidity from the usual #11 blade. The sharpness of the blade makes it really easy to find the crack and open a gap, where you can then insert a pick with no problem.

    Andris Vizulis - Contestar

    I gave up with the iOpener and pick, I tried >5 times for over an hour… After heating with theiOpener, I used and X-acto knife instead and that worked like a charm, except it did leave a few scuff marks unfortunatly. I used a size 22 blade.

    Manny - Contestar

    I really wanted to level off the back of the phone when pulling on the suction cup in this step, but found it was actually pretty easy once I used the opening tool to push down on the edge of the bezel, at the crack, barely putting any force on the back of the phone at all (just to keep it steady).

    Eugene Creswick - Contestar

    I have about a 2 year old Pixel 3. iOpener didn’t work at all on this step, but once I broke out the hair dryer, I was able to get the phone hot enough to insert the pick (no screwdriver or xacto knife needed)

    sliverdragon37 - Contestar

    I’m having trouble with the iOpener too. It is frustrating because I practiced on a bricked iPhone earlier this week and it was effortless. My Pixel 3 is also about 2 years old. Out of curiosity, were you replacing the charging assembly because of the charging cables fitting too loosely on the phone or for some other reason?

    Edwin -

    I used a stanley knive to get started and then a combo of opener and plektrums.

    All went well till I used to much force on the camera corner and broke the back into lots of small pieces. Be careful on that corner, people.

    But the new camera does focus, so for a first attempt at fixing a phone I am happy.

    clas ebeling - Contestar

    I heated the bottom up with the Iopener and then used a rectangular razor blade and the suction cup to lift the bottom. Place the entire blade edge into the crack and push/pry while lifting with the suction cup. As soon as you have a gap start to open, have a second person insert a pick into the corner. It was actually really easy. I had given up after a couple of tries without a blade. My Pixel 3 is 2 years old.

    Jeremy Stewart - Contestar

    Agreed with many other comments here. My Pixel 3 is two years old and neither the iopener nor a blow dryer were capable of loosening it enough. I ended up using a VERY hot iopener for a couple of minutes, the suction cup, and then a wide-bladed razer blade (about 80% width of bottom edge to spread out the stress and prevent risk of fracturing the rear glass panel). Once adding the razer blade I was able to get the pick in and follow the rest of the instructions as written.

    Matt Johnson - Contestar

    I also had to follow this process but resorted to a heat gun on its lowest setting as I couldn’t get the iOpener hot enough (I was afraid of overheating and bursting it). Other how-to videos also show using a thin piece of plastic or metal to slide into the corner, saving substantial time.

    Rick Johnson -

    So I didn’t use a blade, but I did get my fingernail in before the plectrum haha. Happened by accident as I was trying to push down on the bezel to counter the suction cup force.

    I also heated the sides and corners as well as the bottom, which may have helped it budge.

    Dmitriy - Contestar

    Helped me to notice that the focus here is to lift in the center (like right over the USB C connector). Was able to get it with just the iOpener and pushing down on the rest of the phone with the pry tool. My phone is over 2 years old though and it took about 50 minutes of working / reheating / repeating

    Tim Noack - Contestar

    Destroyed the glass back trying to take it off. This is not an easy phone to take apart.

    Andrew Richie - Contestar

    It would be nice if there was a heads up that the rear of the phone is glass….. Phone piping hot glass shattered and splintered

    John Gates - Contestar

    The Jimmy tool from the iFixit toolkit worked like a freakin’ charm. Took me 10 mins to open the phone and it came out unscathed.

    adrianpauly - Contestar

    I used dental floss to cut the adhesive and slide it open. Just wiggle it back and forth from the corners until you cut enough that you can switch to a pick. Helps to have a extra hand to hold the phone.

    Javier Sullivan - Contestar

    Brother, dental floss was an absolute godsend!!! After 4 hours with the IOpener and attempting to use a heat gun which I balked from out of fear I came across this comment. Teased it around a corner and was then able to saw away at the adhesive. A lot of patience but no heat or potentially damaging tools needed. Thanks!

    Elijah Wilcox -

  3. Desliza el adhesivo a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono y alrededor de la esquina derecha. Mantén la púa en el borde inferior para prevenir que el adhesivo se vuelva a adherir. Mantén la púa en el borde inferior para prevenir que el adhesivo se vuelva a adherir.
    • Desliza el adhesivo a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono y alrededor de la esquina derecha.

    • Mantén la púa en el borde inferior para prevenir que el adhesivo se vuelva a adherir.

    The back cover is glass! I was sure it was some kind of nice plastic. It's probably obvious to a lot of people, and it's very obvious in hindsight, after shattering it. But I'm writing this in case anyone else is oblivious to the last decade of smartphone design. I got impatient and flexed it out as I cut the glue. Don't do that. Carefully work your way around and avoid applying any significany bending forces to the cover.

    Dharman Gersch - Contestar

  4. Calienta el borde derecho con un iOpener y continua cortando el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. El adhesivo puede estar muy gomoso. Empuja y saca la púa como un serrucho para ayudarte a cortar. El adhesivo puede estar muy gomoso. Empuja y saca la púa como un serrucho para ayudarte a cortar.
    • Calienta el borde derecho con un iOpener y continua cortando el adhesivo con una púa de apertura.

    • El adhesivo puede estar muy gomoso. Empuja y saca la púa como un serrucho para ayudarte a cortar.

    What is the required temperature to soften the glue? Can I just use a small bag filled with boiling water or a heat gun.

    Wiley Sanders - Contestar

    The iOpener is a plastic bag filled with what appears to be water so probably, yes.

    Christopher St. John - Contestar

  5. Continúa calentando y cortando a través del resto del perímetro del teléfono. Deja una púa en cada borde para prevenir que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar. Al cortar por encima del botón de inicio, no insertes la púa más de la mitad hacia adentro para evitar dañar el cable de sensor de huella digital. Al cortar por encima del botón de inicio, no insertes la púa más de la mitad hacia adentro para evitar dañar el cable de sensor de huella digital.
    • Continúa calentando y cortando a través del resto del perímetro del teléfono. Deja una púa en cada borde para prevenir que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.

    • Al cortar por encima del botón de inicio, no insertes la púa más de la mitad hacia adentro para evitar dañar el cable de sensor de huella digital.

  6. Una vez que cortes alrededor del perímetro del teléfono, con cuidado levanta el borde izquierdo de la tapa trasera. No intentes remover la tapa trasera. Está todavía conectada al teléfono a través del cable de sensor de huella digital . Desliza la cubierta posterior a lo largo de su eje largo y apóyala de forma que el cable del sensor de huellas digitales no esté tirante.
    • Una vez que cortes alrededor del perímetro del teléfono, con cuidado levanta el borde izquierdo de la tapa trasera.

    • No intentes remover la tapa trasera. Está todavía conectada al teléfono a través del cable de sensor de huella digital .

    • Desliza la cubierta posterior a lo largo de su eje largo y apóyala de forma que el cable del sensor de huellas digitales no esté tirante.

  7. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips de 4.1 mm de largo que sujetan el soporte del conector de huella digital.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips de 4.1 mm de largo que sujetan el soporte del conector de huella digital.

    • Al volverlo a montar, ten cuidado con no apretar demasiado estos tornillos, o podrías dañar tu pantalla.

    A magnetic screwdriver tip helped here.

    Ciprian Chelba - Contestar

    If you purchase iFixit’s kit for this replacement, their included driver is magnetic. Helped immensely!

    Rick Johnson -

    after replacing my camera, my screen had a big green/white vertical stripe. I didn’t see the disclaimer about overtightening these screws. I think it may be related.

    Ethan Berry - Contestar

  8. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el soporte del conector de huella digital que se encuentra debajo de la bobina NFC. Remueve el soporte del conector de huella digital. Remueve el soporte del conector de huella digital.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el soporte del conector de huella digital que se encuentra debajo de la bobina NFC.

    • Remueve el soporte del conector de huella digital.

    Re-inserting this is tricky and requires pretty good dexterity. The shiny metal frame of the wireless charger is also not held down, so you may wish to gently apply pressure to it as you try to re-position the connector bracket.

    William Kew - Contestar

  9. Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de huellas digitales de su zócalo. Cuando desconectes conectores como estos, ten cuidado de no desalojar los pequeños componentes montados en la superficie alrededor del zócalo.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de huellas digitales de su zócalo.

    • Cuando desconectes conectores como estos, ten cuidado de no desalojar los pequeños componentes montados en la superficie alrededor del zócalo.

    • Para volver a colocar los conectores a presión como éste, alinea y presiona con cuidado en un lado hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el otro lado. No presiones sobre el centro. Si el conector está desalineado, los pines pueden doblarse, causando daños permanentes.

  10. Remueve la tapa trasera. Antes de instalar una tapa trasera de reemplazo, asegúrate de remover todo el residuo de adhesivo del marco del teléfono. Usa una herramienta de apertura para raspar y alcohol isopropílico de alta concentración para limpiar la superficie. Si estás reutilizando la tapa trasera, asegúrate de limpiar cualquier adhesivo y de aplicar un nuevo adhesivo para la tapa trasera.
    • Remueve la tapa trasera.

    • Antes de instalar una tapa trasera de reemplazo, asegúrate de remover todo el residuo de adhesivo del marco del teléfono. Usa una herramienta de apertura para raspar y alcohol isopropílico de alta concentración para limpiar la superficie.

    • Si estás reutilizando la tapa trasera, asegúrate de limpiar cualquier adhesivo y de aplicar un nuevo adhesivo para la tapa trasera.

    • Si vas a colocar una nueva carcasa trasera, asegúrate de compararla con la pieza original. Transfiere cualquier componente adicional (como el difusor) a tu nueva pieza.

    When reassembling is it better to first attach the new adhesive back gasket to the phone back or the phone chassis frame?

    Tom Burke - Contestar

    Hi Tom!

    It depends on the adhesive. Carefully align the adhesive to the phone by matching the contours. Note which adhesive side is backed by a clear liner, and which side is backed by a colored liner. The clear liner should be removed first. Whichever component the exposed adhesive faces should be the first surface to apply to.

    Hope that helps!

    Arthur Shi -

    Two things:

    1) I recommend attaching the adhesive to the Phone frame and not the back panel. As you attach, you can more easily see the gaps and guide the adhesive along the groove, leaving equal space all around.

    2) To transfer the fingerprint sensor, you will need double-sticky tape to make a new gasket. Put the tape on the back from the inside, and trim with a blade to make the sensor hole. To attach the sensor, place it on something small to raise it off your working surface, then lower the back over it. You’ll be able to see the sensor alignment as you lower the back, which helps get a good position.

    Gary Beardsley - Contestar

    Oh, and be prepared: Removing the old adhesive is teeeeedious!! It will take you some time. :-b Alcohol is not a strong solvent, so don’t expect it to remove much; it is mostly for cleaning afterward. In the end, I used one of iFixit’s flat metal tools from the big toolkit to remove the final remains. Its was blunt enough to not cut metal shavings as I cleaned.

    Gary Beardsley - Contestar

    I ended up reusing the original adhesive as it was in pretty good shape. So far, no problems.

    Dan Comiskey - Contestar

    Does your IF356-119-1, Google Pixel 3 Rear Cover Adhesive, template use 2 sided pressure sensitive tape? Do I simply align it on the back cover and then press it to the device to reassemble the unit? If so, how long til the back cover is “glued” to the unit?

    Martin Seffens - Contestar

    Hi Martin,

    The rear cover adhesive is indeed two-sided PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive). Apply firm even pressure for a minute to bond the adhesive to the unit.

    Arthur Shi -

    When scraping the adhesive off the back cover be careful and don’t apply too much pressure (and/or position the cover against the surface so that it’s supported against the tool used), especially in the corners, or the glass cover rounded edges could break.

    Bart Oleksiak - Contestar

    My battery swelled and did all the hard work getting started popping the back open so I didn’t need the iOpener to get the back off, but now the iOpener is handy to heat up the sticky foamy factory original adhesive.

    I found isopropanol ineffective. I found heat softens it considerably. Just very warm, like hot water warm, is effective. Use tweezers or a plastic blade to help pull it off. Metal blades will either gouge the plastic or, worse, create metal shavings that will wreak havoc.

    Are there any solvents other than isopropanol that work and won’t harm the plastic? How do pros speed up this step?

    wsanders - Contestar

    I think pros often use heating pads or special jigs. They’d set the temperature, set the phone on the pad, and let the phone heat up for a few minutes. Heat guns are also a popular choice.

    Arthur Shi -

    I found that an opening pick worked well to scrape the glue off the inside of the curved edges of the back cover

    Richard Elder - Contestar

    The adhesive on mine took some effort to clean off all the way. During reassembly I did notice that my replacement back panel adhesive was larger than I expected and based off of product photos it looks like I received the 3 XL adhesive instead of the 3. That ended up having me fiddle with the adhesive to try and get it to fit right and unfortunately the camera side now has a bit of a gap that I can still press down on without having it stick. I’ll see how it stays but I fear I might have to get another adhesive. The guide was very helpful though!

    Craig Mileham - Contestar

Conclusión

Sigue estos pasos ] si necesitas transferir el sensor de huellas digitales a la tapa trasera de repuesto.

Para volver a ensamblar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra comunidad de respuestas de Google Pixel 3 para obtener ayuda para la resolución de problemas.

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Arthur Shi

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7 comentarios

My back cover would not come off by just using an iOpener. After getting a heat gun and applying the heat to the bottom corners I was able to get the adhesive weak enough to pry open.

Anthony Laskowski - Contestar

Where I can buy a GENUINE back cover for my Pixel 3? Does anybody know?

FabianoD - Contestar

Where can I buy all the tools needed to repair my Pixel 3?

karenleehanna - Contestar

How do you ensure the back cover is waterproof after putting it on? The precut adhesive card turns out just to be a roll of tesa tape, it would be nice if it actually had round cutouts, or large rectangular sections to custom cut to ensure water proofing around fingerprint sensor, and camera flash led.

Daniel Patterson - Contestar

Hi Daniel,

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to ensure water resistance after a repair, as the factory adhesive is applied using specialty tools. I’d suggest sealing it the best you can with adhesive and using a water resistant case.

On the adhesive product page, you can find the adhesive card under the first pull-down menu. The adhesive card does have rounded corners and cutouts for this purpose.

Arthur Shi -

I bought the back glass and followed this guide. But the guide glosses over the hardest part — transferring the diffuser and camera lens! The back cover doesn’t come with the adhesive for those, so I’m stuck trying to figure out how to hack together sticky stuff that’ll make a decent seal around those parts.

lars sveen - Contestar

Sorry to hear that! You will need some double-sided adhesive such as Tesa tape (listed in the parts section) to adhere the diffuser and lens. I’ve adjusted the introduction to mention this.

Arthur Shi -

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