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Introducción

La placa madre contiene toda la potencia de procesamiento de su dispositivo y conecta todos los componentes dentro de tu tableta. Al igual que con cualquier reparación, ten cuidado al desconectar estos componentes de la placa madre.

  1. Apaga el dispositivo. Usa tu herramienta de apertura de plástico para calzar entre los rebordes alrededor de los lados del dispositivo. Haz palanca en cada lado, uno a la vez.
    • Apaga el dispositivo.

    • Usa tu herramienta de apertura de plástico para calzar entre los rebordes alrededor de los lados del dispositivo. Haz palanca en cada lado, uno a la vez.

    • No te acerques al puerto USB de la base del dispositivo, ya que puedes romper el panel trasero.

    I had a heck of a time doing this, spent ten or twenty minutes carefully prying, and I STILL cracked the case. At least on mine, the case was held in VERY well and required prying pretty much everywhere before it would let go. The tools I bought from iFixit really helped, but still a royal pain to open.

    pacmanmaster - Contestar

    a couple of obscure things that might help in opening:

    guitar pick. get a few; they are cheap.

    a prying device made for the sign industry: its called"lil' chizler". I have found that this to be the most helpful opening tool.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/16184595677...

    also

    https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/trad...

    you can use the broken screen unit to test.

    Len Gorsky - Contestar

    Add "remove the sim tray"...

    Iain Lennon - Contestar

    I echo the previous - a right royal pain to get the cover off! I started on the right side as seemed to be more give there… iFixit tools helped tho!

    Steven Emery - Contestar

    Just for the sake of clarity, I would add that you need to pry between the plastic bezel and the back casing. Not between the glass and bezel. Someone had already tried on the one I worked on and part of the bezel was missing in the top right corner. Made my job easier!

    The best tools for this part are definitely something like the iFixit Jimmy and their opening tool, a few guitar picks and a spudger. Not too difficult once you get the first separation.

    Cool_Breeze - Contestar

    I managed to easily crack the screen, guess I’ll have to order a new one and “try” to put it in, in addition to the original job of replacing a dead battery on Nexus 7 2013..ahhhhhh, slow learner…

    Gary Stamey - Contestar

    Opened the case for the first time. It took me a while to find any gaps, but I found that the easy way to begin was using your fingernail to get into the sides. The middle left and middle right seemed a lot easier to…slip a nail in compared to the rest of the case, especially the corners and the top and bottom. With a small opening on both sides I used the opening tool to increase the gaps while using a couple of guitar picks to prop up the device against the back case. With most of the sides exposed, I worked on the bottom (create opening, leave a guitar pick to keep that part open, use the opening tool to get the rest out), and the opening was pretty much complete.

    So far only the corners of the back case showed small cracks and my screen was pretty much unscathed.

    Nam Lam - Contestar

    This method worked best for me! Start opening on the middle left and right sides, then prop them open with guitar picks and use to the opening tool (carefully) prying up several times moving away from the middle towards the corners to pop off the back casing.

    Frank's VR -

  2. Trabaja con los dedos alrededor del reborde entre el dispositivo y la tapa posterior. Usa la herramienta de apertura de plástico y los dedos para separar cada lado hasta que el dispositivo y la tapa trasera estén completamente separados.
    • Trabaja con los dedos alrededor del reborde entre el dispositivo y la tapa posterior. Usa la herramienta de apertura de plástico y los dedos para separar cada lado hasta que el dispositivo y la tapa trasera estén completamente separados.

    • Ten cuidado en las esquinas. El cuerpo del dispositivo puede ser frágil.

  3. Inserta la herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del borde lateral del conector de la batería y haz palanca hacia arriba para desconectarlo.
    • Inserta la herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del borde lateral del conector de la batería y haz palanca hacia arriba para desconectarlo.

    THIS should be the first cable to disconnect. Always remove power first!

    dave - Contestar

    We moved this step to be fist, thanks for the edit!

    Sam Goldheart -

  4. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o tu uña para voltear hacia arriba la solapa protectora transparente en el enchufe ZIF del cable plano. Con el extremo plano de un spudger o de la uña, voltea la parte delgada del conector (opuesto al lado donde se inserta el cable) para liberar el cable de su toma. NO PRUEBES el enchufe en el lado donde se inserta el cable, o puede romper todo el enchufe de la placa madre.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o tu uña para voltear hacia arriba la solapa protectora transparente en el enchufe ZIF del cable plano.

    • Con el extremo plano de un spudger o de la uña, voltea la parte delgada del conector (opuesto al lado donde se inserta el cable) para liberar el cable de su toma.

    • NO PRUEBES el enchufe en el lado donde se inserta el cable, o puede romper todo el enchufe de la placa madre.

    • Desliza el cable fuera de la toma ZIF.

    • Para obtener más información sobre cómo desconectar los conectores ZIF, consulte la guía Reconocer y desconectar los conectores de los cables.

    Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

    yuguoxiong - Contestar

    This is the correct way to do it. Flipping up the white part is what you have to do. I tried flipping up the black part and some of it broke off.

    Ryan -

    I found that I had to flip up on the black part here. I broke a section of the white trying to flip it up.

    pattylanter - Contestar

    This comment saved me on this step. Indeed the secret is to flip up the black part of the connector, located opposite the side where the cable inserts.

    Hannah Cirimele -

    This is wrong, these comments should be deleted so as to not confuse more people.

    Jeff Andrews -

    It's possible there's more than one color variation in production on these Nexus 7 ZIF sockets. To complicate matters, it looks like the guide's original author/photographer may have simply yanked the ribbon cable out without opening the socket, so there's very little visual clue here as to which is the right section to flip up. Based on these photos, I'd say Hannah's tip is probably correct—you want to flip up the thinner portion of the socket, opposite the cable (regardless of its color scheme). If someone who has successfully completed this step could supply a better photo, that would be super helpful!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I revised the text so there's no long any mention of the coloration of the socket.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I believe I broke the ZIF attached to the mobo at this step; is there any other way to reconnect it during reassembly or will I require a new mobo?

    Neil Reed - Contestar

    This was my first time with this kind of ZIF socket and found these instructions/pictures ambiguous. In hindsight I see what was being described (actually used the replacement daughterboard as my guide). May I suggest this phrasing:

    The ZIF clamp hinges on the side opposite of where the cable in inserted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and away from the insertion side of the connector.

    charles fineman - Contestar

    Correction of Charles' Oct comment: The ZIF clamp hinges on the same side as the cable is inserted, the side towards the battery. The cable runs over the battery and into the thick connector, with contacts both on the side closest to the battery and on the side away from the battery. Beyond the contacts on the side away from the battery is the thin part to be lifted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and towards the insertion side of the connector. You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector.

    ted ballou - Contestar

    You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector, using a motion similar to the described in step 5 below for removing the orange ribbon connector.

    ted ballou - Contestar

    some better macro photos of the zif socket would help a lot, in closed and open states

    Iain Lennon - Contestar

    For anyone like me who has only experience with metal connectors similar to iPhones, this is a "switch-on/switch-off" connector.

    The cable doesn't pop out by itself, you have to pull it out yourself.

    Light to moderate pressure required.

    Jason - Contestar

    Please make the pictures clearer as Iain Lennon said. I too was a fool to not read the comments and broke the connector off of the motherboard.

    Yumi Blesh - Contestar

    Ha.

    So one side of the cable has a white strip connector, and the other side has a black strip connector. (both comments above are correct, depending on which side you are looking at)

    The side in the photo has a black connector strip that needs to be opened. It is the long small strip of plastic on the _opposite_ side of the connection point, to the cable.

    It clicks up into the air, like on a hinge.

    The cable then pulls out, without any resistance.

    Warwick - Contestar

    Having totally destroyed the ZIF connector I can now say that the WHITE portion is hinged and the BLACK portion is not. Both parts are extremely fragile. The photographs are really useless.

    David Spitzer - Contestar

    exactly ……..

    esykas -

    This shouldn’t be the first cable to disconnect. Disconnect the battery cable first. Always remove power first!

    dave - Contestar

    Good catch @hobohax0r, we rearranged the steps to help fix that!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I have added a photo of the socket in the open state. Also looking at the comments above it seems that the confusion is due to the fact that this cable is connected to a similarly looking connector on the other side, where the colors are reversed. It may be worth to point this out and tell that the connector the guide is talking about is located near the heatsinks

    Michael Sokolkov - Contestar

    Be very careful when you reconnect this cable - for some reason my screen would not respond to touch any more if you reconnect the cable on too tightly. Make sure you leave a bit of slack when putting the cable back in, and not just jam it all the way in.

    Mark - Contestar

    I tried to take some pictures of the way the sockets worked on mine (2013 Wi-Fi (Flo)), but considering hardware variations, I’m not sure if this applies to every Nexus 7 (or even every Flo)

    https://imgur.com/a/wd8hFqW

    W H - Contestar

    Just to follow up, much later… if you see white, you should see a small notch. lift there.

    Look very carefully at the second photo and see the white “flap” has been opened, pointing at you.

    Whichever color, it takes NO REAL EFFORT to flip them back. No need to force anything at this micro level.

    Mike Maddux - Contestar

  5. Despega la tapa protectora de la parte posterior de la placa madre para exponer la conexión de cinta naranja.
    • Despega la tapa protectora de la parte posterior de la placa madre para exponer la conexión de cinta naranja.

    • Las conexiones de la cinta deben ser ahora completamente visibles, con las lengüetas de plástico expuestas.

  6. Con las pinzas, retira la lámina protectora de plata de la parte superior del conector de cinta naranja. Con la herramienta de apertura de plástico, haz palanca hacia arriba bajo el conector de cinta naranja. Se saldrá de lugar. Con la herramienta de apertura de plástico, haz palanca hacia arriba bajo el conector de cinta naranja. Se saldrá de lugar.
    • Con las pinzas, retira la lámina protectora de plata de la parte superior del conector de cinta naranja.

    • Con la herramienta de apertura de plástico, haz palanca hacia arriba bajo el conector de cinta naranja. Se saldrá de lugar.

  7. Ahora que las dos cintas principales están desconectadas, dóblalas y sujétalas con los dedos, o coloca las pinzas o un objeto ligero sobre las cintas para mantenerlas en su lugar. Ahora que las dos cintas principales están desconectadas, dóblalas y sujétalas con los dedos, o coloca las pinzas o un objeto ligero sobre las cintas para mantenerlas en su lugar.
    • Ahora que las dos cintas principales están desconectadas, dóblalas y sujétalas con los dedos, o coloca las pinzas o un objeto ligero sobre las cintas para mantenerlas en su lugar.

    How called is the left one ? I broke it and i will buy it but cant find it..

    Timo Dohmen - Contestar

  8. Usa el destornillador Phillips #00 para remover los cuatro tornillos plateados Phillips de 3 mm de alrededor de la carcasa de la batería.
    • Usa el destornillador Phillips #00 para remover los cuatro tornillos plateados Phillips de 3 mm de alrededor de la carcasa de la batería.

    There are 6 screws on mine. One at the top and the other directly across from that on the other side of the battery at the bottom. These two screws are covered with a small adhesive sticker that says “seal". Those stickers need to be removed so the Phillips screwdriver can be inserted to remove them.

    dabair30 - Contestar

    Correcrion, there are 7. One more at the top left corner of the battery tray. The last 3 screws are slightly larger than the first 4.

    dabair30 - Contestar

    I found using a #00 Philips worked better for my removal.

    Todd - Contestar

  9. Retira la batería de tu dispositivo aplicando presión en la base de la batería y levantándola.
    • Retira la batería de tu dispositivo aplicando presión en la base de la batería y levantándola.

    If your replacement battery doesn’t have the metal battery tray included (like mine came) be aware you’ll have to CAREFULLY pry the old battery out of the metal tray. It has some pretty strong glue holding it in, but prying on it slowly and carefully should get it free without bending up the metal tray. There should be enough glue residue left in the tray to hold the new battery in, at least until you get the tablet back together.

    Tracy Nash - Contestar

    Thank you for the very helpful comment - I was facing the same issue!

    Jorge Gomes -

    You probably should add that the battery is held in the tray with some glue strips. It took a bit to carefully remove the battery from the tray without bending the tray too much. Also, the replacement battery I had was slightly smaller than the OEM battery. When putting back together make sure you place the battery in the tray so the battery is close enough to the battery connector and you can reconnect the battery without pulling on the connector wires.

    Todd - Contestar

    Having replaced the battery I find it doesn't charge. Which connector could be at fault please?

    mxclubman - Contestar

  10. Retira el sello gris que cubre el tornillo central superior de la tarjeta hija Ten en cuenta que esta acción anulará su garantía.
    • Retira el sello gris que cubre el tornillo central superior de la tarjeta hija

    • Ten en cuenta que esta acción anulará su garantía.

    • Asegúrate de guardar el sello en un lugar donde no se ensucie y pueda retener su adherencia.

    I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

    yuguoxiong - Contestar

    How come the battery is still in place in the picture? I couldn't get the battery out until I'd removed another 3 screws...1 on the daughterboard (step 11) and 2 on the motherboard (step 16).

    Mark Birbeck - Contestar

    Both hidden screws were holding the battery tray in place. I was not able to remove the battery as described in step 9 before removing the screw from this step

    coutureg - Contestar

    If you are replacing just the main board and not the daughterboard , I skip this part and go to step 16.

    danovila - Contestar

  11. Desenrosca los 5 tornillos negros de 2 mm de tamaño con el destornillador Phillips #0 de alrededor del borde de la placa madre.
    • Desenrosca los 5 tornillos negros de 2 mm de tamaño con el destornillador Phillips #0 de alrededor del borde de la placa madre.

    • Usa el mismo destornillador Phillips #0 para quitar los dos tornillos plateados de 3 mm a cada lado del micro USB.

    Is there a reason you suggested removing the screws at this point? I found it to be more of a hassle having the board moving around as I did the next several disconnects. Unless there's a good reason, I would suggest leaving the screws in until the foam and the connectors have been detached.

    charles fineman - Contestar

  12. Usa las pinzas para desconectar el conector de altavoz de la placa hija tirando lateralmente. Ten cuidado en este paso ya que este conector puede ser frágil. No tires hacia arriba.
    • Usa las pinzas para desconectar el conector de altavoz de la placa hija tirando lateralmente.

    • Ten cuidado en este paso ya que este conector puede ser frágil. No tires hacia arriba.

  13. Con cuidado despega la tapa adherida del conector de la clavija con las pinzas.
    • Con cuidado despega la tapa adherida del conector de la clavija con las pinzas.

  14. Usa el extremo plano de una papa o tu uña para voltear cuidadosamente las dos solapas de retención de cada uno de los zócalos ZIF. Al desconectar los zócalos ZIF, voltéalos hacia afuera, hacia el borde de la placa o hacia los cables respectivamente.
    • Usa el extremo plano de una papa o tu uña para voltear cuidadosamente las dos solapas de retención de cada uno de los zócalos ZIF.

    • Al desconectar los zócalos ZIF, voltéalos hacia afuera, hacia el borde de la placa o hacia los cables respectivamente.

    • Ten cuidado de no dañar el conector de clavijas. Tira en paralelo al dispositivo, no hacia arriba.

    • Para obtener más información sobre cómo desconectar los conectores ZIF, consulta la guía Reconocer y desconectar los conectores de los cables.

    Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

    yuguoxiong - Contestar

  15. La placa hija se elevará fácilmente hacia arriba y fuera del dispositivo.
    • La placa hija se elevará fácilmente hacia arriba y fuera del dispositivo.

    • Ten cuidado durante el reensamblaje. Esta placa hija es una parte muy sensible. Es fácil freír la parte del digitalizador de esta placa si las conexiones se realizan en el orden incorrecto. Completa todas las demás conexiones de cables antes de conectar la alimentación de la batería.

  16. Usa las pinzas para despegar la etiqueta adhesiva del tornillo que se encuentra más cerca de la batería.
    • Usa las pinzas para despegar la etiqueta adhesiva del tornillo que se encuentra más cerca de la batería.

    • Asegúrate de guardar el sello en su lugar donde no se ensucie y retenga su pegamento.

    I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

    yuguoxiong - Contestar

    the stickers are probably put there for insulating purposes. i have found that discarding them has no bearing on nexus' operation.

    Leonard Gorsky -

  17. Utilizando las pinzas, o con cuidado con tus dedos, desconecta el altavoz de su conexión con la placa madre tirando directamente hacia los lados
    • Utilizando las pinzas, o con cuidado con tus dedos, desconecta el altavoz de su conexión con la placa madre tirando directamente hacia los lados

    • No tires hacia arriba ya que puedes deformar o dañar el conector

  18. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger o de su uña para voltear cuidadosamente la tapa de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger o de su uña para voltear cuidadosamente la tapa de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano.

    • Para obtener más información sobre cómo desconectar los zócalos ZIF, consulta la guía Reconocer y desconectar los conectores de los cables.

    The front panel assembly I got from iFixit didn't have this ribbon cable for power and volume, so I had to peel it off the old one. To remove it, work the spudger underneath and gently loosen it from the adhesive. There should be enough residual adhesive to stick it in place on the replacement panel assembly.

    yuguoxiong - Contestar

    your amendments are much appreciated. definitely helpful. THank YOU!

    Leonard Gorsky -

    I also had to remove the old ribbon cable here. I used a credit card to slide behind the adhesive.

    pattylanter - Contestar

    why in the world that part isnt included is beyond me. MUCH NEEDED COMMENT!!

    gocaps25 - Contestar

  19. Con el destornillador de cabeza Philips #0, retira los tres tornillos negros de 2 mm que sujetan el borde interior de la placa madre en su lugar.
    • Con el destornillador de cabeza Philips #0, retira los tres tornillos negros de 2 mm que sujetan el borde interior de la placa madre en su lugar.

    • Con el destornillador de cabeza Philips #0, retira los cinco tornillos plateados de 3 mm que sujetan el borde exterior de la placa madre en su lugar

    There is also a ZIF connector on the BOTTOM of the motherboard that must first be released, before completely lifting the board out!

    Gary Lent - Contestar

    CORRECTION --- There is also a ZIF connector on the BOTTOM of the motherboard, connected to the camera. The camera must be pried loose before the motherboard can be lifted out. NO need to release ZIF.

    Gary Lent - Contestar

  20. Levanta con cuidado la placa madre por el borde y retírala de la caja de la tableta. Aunque la cámara está conectada directamente a la placa madre desde abajo y puede que se levante de la tableta con la placa madre, también puede que no lo esté. En este caso, como se muestra, necesitará usar las pinzas para sacar la cámara de su sitio. Al quitar la placa madre se revelará el altavoz superior que se estaba manteniendo presionado. Si está planeando reemplazar el altavoz superior, ahora puede simplemente sacarlo del dispositivo.
    • Levanta con cuidado la placa madre por el borde y retírala de la caja de la tableta.

    • Aunque la cámara está conectada directamente a la placa madre desde abajo y puede que se levante de la tableta con la placa madre, también puede que no lo esté. En este caso, como se muestra, necesitará usar las pinzas para sacar la cámara de su sitio.

    • Al quitar la placa madre se revelará el altavoz superior que se estaba manteniendo presionado. Si está planeando reemplazar el altavoz superior, ahora puede simplemente sacarlo del dispositivo.

    Careful when comparing to this picture. Actually, the camera which can be seen on the left oh the housing in this picture is connected to the board.

    Thomas Isele - Contestar

    Removing the camera is necessary, as it is impossible (with any tool I have, anyway) to reconnect the camera to the motherboard while it is still in the housing. However, doing so was quite a pain on my machine as it not only did not "lift out of the tablet with the motherboard", but it also was stuck in there so tightly I wondered if it might be glued. I needed to spend several minutes gently prying it out with pliers.

    pacmanmaster - Contestar

    Agreed!>>>> Camera is GLUED down, and must be pried prior to lifting out motherboard

    Gary Lent - Contestar

    I would add that it’s imperative to loosen the camera from its housing before attempting to remove the motherboard. The two are connected via another very short ribbon cable with zif connector. Trying to pull the motherboard out with the camera still stuck to the front could damage the cable/connector. In my mind it’s safer for both to come out together while still connected.

    Cool_Breeze - Contestar

    Also, see that conductive strip in the lower right corner of the first picture with the brownish tape on the metal backplane? Many replacements do not come with that. If you look on the back of the motherboard there is a copper strip that matches this conductive strip. It connects this copper strip on the motherboard to the metal backplane of the touch screen and helps the touchscreen work properly. It doesn’t peal off easily so work at it carefully.

    wa3pyi - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Alex Greene

Miembro Desde 22/01/15

1,262 Reputación

1 Guía escrita

Equipo

Cal Poly, Team 20-16, Maness Winter 2015 Miembro de Cal Poly, Team 20-16, Maness Winter 2015

CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G16

4 Miembros

24 Guías creadas

14 comentarios

Very great guide on the teardown for swapping the motherboard. I have 2 questions if you wouldn't mind clearing up.

1. When you remove the back cover from the screen, is it glued into place or does it use small snaps to hold onto the device? How hard is it to reattach the back cover?

2. After buying a new motherboard for installation will I need to flash it with bios/firmware/OS to get it working or will it come as a ready-to-go motherboard?

Thanks for your help!

Robert Lewis - Contestar

Great guide, excellent pictures, helped me resurrect my Nexus stuck on the Google screen. Thank you!

However, it should be emphasized that steps 10-15 are completely unnecessary and should be skipped if you are only looking to replace the motherboard.

Ungha Bungha - Contestar

Agree on skipping steps 10-15 for motherboard replacement. The daughterboard was not in the way at all.

pacmanmaster -

Great guide and good instructions. I was able to swap out a faulty motherboard without any problems.

Two things I found that might need some addition/update on the instructions;

1) I found a #00 Phillips easier to use than the recommended #0 Phillips

2) You should probably add one more step to explain how the camera is attached with a ZIP socket to the underside of the motherboard. That would help in reconstructing the tablet in case, like me, your camera does not come up with the motherboard.

Great work and thanks for the help!

Todd - Contestar

Hello,

i would like to ask some help. I did everything exactly as you mentioned upper, however my screen is not able to handle my touch. Do you have any opinion what should be the problem?

Rgs,

B

Blaze - Contestar

Hello,

It is a really usefully guide, thanks so much.

Unfortunately my touch screen is not working so i am not able to set my device on my language. Could you please help me what could be the problem here?

Thanks in advance,

blaze

Blaze - Contestar

This is a wonderful guide and very easy to follow. Hats off to ifixit for speedy delivery of parts I needed to get my Nexus 7 back. Having the toolkit really made my task easy, well worth the purchase price. Thanks for the community comments, I did skip steps 10-15 and use Philips #00 and everything went well.

Michael Anderson - Contestar

Will the device work if you replace a wifi only motherboard with a wifi+4g?

Meeks P - Contestar

No need to remove camera from case, if it stays in place when lifting motherboard.

Also this guide needs better pictures, you can't tell which part of zif connectors are the hinge/flap.

Toughest part of this repair was cracking open the case to get to work.

As others suggest skip step 10-15.

John DeBusk - Contestar

Great guide! Received my part yesterday and replace motherboard skipping steps 10-15 as mentioned.

When i initially connected to power i got the LED blinking 5 times. Waited for an hour and voila, it booted up nicely.

sscssteve - Contestar

I was able to replace the motherboard using this guide, thus saving my poor tablet after the original motherboard mysteriously failed. Since official repair labor + parts costs are more than the Nexus 7 is even worth, home repair was really the only option. It is very doable, but not a repair for the faint of heart. I cracked the edge of the case while removing the screen, despite spending several minutes on it, being as gentle as I could; that sucker is just stuck on there tight! Also, my camera was stuck in the front case, and it was extremely difficult to remove without damaging it (but, removing it was necessary to connect to the new motherboard).

As a final note, I'd also say that the replacement motherboard comes with the ORIGINAL version of Android for this tablet, so it was several major versions behind when first turned on. However, I skipped having to re-install all the intervening versions by connecting it to my Mac, then using ADB to install the latest version from the Google website.

pacmanmaster - Contestar

The guide is very useful. Unfortunately, Ihe ZIF socket for the larger flat cable lifted off the motherboard when I tried to pry the top of the socket open when I went to remove that cable. I just ordered a new Motherboard from IFIXIT to replace the one I just broke - pretty inexpensively.

John Strebler - Contestar

Is the Wi-Fi version mother board compatible with the LTE version? My Nexus7 died and I rather repair mine than buy a new one, and since I’ve allways used the wi-fi connection…… (sorry for my english)

Elisa Matassa - Contestar

Kudos for this very helpful guide. As mentioned above, steps 10-15 aren’t necessary if you’re just replacing the motherboard. The rear-facing camera may also stick to the display housing, so be careful to release and not damage the ribbon cable connected to it when lifting the motherboard out.

Mas Kato - Contestar

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