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Derecho a reparar

Tienda

Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para devolverle la vida a tu iPhone 7 con una batería nueva.

Esta guía te indica que remuevas el ensamblaje de la pantalla; esto es con la finalidad de evitar daños a los cables de la pantalla. Si sientes que puedes remover la batería sin dañar los cables de la pantalla, puedes omitir los pasos del desmontaje de la pantalla.

Para un rendimiento óptimo de la batería, después de haber seguido la guía de reemplazo, se tendrá que calibrar la batería recién instalada: cárgala hasta que llegue al 100% y una vez que llegue a ese porcentaje déjala cargando por al menos dos horas más. Seguido de eso tendrás que usar el teléfono hasta que el teléfono se apague, después tendrás que cargarlo ininterrumpidamente hasta que llegue al 100% de carga.

Resumen del Video

  1. Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.4 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone dañará sus sellos impermeables. Ten sellos de reemplazo listos antes de seguir con el próximo paso o ten cuidado de evitar la entrada de líquidos si vuelves a ensamblar tu iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Contestar

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Contestar

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Contestar

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Contestar

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Contestar

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Contestar

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Contestar

  2. Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.

    • Utiliza una pistola de calor o preparar un iOpener y aplicarlo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo debajo.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Contestar

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Contestar

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Contestar

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Contestar

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Contestar

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Contestar

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Contestar

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Contestar

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Contestar

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Contestar

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - Contestar

  3. Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio. Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.
    • Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Contestar

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Contestar

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Contestar

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Contestar

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Contestar

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Contestar

  4. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco. El adhesivo  que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el  spudger.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco.

    • El adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Contestar

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Contestar

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Contestar

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Contestar

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Contestar

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Contestar

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Contestar

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Contestar

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Contestar

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Contestar

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Contestar

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Contestar

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Contestar

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - Contestar

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - Contestar

  5. Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.
    • Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Contestar

  6. Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.
    • Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio.

    • No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Contestar

  7. Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera. Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.
    • Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No introduzcas el spudger más allá del adhesivo para evitar dañar los delicados cables de cinta a lo largo del borde derecho.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Contestar

  8. Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone. No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos  a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.
    • Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone.

    • No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Contestar

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Contestar

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Contestar

  9. Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

  10. Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar. Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.
    • Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.

    • Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - Contestar

  11. El kit de herramientas esencial

    Las herramientas más útiles en nuestro kit más compacto.

    Compra ahora

    El kit de herramientas esencial

    Las herramientas más útiles en nuestro kit más compacto.

    Compra ahora
  12. Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior. Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro. No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Contestar

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Contestar

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Contestar

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Contestar

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Contestar

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Contestar

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Contestar

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Contestar

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Contestar

  13. Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.4 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, lleva cuenta de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que cada tornillo vuelva al lugar exacto de donde salió para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Contestar

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Contestar

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Contestar

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Contestar

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Contestar

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Contestar

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Contestar

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Contestar

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Contestar

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Contestar

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Contestar

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Contestar

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Contestar

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Contestar

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Contestar

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Contestar

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Contestar

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Contestar

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Contestar

  14. Retira el soporte del conector inferior.
    • Retira el soporte del conector inferior.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Contestar

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Contestar

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

  15. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Contestar

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Contestar

  16. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso. Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña  para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca  hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica. Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso.

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica.

    • Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.

    • Si tienes un pantalla en blanco, líneas blancas en la pantalla, o no tienes respuesta táctil completa o parcial después de volver a ensamblar tu teléfono, intenta desconectar y reconectar con cuidado ambos cables y asegúrate de que estén encajados completamente.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    minimalist - Contestar

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Contestar

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Contestar

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Contestar

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Contestar

    Second cable is for touch functionality, you need a new LCD display now

    Joshua Driscoll -

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Contestar

    You need an entire new LCD now as it's for touch functionality and is fused to the digitizer sorry for the bad news

    Joshua Driscoll -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Contestar

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Contestar

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Contestar

  17. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal. Retira el soporte. Retira el soporte.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal.

    • Retira el soporte.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Contestar

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Contestar

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Contestar

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Contestar

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Contestar

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Contestar

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Contestar

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Contestar

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Contestar

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Contestar

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Contestar

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Contestar

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

  18. Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica. Este conector a presión  debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.
    • Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica.

    • Este conector a presión debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Contestar

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Contestar

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Contestar

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  20. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips que aseguran la ventanilla del sensor barométrico a la parte trasera de la carcasa.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips que aseguran la ventanilla del sensor barométrico a la parte trasera de la carcasa.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Contestar

  21. Remueve la ventanilla. Remueve la ventanilla.
    • Remueve la ventanilla.

  22. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de motor táptico de  su zócalo en la placa lógica. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de motor táptico de  su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de motor táptico de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  23. Remueve los tornillos de 1.6 mm Phillips que sujetan el Motor Táptico a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve los tornillos de 1.6 mm Phillips que sujetan el Motor Táptico a la caja trasera.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Contestar

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Contestar

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Contestar

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Contestar

  24. Remueve el Motor Táptico. Remueve el Motor Táptico.
    • Remueve el Motor Táptico.

  25. Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar una de las tiras adhesivas en el borde inferior de la batería. Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar una de las tiras adhesivas en el borde inferior de la batería. Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar una de las tiras adhesivas en el borde inferior de la batería.
    • Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar una de las tiras adhesivas en el borde inferior de la batería.

  26. Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar la otra tira adhesiva en el borde inferior de la batería. Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar la otra tira adhesiva en el borde inferior de la batería.
    • Usa un par de pinzas con puntas romas para despegar la otra tira adhesiva en el borde inferior de la batería.

    I can recommend preheating - first phone attempted without preheating both strips broke almost instantly, but this time heating the back of phone until battery felt about 40 degrees made for a smooth removal, saving me ages prying it out with cards…

    Jesse de Vries - Contestar

    Definitely preheat. Don’t even bother trying to pull out the tabs without preheating the back.

    Josh Baxter - Contestar

  27. Si esta es la primera vez que quitas una tira adhesiva de la batería del iPhone, consulta el video en el siguiente paso antes de comenzar. Intenta mantener las tiras planas y sin arrugas durante este procedimiento; las tiras arrugadas se pegarán juntas y se romperán en lugar de tirar limpiamente. Lentamente, retira una lengüeta adhesiva de la batería de la batería, hacia la parte inferior del iPhone.
    • Si esta es la primera vez que quitas una tira adhesiva de la batería del iPhone, consulta el video en el siguiente paso antes de comenzar.

    • Intenta mantener las tiras planas y sin arrugas durante este procedimiento; las tiras arrugadas se pegarán juntas y se romperán en lugar de tirar limpiamente.

    • Lentamente, retira una lengüeta adhesiva de la batería de la batería, hacia la parte inferior del iPhone.

    • Retira firmemente, manteniendo una tensión constante en la tira hasta que se deslice entre la batería y la carcasa trasera. Para obtener los mejores resultados, tira de la tira a un ángulo de 60º o menos.

    • La tira se estirará a muchas veces su longitud original. Continúa tirando y vuelve a agarrar la tira cerca de la batería si es necesario.

    My adhesive strips tore almost immediately. I ended up using an old membership card as a tool to pry the battery out. I must admit, I did deform the battery - seemed almost unavoidable.

    Dan - Contestar

    Same here, I had to work it out with the guitar pic they give you.

    greggammon - Contestar

    I GENTLY heated the back case with my heat gun and BOTH strips came out PERFECTLY.

    Mike Gill - Contestar

    How do you keep it from wrinkling without tearing

    James Green - Contestar

    It always tears for me too. They make it look super easy in the videos ;)

    Anthony - Contestar

    Worked for me by setting the phone on a sock with rice (heated for 30 seconds) while I messed with these. Pulled the white part SLOWLY.

    mason - Contestar

    After a past experience with the adhesive strips immediately tearing on an iPhone 4, I knew to heat the battery with a hair dryer before pulling on the strip. After heating the battery, I was able to pull the adhesive strip without any problems.

    Mark Lieberman - Contestar

    First one worked perfectly as it was seen in the video. The second one teared immediately. I lifted the battery a little by a spudger and used the tweezers to pull out the white part and grabbed with my fingers and gently pulled it slowly, which worked.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Contestar

    A very good way I found when I, as probably many others, made the straps snap; a way I definitely will apply next time if I do this: use a spudger and “spinn” the white tejp out. Working with the hands trying to pull it out was not ideal… So:

    Stick the tejp on/around the spudger and roll it up/out on the tip on the spudger. Once it grips hold on the spudger and you roll it, it almost eats it way out.

    Otherwise it would have taken me ages to get it out but yes, if it snaps (or from start) you can get hold of it under the battery then you definitely have a substitute solution here.

    Johan Nilsson - Contestar

    • Repite el paso anterior para la segunda tira.

    • Mantén presionada la batería mientras retiras la segunda tira, o la tira puede arrojar la batería cuando se separa de la caja.

    • Si eliminaste ambas tiras adhesivas con éxito, omite el siguiente paso.

    • De lo contrario, si cualquiera de las tiras adhesivas se rompió debajo de la batería y no se pudo recuperar, continúa con el siguiente paso a continuación.

  28. Si alguna de las tiras adhesivas se rompió y la batería sigue pegada a la caja trasera, prepara un iOpener o usa un secador de pelo para calentar la caja trasera directamente detrás de la batería. Debería sentirse ligeramente demasiado caliente al tacto. Sobrecalentar el iPhone podría prender fuego la batería.
    • Si alguna de las tiras adhesivas se rompió y la batería sigue pegada a la caja trasera, prepara un iOpener o usa un secador de pelo para calentar la caja trasera directamente detrás de la batería. Debería sentirse ligeramente demasiado caliente al tacto.

    • Sobrecalentar el iPhone podría prender fuego la batería.

    • Voltea el teléfono y usa una tarjeta de plástica para romper cualquier adhesivo restante detrás de la batería.

    • No insertes la tarjeta en el área entre el botón de volumen bajo (-) y el borde superior de la batería o podrías dañar el cable del control de volumen que se encuentra debajo.

    • No hagas palanca contra la placa lógica o podrías dañar el teléfono.

    • Mantén la tarjeta tan plana como sea posible para evitar doblar la batería que podría dañarla y provocar un escape de sustancias químicas peligrosas o podría prenderse fuego. No uses ninguna herramienta puntiaguda para hacer palanca en la batería.

    • Alternativamente, se podría usar un trozo de hilo dental para separar la batería de la caja trasera. Una alternativa más resistente es una cuerda de guitarra como una cuerda E 0.009 de un set de 12 cuerdas.

    • Pasa el hilo dental o cuerda detrás de las esquinas superiores de la batería, junta los extremos y envuélvelos alrededor de un paño doblado y jala parejamente.

    As a professional tooth carpenter, I stand by this suggestion

    Anthony - Contestar

    Bij mij brak ook een van de kleefstrips , ik heb toen de batterij een heel klein beetje opgelicht en er wat isopropyl (alcohol) laten tussenlopen en dan een halve minuut gewacht . Vervolgens heb ik heel voorzichtig in combinatie van een Plastic card en een iSesamo opening tool (deze zijn beiden hier te koop bij iFixit), de batterij kunnen los wrikken zonder dat deze beschadigd of geplooid was.

    clbr - Contestar

  29. Retira la batería de la caja trasera.
    • Retira la batería de la caja trasera.

    • Si tu batería de reemplazo viene en una manga de plástico, quita la manga antes de instalarla jalando del cable plano.

    • Si tu batería nueva no viene con adhesivos, consulta esta guía para reemplazar las tiras adhesivas.

    • Realiza un reinicio forzado después del reensamblaje. Esto puede evitar varios problemas y simplificar la resolución de problemas.

    After I replace the battery, should I put on the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive and then follow the steps in that guide to reassemble?

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    Follow this guide for the display adhesive. There should be a link here for it. Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    minimalist - Contestar

    ==> Step 18 !

    VauWeh -

    There should be directions as to how to locate the new battery in the case! There is enough freedom of movement that the battery could be glued back into the case and not be able to make the battery connection. Some temporary spacers would be a great idea.

    I put the Taptic Engine back in the case first. The battery seems to rest right against it, so it becomes a physical reference point. I cut out a piece of the plastic cover that came on the battery & put it over the battery connector mating point on the circuit board to keep the battery disconnected until necessary.

    Robert Rodenburg - Contestar

    There should be a STEP 30 Instructions to refer you to the link for instructions for installing the REPLACEMENT SEALS. Or at least a big note saying to install the seal now before re-assembling

    David Reese - Contestar

    Bought kit, followed all the instructions, and now the Touch ID and home button don’t work on my phone, rendering it useless. Connections are fine, no obvious cable tears, I’ve checked and rechecked all connections … not to mention, what component did I even touch to render home button useless since it’s on the display screen? This is going to cost me. What a horrible experience that’s taken up 4 hours and cost me time and money. Can’t recommend just shipping phone back to Apple enough. One of the most disappointing experiences with a product in ages. And all just to replace a freakin’ battery …

    John Cagle - Contestar

    I have the same issue :(

    radeise -

    Hello guyz. Please help me. I tried to replace my iphone 7 battery. When i was removing the 4 tri wing screws on the cover that is covering the battery cable Etc, I used many screwdriver because at first I didn’t know that those are tri wing screws. I ordered .6 tri wing screwdriver. I successfully removed the 2 screws but the other 2 cannot remove. I think they are stripped or they are damaged because of what i did pn my first try. I dont know what to do. My iphone battery health is 73 percent. I want them to be removed but i dont know how. Pleaseee help mee guyss. (Sorry if my english is bad, im from Philippines) please help me

    Ryan Sacramento - Contestar

Conclusión

Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.

Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Consulta nuestra [comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.

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Paige Reisman

Miembro Desde 07/04/14

20,625 Reputación

15 Guías creadas

Does this effectively negate the waterproof feature of the new iPhones?

Tubby - Contestar

yes , unless it is sealed back with new waterproof tape, which almost no one has yet

Atronx -

No you can buy the replacement. See the above guide for a link on how to do that and iFixIt sells them. Recommend buying more than one because installation is tricky - must get it aligned perfectly though the spluger and pointy tweezers can help reposition minor slipups.

lovemymac -

iPhone 6 take battery off put new one now not changing at all but saying yes but no going up new battery saying all time 6@.all time

ant2101 - Contestar

Is there any way to put back the waterproof sealing after changing the battery for iPhone 7? Thanks

Steven Tanda Putra - Contestar

I too would like to know this! It's a shame they don't elaborate as such. There is this part here - Display Adhesive iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive which I assume needs to be put on after the screen is taken off but this guide says it's not needed? But for a screen repair it is? Does it get placed on the phone housing or screen? Thanks

blitzn -

Yep, we have a guide for replacing the seal (display adhesive) now. I don't know how waterproof the seal will be afterward, but I think it's worth doing regardless.

Jeff Suovanen -

Most of the adhesives that are being sold are not rated to be waterproof, and are not the geniune OEM brand materials.

Atronx -

Probably too late, but there are many vendors that sell the waterproof seal for iPhone7. Use alchohol and tweezers to remove the old seal and glue, align the new seal and stick it. Compared to the battery change, it’s a breeze.

hiroo yamagata -

Hi!

Now I got a huge problem concerning the HomeButton/ForceTouch-function.

It does not work anymore. I think it's a safety measure by Apple to prevent people from changing their batteries.

ANY HELP, please? :(

87schiller - Contestar

Those functions aren't related to the battery. Double-check your work, reseat the cable connectors, and inspect the cables and home button hardware carefully for damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I know this is a month late, but hopefully this helps someone. On the 7, 3D Touch and the home button are routed through the same flex cable that comes out from underneath the metal backing of the display and plugs into the board.

This flex cable is very easy to pull and damage when taking the screen off for the first time. In most situations you won't see this damage because it will be underneath the metal backing of the display.

If this same thing happens to you, you'll unfortunately need a screen replacement to fix it.

Cody Dover -

My problem is with the 4 tri screws holding the 1st bracket down. They just spin, all 4 of them. The screw heads aren't stripped, as they all spin, they just don't back out. I've applied backpressure in hopes that would help lift the screws, but no luck.

Jeff Hurst - Contestar

Is Iphone 7 battery connector same as battery connector of Iphone 6S or other models?

Tumen - Contestar

No. Different connectors.

Ben -

Might want to update your website.

iHelpU.Tech is currently working on obtaining certifications from Apple Inc. Currently none of our repairs are backed by Apple Inc.

obed - Contestar

You dont have to remove the Taptic Engine but it gives you more room to work with the glue.

nicolay.94 - Contestar

Hello there, I got a dead iPhone 7, so I tested the battery, and the only “weird” thing.. is that the battery is rated 3.8v… and on this one.. im having a reading of 4.1V…. maybe this overpowered issue is preventing the iPhone to turn on???

jbermudez27 - Contestar

So, I changed the battery of my iPhone 7 with the kit provided by IFIXIT a couple of days ago, and cononutBattery is reporting that the battery is already at 95% (1862 out of 1960 mAh), with only 1 charge cycle. Is this normal?

Federico Baier - Contestar

Hi Federico

Did you try the following tip?

For optimal performance after completing the guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Takehiro -

nice video but if possible upload a pdf file

thank you very much…………….

Ali Zain - Contestar

The step by step guide can be converted to a pdf by selecting Options>Download PDF.

Sam Goldheart -

in this website can i have mobile and tab schematics ?

Ali Zain - Contestar

This is a truly fantastic account of how to do this. Well done.

I had to abandon when the kit I was supplied did not include a tri screwdriver but I watched the engineer finish my work and it was exactly as shown here.

hdisgreat - Contestar

mnvery east to follow quide but i almoust did burn down my phone when i was removing battery it cathed on fire and i have no idea did i puncture it or what.

Samuli Karppinen - Contestar

In any such venture, when dealing with precision components. DON’T RUSH, if you have any issue with hands that tremor for whateverr reason when handinlng small items, DON’T TRY THIS, LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE WITH STEADY HANDS !!

Shaun O'Connor - Contestar

My iPhone 7 wasn't not charging. So, After searching on Google, I found this guide "iPhone 7 not charging". And, with this guide I get to know about that, my iPhone battery got damaged. And, My iPhone warranty also got expired. So, I have decided to replace the battery by myself. And, this guide really helped me to replace my iPhone battery. Just want to say thanks to you. :)

nagarakshya - Contestar

Can you pull the battery adhesive tabs without removing the Taptic Engine? Anyone tried that?

Balle - Contestar

@balleklorin You certainly can, but you’re much more likely to break the adhesive strips that way. You want to pull them at as low an angle as possible, and with the Taptic Engine installed you’ll have to pull them at nearly 90 degrees. My advice is not to take shortcuts, but it’s your phone and your rules! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi ! I want to do this repair but I read online that if I use a non-original battery Apple’s software will detect it and will slow down the phone (like it does for the damaged original battery).

Is it still true or is it fixed in the current IOS ?

Quentin barbry - Contestar

Not true at all. As long as you have a high-quality battery, the iPhone’s performance is just as good as with a brand-new battery from Apple. If you have any doubts, you can verify the performance by benchmarking it with the GeekBench app.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi everyone, I’ve replaced my iPhone 7 Battery and for some reason i am still seeing the old battery readings (same percentage and same battery health percentage 80%) on battery settings. Will this fix after the battery gets calibrated?

Thanks.

Juan Fonseca - Contestar

my home button stopped working. Any ideas how to fix this ?

Dries Van de Velde - Contestar

I‘ve done it step by step, everything went well. everything works, except touchID wont work.

could anyone tell me what the reason could be?

thank you lads.

davidaigner - Contestar

Fun repair but why did apple change the battery screws to tri point… tri point suck!

[deleted] - Contestar

Follow this guide for the display adhesive. There should be a link for it here in this guide. I had to go looking for it. Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

minimalist - Contestar

super détail pour les vis et leurs tailles

ca va m’ aider , car au démontage rien etait fixé, et il en manque 2 ( au moins 12 vis en promenades)

donc avec le kit commandé je pourrai m aider des différents tuto pour retrouver leurs emplacements

cordialement marchal

Gros Lutin - Contestar

Excellent guide, but may I make a couple of suggestions:

1) in step 18 this guide should strongly recommend that anyone doing the waterproof sealant replacement MUST watch the linked “iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement” guide FIRST considering that it does require an additional tool (no, I did not have enough pennies on me to do the recommended heat treatment followed by weight-pressing the reassembled iPhone assisted by said pennies).

2) also in step 18, you could point out that the forward camera assembly at the top of the front plate of the iPhone 7 has a hooked ridge that must be fitted into the bottom plate for the re-assembly to work at all. Personally I had NOT noticed that, so when I tried to reassemble mine I hadn’t tried to make sure that the ridge was properly placed. Could you add a picture here of that ridge and perhaps recommend that everyone working on disassembly that they should see how it works so they can recall it upon re-assembly.

Arthur Maruyama - Contestar

I agree. Reassembly is NOT the reverse of the many steps! That ridge or plastic edge MUST be slid into first. Opening the iPhone doesn’t reveal that. Careful, because the waterproof glue can catch the battery cable too. Aligning the battery by connecting the battery cable/ribbon helps BUT be careful and remember to disconnect the battery BEFORE reconnecting the two data cables (Again, this would be obvious if the steps or reassembly pics were included. Number of steps = 60 more realistically because reassembly is just as important and risky!

lovemymac -

BTW: when I first completed my re-assembly, when I first looked at my screen there was a set of greyish bands that covered about 1/3rd of the screen. Not so dark that clearly blocked the use of those parts of the screen but rather noticable. I shrugged my shoulders, thinking that perhaps there was some internal damage that I couldn’t help having done.

But less than 24 hours after that, that banding has been considerably reduced (covering less than 10%) AND it is much less grey. It is such that I must bring up an app like Notes in order to have a mostly blank white screen in order to see what remains, so perhaps this was merely an artifact left by the ending heating I did to “cure” the waterproof adhesive, and over time it will disappear entirely.

Arthur Maruyama - Contestar

after doing this fix ive gotten a message - unable to activate touch id on this iphone —-its an iphone 7

Ryan D'mello - Contestar

Home button not working after battery replacement.

karllittau - Contestar

Ugh. Touch ID not working after replacing battery — I figure I damaged the cable attached to the screen. I hard rebooted (down volume + power) and it didn’t help. Sad. Everything else ok.

mason - Contestar

Thanks for the guide. Very helpful on two iPhones

For some reason i forgot to use the suction cup but was still able to open the phone without much difficulty (so don’t worry about needing iopeners etc. )

Of course one of my battery strips snapped, but with a bit of effort and pointed tweezers under the battery i managed to grab it after a few attempts and fully remove it.

Although you could do this without removing the screen, you will need to remove it to place a new sealant strip around the edge.

Stuart - Contestar

Just completed changing the battery on my Father-in-law's iPhone 7. He had purchased the phone used and I suspect the battery had been replaced previously as there was no adhesive seal holding the display to the case. In addition one of the screws holding the bracket was missing. Nonetheless the procedure went very well. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The most difficult part of this project was removing the battery from the case as the adhesive broke almost immediately. Fortunately the tips that are in that step made removing the battery easy. Bottom line, read the instructions ahead of time, watch the video and TAKE YOUR TIME! Good luck!

Lon Adams - Contestar

I used this guide with the ifixit replacement kit and it went very well. I do wish though that the guide gave advice on how to install the new adhesive gasket when reassembling.

Thomas - Contestar

Hey Thomas! Glad to hear that everything went well. Sorry to leave you hanging on the adhesive install, we do have a guide but it’s a little hidden. Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

Taylor Dixon -

I followed every step. Replaced the battery. Played backwards every step. Now I am stuck with the Apple Logo slowly flashing on & off. I think I just killed my iPhone7. My Mac does not ‘see’ my phone when I connect it to iTunes.

Jeffery Barbour - Contestar

This guide doesn’t really explain how to reapply the display assembly adhesive, which is necessary to restore the iPhone 7’s water resistance. As previously mentioned, check out this guide.

Anthony - Contestar

i am not being able to do it… I have heated up the phone, to smooth the glue… but the cover doesn’t me off

matilde_napoleao - Contestar

Good instructions. Two things that would be nice to add to reassembly would be how to apply the adhesive and seal.

Tom Fields - Contestar

My iphone fell in the toilet and was there maybe 5 seconds. I dried it and let it rest but then (I know) tried to to do things. The next day (I took it to a TekDry machine and they put it through for two half hour plus periods. After the first half hour, the start screen came back for a maybe a minute. (I almost paid.) Then nothing. I brought it home and plugged it in to charge it. After 5 hours (?) it began to flash- It was like a living creature trying to breathe- It would light up- then go dark- many times. I tried a hard reset and think I managed to turn it off. Now it is in a vertical position, off the charger. This is a newly refurbished phone. (I had it for a day)- I am wondering where I could take it to in Seattle for someone to open it up. It will turn on even now. Or should I give it a decent burial? I am in my 70s and techno-challenged. Any advice, expressions of gentle derogation or approval, are welcome.

Lyn Coffin - Contestar

Getting the adhesive to loosen was the hardest and most frustrating part of this with me trying it multiple times for a few days. Simply “warming up” the phone did not work, I had to make it really, really hot in order to lift the phone a fraction of a millimeter with the whole thing flying around the room and me hitting myself in the face with the suction cup multiple times. Using a thinner metal plunger did the trick, but scratched my case. Nevertheless, it was the only way to open up that beast. A third hand would have been be nice for that job x)

Wilk Polarny - Contestar

Me too. I stopped and bought the tool that has two suction cups and looks like pliers. It allowed me to gently squeeze, release, squeeze and eventually it began to separate. Also, that tool kept me from pulling to hard or opening too wide thus saving the ribbon connections. The iFixIt heat tool worked better than a hairdryer.

lovemymac -

hat geklappt, danke für die Anleitung!

LG Andreas von studi kompass

Andreas Baumann - Contestar

Hello. Do you ship this battery replacement kit overseas? I`m from the philippines.

pamiho - Contestar

Completed. This is now the second 7 that I have successfully replaced the battery on.

Kevin McNamara - Contestar

I have to agree with some of the other comments - the re-assembly instructions might have helped!!! Instead of having to switch between guides to figure out how and when to apply the screen adhesive. I successfully dismantled the iPhone, replaced the battery, got through the majority of the re-assembly, realised the instructions hadn’t included the screen adhesive, searched for the instructions, then re-disconnect the screen AGAIN, apply the screen adhesive, re-assemble the iPhone completely this time, only to find I’d broken the display at some point!!!

Andy Pounder - Contestar

Perfect install. Now phone is dead.

eddyfreemail - Contestar

I missed the “forced restart” after reassembly. That created some angst for me wondering where the trusty white Apple logo was hiding. I reread the notes and found the forced restart. All is good. Super nice tutorial. Many thanks,

Travis Witherington - Contestar

I’ve made it, after all. How dare you not saying that one need new adhesive strips and sealing AT THE BEGINNING of this instruction or OFFER IT IN THE INTRODUCTION as all the other stuff, I’ve asked!!!

Axel Moering - Contestar

Great kit and tutorial, I had it done in one shot without buying any extra strips! Just go slow and you’ll get there eventually. Oh and, keep the hairdryer nearby, it will be your bff for this! Good luck and many thanks to the people in the comments as your warnings have been really helpful!!

Anthony Phuong - Contestar

Worked OK. Hard bits is screen removal - I used very narrow screwdriver. Advise using piece of A4 with step numbers to place various screws and parts on as you remove. Some very tiny screws in there.

Matt Franey - Contestar

I followed all the steps perfectly and the battery shorted out (the back heated up really hot and the phone wouldn’t turn on). Then I tried to do it all again but the pentalobe driver is not biting into the screws anymore so I couldn’t open the case.

Samuel Sharmat - Contestar

I replaced the battery and the Home Button no longer works. The are a few other comments posted on this here and a long chain in the iPhone 7 section. I have done a lot of troubleshooting to include reseating all the connectors , loosening the middle screw over the Home Button, hard resets, etc. No luck. I have done quite a few phone repairs successfully and have had good luck. I was very careful with this battery replacement and don’t know how I could have damaged a cable. Some repairmen suspect the heat application to loosen the seal. It’s the only reasonable explanation I can think of. I now have an iPhone 4 that looks like an iPhone 7!

mwbenson - Contestar

Thank you for the guide, it was really detailed (Y)

Kristóf - Contestar

Thank you so very much for publishing this very helpful instructions. They helped me sucessfully install a battery and save $33 doing it myself.

Scott Davis - Contestar

J’ai changé la batterie sans difficulté avec ce tutoriel. En revanche, la batterie se décharge rapidement même si le téléphone n’est pas utilisé, et même la lorsque le téléphone est éteint. C’est curieux et je ne sais pas d’où vient la panne: de la batterie ou du téléphone?

Pierre-alexandre98880 - Contestar

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