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Repara tus cosas

Derecho a reparar

Partes y herramientas

Introducción

Quita la pantalla para reemplazarla o acceder a los componentes internos del ordenador.

    • Coloque una ventosa para trabajos pesados cerca de cada una de las dos esquinas superiores del panel de vidrio.

    • Para colocar las ventosas, primero coloque la ventosa con la manija móvil paralela a la cara del panel de vidrio (como se resalta en la segunda imagen).

    • Mientras sujeta ligeramente la ventosa contra el vidrio, levante la manija móvil hasta que quede paralela con la otra manija (como se destaca en la tercera imagen).

    • Si sus ventosas se niegan a adherirse, intente limpiar tanto el panel de vidrio como la ventosa con un paño suave y sin pelusa.

    • (Humedezca con agua destilada, y si es necesario, una proporción igual de agua destilada y vinagre blanco para obtener mejores resultados).

    • No use las ventosas para transportar el cristal de la pantalla, ya que si una de ellas no se pega, podría soltar la pantalla y romperla. La caja iMac original es un buen lugar para almacenar el panel de vidrio. De lo contrario, una superficie horizontal acolchada, como una toalla sobre un escritorio, funcionará bien.

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - Contestar

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - Contestar

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - Contestar

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - Contestar

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - Contestar

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - Contestar

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - Contestar

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs - Contestar

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar - Contestar

    good duct tape or gaffer tape wrapped around your hands makes an excellent glass removal 'tool'. Even clear packing tape works a charm.

    Stu Blair - Contestar

    A great first step that minimizes that first gust of dust migration when the glass is lifted is to clean the glass, sides *and the back* before lifting the glass, and then lift SLOWLY. Most of that dust is already trapped inside and pulled up as the screen lifts, but with care you can keep it there (or gently vacuum out with a micro vac…).

    John - Contestar

  1. Levante suavemente el panel de vidrio perpendicular a la cara de la pantalla LCD lo suficiente para despejar las clavijas de montaje de acero unidas a lo largo de la parte inferior del borde superior del panel de vidrio. Tire del panel de vidrio desde el borde inferior del iMac y cuidadosamente déjelo a un lado. No use las ventosas para transportar el panel de vidrio; si cualquiera de las dos pierde su agarre, el panel podría caerse y romperse.
    • Levante suavemente el panel de vidrio perpendicular a la cara de la pantalla LCD lo suficiente para despejar las clavijas de montaje de acero unidas a lo largo de la parte inferior del borde superior del panel de vidrio.

    • Tire del panel de vidrio desde el borde inferior del iMac y cuidadosamente déjelo a un lado.

    • No use las ventosas para transportar el panel de vidrio; si cualquiera de las dos pierde su agarre, el panel podría caerse y romperse.

    • Después de colocar el panel de vidrio de manera segura, asegúrese de liberar las ventosas, ya que la fuerza de succión con el tiempo puede romper el vidrio.

    • Durante la reinstalación, asegúrese de limpiar meticulosamente el interior del panel de vidrio y la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD, ya que cualquier polvo o huellas dactilares atrapadas en su interior será molestamente visible cuando se encienda la máquina.

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - Contestar

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - Contestar

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - Contestar

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - Contestar

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - Contestar

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - Contestar

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - Contestar

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

    I find that the LCD is not as fragile as we all think. they are very much like any LCD on a tv or monitor. There is no extra glass on the front of a monitor. Not the 23 HP Pro Displays I have anyway. I know this because I punctured one moving my video wall. so I took it apart to know how its put together. I will say, there are several 'lens’ like sheets and a reflective (silver} sheets that are the same size as the panel. and a 1/8”piece of acrylic, all behind the LCD panel. Take care with them and clean as you would your monitor.

    My suggestion is to stand the iMac up after the panel is secured back into the body of the iMac and clean while its vertical. took me 3 attempts before I realized that while laying flat the surface is large and collects dust with mind blowing speed.

    Stu Blair - Contestar

  2. Quita los ocho tornillos T10 Torx que sujetan la pantalla LCD a la carcasa exterior.
    • Quita los ocho tornillos T10 Torx que sujetan la pantalla LCD a la carcasa exterior.

    • Ten cuidado de no tocar la pantalla, ya que el aceite de los dedos puede dejar un residuo que puede ser difícil de eliminar.

    • Si es necesario, retira las juntas EMI ubicadas cerca del borde central superior del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

    henryhsu - Contestar

    All screws were exactly the same for me.

    Michael Grace - Contestar

  3. Cuidadosamente coloca el iMac boca abajo sobre una superficie plana. Debido a las estrictas tolerancias, tendrás que usar una herramienta delgada enganchada para levantar la pantalla de la carcasa exterior. Como se ve en la primera imagen, hicimos una con un clip doblado. Un par de pinzas anguladas también pueden funcionar bien. Usa una herramienta delgada con gancho para levantar un lado del borde superior de la pantalla por su marco exterior de acero.
    • Cuidadosamente coloca el iMac boca abajo sobre una superficie plana.

    • Debido a las estrictas tolerancias, tendrás que usar una herramienta delgada enganchada para levantar la pantalla de la carcasa exterior. Como se ve en la primera imagen, hicimos una con un clip doblado. Un par de pinzas anguladas también pueden funcionar bien.

    • Usa una herramienta delgada con gancho para levantar un lado del borde superior de la pantalla por su marco exterior de acero.

    • Después de levantar el borde superior de la pantalla por un lado, sosténlo fuera de la carcasa exterior mientras usas una herramienta con gancho para levantar el otro lado.

    • Levanta y sostén la pantalla lo suficientemente alto como para acceder a los cables.

    • No levantes demasiado el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa exterior, ya que varios cables de cinta cortos todavía conectan los dos componentes.

    I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

    iandh - Contestar

    This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

    Gary Kimes - Contestar

    The right side was much more stuck in place then the left

    John - Contestar

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  5. Desconecta el cable de sincronización vertical en la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla. Usa la punta de un spudger para empujar las pestañas laterales del conector y sácalo suavemente de su zócalo.
    • Desconecta el cable de sincronización vertical en la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla. Usa la punta de un spudger para empujar las pestañas laterales del conector y sácalo suavemente de su zócalo.

    After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

    ITSupportGuy - Contestar

    Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

    Hobowan Kenobi -

    thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

    Eric -

    Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.

    JLTX -

    Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

    Alex Reynolds - Contestar

    This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.

    simonf -

    I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

    jonostainsby - Contestar

    It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

    Daniel - Contestar

    Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

    Stephen Genusa - Contestar

    with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

    jason kawaja - Contestar

    display propped carefully and two spudgers rocking simultaneously worked great for me to get this free.

    THEN still be careful, a small loop of tape held the cable to the back - that has to be gently pulled away to let the screen lift.

    John - Contestar

  6. Este paso acerca tus manos a la parte posterior expuesta de la fuente de alimentación. Para evitar una descarga de alto voltaje de los muchos condensadores grandes conectados a la placa, NO toques la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación.
    • Este paso acerca tus manos a la parte posterior expuesta de la fuente de alimentación. Para evitar una descarga de alto voltaje de los muchos condensadores grandes conectados a la placa, NO toques la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación.

    • Desconecta el cable del controlador de retroiluminación LED con la mano presionando la pestaña hacia abajo y deslizándola hacia la parte inferior de la pantalla.

    Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

    maccentric - Contestar

    Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

    Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

    fabio4 - Contestar

    I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

    Timo Laak -

    Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

    Thanx a bunch!

    Esteban Garcia -

    Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

    dtsai2 -

    I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

    Rita - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

    john -

    I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

    Frank Stickney - Contestar

  7. Tira de la pestaña negra hacia arriba para desconectar el pestillo del conector ZIF del cable de datos de la pantalla. No tires demasiado fuerte hacia arriba o dañarás el conector y el zócalo.
    • Tira de la pestaña negra hacia arriba para desconectar el pestillo del conector ZIF del cable de datos de la pantalla.

    • No tires demasiado fuerte hacia arriba o dañarás el conector y el zócalo.

    • Continúa tirando de la pestaña negra hacia la parte superior del dispositivo para desconectar el cable de datos de la pantalla.

    i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

    LUIS - Contestar

    me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

    I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

    strcarlos - Contestar

    This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

    Alex Nelson - Contestar

    Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

    asthomas -

    The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

    ganesh - Contestar

    How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

    Brian Bowlin - Contestar

    This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

    Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

    Jem Marsh -

    I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

    thewiseone71 - Contestar

    The is a great tip

    Jem Marsh -

    I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

    lana.lawrence - Contestar

    So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.

    Thanks!

    Jeff McConnell -

    What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

    Mark Whitehead - Contestar

    I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.

    randy3833 - Contestar

  8. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla junto al cable de datos de la pantalla.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla junto al cable de datos de la pantalla.

    need more description than “disconnect” here. It took my awhile to figure out that it’s was a “back toward” connector.

    John Oakley - Contestar

    Thanks John, would you give a short suggestion on how to help other users to remove such a “back toward” connector to make it clearer?

    Angel -

    I broke 1 of the pins on the logic board side when reconnect. Now my iMac have no display. Not sure how to fix it.

    Need better description here with close-up photos to avoid accident like mine.

    quanghuymt - Contestar

  9. Tira con cuidado de la pantalla hacia el borde superior de su iMac y sácala de la carcasa del iMac.
    • Tira con cuidado de la pantalla hacia el borde superior de su iMac y sácala de la carcasa del iMac.

    When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

    johnhugh - Contestar

    do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

    find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

    Kurt L Nelson -

    FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

    1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

    2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

    zackduchene - Contestar

    Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

    adrianh -

    There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

    Gary Kimes - Contestar

    ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

    Gary Kimes - Contestar

  10. Coloca la pantalla boca abajo sobre una superficie plana y suave.
    • Coloca la pantalla boca abajo sobre una superficie plana y suave.

    • Si estás reemplazando el panel de la pantalla, deberás transferir componentes adicionales del panel anterior al nuevo. Compara la parte posterior de la pantalla anterior con la pantalla de reemplazo. Ten en cuenta todos los cables, sensores y amortiguación de espuma que faltan en la nueva pantalla.

    • Si hay un cable o cable debajo de la cinta adhesiva, siempre retira la cinta primero. No tires del cable directamente.

    • Si el cable está pegado al chasis, usa un iOpener calentado o un secador de pelo para suavizar primero el adhesivo. Luego puedes deslizar una púa de apertura debajo del cable para aflojarlo. Nunca tires de los conectores delicados.

    • Desliza una púa de apertura debajo de las piezas del cojín de espuma para separarlas de la pantalla y retíralas suavemente. Es posible que necesites cinta adhesiva de doble cara para volver a colocarlos en la nueva pantalla.

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Phillip Takahashi

Miembro Desde 22/08/11

79,309 Reputación

87 Guías creadas

For starters, thanks for this great tutorial!

I have a small question though.

What is meant by "Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface."

If I lay the iMac on my desk, the mount is preventing it from going completely flat.

I find the 27" quite heavy to lift and was wondering if I was doing something wrong.

Anybody have any tricks to lift the LCD without too much lifting?

Thanks!

Jeroen Klaassen - Contestar

Where to buy a replacement lcd panel for a 2011 imac. Or jul.st the led with the conectors

Juanc - Contestar

BUYER BEWARE!!

Good review if you were provided all the necessary connector cables on your replacement part. I bought the replacement LCD online from ifixit.com and it’s missing all connectors except the LED Backdriver cable.

This is what I pulled off my iMac.

This is what I was shipped by ifixit.

Even missing foam cushioning that protects inside components from the back of the LCD. If you’re not going to include those connectors in shipped parts, then you need to include how to remove them from your old LCD and transfer them to the new one. Thanks for having me tear down my iMac for nothing. At least I could use it previously with an external monitor. Now I have to put it back together just to be able to do that again.

cdowney - Contestar

Hi cdowney! I’m sorry to hear about your experience. We try to let you know on the product page which components our parts come with, as stated in the product description: “The LVDS cable and temperature sensor are not included in the assembly and will need to be transferred from your original display.” This guide may not be 100% complete for the specific part we sell right now, parts often change based on source and time after original release, and can vary between providers. We try to keep up with changes but aren’t always successful.

That said, the cables on the old display are removable and can be fairly easily transferred to your new display. Simply peel up the black tape and disconnect the cables, and plug them into the new display. The foam pieces are not critical, but can also be transferred to the new display, the adhesive should enable re-sticking with no issue. If you have trouble, don’t hesitate to reach out to us!

Sam Goldheart -

here, have some wine

altomic -

Hello Sam. I appreciate the reply and have noticed you’ve at least updated the guide to note at the end a clear picture of what is sold, and how it differs from what you pull off of your iMac. At iFixit Support’s advice, I am now attempting to transfer the cables. However, now I’m noticing a whole other set of issues. There is not only a whole row of fabric covered cushion on the bottom of the display I’ve removed from my iMac, as well as a complete housing frame not even mentioned at all in the guide. The cushion may be part of the housing frame, but I cannot easily discern that. I’ve removed what screws I can see from the housing frame and it is not coming free from the old LCD. This housing frame is what holds the magnets that the front glass panel sticks to. Based on that and the issue with the cable transfer, I’d advise removing this product and guide from your website until you can provide better support for this DIY replacement. VERY FRUSTRATED.

cdowney - Contestar

A useful tip when removing/replacing the display: it’s quite hard to get at the delicate brass LCD cable if you are doing so by lifting up the display and peering in underneath while working with the iMac horizontal, on its back. I find my hands get in the way of seeing the connector, and it is also at just the wrong distance for my poor eyesight; not great for what is likely the most delicate connector in the whole device.

A much easier way to disconnect the cable is to keep the iMac vertical on its stand and, with the other smaller cables already disconnected, lift the display up and out of the ‘gutter’ at the bottom, and place its base on your work surface; there is enough slack in the LCD cable for that. Now it is very easy to disconnect the LCD cable, as it is in full view. Also nice and easy for reconnecting the cable too.

Guy Hemmings - Contestar

I’m having an extremely difficult time trying to figure out how to remove the housing frame from the old display to transfer to the new one. Does anybody have any tips? Thank you in advance.

jpriv67 - Contestar

Normally, reversing the steps in this guide and others is quite straight-forward. In this case, you really need to add the steps to reconnect the four ribbon cables from the LCD panel. Disconnecting the ribbon cables is easy but re-attaching them with one hand is a lot harder given the limited cable length, weight, and fragility of the LCD panel. Even putting the iMac on its back and bracing the LCD panel at an angle with ball point pens leaves very little space to work. Any techniques you can share to make this awkward and breakage-prone part of the operation easier would be very welcome.

BillMudge - Contestar

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