Saltar al contenido principal

Introducción

Aprende a actualizar o reemplazar la memoria en 6u Mac mini 2018 con esta guía de reemplazo de RAM. El mini puede admitir hasta 64 GB de RAM, utilizando cualquier combinación de módulos de memoria RAM SODIMM de 8 GB, 16 GB o 32 GB DDR4-2666.

Resumen del Video

  1. Apaga y desenchufa tu Mac mini antes de comenzar.
    • Apaga y desenchufa tu Mac mini antes de comenzar.

    • Usa una herramienta de apertura para levantar la tapa inferior de la Mac mini.

  2. Levanta y remueve la tapa inferior.
    • Levanta y remueve la tapa inferior.

    • Para volver a instalar la tapa, alinea con cuidado para que las palabras "Mac mini" puedan leerse cuando los puertos estén frente a ti. Luego, presiona la tapa para que se encajen los clips ocultos en su lugar.

    • Retira los seis tornillos de seguridad T6 Torx que sujetan la placa de la antena y que tienen las siguientes longitudes:

    • Tres tornillos de 4.1 mm

    • Tres tornillos de 1.8 mm

    • Durante toda esta reparación, controla cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde salió para evitar dañar tu Mac.

  3. No retires por completo la placa de la antena; Todavía está conectado a la Mac mini con un cable de antena
    • No retires por completo la placa de la antena; Todavía está conectado a la Mac mini con un cable de antena

    • Con cuidado, levanta la placa de la antena para poder acceder al conector del cable de la antena que se encuentra debajo.

    • Con los puertos de la Mac mini frente a ti, el lugar más seguro para levantar la placa de la antena es desde el lado derecho.

  4. Usa un destornillador T6 Torx para remover el tornillo que sujeta el cable de antena a la placa lógica de la Mac mini. Sujeta con cuidado la placa de la antena para no tensar el cable mientras sacas el tornillos
    • Usa un destornillador T6 Torx para remover el tornillo que sujeta el cable de antena a la placa lógica de la Mac mini.

    • Sujeta con cuidado la placa de la antena para no tensar el cable mientras sacas el tornillos

  5. Tira suavemente del cable o usa la punta de un spudger para levantar su conector directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Para volver a conectar el cable, usa pinzas para colocarlo cuidadosamente sobre su zócalo en la placa lógica, y luego presiónalo firmemente hasta que encaje en su lugar. Si necesitas más holgura en el cable, puedes separarlo temporalmente de los clips que lo sujetan a la placa de la antena.
    • Tira suavemente del cable o usa la punta de un spudger para levantar su conector directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Para volver a conectar el cable, usa pinzas para colocarlo cuidadosamente sobre su zócalo en la placa lógica, y luego presiónalo firmemente hasta que encaje en su lugar.

    • Si necesitas más holgura en el cable, puedes separarlo temporalmente de los clips que lo sujetan a la placa de la antena.

  6. Remueve la placa de antena de la Mac mini.
    • Remueve la placa de antena de la Mac mini.

  7. Kits de Reparación de Batería de MacBook Air

    A partir de $69.99

    Buy Now

    Kits de Reparación de Batería de MacBook Air

    A partir de $69.99

    Buy Now
  8. Utiliza un destornillador T6 Torx para remover los cuatro tornillos de 7.2 mm que sujetan el ventilador: Dos tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la placa lógica
    • Utiliza un destornillador T6 Torx para remover los cuatro tornillos de 7.2 mm que sujetan el ventilador:

    • Dos tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la placa lógica

    • Dos tornillos que sujetan el ventilador a la salida de escape

    • Las arandelas de goma sujetan estos tornillos al ventilador, por lo que es posible que no salgan completamente. Solo asegúrate de que estén completamente sueltos.

  9. El conector del ventilador está debajo del ventilador y no se puede desconectar hasta que el ventilador se mueva a un lado. No intentes quitar el ventilador completamente todavía. Levanta el ventilador del borde plano donde se encuentra con el orificio de ventilación, teniendo cuidado de no forzar el cable del ventilador por debajo.
    • El conector del ventilador está debajo del ventilador y no se puede desconectar hasta que el ventilador se mueva a un lado. No intentes quitar el ventilador completamente todavía.

    • Levanta el ventilador del borde plano donde se encuentra con el orificio de ventilación, teniendo cuidado de no forzar el cable del ventilador por debajo.

  10. Toma el cable del ventilador de los seis cables y levántalo suavemente para desenchufarlo de la placa lógica. Toma el cable del ventilador de los seis cables y levántalo suavemente para desenchufarlo de la placa lógica.
    • Toma el cable del ventilador de los seis cables y levántalo suavemente para desenchufarlo de la placa lógica.

    Be super careful here, socket on board can easily break and end up coming-off with the fan’s cable.

    jimthing - Contestar

  11. Remueve el ventilador.
    • Remueve el ventilador.

  12. Toma el cable de la fuente de alimentación y levántalo para desconectarlo de la placa lógica, moviéndolo según sea necesario para aflojarlo.
    • Toma el cable de la fuente de alimentación y levántalo para desconectarlo de la placa lógica, moviéndolo según sea necesario para aflojarlo.

    Loosen the side nearest outer case first

    dermoid777 - Contestar

  13. Levanta con cuidado el conector de la luz indicadora LED hacia arriba para desconectarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Levanta con cuidado el conector de la luz indicadora LED hacia arriba para desconectarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Levanta con cuidado el conector de la luz indicadora LED hacia arriba para desconectarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    So I followed the picture above, but lifting straight up on it ended up breaking off the entire component from the board…

    Is there a way to fix this? It doesn’t look like the computer turns on without this connection made

    Kevin Moran - Contestar

    @ksmoran Yes, it can be fixed. See Maarten’s comments on the RAM guide. That connector is only for the LED indicator light on the front, so your Mac mini should still turn on and work fine. If it’s not turning on, there’s some other problem.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I have also broken the led connection off the logic board. Is there another way to reattach it, other than finding someone to solder it?

    Steve Kenyon - Contestar

    The video at the top of the page (timestamp: 2:30) does a much better job showing how to do this. They didn’t use any tools. Simply use your fingers to pull the wires straight up from the connector. Don’t try touching the actual components, since they’re so fragile. The wires are the better bet.

    Philip Stancil - Contestar

  14. Utiliza un destornillador Torx T10 para remover los dos tornillos de 7.5 mm que sujetan la placa lógica. Utiliza un destornillador Torx T10 para remover los dos tornillos de 7.5 mm que sujetan la placa lógica.
    • Utiliza un destornillador Torx T10 para remover los dos tornillos de 7.5 mm que sujetan la placa lógica.

    These were very tight,

    plevin - Contestar

    Yes - Had to use a pliers to turn the T10 Screwdriver to get the first turn loosened!

    dermoid777 - Contestar

  15. En este paso, empujarás la placa lógica para liberarla de los clips que la sujetan al marco. Empuja solo donde se te dirija o puedes dañar las frágiles aletas del ventilador. Coloca un pulgar en cada extremo del escape del ventilador, sobre los orificios de los tornillos del ventilador. Presiona firmemente hasta que la placa lógica se desenganche. Una vez que se liberan los clips, desliza la placa lógica afuera de la caja.
    • En este paso, empujarás la placa lógica para liberarla de los clips que la sujetan al marco. Empuja solo donde se te dirija o puedes dañar las frágiles aletas del ventilador.

    • Coloca un pulgar en cada extremo del escape del ventilador, sobre los orificios de los tornillos del ventilador. Presiona firmemente hasta que la placa lógica se desenganche.

    • Una vez que se liberan los clips, desliza la placa lógica afuera de la caja.

    • Al volver a instalar la placa lógica, asegúrate de apartar el cable delgado de la luz indicadora LED para que no se dañe.

    Okay - I used a lot of “might” to push on the ends of this heatsink to no avail. Literally, I was scared to break it - I could feel one side moving and the other not budging. I used a large flat-edge screwdriver vertically into the Mac Mini, prying lightly against the edge of the case hole and onto the back edge of one of the silver fan standoffs protruding from the motherboard. Very little leverage here caused the board to pop out past those tight clips. Phew!

    booster4075 - Contestar

    Agreed needed a lot of force, but came out as described just tense moment. Almost ready to try the pry method and then it popped free. Phew is right.

    plevin - Contestar

    It does take a lot of force. I found the best way to handle it is to put the two exhast screws back in and use two T6 screw drivers to push. Thats easier than using your big thumbs and keeps you from damaging the fins.

    Geoffrey McKee - Contestar

    Wow, great. Thanks for the comments above, and mine is also very difficult to push. I screwed back to two T6 screws and is still no luck. At the end, I push the two screws with a T6 screwdriver and bang, much much easier. Just my two cents. Good luck guys.

    Tso Dart G - Contestar

  16. Utiliza el destornillador Torx T5 para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 2.8 mm que sujetan el protector de RAM.
    • Utiliza el destornillador Torx T5 para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 2.8 mm que sujetan el protector de RAM.

  17. Levanta el protector de RAM y deslízalo hacia afuera del ensamblaje de RAM.
    • Levanta el protector de RAM y deslízalo hacia afuera del ensamblaje de RAM.

  18. Dos clips sujetan cada módulo RAM en su lugar, uno a cada lado. Con los dedos, separa los clips del módulo de memoria RAM. Cuando se liberan, los módulos de memoria RAM aparecerán con un ligero ángulo.
    • Dos clips sujetan cada módulo RAM en su lugar, uno a cada lado. Con los dedos, separa los clips del módulo de memoria RAM.

    • Cuando se liberan, los módulos de memoria RAM aparecerán con un ligero ángulo.

  19. Desliza cada módulo de memoria RAM hacia fuera para eliminarlo.
    • Desliza cada módulo de memoria RAM hacia fuera para eliminarlo.

    • Cuando manejes el módulo de memoria RAM, toca solo los bordes exteriores. Ten cuidado de no tocar los puntos de contacto de color dorado a lo largo del borde inferior.

  20. Para instalar nuevos módulos RAM: Asegúrate que el módulo esté orientado correctamente y que la muesca en la parte baja del módulo esté alineada, y luego deslízalo hacia adentro en el mismo ángulo en el que lo removiste. Presiona adecuadamente hasta que los contactos de oro no sean visibles. Repite para el segundo módulo.
    • Para instalar nuevos módulos RAM:

    • Asegúrate que el módulo esté orientado correctamente y que la muesca en la parte baja del módulo esté alineada, y luego deslízalo hacia adentro en el mismo ángulo en el que lo removiste. Presiona adecuadamente hasta que los contactos de oro no sean visibles.

    • Repite para el segundo módulo.

    If the rubber covers come off they are a pain to put back on - you have to slide the rubber into space between the RAM module and the retainer clips - this video explains it perfectly -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos...

    dermoid777 - Contestar

  21. Finalmente, presiona las esquinas superiores de cada modulo para moverlas hacia abajo en direccion a la placa logica hasta que las trabas de cada lado del modulo queden en su lugar. Si los protectores de goma interfieren con las trabas, separa los protectores de goma de la memoria RAM con una mano y usa la otra para poner en ángulo el módulo RAM en su lugar. Luego, suelta los protectores de goma. Chequea las trabas y asegúrate que ambos módulos estén seguros y en su lugar.
    • Finalmente, presiona las esquinas superiores de cada modulo para moverlas hacia abajo en direccion a la placa logica hasta que las trabas de cada lado del modulo queden en su lugar.

    • Si los protectores de goma interfieren con las trabas, separa los protectores de goma de la memoria RAM con una mano y usa la otra para poner en ángulo el módulo RAM en su lugar. Luego, suelta los protectores de goma.

    • Chequea las trabas y asegúrate que ambos módulos estén seguros y en su lugar.

Conclusión

'Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.'

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra comunidad de respuestas para obtener ayuda para la solución de problemas.

134 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

100%

Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

Rod Bland

Miembro Desde 25/03/13

2,319 Reputación

1 Guía escrita

Thank you so much! I’m curious about CPU. Is it possible to replace it?

cjoonh - Contestar

No, the CPU is soldered to the logic board.

Jon Anscher -

Looks like the SSD is replaceable as well. Any idea on what kind of standard it follows?

QiF - Contestar

looks like soldered to me. either way, with that T2 chip on board one shall not pass through…

Peter Marencik -

How many slots for ram rank have Mac mini? And the entry version (8Gb) how many rank have ? One of 8gb or two of4gb? Tank’s

tiffanycafenapoli - Contestar

There are two RAM slots.

If you order the Mac Mini with 8GB RAM, it will contain 2 x 4GB RAM cards.

Douglas Bailey -

what about the CPU??? Please explore more!!!

Peter Marencik - Contestar

Hi Peter,

the CPU is not socketed. Check out the teardown here.

Arthur Shi -

Can you put 2400Mhz RAM in the Mac Mini?

I ask because the MAC mini memory ram is rated for 2666mhz and I have ddr 4 2400mhz RAM laying around.

Nicholas Mohamed - Contestar

I’m curious to this as well, because performance-wise there’s not any noticable difference but there is a price difference.

Mikael D -

I had a pair of G.Skill F4-2400C16S-16GRS laying around as well and both went in to an i5 mini no problem. About this Mac reported that the new memory speed was 2400 .

Ben Marco -

Is it possible to have :

1x 4Go DDR4 Apple 2666Mhz

with

1x 16Go DDR4 Crucial 2666Mhz ?

jean - Contestar

Yes, you can mix and match the module sizes in just about any Mac, so you could even have 4GB +32GB

Rod Bland -

Rod, do you know if the performance is affected by different sized RAM? It may be too late for me now, but maybe I should have bought one 32GB module instead of two 16s.

Jon Anscher -

Although it is technically okay to mix ram sizes (if the mobo and BIOS allows it), there IS a performance penalty when not using matched pairs of memory. That is true for just about any computer (Windows PC or Mac); , it has to with interleaving and other factors. In some cases, even if both sticks are same RAM size but different makers or configurations, that can also cause a performance hit, hence why most recommend using matched pairs of SAME manufacturer / model. By configuration i mean a 4 GB chip may have a 4 x 1GB config., where as another 4GB chip from another maker may have a 2 x 2GB config or 8 x 512MB (or whatever, ) Macs have historically much tighter tolerances (ie. less forgiving) when it comes to memory vs say a garage mix and match PC build; I strongly suggest using matched pairs by same maker, and stick to reputable brands. there are a lot of gray market chips out there with very questionable tolerances; if the price SEEMS TOO GOOD, THERE IS A REASON.

Michael Chin -

The first video posted on Youtube said the mac didn’t recognize the replaced memory properly. He installed the DDR4 3000, but it just run at 2444. Do you guys tried other RAMs?

seawah.k - Contestar

So, upgrading the ram won’t brick the Mac mini?

tran269 - Contestar

No it will not brick the mac, worked like a charm with the Corsair 2x16GB from Amazon. Sorry IFIXIT.

Provided you take static precautions and use general care.

This tutorial is a great step by step. I used the IFIXIT TOOLKIT and the IFIXIT Magnetic Project Mat to complete the task. 30 minutes start to boot up. Save about 350 some odd dollars versus ordering it preconfigured from Apple, but to each their own.

Roger Alexander -

32GB RAM should meet my needs for a while, as it has for several years now. I read that the mini won’t be as fast with unbalanced RAM, so I ordered 2x16 instead of 1x32. That could have given me 36GB along with a 4GB from my 8GB mini order. 2x16Gb costs less than 1x32 so there’s a savings there, but I will ultimately have wasted money on the 16GB SODIMMs if I eventually need to upgrade to 64GB. Wasn’t an easy thing to decide on.

Lots of people will face this dilemma.

Johann Johannson - Contestar

As I wrote the previous post on the 8GB mini, the security bits for installing the RAM arrived. With 8 programs and several background processes running—the LG 4K monitor Newegg had on sale last week for $259 has 30 icons on its menu bar—the mini is still comfortably below its 8GB limit. With paging occurring only infrequently and at blazing-fast speeds, I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll ever feel a need to install more than 32GB RAM.

Now to get to work and put those tools to use. Thanks for the tips!

Johann Johannson - Contestar

Thanks so much for putting this guide together! Upgraded with 32GB of Crucial RAM. It works great, and I saved $240!

Jon Anscher - Contestar

Bricked! Mini will not turn on. Any ideas?

For the avoidance of doubt. I presume I did something wrong. Anyway, put factory ram back in, still doesn’t start.

spamsea - Contestar

Have you tried unplugging everything except a single monitor, keyboard, and mouse from the Mac Mini? I had some issues starting up the Mac Mini with a lot of peripherals plugged in. It seems to have resolved itself after it fully loads for the first time and all the updates hit. Although it does worry me a bit, long-term.

Jon Anscher -

That comment probably just saved Apple thousands of dollars lol. Hope you got it fixed, please keep us hesitants posted.

Radwan Kaloti -

I tried both removing all devices (headless) and just the basics. Is there anyway to tell if the power is plugged correctly to the logic board? I mean it looks right, just trying to think of things I could check. The only things I can think of are that the ram is somehow out of alignment in some micro way, (i tried new ram, old ram, wiggling in various directions etc) I didn’t put the power plug back on the logic board correctly or I somehow fried something..

spamsea -

One other thing you might try is powering it on in Recovery mode to confirm there is no software glitch. Have you posted this in the Answers community? There might be more technical folks there to try and help.

Jon Anscher -

Did you get it working spamsea?

Radwan Kaloti -

I had heard that it was necessary for Apple to run some sort of hardware test before new Apple products would be able to run ANY replacement parts. Could this be the reason it doesnt work? Now I’m nervous about trying to upgrade.

Ben DeJong -

Same-ish here. I swapped out the original ram for 32GB (2x16) from Crucial. Then the Mac mini won’t turn on again. I put the old ram back in and it turns on, but only recognizes one slot.

Jarrod -

Well, there is nothing for it, just gotta take it in to the Genius Bar. See if they can tell me what is wrong.

spamsea -

I’m bailing on the upgrade, it’s just not worth the potential hassle. And I thought about it, if ever I need to take it in to Apple for repairs during the apple care warranty, that’s opening and closing it 3 times, RAM in RAM out, might get away with it once, but opening it 3+ times ups the chances to break something.

Radwan Kaloti -

Fixed it.

Problem 1: The ram wasn’t seated properly. It clicks into place a few millimeters before it’s pushed down far enough. Push until the gold connectors are no longer visible at all. Mine seemed like it would break, but it didn’t.

Problem 2: This one was minor, but I had to hold the power button down for 5 or 10 seconds before it turned on. This isn’t usually the case, it’s only after replacing the ram.

Jarrod -

Way to go Jarrod! Thanks for the update. Please post another in a day or two as to how stable everything is. Thanks!

Mike Buettner -

Jarrod - are you still experiencing the power button long hold to start?

Mike Buettner -

Second mini. I followed the same steps, it all went fine. One difference is that on the second mini, I replaced the ram before turning it on for the first time.

spamsea -

This goes to my comment that Steps 19 - 22 and in Step 22 in the comment it says currently:

If the rubber guards interfere with the clips, spread the rubber guards away from the RAM with one hand and use the other to angle the RAM modules into place. Then, release the guards.

This should be replaced with - Remove the rubber grommets or RAM SHIELD FEET by sliding them in the same direction you slid the RAM SHIELD to remove it and then replace the ram normally. Replace the FEET and the Shield as described.

Roger Alexander -

Info: Mac Mini 2018 also works with DDR4 2400 Mhz

About this Mac: https://gyazo.com/b203d435cf809b2775abb7...

System Info: https://gyazo.com/21213acd745d5f2d6219c3...

Joerg Michael - Contestar

Looks like we have a wait a little while more before we proceed to change those RAMs. The worst fear is bricking the whole system.

Let’s wait for more updates from those who can’t turn on their systems after changing their RAMs.

truecolours1971 - Contestar

Plus, if the MM 2018 is able to run various task normally at 8GB of RAM, I don’t see myself upgrading the RAMs until the pricing are much lower. For now, 64GB is about $1,080 at OWC website which is ridiculously priced! Maybe when the MM is able to accept and run 128GB worth of RAM (day dreaming at the moment!), I will buy it! Will only purchase the 64GB RAM when it is less than $500 or less. My take for those who have not upgraded yet, use your MM for now and don’t think of upgrading your RAMs until much later. Upgrading to 32GB will see some improvement but why not wait a couple months and get the 64GB which will max out your system. MM 2018 is still relatively new and iFixit probably need to go through the whole system again to see and retest to make sure whatever we open, will not void out 1-3 years Apple Care Warranty plus brick the whole system.

truecolours1971 -

Yes, anxious to hear how upgraded Minis are working.

Mike Buettner - Contestar

What, no antistatic mat and bracelet. If the RAM modules are sensitive to static charges, you should use static protection gear. You can zap a memory chip and never even know you did it until you cannot boot or you get system crashes or other oddnesses.

jferris1119 - Contestar

Is there any chance to replace the SSD ?

wyattwong - Contestar

Can you use only one slot, e.g. 1x16GB and add another one later (even better 1x32 when those are out)?

beczka - Contestar

Thank you for your guide.Great work. I added 2x16GB Crucial and it’s working like a charm. One drawback … I killed the WLAN antenna socket. This one is very very fragile. While putting the cable back on the pin and pushing gently to lock it the whole socket came off. Good that I don’t need the WLAN module and maybe I’m able to buy a new socket somewhere sometimes and solder it back on place …

Markus Müller-Heidelberg - Contestar

Hello. Is it possible to run the Mac Mini 2018 with only one RAM module (leaving the second one empty)? If it is possible, is there a penalty in its performance?

Thanks you.

Adrian Alvarado - Contestar

This is the first ifixit repair guide I’ve ever followed. The 3 steps I was most worried about...Step 6: antenna cable connector removal. Step 10: fan cable removal. Step 13: LED indicator light cable removal...weren't an issue at all. In fact the only step I had an issue with was Step 15 (pushing the logic board free) and that's because I wasn't pushing hard enough. Overall, a little scary to crack open something brand new that's $1k but I was able to pull it off without issue. (thankfully). Now this Mac mini is running with 32GB + 3 monitors and should last me the next 4 years till Apple updates it again.

Craig Miller - Contestar

My upgrade went pretty much okay. Easier than I thought. Antenna wire snapped right back on, motherboard slid out without much effort and memory modules were easy to remove and seat. Only problem I had was a stripped head on a fan Torx T6 screw on reassembly. I must not have had the driver seated into the screw correctly. Screw is tight so all okay for now. Booted up and shows the 32GB of RAM. Need to find a new screw and hope the old one comes out. I know I didn’t crank it down. Any idea where to find that screw?

Mike Buettner - Contestar

Yes that angle of attack should probably be emphasized in detail in Step 8 - good point!

I was like WHAT? Thankfully I have my cheater glasses (old eyes) and I was able to see the angle of attack clearly under magnification.

Roger Alexander -

Step 8 - make it more clear the ‘rubber grommeted’ screws are ‘captive screws’ and they are specifically the yellow screws holing the front of the air box to the heat sink - not the red screws which are removed completely during this process.

Step 15 - for me it was necessary to use the blue pry tools employed in the opening of the bottom cover to assist in ‘freeing’ the main board from the housing - probably not everyone will encounter this but after some serious pushing on the heat sink without result, I fell back to this step. I pushed and the left side budged, but only slightly. So I started on that edge at the ‘case / port mounts of the mainboard seal’ with the blue pry tools and boom it popped free and I was able to complete the step as described to free the mainboard completely from the case…..

Roger Alexander - Contestar

Step 19 - 22 I think it should be made clear that there are rubber grommets that serve at the ram shield ‘feet’ and they can be remove by sliding them in the same direction you slid the Ram shield to remove it. then you can replace the ram - replace the ‘rubber feet’ and then the Ram Shield. I preferred this method to ‘fumbling around that rubber to access the clips to free the ram. This step should definitely be included.

Great tutorial - easy to follow - thanks man!

Roger Alexander - Contestar

Hi Rod,

On Step 3 it says to “Remove six TR6 Torx security screws…of the following lengths: Three 4.1 mm screws; Three 1.8 mm screws”

Is this a typo? How can it be that one TR6 screwdriver can remove two different sizes of screws/

Thank you for your help.

Ken Klippenstein - Contestar

Ken,

It is not a typo the screws are different sizes but require the same T6 Torx to remove them. The Larger serve as the mount points for the rubber case bottom and are in fact what you used the pry tool in steps 1 and 2 to remove the bottom cover ‘from’.

Hope this helps.

Roger

Roger Alexander -

TR6 is the head size, which is shared by both screws. The millimeter measurements are the lengths of the screws from head to the bottom of the shaft, not across the width of the head.

Sam Lionheart -

This guide is excellent. I would have been stuck at removing the logic board without it! Sure glad I bought the iFixit toolkit on Black Friday. What I installed was Ballistix Sport DDR4-2666 (2x16GB). But Mac reports it is running at 2400MHz, not 2666. Otherwise it is working great. Has anyone been able to correct RAM speeds? On a PC I’d fiddle with BIOS settings and kick in the XMP profile, but is there anything I can do on a Mac?

chris - Contestar

Unfortunately I &&^&@@ up on step 13.

I was afraid to pull on the LED wire and had no grip on the plug. The I tried to wedge with a knife from below and the whole socket including the plug came loose from the board.

I know now this was stupid! Probably I should have lifted on the wire itself, right?

Do you think the tiny connections from the socket can be soldered again by somebody more professional?

Maarten - Contestar

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

@sikko Highly likely it can be fixed by somebody with the right skills and soldering rig. Fortunately I believe that socket is only for the little indicator LED on the front, so it’s likely not a mission-critical item. You can probably put it back together and ignore it. If I could pick one thing to break, that would be it ;)

Jeff Suovanen - 2 hours ago

Yes Jeff, I put the mini together yesterday and found that everything was working okay (with 32 GB of RAM) except for the LED light. Today I went to an electronics repair guy, who soldered the socket back in place. That made me happy again. He was professional and really nice guy and did not even charge me anything for this soldering of the LED socket! So fortunately all is fine again.

I noticed now there is a warning at Step 13. Very good! I don’t know if that warning was there yesterday; at least yesterday I did not notice it.

Maarten - Contestar

Excellent description! And with the tools from iFixit it was easy to upgrade my MacMini 2018 to 32GB RAM. Thanks a lot.

heiko.morgen - Contestar

Completed upgrade this evening.  Great instructions!!!

John Clowes - Contestar

Thanks for the great guide! Just did it in approx. 25 minutes and I'm now running 20GB memory. Everything is running smooth. I'll maybe update the other 4GB chip some time down the road when I have the extra $$.

Erik - Contestar

Thank you Rod! Did a successful memory upgrade from 8Gb to 32Gb with this step-by-step guide!

Martijn Smulders - Contestar

Thanks! I have 32gb now and saved a lot of $$$

Sergey - Contestar

Excellent guide!

ironically I found the 2018 model much easier to breakdown than previous models.

Frank Phillips - Contestar

One thing to think about regarding memory and the fixed internal storage. 8GB while sufficient for most light duty users still causes some swap activity to write back to the main storage. While SSD/Flash based storage life-cycle has proven to be extremely durable, continuous swap activity does consume some of the finite write cycles for the chips. With older/slower physical drives this was usually an after-thought.

Additionally, storage failure in any way now requires logic board replacement versus a separate drive swap. Lastly, if failure does occur, what mitigating factors does Apple (or any authorized service agency) take to ensure personal/private data is completely destroyed? Non-fixed drives don’t have this problem - replace the defective drive and load back up, assuming the consumer retains the original drive.

scdude - Contestar

Hi all, does anyone know the details of the little two pin led connector? Whilst removing it during a RAM upgrade one of the wires pulled through the plastic housing of the connector. The board pins are ok just the housing of the connector and I’d like to replace it. Thanks.

Simon Smith - Contestar

Thank you, Rod!

Excellent step by step tutorial, with very clear and detailed pictures. Also, great tips and warnings. I took it slowly and completed it successfully within the hour (including dropping the antenna screw in the mac mini - yes, it rolled away under some component).

Thank you so much!

Dennis - Contestar

Thanks! A very precise and easy to follow guide. Some observations:

I had purchased two 16 GB Crucial RAM modules despite the latency number (CL19) which I suspect does not matter in practice. They fit very well - I had no trouble with the fit being too tight. However, like another comment noted, it seemed easier to just slide the rubber guards off and then back on after the new modules are in place.

The hardest part was plugging the antenna cable back in. It is simply hard to see when it is in the right place and you can safely push down.

Logic board screws were annoyingly tight.

The ifixit toolkit was extremely helpful.

J. Andreas Baerentzen - Contestar

One general comment, when removing the Wifi antennae connector, be very careful when prying it up. Mine somehow became damaged upon removal and will not reinstall. Luckily, I am close enough to my router that it doesn’t affect performance. Signal strength is still 4 full bars and speedtest.net shows no loss in speed. Very lucky in my case.

Warren McBride - Contestar

Success! This guide was great together with the ifixit pro kit. Thank you!

Nikolai van der Burg - Contestar

Thank you iFixit for the kit, the Crucial memory modules, and the instructions.

My remarks, repeated in other comments:

- obviously be very very careful with the antenna and the led connector, they are really tiny.

- the board screws are really tight. Had to use some pliers with the torx piece because the iFixit plastic handle did not seem strong enough for the required force. Or better, I had no force to unscrew them using the kit.

- make sure the RAM is fully plugged in. If you can see the coper from the connectors, they’re not well plugged. The machine won’t start if they’re not plugged, not even turn the led on.

- even with the RAM well plugged, the trick to press power for five seconds is needed. Five despairing seconds waiting for the led to come on.

Works perfectly. The kit is perfect. The memories are great. The Mac mini process is quite easy and well designed. I’d say a low end of the moderate.

bruno.rodrigues - Contestar

Hi. Can anyone confirm if this is true ? ( Published 2019.03.24 on the youtube video)The latest Mac mini 2018 builds are no longer user upgradeable – you need to take your Mac mini back to your local Apple Store to have them upgrade it for you. They've changed all the screws to stop you accessing the internals. They look like proprietary T3/4 security screws

Manuel N - Contestar

Hi @manuelnv This guide proves that isn’t true, the device can be opened, it does require a T6 security screwdriver as well as T5 and T10, but those driver are not very uncommon. Apple wouldn’t call this computer user-serviceable, but read the comments here, many people have done this successfully =)

Sam Lionheart -

Just installed the 32GB memory kit on brand new Mac Mini. Worked no problem, the instructions were super clear! Thanks iFixit!!!

Cyrille Taillandier - Contestar

Good guide! Can the ram be replaced using only one 32gb chip, then adding a second 32gb later?

Ian gilmartin - Contestar

So I did break the LED indicator light off of the board. Any suggestions? Is that worth micro-soldering back on, or is it just that the light doesn’t work?

Todd Peperkorn - Contestar

Just upgraded to 1 x Crucial CT2K16G4SFD8266 32GB (16GB x2) bought from Amazon.de for some 196€ (220$). Done within 15mins, thanks IFIXIT for a superb guide! The only tricky part was a first boot, I had to go via Recovery Mode (Command+R during startup), restart, Safe Mode (Shift during startup), another bounce and voilà, the system is up and running again reporting 32GB of memory :) So thanks IFIXIT for saving me almost 400$!

George Groats - Contestar

Thanks a lot. Is it possible to change the ssd?

uwemoebus - Contestar

Thank you - your guide worked like a charm - I unboxed and upgraded the memory before turning it on - from 8 to 32 GB.

I also read all the comments and found them most useful in identifying the risky/tricky steps in the process - the cable connections that required extra attention - correctly seating the memory - etc.

Bryan Palmer - Contestar

Worked perfectly Rod. Thanks for being detailed.

Brian Kidd - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 Horas: 257

Últimos 7 Días: 1,398

Últimos 30 Días: 6,948

Todo El Tiempo: 117,576