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Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para remover la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro con la ayuda del kit de reemplazo de batería de iFixit. El removedor de adhesivo en tu kit disolverá el adhesivo que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote removerla con facilidad.

El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit es altamente inflamable. Realiza este procedimiento en un área muy bien ventilada. No fumes o trabajes cerca de una flama al descubierto durante este procedimiento.

Para minimizar el riesgo de daño, enciende tu MacBook y permite que la batería se descargue completamente antes de comenzar con este procedimiento. Una batería cargada de ion de litio puede crear una incendio peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.

Nota: El solvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos, como los recintos de plástico de los altavoces de la MacBook Pro. Ten cuidado al aplicar el solvente.

Si estás utilizando el removedor de adhesivo iFixit de estilo antiguo con una botella y una jeringa (no se vende más), [guía|110632|haz clic aquí para una guía de instrucciones ligeramente modificada].

  1. Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe que sujetan la tapas inferior del  MacBook Pro:
    • Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe que sujetan la tapas inferior del MacBook Pro:

    • Ocho 3.0 mm

    • Dos 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Contestar

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Contestar

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Contestar

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Contestar

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Contestar

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Contestar

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Contestar

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Contestar

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Contestar

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Contestar

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Contestar

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Contestar

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Contestar

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Contestar

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Contestar

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Contestar

  2. Levantar desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levante la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro.
    • Levantar desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levante la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro.

    • Dejar la tapa inferior a un lado

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Contestar

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Contestar

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Contestar

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Contestar

  3. Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería
    • Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Contestar

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Contestar

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Contestar

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Contestar

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Contestar

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Contestar

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Contestar

  4. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.
    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Contestar

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Contestar

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Contestar

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Contestar

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Contestar

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Contestar

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Contestar

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Contestar

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Contestar

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Contestar

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Contestar

    I took this whole thing apart, and broke a speaker connection because something “might” get damaged by solvent? You’re a sadistic SOB!

    Jim Disbrow - Contestar

  5. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los tres cables de antena AirPort directamente de sus enchufes en la placa AirPort.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los tres cables de antena AirPort directamente de sus enchufes en la placa AirPort.

    • Los puntos de conexión del cable son frágiles. Ten cuidado de solo levantar en el conector y no en el zócalo o cable.

    • Para reconectar, alinea el conector con cuidado en posición sobre el zócalo y presiónalo con la parte plana de tu spudger.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Contestar

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Contestar

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Contestar

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Contestar

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Contestar

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Contestar

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Contestar

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Contestar

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Contestar

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Contestar

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Contestar

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Contestar

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Contestar

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Contestar

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Contestar

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Contestar

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Contestar

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Contestar

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Contestar

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Contestar

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Contestar

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Contestar

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Contestar

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Contestar

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Contestar

  6. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de empujar en paralelo al tablero, empujando primero en un lado y luego en el otro para "sacar" el conector de su zócalo.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Contestar

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Contestar

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Contestar

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Contestar

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Contestar

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Contestar

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Contestar

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Contestar

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Contestar

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Contestar

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Contestar

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Contestar

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Contestar

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Contestar

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Contestar

  7. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger debajo de la cubierta del disipador de calor de goma en el ventilador derecho Desliza el spudger debajo de la longitud de la cubierta, liberando el adhesivo. Levanta la tapa y voltéala para que puedas acceder a los cables que están debajo.
    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger debajo de la cubierta del disipador de calor de goma en el ventilador derecho

    • Desliza el spudger debajo de la longitud de la cubierta, liberando el adhesivo.

    • Levanta la tapa y voltéala para que puedas acceder a los cables que están debajo.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Contestar

  8. Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador. Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos. Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía . de cables de plástico
    • Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador.

    • Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos.

    • Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía . de cables de plástico

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Contestar

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Contestar

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Contestar

  9. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta el conector de la tarjeta de E / S hacia afuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Al volver a armar, conecta este extremo primero ya que no es flexible. De forma similar, retira el conector de la placa de E / S de su zócalo en la placa de E / S. Retira el cable de la placa de E / S de la MacBook Pro.
    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta el conector de la tarjeta de E / S hacia afuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Al volver a armar, conecta este extremo primero ya que no es flexible.

    • De forma similar, retira el conector de la placa de E / S de su zócalo en la placa de E / S.

    • Retira el cable de la placa de E / S de la MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Contestar

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Contestar

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Contestar

  10. Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2,9 mm que fija la tarjeta AirPort a la placa lógica.
    • Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2,9 mm que fija la tarjeta AirPort a la placa lógica.

  11. Sujeta los lados delgados de la tarjeta AirPort y tira paralelo a la placa lógica, retirando la tarjeta AirPort de la MacBook Pro. Sujeta los lados delgados de la tarjeta AirPort y tira paralelo a la placa lógica, retirando la tarjeta AirPort de la MacBook Pro.
    • Sujeta los lados delgados de la tarjeta AirPort y tira paralelo a la placa lógica, retirando la tarjeta AirPort de la MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Contestar

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Contestar

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Contestar

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Contestar

  12. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zócalo ZIF del cable plano del ventilador derecho. Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zócalo ZIF del cable plano del ventilador derecho.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Comenzando en la parte superior del cable, desliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del cable del ventilador derecho para liberarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado al liberar el cable, ya que está fuertemente adherido a la placa lógica.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Contestar

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Contestar

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Contestar

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Contestar

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Contestar

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Contestar

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Contestar

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Contestar

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - Contestar

  13. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho a la placa lógica:
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho a la placa lógica:

    • Uno 4,4 mm tornillo Torx T5

    • Un 3,9 mm tornillo Torx T5 cabeza ancha

    • Uno 5,0 mm T5 tornillo Torx collar con 2 mm

  14. Levanta y quita el ventilador adecuado de la MacBook Pro.
    • Levanta y quita el ventilador adecuado de la MacBook Pro.

    • Cuando vuelvas a instalar el ventilador, es más fácil conectar el cable de cinta de ventilador al dejar caer el ventilador en su lugar, en vez de hacerlo luego de haber instalador los tres tornillos de ventilador.

  15. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la tapa del disipador de calor de goma del ventilador izquierdo.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la tapa del disipador de calor de goma del ventilador izquierdo.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Contestar

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Contestar

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Contestar

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Contestar

  16. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador izquierdo a la placa lógica:
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador izquierdo a la placa lógica:

    • Uno 4,4 mm tornillo Torx T5

    • Uno 5,0 mm T5 tornillo Torx collar con 2 mm.

    • Un 3,9 mm tornillo Torx T5 cabeza ancha

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Contestar

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Contestar

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Contestar

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Contestar

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Contestar

  17. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zif ZIF del cable de cinta del ventilador izquierdo. Asegúrate de estar prestando atención a la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí. Comenzando en la parte superior del cable, desliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del cable del ventilador izquierdo para liberarlo de la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zif ZIF del cable de cinta del ventilador izquierdo.

    • Asegúrate de estar prestando atención a la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Comenzando en la parte superior del cable, desliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del cable del ventilador izquierdo para liberarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado al liberar el cable, ya que está fuertemente adherido a la placa lógica. Si es necesario, usa un iOpener o secador de pelo para calentar el cable con el fin de ablandar el adhesivo y hacerlo más fácil de quitar.

    • Levanta el ventilador izquierdo fuera del dispositivo.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Contestar

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Contestar

    be nice, silly

    Richard RUNGE - Contestar

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Contestar

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Contestar

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Contestar

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - Contestar

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - Contestar

  18. Retira el solo tornillo Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que asegura la SSD a la placa lógica.
    • Retira el solo tornillo Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que asegura la SSD a la placa lógica.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Contestar

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Contestar

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Contestar

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Contestar

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Contestar

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - Contestar

  19. Levanta ligeramente el lado derecho de la SSD y deslízalo firmemente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Levanta ligeramente el lado derecho de la SSD y deslízalo firmemente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Levanta ligeramente el lado derecho de la SSD y deslízalo firmemente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  20. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el bloqueo del cable de datos de la placa de E / S y gíralo hacia el lado de la batería de la computadora. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para deslizar el cable de datos de la placa de E / S directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el bloqueo del cable de datos de la placa de E / S y gíralo hacia el lado de la batería de la computadora.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para deslizar el cable de datos de la placa de E / S directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la placa de E / S, ya que su toma es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Contestar

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Contestar

  21. Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que sujetan la placa de E / S a la placa lógica. Levanta con cuidado la placa de E / S y retírala de la carcasa inferior.
    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que sujetan la placa de E / S a la placa lógica.

    • Levanta con cuidado la placa de E / S y retírala de la carcasa inferior.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Contestar

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Contestar

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Contestar

  22. Usa el extremo plan o de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz derecho y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plan o de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica.

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz derecho y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la cabeza del cable, y no en el hueco. Si haces palanca en el hueco, se podría separar de la placa lógica.

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - Contestar

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - Contestar

  23. Saca cualquier cinta que cubra el conector  del cable plano del teclado Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado. Asegúrate de estar haciendo palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.
    • Saca cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del teclado

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    • Asegúrate de estar haciendo palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer McAuliffe - Contestar

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - Contestar

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - Contestar

    the tape actually helps remove the cable. Just hold the tape and pull it back towards the battery. The ribbon cable will slide right out. Easy. No tools needed.

    Pranav Singanapalli - Contestar

  24. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable plano del trackpad desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable plano del trackpad desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  25. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la luz posterior del teclado desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la luz posterior del teclado desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  26. Usa la punta de un spudger o la uña para levantar la aleta de retención en el  zócalo ZIF del cable plano de micrófono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o la uña para levantar la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano de micrófono.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Saca el cable plano del micrófono de su enchufe.

  27. Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora. Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.

    • Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

  28. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la tapa de rosca de goma de la cabeza del tornillo elevado cerca del conector MagSafe 2.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la tapa de rosca de goma de la cabeza del tornillo elevado cerca del conector MagSafe 2.

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - Contestar

    same thing for me too.

    William Corwin - Contestar

  29. Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior:
    • Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.1 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de plata de 5.5 mm con cabeza elevada

    • Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de plata de 3.8 mm

  30. Levantando desde el lado más cercano a la batería, gira la placa lógica hacia la parte superior de la MacBook Pro. Puede ser que debas deslizar la placa lógica unos pocos milímetros hacia la izquierda para que haya espacio libre para los puertos a lo largo del borde derecho de la placa.
    • Levantando desde el lado más cercano a la batería, gira la placa lógica hacia la parte superior de la MacBook Pro.

    • Puede ser que debas deslizar la placa lógica unos pocos milímetros hacia la izquierda para que haya espacio libre para los puertos a lo largo del borde derecho de la placa.

    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, empuja con cuidado el conector MagSafe 2 fuera de su zócalo en la parte inferior de la placa lógica.

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - Contestar

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Contestar

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - Contestar

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - Contestar

    My logic board is stuck on the audio, USB, and TB connectors and the chassis. Turned out it was connectors near the battery connector catching the logic board.

    Joseph Gorse - Contestar

    There’s one more connect next to the SSD socket, that I can’t find mentioned, and is hard to disconnect.

    Steven DeRose - Contestar

  31. Retira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica de la MacBook Pro. Al volver a instalar la placa madre, verifica que los cables estén visibles y no atrapados bajo la placa madre. En el sentido de las agujas del reloj desde la parte superior: batería, AirPort/cámara, pantalla, micrófono, altavoz izquierdo, teclado y panel táctil.
    • Retira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica de la MacBook Pro.

    • Al volver a instalar la placa madre, verifica que los cables estén visibles y no atrapados bajo la placa madre.

    • En el sentido de las agujas del reloj desde la parte superior: batería, AirPort/cámara, pantalla, micrófono, altavoz izquierdo, teclado y panel táctil.

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - Contestar

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - Contestar

  32. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo a la carcasa superior: Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6,9 ​​mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Levanta el altavoz izquierdo fuera de la caja superior y déjalo a un lado.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Contestar

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Contestar

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Contestar

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

  33. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho a la carcasa superior: Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6,9 ​​mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Retira el altavoz derecho de la MacBook Pro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

  34. Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.2 mm que sujetan la placa de la batería.
    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.2 mm que sujetan la placa de la batería.

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    lamajr - Contestar

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Contestar

  35. El removedor de adhesivo líquido provisto en tu kit puede afectar el recubrimiento antirreflectante en la pantalla de su MacBook Pro.
    • El removedor de adhesivo líquido provisto en tu kit puede afectar el recubrimiento antirreflectante en la pantalla de su MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de papel de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjala allí mientras trabajas.

  36. Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y sosténlo ligeramente, usando un bloque de espuma o un libro resistente. En los siguientes pasos, aplicarás un removedor de adhesivo líquido en el borde derecho (exterior) de la batería. Mantener este lado de la MacBook Pro elevado ayudará a que el removedor de adhesivo fluya por debajo de la batería.
    • Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y sosténlo ligeramente, usando un bloque de espuma o un libro resistente.

    • En los siguientes pasos, aplicarás un removedor de adhesivo líquido en el borde derecho (exterior) de la batería. Mantener este lado de la MacBook Pro elevado ayudará a que el removedor de adhesivo fluya por debajo de la batería.

  37. Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está completamente preparada, es hora de prepararse. El removedor de adhesivo iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve para la piel y los ojos.
    • Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está completamente preparada, es hora de prepararse.

    • El removedor de adhesivo iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve para la piel y los ojos.

    • Usa protección para los ojos cuando maneje y aplique el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección ocular está incluida en su kit).

    • No uses lentes de contacto sin protección para los ojos.

    • Los guantes protectores también están incluidos en tu kit. Si te preocupa una posible irritación de la piel, ponte los guantes ahora.

  38. Abre tu contenedor de removedor de adhesivo. Llena la jeringa incluida en su kit con una pequeña cantidad (aproximadamente 1-2 mililitros) de removedor de adhesivo Esto abre la botella y permite que la presión se equilibre antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si omites este paso, el removedor de adhesivo podría salir disparado de manera inesperada cuando cortas la punta.
    • Abre tu contenedor de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Llena la jeringa incluida en su kit con una pequeña cantidad (aproximadamente 1-2 mililitros) de removedor de adhesivo

    • Esto abre la botella y permite que la presión se equilibre antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si omites este paso, el removedor de adhesivo podría salir disparado de manera inesperada cuando cortas la punta.

    • Usa tijeras para cortar la punta sellada del aplicador.

    • Cortar en la parte de la punta que está más angosta te dará mejor control para que puedas aplicar el removedor de adhesivo en pequeñas cantidades.

    • Tuerce y cierra la tapa de la botella de forma segura antes de proceder.

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - Contestar

  39. Aplica unas pequeñas gotas de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la celda externa derecha de la batería. No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más de la mitad de la cantidad de solvente necesario para remover las celdas de la batería.
    • Aplica unas pequeñas gotas de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la celda externa derecha de la batería.

    • No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más de la mitad de la cantidad de solvente necesario para remover las celdas de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre debajo de la celda de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

  40. Deslizae una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde exterior de la celda de la batería. Puedes' ayudar girar suavemente la tarjeta para abrir un pequeño espacio entre la celda de la batería y la funda del MacBook Pro. Desliza la tarjeta más adentro por debajo de la celda de la batería para separarla del adhesivo que la sujeta a la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro.
    • Deslizae una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde exterior de la celda de la batería.

    • Puedes' ayudar girar suavemente la tarjeta para abrir un pequeño espacio entre la celda de la batería y la funda del MacBook Pro.

    • Desliza la tarjeta más adentro por debajo de la celda de la batería para separarla del adhesivo que la sujeta a la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro.

  41. Levanta la celda de la batería para separarla de la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro, pero no intentes quitarla. Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería para evitar que vuelva a adherirse a medida que avanza al siguiente paso.
    • Levanta la celda de la batería para separarla de la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro, pero no intentes quitarla.

    • Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería para evitar que vuelva a adherirse a medida que avanza al siguiente paso.

  42. Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo  de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la siguiente celda de la batería. Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre debajo de la celda de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.
    • Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la siguiente celda de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre debajo de la celda de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

  43. Desliza una esquina de tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de la segunda celda de la batería. Empuja la tarjeta debajo de la segunda celda de la batería y deslízala de lado a lado para separar el adhesivo debajo. Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de ambas celdas de la batería (o dala vuelta) para evitar que vuelvan a adherirse a medida que avanzas al siguiente paso.
    • Desliza una esquina de tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de la segunda celda de la batería.

    • Empuja la tarjeta debajo de la segunda celda de la batería y deslízala de lado a lado para separar el adhesivo debajo.

    • Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de ambas celdas de la batería (o dala vuelta) para evitar que vuelvan a adherirse a medida que avanzas al siguiente paso.

  44. Es hora de cambiar de lado. Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma y colócala debajo del lado opuesto de tu MacBook Pro. Repite el procedimiento de los pasos anteriores para separar las dos celdas de la batería en este lado: Aplica tu removedor de adhesivo al borde elevado de la celda de la batería externa, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre
    • Es hora de cambiar de lado. Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma y colócala debajo del lado opuesto de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Repite el procedimiento de los pasos anteriores para separar las dos celdas de la batería en este lado:

    • Aplica tu removedor de adhesivo al borde elevado de la celda de la batería externa, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre

    • Trabaja una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería, y desliza la tarjeta completamente debajo de la celda de la batería para separarla.

    • Haz lo mismo con la celda adyacente.

    • Deja la tarjeta de plástico en su lugar o voltea las celdas de la batería para evitar que vuelvan a adherirse durante los siguientes pasos.

  45. Con el borde izquierdo de tu MacBook Pro aún apuntalado, aplica unas pequeñas gotas de removedor de adhesivo por la línea central entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería. Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.
    • Con el borde izquierdo de tu MacBook Pro aún apuntalado, aplica unas pequeñas gotas de removedor de adhesivo por la línea central entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.

  46. Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico entre las dos celdas centrales, y debajo del borde elevado de la celda de batería de centro derecha. Desliza la tarjeta más adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar. No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.
    • Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico entre las dos celdas centrales, y debajo del borde elevado de la celda de batería de centro derecha.

    • Desliza la tarjeta más adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.

    • No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.

  47. Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central. Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central. Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central.
    • Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central.

  48. Empuja una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo del marco de plástico de la batería y debajo del borde adherido restante de la celda central inferior. No hagas palanca a lo largo del borde más cercano al conector de la batería, o corres el riesgo de dañar el cable plano del teclado.
    • Empuja una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo del marco de plástico de la batería y debajo del borde adherido restante de la celda central inferior.

    • No hagas palanca a lo largo del borde más cercano al conector de la batería, o corres el riesgo de dañar el cable plano del teclado.

    • Desliza tu tarjeta por completo debajo de la celda de la batería y déjala para evitar que la celda de batería se vuelva a adherir.

  49. Retira la primera tarjeta de plástico que insertó debajo de la celda de la batería de centro derecha. Retira la primera tarjeta de plástico que insertó debajo de la celda de la batería de centro derecha.
    • Retira la primera tarjeta de plástico que insertó debajo de la celda de la batería de centro derecha.

  50. Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma. Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y apóyalo una vez más.
    • Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma.

    • Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y apóyalo una vez más.

  51. Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería, de modo que fluya por debajo de la celda restante de la batería. Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.
    • Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería, de modo que fluya por debajo de la celda restante de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.

  52. Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde elevado de la celda final de la batería. Empuja la tarjeta más hacia adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar. No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.
    • Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde elevado de la celda final de la batería.

    • Empuja la tarjeta más hacia adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.

    • No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.

  53. Repita el proceso que utilizaste en la celda de la batería de centro derecha para terminar de separar el adhesivo en la celda de centro izquierda:
    • Repita el proceso que utilizaste en la celda de la batería de centro derecha para terminar de separar el adhesivo en la celda de centro izquierda:

    • Levanta y voltea las dos celdas de la batería externa para liberar el acceso al borde adherido restante de la celda de la batería de centro izquierda.

    • Desliza tu tarjeta por completo debajo de la celda de la batería y déjala para evitar que la celda de batería se vuelva a adherir.

    • Retira la primera tarjeta que insertaste debajo de esta celda de batería en el paso anterior.

  54. Con una tarjeta de plástico debajo de cada una de las dos celdas centrales de la batería, gira y levanta ambas tarjetas para separar completamente las celdas de la batería, junto con el marco de plástico y la placa de la batería, de la MacBook Pro. Con una tarjeta de plástico debajo de cada una de las dos celdas centrales de la batería, gira y levanta ambas tarjetas para separar completamente las celdas de la batería, junto con el marco de plástico y la placa de la batería, de la MacBook Pro.
    • Con una tarjeta de plástico debajo de cada una de las dos celdas centrales de la batería, gira y levanta ambas tarjetas para separar completamente las celdas de la batería, junto con el marco de plástico y la placa de la batería, de la MacBook Pro.

    I have managed to slice through the trackpad cable on the final step of battery removal.

    Can the trackpad be replaced without having to replace the whole system case?

    Darrell Haslam - Contestar

  55. Levanta y quita la batería. Antes de instalar tu batería nueva, quita todo el adhesivo viejo de la funda del MacBook Pro.
    • Levanta y quita la batería.

    • Antes de instalar tu batería nueva, quita todo el adhesivo viejo de la funda del MacBook Pro.

    • Con un poco de suerte, puedes sacar lentamente cada tira de adhesivo con los dedos.

    • De lo contrario, remoja cada tira de adhesivo con un poco de removedor de adhesivo durante 2-3 minutos, y luego raspa con una herramienta de plástico. Esto puede tomar bastante trabajo, así que sé paciente.

    • Limpia cualquier removedor de adhesivo restante y dale a tu MacBook Pro unos minutos para que se seque al aire.

    • La batería de repuesto incluida en tu kit iFixit viene con adhesivo preinstalado. Prueba el ajuste y la alineación de la batería con cuidado antes de despegar la película que cubre el adhesivo, y luego presione cada celda firmemente en su lugar. Si hay películas / revestimientos adicionales que no estaban en su batería original, quítalos ahora.

    • Calibra tu batería nueva. Cárgala hasta el 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si observas algún comportamiento inusual o problemas después de instalar tu batería nueva, es posible que tengas que restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Jeff Suovanen

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I just replaced my battery successfully using a modification of this method: follow step 1-4, then 34, then remove the battery pack using thread (or dental floss as in my case), as shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . If you use dental floss, make sure you at least quadruple it to have enough strength, and tie around two screwdrivers at the ends, otherwise it can be pretty painful. Finally, use a very small amount of the adhesive remover liquid to help fully remove the adhesive strips (making sure it doesn't go anywhere else), and install the new battery (step 54)!

Marino Pagan - Contestar

Yeah, this method works great. Just wear gloves or your fingers might die.

Thank you for this recommendation!

felix schaetzler -

I just replaced my battery and it's working fine!! But now all the right side of my mac won't work... HDMI, USB and CARD READER, but I'm sure i need to check it again I I'm sure forgot to connect the cable...I guess! but overall I dealt with it and I'm really proud. Thanks IFIXIT. I would send a firmer screw piece number 5 because it starts to peel off metal as soon as you start using it. But I really like your website and every guide you have are really well explained! Thanks a lot for making me save money to go to a store to have it fixed.

Gaston Dalmau - Contestar

Indeed! There was a cable not connected !Works like a charm! Thanks again

Gaston Dalmau - Contestar

Just finished the battery replacement following these instructions to the letter… at times I wanted to listen to some commentators that said x step wasn’t necessary or that doing something broke something else. Trust me- every step is necessary to do this right, and everything works just as it did before! Thanks so much for the excellent guide!

The airport card re-connection was the hard… but even more difficult was making sure all the connectors were not under the logic board before screwing it back down… I had to undo my work two times because I missed the back light connector and the track-pad ribbon cable!

Hints for those that tackle this themselves: The pictures of the screw removal were extremely helpful… print out the pictures of the steps where you remove screws and put the screws in the places where you removed them on the picture… OR draw boxes for the screw removal steps on a sheet of paper and lay the screws out in the relative positions that you removed them!

Eric Kitchens - Contestar

Great tutorial! I recommend buying two T5 screwdrivers as I stripped one of them and thankfully I had a backup. I still had to drill one screw though.

Pete - Contestar

I just did this using the string method. I dipped the string (cooking twine) into rubbing alcohol and went to work. I wore dishwashing gloves for grip. It took me less than 10 minutes with minimal effort, working slowly and carefully. The removal was very clean. You will need a pentalobe screwdriver to take off the bottom cover and a T5 screwdriver to remove the two torx screws that secure the battery. Installation was easy. Laptop is working! I have to say that this doesn’t look like an OEM part. It does work though.

Kim Nguyen - Contestar

Very well written. My installation went very well until I discovered that the end of the data cable between the i/o board and the main board had come off. I had to go from steps 3-29 all over again to reattach it. But now it is all back together and working.

peteyx - Contestar

Just made it. Took me 15 minutes. The hardest part was to remove the rests of adhesive after removing the battery.

I just needed the screwdriver and a 2-3mm tearproof thread. I first tried floss, but it was too flimsy. Turns out, thicker thread is better because you can apply much more force without cutting into your hands. With that it only takes seconds to pull one battery off, about 2 minutes for all 6. No chemicals required.

You also don’t have to unscrew all the things, just the bottom case and the two screws that hold the battery controller in place.

Stephan Hoyer - Contestar

Great tutorial!! Thank you very much. I just finished working through this to replace the battery on my co-worker’s MacBook Pro, and everything worked as expected. Keep up the good fight, iFixit!

manwithfire - Contestar

Guide was mainly well written. I was able to replace my battery in about 2.5 hours using this guide. I would recommend updating step 21 to remove one of the screws attached to the heat sink to help remove the I/O board and step 30 to remove the MagSafe screws before removing the logic board.

Christopher Hofmann - Contestar

Looking at Marino’s comment from July 2017, I would like to get opinions, both pro and con, about skipping steps 5 to 23. I am replacing the battery only and some of the steps for removing various connectors sound a bit nerve racking.

Charles Larkins - Contestar

A complete teardown like this is very risky unless you have a high level of confidence and experience with doing teardowns on integrated laptops, which often have narrower clearances and more fragile parts than older, bulkier style laptops. As you can see below someone who is Apple Certified and Comptia A+ has expressed having issues with this. In my opinion taking the laptop apart like this for this battery replacement is the last option. The first, if you have little experience is to have someone else do it. The second, if you have confidence with isolating the battery compartment safely for adhesive removal is to follow only the steps required for removing the battery itself, and the third is to follow this guide.

flournnoi -

Part 1: I bought a genuine Apple part for this and followed this document, using an antistatic mat and also iFixit tools. When I finished the Mac would not power up. It took it apart several times, went over everything and could not find a reason why it would not power up. Tried an SMC reset, the LED on the Magsafe charger changes from amber to green and then back to amber but the Mac still does not boot. You notice in the article that the battery is bonded to the top case , you need to use a solution to break the adhesion then carefully remove the battery ? Apple do not do this. They sell the top case as a complete unit and once you have removed the battery from the top case they class it as a third party or unskilled repair and they take no part in it. This means if you then go to an Authorised Service Provider they will quote stock price for any parts, this means the part they replace can not be sent back to Apple. Apple stores will flatly refuse to help you.

Bob Murray - Contestar

Part 2: so now I have a mac that will not power up. Both Apple and the service provider have said I need either a new top case or a logic board. The charges for this are staggering, the Apple Store are simply not interested in helping. I asked the person I bought the battery from if they had experienced this before, I got it on ebay , and their response was pure aggression towards me so I did not pursue it any more. I am Apple certified and Comptia A+ so I have a lot of repair experience, just not ACMT. I have all the tools and patience to follow what I saw as something relatively simple.

My advise is beware before you attempt to follow this article because I was better off with a working Mac with poor battery performance.

Bob Murray - Contestar

@bob_reno Sorry to hear this. It’s hard to know what might have gone wrong, but one possibility is the battery itself—we’ve seen many an unfortunate MacBook fried by sketchy eBay batteries. Given the response from the seller, I wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case. Thanks for sharing, and better luck with your next repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello,

See step 9 of this guide.

I had the same symptoms as you. When I opened the case to investigate what I had missed, I discovered that I had installed the IO Board Cable backwards. After I disconnected the cable and reinstalled it in the correct orientation, the laptop booted without issues.

I advise that you check the orientation of your IO board cable. It should not overlap the blades of the fan.

Maybe you are having a different issue. I hope this helps.

Thomas Colley -

The riskiness level of this approach is way too high relative to the basic requirements of replacing the battery. This is pretty much a teardown which is not necessary for battery replacement. Yes, you will need to use some type of adhesive removal which is risky near the other components of the computer, but way less risky than this complete teardown.

flournnoi - Contestar

There is no reason to basically dismantle the entire computer to remove the battery. The only explanation I can come up with for this idiocy is that iFixit is desperate for people to buy their fix kits rather than just a battery itself from any number of other vendors.

Ethan Payne - Contestar

@ethanpayne The reason for doing it this way, as explained at the beginning of the guide, is that the solvent can damage the speakers—and it’s very difficult to get enough solvent under the battery without it contacting the speakers. To get the speakers out of the way, you have to first remove the logic board. If you prefer a different method, that’s fine—feel free to write your own guide. This guide is free, and no one is forcing you to buy our stuff.

Jeff Suovanen -

This is a beautiful teardown guide—but totally unnecessary if you just need to replace the battery. I was able to do so on a MBP mid 2014 15” just by passing a piece of mason’s twine under each section of the battery to cut the adhesive, which is really just double-sided tape. The remainder peeled off easily with a flat spudger. No solvent needed. I would have bought the battery and tools from iFixit but they wouldn’t ship to my location so I had to buy a battery on eBay. Works great. Total time around 20 minutes and no risky teardown of all those tiny fragile components, and no need to remove the logic board.

upcountry - Contestar

I used this guide, as I always do for dismantling Apple products, to replace an inflated battery. If you have this issue, its still easy to do with a couple of minor differences. #1 - you’ll make life easier if you put some of the adhesive remover on the ends of the cards as you begin to remove the 4 middle batteries. Because the batteries are bloated, the edges (while more exposed) will require a bit more push to get underneath. And #2 - you cannot get the solvent in the middle of the 2 center batteries in most cases. This is where #1 comes in as you can get the adhesive remover into the exposed sides to allow the solvent to do its job. All in all, thats all that I needed to do in order replace my bloated battery with the new one. It works great!

Brad Stossel - Contestar

Le kit complet et le tutoriel sont parfaits. Démontage et remontage en 1 h 30, sans soucis ni frayeur. Mais bien entendu, suivre strictement pas à pas ce tutoriel, aucune image n’est inutile !!!

Luc-Henri Fage - Contestar

I just completed the battery replacement in my mid 2014 Macbook Pro retina with a bulging battery. I pretty much followed Marino Pagan’s suggestion from 07/06/2017! The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... gives you the basics, but I have a few suggestions.

1. Use the type of string shown in the video. Even with the bulging battery I had no issue getting the thicker string under each battery.

2. Don’t just pull both sides of string towards you really hard like shown in the video. I used a long piece of string and pulled somewhat gently from one side at a time, and towards the front at like a 45 degree angle. I pulled the string to one side, leaving enough to grab and pull back the other way. By alternating from side to side like this, the friction of the string and the minor amount of pull towards the front did all the work.

3. You have to do the same thing on the middle two batteries as well! The video cuts off with the poster not knowing what to do about them. Do the same string thing!

craig - Contestar

I just replaced a battery using the string technique and it went great . Battery had over 1000 cycles, no bloating. I used the “thick” string like in the video - smooth multi-strand string that I use with a string level outdoors. I moistened the string with the iFixit solvent (a mix of IPA and acetone) and pulled it through with a gentle side to side motion. I had no problems with batteries sticking back down, though I initially used the cards to prevent it. Most of the residual tape pulled up cleanly, and I dissolved the residual adhesive with small amounts of solvent. The total amount of solvent I used was very small - the bottle is still nearly full (I didn’t check the level at the start, but it’s about 7/8 of the main bottle).

On one battery (central pair, left one) a piece of plastic unfolded to make it hard to get under, and the string dried out while I was doing that. Dry string is very hard to pull through, but just moistened with the solvent made it easy again.

lindensmith -

I just did a second battery replacement on an identical model using fishing line (30 lb test) and no solvent instead of the string and solvent. It went about the same - the fishing line cut through the adhesive tape maybe a little easier, but also requires a little more care because you can slice your fingers with it. I wrapped it around two short screwdriver stems. It helps to wind it up so you have only a short length to work with and use your thumbs to push the case while pulling the line. It went through the tape easily, but left it stuck a little harder so it took longer to remove the last bits. Isopropyl alcohol (91%) works almost as well as the acetone/isopropyl mix in the ifixit kit. Using the spudger to peel up the tape helps - a few pieces came up nearly intact with no residue on the case. Having done two now, I definitely think string/fishing line to separate the batteries is the way to go.

lindensmith -

Thorough easy to follow instructions. Thanks!

Melkamu Agonafer - Contestar

I’ve completed the installation. I’ve stand in doubt if i should take the short way from the youtube ( that one without removing all parts). But i decided to play it safe, and done it like in this article, wit only one minor change. At Step 30, it’s said to remove magsafe connector, which it’s very hard to remove it, much simpler is to unscrew the magsafe entirely.

So, everything was ok. Thanks for the tutorial

manoleb - Contestar

I just completed the install. I used the steps provided in this write up and experienced no hang ups. Install took about 2 very cautious hours and included a nice cleaning of the case following the removal of the Logic Board and Battery. Hoping for another 4 years with this computer - thanks Ifixit!

Timothy Baber - Contestar

I’m about to embark on this marathon job, but I was wondering, for those of you who have a bloated battery, what is your cycle count at the time of needing to replace the battery. I use mine with it plugged into AC power most of the time, so I’m not charging discharging on a regular basis. My cycle count is only 113, when the battery should theoretically support up to a 1000. I’ve had my machine from new in Nov 2014, so its just over 4 years old. Is a bloated battery caused by low cycle count? Thanks.

Plastikfan - Contestar

On a different model macbook I got a bloated battery from leaving it connected to the charger all the time and never discharging. I wasn’t traveling, so it never really got unplugged and discharged. The bloating isn’t necessarily from low cycle count as from extended periods staying on charge - it was replaced under warranty and they recommended taking it off charge and letting it run down at least once a month. The replacement has continued to function for many years.

lindensmith -

…. I should also note that as I don’t use the inbuilt track much, it took a long while to notice the bloating battery. It was probably boated at least a year ago, because I noticed that the click of the trackpad wasn’t as precise as it should be but I ignored it for some time.

Plastikfan - Contestar

Did the upgrade last weekend. I can confirm the method with the twisted nylon utility line worked for me best. No need to remove all parts and no need to use any dis-solvent.

1. Watch the youtube videos how to place and pull the line

2. Discharge the batteries completely to be safe.

3. Work slowly and carefully without bending the batteries.

4. Once removed, clean the surface with IPA and place the new batteries in place

Took me around 2 hours in total and new batteries are working fine. Thanks iFixit!

niki1999 - Contestar

Is there a case for this guideline to be updated and dramatically reduced to use the string method as shown on youtube rather than dismantling the entire machine and incurring all the risks that entails?

Plastikfan - Contestar

I just finished and it’s working fine. I used the video suggested earlier in the comments - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... I used fishing line and wore gloves. I did not use the solvent at all. I left peeled up the left over tape, but didn’t get all the residue up as I didn’t want to use chemicals and risk the electronics. The middle batteries are a little tricker to get the fishing line under, but you can do them one at a time, too.

John Quillen - Contestar

I just changed the battery but used a couple strings soaked with the anti-adhesive liquid I stead of taking the whole thing apart. I didn’t want to risk breaking any connector or have troubles putting g everything back together.

It worked perfectly, I just cut my fingers with the string as the glue was hard to cut through/remove. But other than that, it went well, didn’t take much more than an hour and everything works perfectly again

Quentin Décaillet - Contestar

There is a thin metal cover between the battery and the trackpad. It is very easy to accidentally pull it off with the batteries. Step 53 - when you slide the plastic card in from the outside edge, it’s quite easy to misjudge and get it under the cover.

If that happens you are likely to bend it into a pretzel and be unable to reinstall it. This seems to be fine. However - the new cells will have adhesive in the center of them that was meant to adhere to the metal cover. If you do not reinstall the metal cover because you bent it up, that adhesive will stick to the back of the trackpad and keep it from working - basically it will seem that the button is always depressed.

Obviously the best fix is not to accidentally pull up the metal cover - but if, like I did, you ruin it before you figure out that it wasn’t part of the battery assembly after all, my advice is to not remove the adhesive from the center of the two cells. Cut the backing material and only expose the outer edges.

steve - Contestar

I used the thread-method, too. Thanks for the comments pointing to this. There’s really no need to disassemble all the boards!

I used a 2mm thread tied to two small wrenches so I could apply the necessary pulling force to cut through the adhesive. It also helps to fix a rest of some sort to the front of your work bench using C-clamps to have something to pull against when working the thread under the batteries.

My batteries had already started swelling and kept expanding after removing the bottom cover, so I didn’t really feel like prying them loose using the solvent method. Keep in mind to be extra careful when handling swollen batteries. They can ignite any minute when punctured. I suggest putting your macbook on a fire blanket so you can throw the side flaps over it quickly if anything goes wrong.

J. Scriba - Contestar

Hi, I finished to replacement the battery, but I have two problem. The fans turn very strong and the the mac is very slow. I tried to reset the sms, but I haven’t solved it.

Could you help me?

Thank you

Daniele Peri - Contestar

I solved the problem. The cable in step 9 was not well connected. Thank you for the guide.

Daniele Peri -

I also used the fishing-wire “cheese-cutter” method and recommend it! I performed steps 1-4, and used the garrote to free each cell away from the tape, then used q-tips dipped in acetone for adhesive residue cleanup. My original battery was swollen (trackpad wouldn’t click anymore). The swelling had already torn some of the tape, but what remained was still strong. Skipping full disassembly saved me a lot of worry and aggravation. The internal connectors are tiny, fragile and get brittle over time, I didn’t want to risk damaging them. The whole repair took about two hours (including photos and adhesive cleanup). I think it would have taken at least 6 hours if I’d attempted a full disassembly. I used an OWC-brand replacement battery. My MacBook Pro started right up first try! It took another twelve hours to properly condition the new battery (charge fully, discharge fully, sit for five hours, then charge fully again). My old mid-2014 15” retina MacBook Pro is as good as new again!

Donald Aehl - Contestar

Just over a year ago I replaced the battery in our MacBook Pro (mid 2014) where I read the comments and saw it could be done without all 55 sections. The short cut worked just as well and the job was completed successfully.

Unfortunately the battery that came with the repair kit started swelling also after only 1-year and 4-months. That sucks. So here I am again replacing the battery once again, but this time I decided to take the long route just to have fun taking the laptop completely apart. It went well, and we are up and running again.

As an added note, I purchased my replacement battery on eBay this time as it was the exact same battery by Apple (made in China), and it was less than half the price as the ones sold on iFixit.com and it came with free shipping. Big savings.

Danny Williams - Contestar

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