Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para revivir la duración y el rendimiento de la batería de tu iPhone SE 2020 con una nueva batería. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma las precauciones adecuadas.
Esta guía te indica que debes desmontar completamente el ensamblaje de la pantalla. El objetivo es evitar que los cables de la pantalla se dañen accidentalmente. Si te sientes cómodo quitando la batería sin ejercer una tensión excesiva en los cables de la pantalla, puedes omitir los pasos para desmontar la pantalla. Además, si bien es posible retirar las tiras adhesivas que aseguran la batería tan pronto como abra el teléfono, en esta guía se recomienda retirar primero el Motor Taptic. Al hacerlo, se reduce el riesgo de romper las tiras adhesivas inferiores accidentalmente, ya sea enganchándolas en el Taptic Engine o tirando de las tiras en un ángulo demasiado agudo.
Para un rendimiento óptimo, después de completar esta guía, calibra tu batería recién instalada: Cárgala al 100% y sigue cargándola durante al menos dos horas más. Luego usa tu iPhone hasta que se apague debido a batería baja. Finalmente, cárgalo sin interrupción al 100%.
Qué necesitas
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Retira los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3,5 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.
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La apertura de la pantalla del iPhone comprometerá sus sellos de impermeabilidad. Ten listos los sellos de repuesto antes de seguir adelante con este paso, o ten cuidado de evitar la exposición a líquidos si vuelve a ensamblar su iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.
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Mide 3 mm desde la punta, y marca dicha distancia sobre la púa de apertura usando un rotulador permanente.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
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Coloca varias cintas sobrepuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta que toda la cara este cubierta.
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Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa de succión se pegue en los siguientes pasos, dobla una pieza fuerte de cinta (como cinta de aislar) en un pequeño maneral y levanta la pantalla con eso.
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Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.
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Coloca las ventosas cerca del borde inferior del iPhone, justo encima del botón de inicio (una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
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Aprieta las ventosas para aplicar succión en la zona deseada.
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Empuja la manija azul hacia delante para fijar las abrazaderas.
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Gira la manija 360 grados en sentido horario o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a apretarse.
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Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre si. Si comienzan a desalinearse, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
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Calienta un iOpener y colócalo entre las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Puedes usar una secadora de cabello, pistola de calor, o una placa caliente — pero el calor extremo puede dañar el display y/o batería interna, así que procede con precaución.
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Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo pueda soltarse y presente una grieta.
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Inserta una púa de apertura en la grieta
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Salta los próximos tres pasos.
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Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a soltar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.
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Usa un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del teléfono durante aproximadamente 90 segundos para soltar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!
I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.
I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.
I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.
The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.
I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!
No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?
Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .
. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!
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Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!
Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun
iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.
If you don't have the anti-clamp device, to prevent the screen from tearing open when suctioning it, I suggest some layers of tape around it and the back of the phone (the tape has to be stretchy enough to just minimise the momentum when separating the screen), or some big rubberbands
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Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.
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Inserta un púa de apertura en el espacio.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.
I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.
Suction cup pliers. Dead easy
After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!
The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.
I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.
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Desliza la púa de apertura hacia arriba por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.
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Detente cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
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I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.
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Vuelve a insertar tu herramienta en la esquina inferior derecha del iPhone, y deslízala alrededor de la esquina y hacia arriba del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo.
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Desliza una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda y a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.
This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!
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Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.
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Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerlo apuntalado mientras está trabajando con el teléfono.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.
If you're skipping the screen and taptic engine removal like I did, I suggest you tape the back of the phone to the table, and also tape the screen to the vertical object it lays on, so it stays still. That way you will avoid having to constantly readjust it because of the sliding of the housing of the phone when you're working on it. Be careful where you're putting the tape on the screen though, if you're doing it on the internal components.
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica, de los siguientes largos:
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Dos tornillos 1,3 mm
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Dos tornillos 2,8 mm
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Remueve el soporte.
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws
It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.
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Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su cuenca en la placa lógica.
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Dobla el cable de conector de batería ligeramente fuera de la placa lógica para prevenir que haga contacto accidentalmente con la cuenca y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.
Jeff -
So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.
I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago
If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.
The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):
This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck
The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.
Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.
Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.
Dan Knight
That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.
But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.
I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.
Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?
It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!
The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.
Make sure the new battery connector cable has similar length and width to the one of the original battery. I got a third party battery and the cable was longer and not folded in a "U" way near the connector, like the one in the genuine battery was, only folded at a 90 degree angle. That "U" actually perfectly fits in the small space between battery and connector port, so the cable doesn't stick up thus making connecting it or closing the screen impossible. So fold the cable, connect it, and while holding it to prevent it from disconnecting, stick the battery so the "U" curve of the cable sits down just between battery and connector port.
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Utiliza el punto de un spudger para levantar el conector inferior de pantalla del su cuenca.
I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?
You need to buy a new screen
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Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujetan el soporte sobre el conector de ensamblaje del sensor del panel frontal.
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Remueve el soporte.
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
Mine too? Any help?
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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Utiliza la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de ensamblaje del sensor de panel frontal.
Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly
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Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.
I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.
I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).
I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)
Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method
- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery
- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.
- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.
Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly
I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.
I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible
Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.
Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.
For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.
In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.
But the replacement worked.
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Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan el soporte al lado del motor táptico:
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Un tornillo Y000 de 1.3 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.7 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.9 mm
My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.
I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.
Hey William!
We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.
since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.
My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.
Hi Gary,
The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.
Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.
Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…
Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.
Kann es sein das dieser Schritt falsch ist? Ich habe einen Y000 Schraubendreher aus dem Iphone 7 Set. Der passt aber nicht bei der roten Schraube.
The new part I received had two Phillips screws, so when you're doing the reverse, you may need to remove the screws from the new part before putting the old screws in, everything fit together otherwise
I really hope you guys not to skip these steps. it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.
The Y000 screw has an extremely shallow head and the screwdriver provided in the kit I used couldn't grip it at all. I skipped the entire taptic removal and was able to remove the adhesive with it in place by warming the phone then wrapping the end of the adhesive strips around a small screwdriver and gently rolling them out and away.
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Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo del cable flexible de antena para mantener el zócalo hacía abajo.
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Usa la punta de tu spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable flexible de la antena de su zócalo, utilizando la púa de apertura para mantener el zócalo hacia abajo.
Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.
Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.
I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks
Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics
dave -
I agree jgrsf
I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.
I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.
dl7utx -
I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.
Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.
i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you
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Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el motor táptico:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.1mm
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Un tornillo separador de 2.1 mm
Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?
It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.
When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!
Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).
Thanks! This really saved the day for me.
I just used a sharp knife for the orange one
I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.
Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…
During reassembly, I inserted the stand-off screw by holding it with the provided tweezers and pushing it into place with the pointed spudger. While still pushing down with the pointed spudger to keep it from falling over, I turned the stand-off screw using the tweezers until it was firmly seated enough to let go of the spuder without the screw falling over. Then I was able to switch over to my 2.4mm flathead screwdriver and tighten it down. Otherwise the screw was jumping all over the place, magnetically attracted to the other components.
Disappointing that the stand-off screw bit was not provided with the kit. I expect better from iFixit.
It appears that some aspects of the iPhone SE 2022 (3rd gen SE) began to appear in later versions of the 2020 model. I have an SE 2020 (A2275) that has a grounding clip anchored by the Phillips screw on LH side of the Taptic engine. This clip was not present in the original SE 2020 and thus, doesn’t appear in the images for this step. If you want to get a good look at the clip’s location and orientation follow these links to the corresponding steps in the iFixit guide for the 3rd gen model and Apple's own repair guide.
SE 2022 (3rd gen) Lighting Connector Replacement -- Step 27
Apple iPhone Repair Manual for SE 2022 (3rd gen) -- See bottom of page 49
THANK YOU ! I looked through the photos again and again and didn’t find this little thing on them.. now I finally know where to place it :-)
Fabian -
I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.
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Usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar el conector del cable de la antena y alejarlo del conector debajo de él.
Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.
Yep, I did find it too. Thanks
Hola,
Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?
Gracias
I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).
I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.
I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.
I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.
Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics
dave -
What on earth is the secret to reconnecting the Taptic Engine?
I have been messing with it for hours.
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Usa la punta de tu spudger para levantar y desconectar el cable flexible del motor táptico.
I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).
My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.
Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(
I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!
On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.
on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!
There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!
You can’t take the engine off yet!!
I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?
James -
A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.
Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks
Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.
Be careful -- there are two cable connectors stacked on top of each other here, and you want to attach the taptic engine to the bottom one. When reattaching the taptic engine connector, make sure that the antenna connector is pulled back -- it is designed to sit right above the connector for the taptic engine, and just by memory it rests back in the same spot. Without reviewing the previous step in reverse, it would be easy to attempt to connect to the top socket, potentially causing damage.
There’s two cables here that are almost impossible to separate. I put some effort on the haptic cable and it immediately sheared off. I have no idea how you’re supposed to properly separate them
The reassembly is very difficult. The connector needs to be closer to the taptic engine than what the stiff ribbon allows. I had to bend the ribbon a bit with tweezers to narrow the gap between the connector and the taptic engine so that the connector would meet with the slot... after I spent half an hour trying to coax it.
I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.
Be careful the taptic engine cable is less then paper thin and tears with less resistance then a peice of paper, use extreme caution!!!!!
i ripped mine and after taking it out and testing the strength of the cable it took less force to tare then tearing a sheet of paper.
there is plenty of room for this cable to be three times as thick with no interference, this is just anti repair design.Taptic engine is hard to put back
Having the phone orientation taptic at the bottom, I used a pick vertically to the right of the connector (to the right of the stand off screw) to align the connector to the right place, then press it into place, glad that the pick is near the exact thickness needed to align the connector
Very difficult to reattach haptic ribbon into socket.
You have to use spluger tip on one side of ribbon connector (wedge on edge of connector) and push it towards the Taptic Engine.
Once the connector pushed against it and while the spluger is still in place holding it in position, then use other hand to gently push connector down to connect
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Remueve el motor táptico
Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.
So glad someone else mentioned this. This piece may be a late model revision. Looks like it adds additional grounding to a point on the frame. It's easy to misplace!
Demetri -
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.
Hi Anne,
The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.
When putting this back, if yours sounds too loud or odd. tightening the screws is what fixed it for me, don't forget the bottom one where you have to use a flathead screw driver or what they suggested can use if you don't have the screw driver or bit for it. took me a bit to realize i didn't tighten that one. was a pain to get the connector back but see why its useful, the adhesives all ripped on me.
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Cada pieza de adhesivo tiene una lengüeta negra en el extremo, que se adhiere ligeramente a la superficie frontal de la batería.
Be careful prying around the side button connector when trying to remove the top tabs. There is very little room to maneuverer
£ Tapes broke on me so I applied iISOPROPYL ALCOHOL using an Eye Dropper waited 30 seconds tHen heated up some oil in the bag rice for 2 minutes on 700W and the applied the unopened packet to the back of the iPhone for 90 seconds.
Themn I used an out of date credit card with the raised numbers facing down to easily release the battery.
David Howard
Great tip! Worked perfectly and easy. Thanks.
It should read heated up some boil in the bag rice
David Howard
Very difficult. be very careful on the limited space end that you don't puncture the battery!
I really hope you guys not to skip steps for detaching taptick engine because it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.
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Desprende la primera lengüeta adhesiva de la parte inferior derecha de la batería.
Vor Schritt 30 umbedingt die Rückseite des iPhone erwärmen. Ich habe das iPhone 10 Minuten auf eine heiße Wärmflasche gelegt.
Strongly suggest you remove the display. Also the picture shows the "perfect world" it is far ore difficult to remove and get to those white adhesive pull strips. be very careful!!!
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Tira lentamente de una de las lengüetas adhesivas de la batería hacia la parte inferior del iPhone.
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Tira con firmeza, manteniendo una tensión constante en la tira hasta que se deslice entre la batería y la carcasa trasera. Para obtener los mejores resultados, tira de la tira con el ángulo más bajo posible, sin engancharla en ninguno de los otros componentes del iPhone.
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Si las lengüetas adhesivas de la batería se rompen durante el proceso de extracción, usa tus dedos o pinzas sin filo para recuperar la longitud restante del adhesivo, y continúa tirando.
This was the most frustrating step of the process. I found that if you pull steadily and slowly while continuing to grip the adhesive as close to the battery as you can there is a much smaller chance of breaking the adhesive strip and losing it under the battery.
I did not have replacement adhesive tabs for my battery so I needed to re-use the old ones. First, I pulled back the black tabs from the top and sides of the battery (Steps 28 and 29). Then I laid the phone on a hot water bottle (Wärmeflasche for our German friends) while I very, very, very slowly prised the battery out of the body using the flat end of a spudger, starting at the corner closest to the volume buttons. The battery did deform somewhat during the process, but it was fully discharged and I had no combustion problems. After a few minutes of gentle pressure on the battery corner, it started to release from the adhesive. Full removal took about 5 minutes and the adhesive tabs were not damaged in any way and happily re-adhered to the new battery.
I did all this after skipping over steps 18 to 27 and put the new battery in place after connecting it first to the circuit board to ensure correct alignment.
All 4 strips tore after just removing a small portion… even though I took great care to pull slowly and at a small angle. Could not imagine how anyone could have managed this with my phone. Had to heat and pry out.
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.
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Repite los pasos anteriores para quitar las tres tiras adhesivas restantes.
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Si has quitado todas las tiras adhesivas con éxito, salta el siguiente paso.
If you have a thin flexible plastic shim shaped like a letter opener, you can slip it under the battery and take it off the adhesive.
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.
Good luck with the top two…. Virtually impossible to remove. Both of mine broke almost immediately. I tried floss and a strong thread and both broke before they did much good.
so I took a plastic card (an old credit card would work, but you’ll have to cut it thinner or work from the sides. If you got the bottom two out successfully, you should be able to get enough lift to start prying gently with the card.
Good chance you’ll scuff up the super-thin carbon film over the charging coil if you’re too aggressive. And DO NOT use alcohol to soften the glue because it will melt right through that thin carbon layer and make a mess. Best bet is to go gradually…. Put the plastic card under the battery, pull up a bit to add tension, and then stick a pencil or popsicle or something under the card to keep keep the tension and give it 5 minutes or so for the tape to loosen. Then pull up on the card to add new tension, move the stick up, and wait again. It’ll take 20-30 minutes. Repeat until free and don’t rush.
@bigh I’m surprised nobody else mentions this problem! With the piece above the battery still in place, impossible to pull « at the smallest possible angle with horizontal » as for the 2 bands below: I suppose that’s why they make us remove the taptic engine! Why not similarly remove the things above the top of the battery?
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Tira de la cuerda de un lado a otro con un movimiento de sierra a lo largo de la batería para separar el adhesivo. No deformes ni dañes la batería.
In my case the floss caught on the sharp edge of the wireless charging coil pulling up the edge of the coil, butane cutting off the floss. I think the coil had been damaged by some previous repair, but be careful. After you pull past the first two adhesive strips, peek under the battery to make sure the floss is sliding over not under the coil. The coil doesn't look like a coil – more like a paper thin pad.
Soaking the floss in rubbing alcohol helped also. It took some doing, but eventually came through without issue.
I ended up heating the back of the phone for 30-60 seconds (don't do anymore than that) and used the opening tool as a fulcrum to lift the battery. As long as you're careful it should work!
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.
All the adhesive strips broke, so I used the long plastic tool for brute force extraction, twisting the old battery in the process. Most of the old strips in the back remained, so reused them for the new battery.
A hairdryer and dental floss dipped in Isopropyl alcohol worked for me. You need to use the blue pick and pointy end of the spudger to get the floss down deep enough into the crevice near the taptic engine. Then I just slowly pulled both ends of the floss down the length of the battery. DO NOT use the blue triangle pick, or similar to try and pry the battery up. The last time I very nearly damaged the charging coil near the center of the battery.
Of course skipping the screen and taptic engine disassembly, all 4 strips broke for me, so I ended up using a thin rubberband in place of the floss, and a flexible plastic card, slim enough to slip under the battery and pry it out. Took more than an hour but it worked out in the end, and I was glad I didn't have to deal with reattaching the screen and everything else to be honest. Be careful to not tear other small components with the edges of the card though, as I tore some unsuspecting black rubbery cover from a metallic case above the battery connector. Used some thin insulating tape to cover the exposed parts, just to be safe.
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Retira la batería del iPhone.
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Coloca la batería, desconéctala y continúa reemsablando tu dispositivo.
Having received a replacement battery from CE Store, the phone is now OK with top battery performance. The one received earlier was just a scrap, not chargeable. Now, I’m quite satisfied.
I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.
Same issue. Home button is dead. No cables were damaged. Everything else works. Any ideas?
I had the same issue with the Home button, I turned on Virtual Home Button, which makes the phone usable. Shutting the power off off and restarting the phone bring you to the login screen. go to Settings, Accessibility, Touch, Assistive Touch.
I recommend making sure the battery connector is lined up with the socket before setting it down on in the compartment, mine was very close, but a little too high and it made getting it connected a little more difficult than it needed to be.
I agree Benjamin. Eager to ask anyone starting this, since it added 90 minutes onto my project, be careful, though I can testify that the metal flex connector bends. In other words, I bent it about 3 times so the proper alignment could be attained - sort of a zig zag. Amidst that phase I had practically given up, almost started removing the new battery, but alas I got the phone to work again. We'll see if its function can last.
Steph B -
Performing a force restart at this point makes no sense. Shouldn’t it be performed after the display is installed?
Creio que a "reinicialização forçada" deverá ser feita "após a remontagem" do aparelho como está instruído.
He said:
I believe that the "forced restart "should be done "after reassembling" the device as instructed.
After you connect the new battery and before laying it down, make sure the end closest to the Taptic Engine has as much of a gap as possible and don't lay it down until you are absolutely sure that you are happy with the placement of it. This time around that end of the battery wound up being pretty much flush against the Taptic Engine and there really isn't much of a gap compared to the previous battery I put in there. I suspect there may be some inconsistencies with how the metal flex connector is attached to the battery itself from the factory and possibly the connector's length. With the battery connected, laying it down and leaving as much of a gap as possible, will help for the next time you replace it, especially if you choose not to remove the Taptic Engine.
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Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso. No olvides de volver a aplicar el adhesivo de de pantalla antes de volver a instalar la pantalla.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Echa un vistazo a nuestra comunidad de respuestas del iPhone SE 2020 para ayuda en la resolución de problemas.
Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso. No olvides de volver a aplicar el adhesivo de de pantalla antes de volver a instalar la pantalla.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Echa un vistazo a nuestra comunidad de respuestas del iPhone SE 2020 para ayuda en la resolución de problemas.
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27 comentarios
Quick question on this guide, and maybe I missed the listing on this one, but like the iPhone 11, will this give you that message regarding the battery not being an apple part if you replace the battery?
It might considering Apple is stooping to these antics.
https://www.ifixit.com/News/33147/apple-...
Imagine that. Your display breaks, by accident or by carelessness - no matter, you want to fix your own display or take it someplace that isn’t “Apple Authorized” and because you don’t go directly to Apple’s den of thieves, they pull this on you. You don’t want to pay out the yingyang? I guess you’ve got a faulty display then!
(Look, I get it. They do this to save their own butts legally. That does not make it right.)
Jesse -
I’ve looked at both the original SE and this next generation SE and I’m wondering if it’s really necessary to remove the entire display. I realize if the phone has its original battery in it that it likely is but if you’ve replaced it once before I don’t see why it’d be necessary to remove the display, just remove the battery itself and then you have less work. Maybe I’m missing something?
You would run the risk of tearing the flexes. It is totally worth the time removing the screen.
if i put another new battery in se 2020, is this message come “non genuine battery warning”
You will get this.
Duck -
There is actually a trick(but you need too get your dirty), THIS IS NOT A RECOMENDED WAY AS IT MAY DESTROY THE BATTERY
the only way is un solder the bms from the old battery(and also from the new battery) and resolder the old bms to the new battery
battery health will stay low but there are some flex cables that would give battery health as 100% (but it wont drop below 100%)
Official 3rd party repairs have access to apple software and to original parts, iFixit battery si not an official one.
Apple just released the repair program website and you can buy some original parts but still only for iphone 12, 13 and SE(2022).. for example they dont even sell the home button for the SE(2022), so you still got to buy a non official and lose the touch id feature
Non genuine battery doesn’t allow all features of the iPhone to work. Looks like I should have checked with Apple first as I could have had it repaired with genuine parts for $49.
Which features does it not allow to work?
Paul B -
The instructions were great. After changing the battery, I have a constant battery not Apple warning and my home button quit functioning. Who is to say if I may have stressed the display cable or Apple’s notorious retaliatory programming cut my home button out (IOS 16.02). With an inoperable phone, I could either try a new display or a different phone.
Update: As soon as I removed my sim card and transferred into another iphone, the home button started working. Apple’s self repair parts section does not have parts for older phones. It’s been made very apperent by Apple that repairs with any aftermarket parts will not be tolerated. Who actually owns these phones? I thought I paid for it…..
Did really well, and instructions were on point. But until I turned my phone back on, I get this message in software, saying "battery unkown", and it wont go away. How do I get this message to go away, without going to Apple Support?
Thank you.
You probably can't. Apple makes it so that if the battery isn't genuine, warning messages and errors and that kind of stuff will pop up.
Just completed this successfully. I had to use a DEJI battery kit, as the iFixit was out of stock. All went well, and also used the linked guides for installing battery adhesive & display adhesive. The phone does show the battery warning, but I've read that it will disappear after a few days, so that's no problem. Thanks iFixit.
I did manage to carefully remove the bottom two battery adhesive strips without removing the taptic engine, but the top two strips both snapped quite quickly. Had to sneak some IPA underneath to finish the removal.
You'll get the Unknown Part warning in Settings > Battery even if you use a Genuine Apple battery.
iFixIt documents that for the iPhone SE 2022
https://www.ifixit.com/News/59510/apple-...
I think they now have made the iPhone SE 2020 do the same. Quoting the relevant section:
Installing a 3rd Gen iPhone SE 2022 battery in a 3rd Gen iPhone SE 2022: Possible, but…
This is the current standard, and a good sign for future battery replacements, but unfortunately you’ll still get the “unknown part” warning. The only feature you’ll lose is Battery Health. Yes even if you’re using a perfectly genuine battery, Apple considers the repair “nongenuine” until they personally verify it.
Caveat: Apple will now let you pay for the privilege of verification, if you buy their part.
Hi, I have done the battery swap but my home button no longer works do you have an idea of what the issue is?
Thank you, Adam for a clear and accurate step-by-step guide to replacing the battery in our iPhone SE 2020 phones. Both were a success though one required a reopening as I didn't get the haptic cable connector set properly. The illustrations were clear and accurate as well as the warning about getting the connectors to click on each end rather than pressing on the middle. Well done!
This how-to is excellent but could be improved with discussions of Taptic engine cable techniques and best practice with the iFixit replacement battery. It took me close to 30 minutes to get the Taptic engine connector set properly (finally did it with jeweler's flathead screwdrivers to line it up). I also couldn't figure out the wrapping for the battery and ended up tearing it apart. I also wasn't sure about battery placement so that the connector cable would fit properly. Used a silver Sharpie to mark a line on the battery and beside it so that I got it in the right spot once the adhesive backing was removed. Finally, a small metallic fitting popped out of somewhere when I got the last battery adhesive loose. Was confusing for a minute, but I finally decided the piece fit best under the Taptic engine 2.1 Phillips screw. All in all, excellent directions! Thank you.
This is a great guide. Thanks for providing it. No problems, no guessing, good pictures.
I need a battery for my 3rd generation SE (A2595) is this the one I need?
Ended up breaking the volume up button in the process… no idea how that happened since it’s not near the work done in this process. 5th battery I’ve done and first issue. In retrospect would have been better to have apple do it. At least volume can be changed in the OS and it’s just the physical button. If anyone knows a simple fix pass it along. Assuming a connector got damaged while struggling to reconnect the tiny little buggers
Quick note for the battery - as of Nov 2023 and iOS 17, the battery sold by iFixit involved in this guide will result in non genuine alert on SE 2020. I got it on the next boot after the replacement and the reassembly. The battery health is no longer available with the new battery. :(
So, I would rate this as a "moderate-plus" if not a "hard" repair. It ultimately worked (although the rear adhesive strip removal didn't - just make sure the old battery is discharged fully, and lever it out physically after step 22 with as little physical deformation of the old battery as possible.)
But these screws are tiny, and some (like the Y000 in step 23) require specialized drivers. And afterward, your iPhone will complain that it can't tell if it's an Apple authorized battery and so some battery info is unavailable.
In retrospect, I might have spent a little more and had a shop do this, honestly.
Hardest part was connecting the battery at the very end. It was lined up but took awhile to click in! Thanks!
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - Contestar
I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.
Johnny Emrica - Contestar
That’s a great idea thank you
Mohamed Dekkiche -
Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?
Bill Maher - Contestar
I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.
tripmusic - Contestar
How with the gigantic kit do I not have a 3 1/2 pentalobe driver the very first screwdriver I reach for and that I need is not in any of these kits. What’s up with that?
Michael Stephens - Contestar