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Introducción

Vuelva a colocar la carcasa inferior de aluminio en un MacBook Pro Unibody.

  1. Reemplazo de la carcasa inferior de MacBook Pro de 15 pulgadas Unibody de finales de 2008 y principios de 2009, Puerta de acceso: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la carcasa inferior de MacBook Pro de 15 pulgadas Unibody de finales de 2008 y principios de 2009, Puerta de acceso: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Con el estuche cerrado, coloca el Unibody boca arriba sobre una superficie plana.

    • Presiona el lado ranurado del pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso lo suficiente para agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta el pestillo de liberación hasta que quede vertical.

    The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

    I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

    aguib - Contestar

    Cita de aguib:

    The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

    I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

    I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.

    lgc90 - Contestar

    when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?

    irishking - Contestar

    Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?

    Max

    Max - Contestar

    On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 Hard Drive Replacement , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.

    Can you confirm this?

    Many thanks in advance.

    ahothabeth - Contestar

    Cita de SHerwood Ball:

    My display and aluminum casing has separated.

    I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.

    I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.

    I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping

    portion have been broken........

    SHerwood Ball - Contestar

    When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?

    thvv - Contestar

    We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.

    Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

    Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.

    I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.

    The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.

    Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!

    landryd - Contestar

    Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?

    jegonzalez80 - Contestar

    Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.

    kenneth krabat - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de la carcasa inferior de MacBook Pro de 15 pulgadas Unibody de finales de 2008 y principios de 2009: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • La puerta de acceso ahora debe estar lo suficientemente levantada para levantarla y sacarla del Unibody.

  3. Reemplazo de la carcasa inferior de MacBook Pro de 15 pulgadas Unibody de finales de 2008 y principios de 2009, Battery: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Asegúrate de que el pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso esté vertical antes de continuar.

    • Agarra la lengüeta de plástico translúcido y extrae la batería de la Unibody.

    • Si se presiona el pestillo, se bloqueará la batería en su lugar.

    Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?

    Kaila Potts - Contestar

    No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.

    Titus (#1579) - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo de la carcasa inferior de MacBook Pro de 15 pulgadas Unibody de finales de 2008 y principios de 2009, Case inferior: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al chasis:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 5.4 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 14 mm.

    • Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.

    Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(

    Jess - Contestar

    The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.

    mattrittgers - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo de la carcasa inferior de MacBook Pro de 15 pulgadas Unibody de finales de 2008 y principios de 2009: paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usando ambas manos, levanta y retira la caja inferior de la caja superior.

    About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.

    jonathansturges - Contestar

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2 comentarios

My only comment is that the 00 phillips does not work it requires the #000. I brought my laptop to the hardware store to purchase the correct phillips.

joseph domini - Contestar

Does anyone know where to get the Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws? It is extremely difficult to find.

Thx

alfonso Velasquez - Contestar

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