Saltar al contenido principal

Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus

Qué necesitas

  1. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Tornillos pentalobe: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio cargada puede prenderse fuego y/o explotar si se la pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3,4 mm del borde inferior del Iphone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone pondrá en peligro sus sellos a prueba de agua. Ten especial cuidado de no exponer tu iPhone a daños por líquidos después de completar su reparación.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Contestar

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    iHelpU.Tech - Contestar

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Contestar

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Contestar

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - Contestar

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    bester - Contestar

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen - Contestar

    A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

    Herb

    Herb Adler - Contestar

    The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

    Gareth Flandro - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Procedimiento de apertura: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.

    • Usa un secador de pelo o prepare un iOpener y aplíquelo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante aproximadamente un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Contestar

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - Contestar

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - Contestar

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - Contestar

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - Contestar

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - Contestar

    How can I get all this tools

    Ajibol emmanuel - Contestar

    Pour ouvrir mon iPhone 7+ j’ai utilisé un séchoir à cheveux avec modération. Cela a été beaucoup plus facile

    Serge - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se superponga con el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - Contestar

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - Contestar

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

    Moi j’ai utilisé un séchoir à cheveux cela a été beaucoup plus facile pour l’ouvrir , mais avec modération

    Serge - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el espacio.

    • El adhesivo hermético que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte; crear esta brecha inicial requiere una gran cantidad de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil abrir un espacio, mueve la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo para debilitar el adhesivo hasta que pueda colocar un spudger en su interior.

    • Mientras tira de la ventosa, gira el spudger para ensanchar la abertura entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - Contestar

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - Contestar

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - Contestar

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - Contestar

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - Contestar

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed - Contestar

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne - Contestar

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne - Contestar

    Be aware that there is a small connector, under the home button.

    Herb Adler - Contestar

    I found that the edge of the spudger was too thick, so I sanded it down to almost a knife edge. This made it much easier to insert into the gap.

    Herb Adler - Contestar

    Use the Opener and a razor blade to cut through the adhesive. It takes about 45 seconds to heat up the Opener in a 1000 watt microwave. Be careful not to damage the thin display ribbon cables on the right side iphone. After you use the razor blade to cut the adhesive on the two sides and bottom you should be able to use the spudger to remove the display screen.

    larrywert - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta el extremo plano del spudger entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera en el borde inferior izquierdo del iPhone.

    • Desliza el spudger por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor silencioso, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No intentes sacar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior, ya que se sujeta con clips de plástico que se pueden romper.

  6. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira el spudger del lado izquierdo del teléfono e inserta el extremo plano en la esquina inferior derecha.

    • Desliza el spudger por el borde derecho del teléfono hasta la esquina superior, rompiendo el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

  7. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 7, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 7, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tira de la ventosa para así levantar la pantalla y abrir el iPhone

    • No levantes la pantalla mas de 10º, hay pequeños cables cinta a lo largo del borde derecho de la pantalla que conectan la pantalla a la placa lógica.

    The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

    I just broke one because of it

    BrenX1 - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

  9. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 9, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 9, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza una selección de apertura debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.

    I couldn't find the pick in the tool set, so made my own. Then I found the original in the battery box. %#*@.

    Herb Adler - Contestar

  10. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 10, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 10, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 10, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que varios cables de cinta frágiles aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - Contestar

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Desconexión de la batería: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos Y000 de tres puntos que sujetan el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.6 mm

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Contestar

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Contestar

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Contestar

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Contestar

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - Contestar

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - Contestar

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - Contestar

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - Contestar

    there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

    Lars Göbel - Contestar

    what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

    Neylley Reynoso - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Contestar

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Contestar

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - Contestar

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 13, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 13, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 13, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministre energía al teléfono.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - Contestar

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - Contestar

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - Contestar

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - Contestar

  14. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Ensamblaje de la pantalla: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Ensamblaje de la pantalla: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Ensamblaje de la pantalla: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar los cables en este paso.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para desconectar los dos conectores de pantalla inferior levantándolos de sus enchufes en la placa lógica.

    • Para volver a colocar los conectores de prensa, presione hacia abajo en un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repita en el otro extremo. No presione hacia abajo en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente desalineado, el conector puede doblarse, causando daños permanentes.

    • Si tienes una pantalla negra, líneas blancas en la pantalla o una falta total o parcial de respuesta táctil luego de reensamblar tu teléfono, trata de desconectar y con cuidado reconectar ambos cables y asegurarte de que estén bien encajados.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Contestar

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Contestar

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Contestar

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Contestar

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Contestar

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 15, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 15, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 15, imagen 3 de 3
    • Retira los tres tornillos triples Y000 que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 1.3 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 1.0 mm

    • Retira el soporte.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Contestar

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Contestar

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Contestar

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Contestar

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Contestar

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Contestar

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Contestar

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Contestar

  16. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 16, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 16, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desconecta el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Este conector de prensa también debe reconectarse de un extremo a la vez para minimizar el riesgo de flexión.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Contestar

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Contestar

  17. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Contestar

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Contestar

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - Contestar

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime - Contestar

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell - Contestar

    This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

    Jezagee - Contestar

  18. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Altavoz del Auricular: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire los cinco tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del altavoz del auricular:

    • Dos tornillos de 1.8 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.4 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.8 mm

  19. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 19, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire el soporte del altavoz del auricular.

  20. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 20, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 20, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 20, imagen 3 de 3
    • Use el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la cámara frontal de su alojamiento.

    • Doble suavemente el cable plano de la cámara hacia un lado para despejar el camino hacia el parlante del auricular debajo.

    How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?

    Cool_Breeze - Contestar

    The screen/display that I got, already included a camera/speaker. So I didn’t have to remove it.

    I finished my repair and then started to use the phone again. I noticed Facetime was not working anymore (cameras, speakers and microphone was OK). I tried a few solutions I found on the Internet but nothing seemed to work. I open the phone back up and replaced the pre-installed camera with the old one I had on the broken screen/display. Closed the phone again and now Facetime works without any issues. I just wanted to pass that along.

    Federico Montes - Contestar

  21. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 21, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire el altavoz del auricular.

    • No toque los cuatro contactos en espiral con sus dedos—los aceites de su piel podrían causar un funcionamiento erróneo. Si los toca accidentalmente, limpie los contactos con cuidado usando alcohol isopropílico (del 90% o mayor).

    If you’re looking to continue on and replace the speaker mesh, take a look at the camera/cable replacement guide.

    Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus

    tgruetzm - Contestar

    I almost forgot to clean the spring contacts, thanks for reminding me.

    Maganafixes - Contestar

  22. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Cámara frontal y cable del sensor: paso 22, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus, Cámara frontal y cable del sensor: paso 22, imagen 2 de 2
    • Dobla suavemente la cámara y el cable plano conectado hacia la parte inferior del iPhone para permitir el acceso a los componentes que se encuentran debajo.

  23. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 23, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 23, imagen 2 de 2
    • Los sensores en este paso son frágiles. Para aumentar las probabilidades de removerlos sin dañarlos, usa tu iOpener o secador de pelo para aplicar el calor sobre la porción superior de la pantalla antes de proceder. Alternativamente, agregar unas gotas de alcohol isopropílico y deja que penetre bajo los sensores antes de levantarlos.

    • Desliza un spudger debajo del cable flexible de sensor de luz ambiente y levanta el sensor de su zócalo.

  24. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 24, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 24, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 24, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la punta de un spudger debajo del cable flexible del sensor de proximidad y levante el sensor de su alojamiento.

  25. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta el borde afilado de una herramienta de apertura iFixit debajo del cable flexible del conjunto de la cámara, en el lado opuesto a la cámara frontal.

    • Si es necesario, usa un iOpener o secador de pelo para calentar la parte superior de la pantalla y suavizar el adhesivo que sujeta el cable flexible.

    • Haz palanca para separar el borde del cable flexible de la parte posterior de la pantalla.

    prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.

    Lee Attaway - Contestar

    what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?

    Mac -

    i think this just happened to me…

    william seiji marini - Contestar

    With this repair, you can just re-apply light heat to the front glass before removing this flex cable. The heat will transfer to the adhesive and will allow you to remove this flex cable very easily. Ensure that you have followed the previous steps so that you do not damage the ambient light filter and the proximity sensor. Always make sure that you pull very gently here as this is one of the most common damages caused to an iPhone 7 series. If the black strip sticks to the frame during removal, just make sure to put it back in it’s right place and you should have no issue; assuming you didn’t damage the flex cable. Always wear gloves. - TM

    Tyler Massey - Contestar

  26. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 26, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 26, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 26, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta la punta de un spudger debajo de la misma porción del cable flexible que separaste en el paso anterior.

    • Continúa separando el resto del cable flexible, empujando el spudger hacia la tira de contactos dorados circulares del auricular.

  27. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Continúa usando su spudger para separar cuidadosamente el último cable flexible de la parte posterior de la pantalla.

  28. Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la cámara frontal del cable del sensor del iPhone 7 Plus: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remueve el ensamble de la cámara frontal y el cable de sensor.

    • Hay una pieza de cinta aislante negra de doble cara que se encuentra entre la pantalla y las tres filas de contactos de bronce en la parte posterior del cable de sensor/cámara. Podría permanecer pegada a la pantalla o podría salir con el cable.

    • Al volver a ensamblar, verifica que la cinta esté en su lugar o cubre los contacto en la parte posterior del cable con una cinta apropiado como cinta Kapton.

    Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?

    Steven Martinez - Contestar

    You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.

    H. Alves - Contestar

    I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.

    Paul Wilson - Contestar

    yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?

    يوسف الريمي - Contestar

    Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.

    I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.

    Raphael - Contestar

    After replacing screen, front camera doesn’t work. Replaced camera cable cable with a new cable; still no front camera. Rear camera works fine. Also, have a software “Home” button showing up. Finger Touch ID works and works as the Home button should as far as I can tell, How do I get rid of it?

    Kevin Reilly - Contestar

    Earpiece is also not working

    Kevin Reilly - Contestar

    So i had the same problem that the erapiece only is not working after replacement..

    my soulotion was to reassmble all the flat out the there is a black double sided tape that need to put exactly on the back of the golden points behind the flat.

    once the tape back on those golden tips it should work properly

    aviel3019 - Contestar

    Another thing to be careful of is the area where the black tape sits is actually two pieces of cable that are glued together and are connected by about 15 tiny contacts.

    I must have heated the cable too much and ended up separating these two layers when prying… I put them back together but it must have not been lined up correctly as the proximity sensor and earpiece speaker did not work (the parts on the layer that came off), whereas the front camera did as that is on the same layer as the camera and was therefore intact.

    I may attempt to re align the connectors again but I feel as though a replacement flex assembly may be the more appropriate solution!

    I admit that this is my fault for overheating the component and not taking enough care, but what a weird design! Why couldn’t it have been one whole cable?

    Ed Beckett - Contestar

    Did the replacement flex fix this issue?

    Danielle Lewis -

    is it okay to use electric tape in that case to cover the copper pieces? i installed everthing and the front camera works and the speaker works just when i make a call it turns off.. any recommendations?

    3dvapeandsmoke - Contestar

    why wouldnt it come with the tape on already? Im about to put electric tape because i dont have anything else.

    Anthony Fieno - Contestar

    なぜiPhone7Plusのフロントカメラフレックスケーブルには裏面に金属端子のような部分があるのでしょうか?

    iPhone7やiPhone8にはこの部分がありませんが必要な役割がありますか?

    bakkas-3.30 - Contestar

    After replacing iPhone 7+ screen I can’t call out or answer calls everything else works cleaned contacts with alcohol wipes put it back together and same thing the time is right I even updated the os since installing the new screen but phone reboots every time a call comes in or I dial out any suggestions

    wachteldane69 - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

113 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

en es

100%

Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

Jeff Suovanen

Miembro Desde 08/06/13

427,129 Reputación

259 Guías creadas

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Staff

136 Miembros

16,573 Guías creadas

17 comentarios

Do I have to do this if i buy a new phone screen or do they usually come with one?

Tom Robinson - Contestar

If this Speaker is Not Working or it has any Noise Issues, Apple will Replace whole Front Display Section. Under their Policy, they won’t repair it. Neither Fully Replace your iPhone, only Front Panel Replacement.

macktm -

Does 7 and 7plus has the same camera/sensor strip?

Salman Siddeeque Ali - Contestar

No, it’s a bit different.

The spacing between the metal dots for the earspeaker isn’t there on the 7+ model, but is on the 7.

Benjamin Convents -

Anybody got a solution to earpiece not working after ribbon swap?

Seems to be mega common with this repair. I’ve heard a few ideas but nothing concrete. More advice about this issue would be greatly appreciated by me and a bunch of people.

michael wehner - Contestar

@linx7 Make sure the speaker spring contacts are intact and clean. Give the four circular contacts on the ribbon cable a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. Double and triple-check to make sure the flex cables are connected and seated properly and that the sockets are clean. Double-check the insulating tape as explained in this step. If none of that works, something is damaged or defective—replace the entire sensor/cable assembly and try again. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu thank you man, a few pieces of electrical tape and cleaning the connectors worked perfect.

michael wehner - Contestar

After replacing the front camera/sensor/speaker cable, everything works. But I could not get the AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR to work.

The AUTO BRIGHTNESS ON/OFF TOGGLE under DISPLAY ACCOMODATIONS is GONE.

I can only MANUALLY adjust the setting. It’s really annoying and disappointing.

Even after resetting the iOS Settings, the TOGGLE is still gone.

Any Suggestions?

Eric Vengeance - Contestar

I was also having trouble with my ambient light/prox sensor working when I got the other problems resolved. I turned out that screen’s black or white color Comes from a thin layer of paint applied to the back side of the glass.

I ended up taking a sharp pair of tweezers and gently scraping away the paint inside, right were the sensor sits. Viola the sensors can see and work again.

It left an ugly clear mark so I could under the glass, but since my screen is black a little sharpie blended it in fine and left a translucent window for the sensor.

I never had the buttons in iOS be disabled tho. Maybe the phone knows the sensor can't see, or it could be a bad cable or hardware. I'm not completely sure on the issue.

michael wehner -

there’s a white piece of plastic very small to the left of the ambient light sensor that does not come with the new screen replacement. Do we have to transfer that into the new screen as well? the answer is not shown in this tutorial and I am having issues with the ambient light sensor.

Cesar Andrade - Contestar

yeah some replacement screens don’t come with those (2?) tiny brackets. I cant believe they skipped over it either… I dont think they come with this ribbon assembly either. On one build i had to pop the brackets off of the old screen (they we glued to the screen’s frame) and use a tiny piece of electric tape to hold everything in place on the new screen’s frame. It took a little patience but amb/prox still sit in place and works fine months later.

michael wehner -

I accidentally separated the two ribbon cables. (Front Camera and proximity sensor) Could this cause a problem with the home button? Because, now the home button works only when the phone is laying down but after lifting it up and moving around, the home button stops functioning. Could it be that the ribbon cables were glued but now they are loose? Just asking to rule out the home/touch id button or the camera/proximity sensor cables. The cameras work fine by the way.

Marc Antony - Contestar

Hi guys,

i replaced this flex cable, because the old was broken and now my light sensor wont working, the button for auto-brightness is gone, all connections are checked and is fine, only the light sensor is wont working

Burciu Valentin-Catalin - Contestar

I replaced this sensor cable put everything back together turned it on….just shows the apple icon don’t go to home screen???

Buddy2665 Williams - Contestar

i assemble new flex cable but still proximity sensor does not work

Adam Shakyl - Contestar

I replaced the front facing camera, but it didn’t resolve the problem with the front facing camera. The socket on the logic board must be damaged.

Mac - Contestar

just take in mind that if you break the proximity sensor, both speakers won’t work anymore.

Ghjuvanni Bianconi - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 horas: 11

Ultimos 7 días: 77

Ultimos 30 días: 344

Todo El Tiempo: 116,291