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Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar la placa E/S que contiene un puerto USB 3.0, puerto HDMI, un lector de tarjeta SDXC.

No es estrictamente necesario de remover el SSD para reemplazar la placa E/S, pero proporciona espacio adicional para hacer este proceso más fácil. Si te sientes cómodo reemplazando la placa E/S sin remover el SSD, puedes saltear los pasos para removerlo.

  1. Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe P5 que sujetan la cubierta del  MacBook Pro:
    • Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe P5 que sujetan la cubierta del MacBook Pro:

    • Ocho 3.1 mm

    • Dos 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Contestar

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Contestar

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Contestar

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Contestar

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Contestar

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Contestar

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Contestar

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Contestar

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - Contestar

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose - Contestar

  2. Levantando desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levanta la cubierta del Macbook Pro. Levantando desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levanta la cubierta del Macbook Pro.
    • Levantando desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levanta la cubierta del Macbook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Contestar

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Contestar

  3. La cubierta tiene dos clavijas de plástico (rojo) que entran en dos clips de plástico en la caja superior (naranja). Durante el reensamblaje, suavemente empuja hacia abajo, el centro de la cubierta para volver a fijar la caja a sus dos clips de plástico. Durante el reensamblaje, suavemente empuja hacia abajo, el centro de la cubierta para volver a fijar la caja a sus dos clips de plástico.
    • La cubierta tiene dos clavijas de plástico (rojo) que entran en dos clips de plástico en la caja superior (naranja).

    • Durante el reensamblaje, suavemente empuja hacia abajo, el centro de la cubierta para volver a fijar la caja a sus dos clips de plástico.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Contestar

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    Impossible to put those peds into the upper case clips! It just does not hold there, it fits but just does the ‘click’ sound and goes back. Is it possible to buy those clips as spare part? Thank you for help.

    Lopez Loku - Contestar

    Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

    Vadym Borodin - Contestar

    I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

    Vadym Borodin - Contestar

  4. Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería
    • Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Contestar

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Contestar

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Contestar

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Contestar

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Contestar

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam - Contestar

  5. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica. Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.
    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Contestar

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Contestar

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Contestar

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Contestar

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Contestar

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Contestar

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Contestar

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Contestar

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile - Contestar

    After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

  6. Usa una palanca Spudger antiestático o pinzas para desconectar los tres conectores de la antena Airport y doblarlos hacia arriba y quitarlos del camino. El punto de conexión del cable es muy frágil. Ten cuidado al levantar solo el conector, y no el cable. Para re-conectar, alinea cuidadosamente el conector en su posición sobre la antena Airport, y presionalo hacia abajo firmemente con la base de tu palanca spudger antiestático.
    • Usa una palanca Spudger antiestático o pinzas para desconectar los tres conectores de la antena Airport y doblarlos hacia arriba y quitarlos del camino.

    • El punto de conexión del cable es muy frágil. Ten cuidado al levantar solo el conector, y no el cable.

    • Para re-conectar, alinea cuidadosamente el conector en su posición sobre la antena Airport, y presionalo hacia abajo firmemente con la base de tu palanca spudger antiestático.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Contestar

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Contestar

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Contestar

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Contestar

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Contestar

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Contestar

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - Contestar

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - Contestar

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - Contestar

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - Contestar

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - Contestar

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - Contestar

    How? can you explain the procedure?

    Cosimo Soderi -

    I’m attempting taking the card out but leaving the wires attached as mentioned. A Torx T5 worked for me on that screw. I then very slightly lifted up the end of the card where the wires are attached and pulled it straight out of the slot on the opposite side.

    Sean Gabel -

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - Contestar

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - Contestar

    I did not bother with the danger of removing cables or cards or logic board. I spent 30 mins removing my battery carefully, using string and CT1 multisolve which isn’t dangerous to plastic.

    i slid my string under the battery and see-saw underneath and sprayed Ct1 Multisolve underneath. I’ve now done both my macbooks. Didn’t destroy any cables or risk it. I put a few paper sheets over my logic board to cover any spray back. Simple see-saw and a palstic card, the blue spludger and the black long spluger.

    T Master. - Contestar

    Yes, I did the full board disassembly on my 2012 macbook last year and once I finished I kind of wondered why I didn’t just work on removing the battery. Is there any real obstacle to doing so here? Can I just spend an hour or so carefully removing the battery? What’s the risk of doing that? again, is there any actual obstacle to removing the battery without pulling out the whole board assembly?

    Brian Lamb -

    You can go straight for the battery if you’re confident enough to improvise a little. Removing the board makes sense if you’re trying to protect the speakers from getting chewed up by the solvent. Otherwise, it’s faster and easier to leave the board in place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agreed. Just replaced the battery on my 15” MacBook Pro 2015 and I skipped all instruction between step 6 and 46. I just unplugged the battery and removed the trackpad connection. Used some dental floss to cut through the adhesives and a card to help with carefully prying the batteries up. After the battery was removed I used some isopropanol to clean up from the old glue. Installed new battery, attached the trackpad connection ribbon and connected battery. All in all it took me less than one hour. I would not recommend removing the whole logic board just to replace the battery.

    Mackie72 -

    I’m one of those unfortunate ones that simply followed the iFixit instructions before reading the comments. On successfully reconnecting 2 of the cables and (miserably) failing with the 3rd, I realized the relevance of the comments. I decided to take a gamble and leave the 3rd connector unconnected and fired up my MacBook … strangely enough, everything works fine i.e from the comments, WiFi, Bluetooth, Camera (et al) should be affected but they are all still fully operational (maybe they’ll die with time - I hope not). I don’t like the thought of an unattached cable lying around in my Mac hence I agree with those advocating for alternatives to this step (unhinging the WiFi card as opposed to prying these cables).

    Otim Samuel - Contestar

    Diese drei winzigen Stecker wieder aufzusetzen war tatsächlich die größte Herausforderung der ganzen Reparatur! Wichtig ist dabei darauf zu achten, diese waagerecht und passgenau aufzusetzen. Ich habe dazu die Lupe meiner Lötvorrichtung genutzt und zum aufdrücken die flache Seite des Spudgers.

    Werner Hampl - Contestar

    These antenna connectors are the worst to reconnect. Depending on the model and what repair you are doing, you may not be able to avoid disconnecting them.

    ccfman2004 - Contestar

    We took the advice of leaving the wires attached to the card, and unhinging the wifi the card cable. Worked great for us.

    Ann Brainard - Contestar

    Ditto on just removing the card and leaving the antenna connected. Worked fabulously.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

    If you do need to get the cables back on the the card, I have found good results using the tip of a T5 driver to gently push them down (of course while aligning carefully with other finger). It gives a firm, flat & precise surface to press with + we know you have a T5 around!

    Tech Medic - Contestar

  7. Desprende el cobertor de goma derecha hacia arriba y fuera del ventilador y dóblalo colocándolo hacia un lado. Desprende el cobertor de goma derecha hacia arriba y fuera del ventilador y dóblalo colocándolo hacia un lado.
    • Desprende el cobertor de goma derecha hacia arriba y fuera del ventilador y dóblalo colocándolo hacia un lado.

  8. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de empujar en paralelo al tablero, empujando primero en un lado y luego en el otro para "sacar" el conector de su zócalo.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de empujar en paralelo al tablero, empujando primero en un lado y luego en el otro para "sacar" el conector de su zócalo.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    malhal - Contestar

    Yeah, same here.. Not sure what to do now

    Roman Kroupoderov -

    Have you found a solution to this problem ? I have the same issue

    Tim Rault -

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - Contestar

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - Contestar

    Don’t use the flat edge of the spudger. Instead, use the pointed end to gently slide off by the dog ears of the plug. If you look closely you’ll see a notch on each side.

    John Xeno -

  9. Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador. Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos. Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía de cables de plástico
    • Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador.

    • Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos.

    • Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía de cables de plástico

    • Al volver a ensamblar, deberá haber suficiente adhesivo aún en estos cables para pegarlos de nuevo en el ventilador.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - Contestar

    This video shows how to do it safely: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AabLlHT5...

    Undo the 3 cables gently. remove the airport card. gently pry away the cables fro the fan plastic. then the camera cable will slide out easily.

    T Master. - Contestar

    I was afraid to just pull on any cables adhered, so I used a spudger edge to very gently “scrape” them up instead.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

    It was much easier following the instructions on the YouTube video, thanks! Looks like the process starts around 4:11.

    Darnell Remy - Contestar

  10. Remueve los cuatro tornillos Torx T5 de 2.2 que sujetan las tapas del conector de cable de placa de E/S.
    • Remueve los cuatro tornillos Torx T5 de 2.2 que sujetan las tapas del conector de cable de placa de E/S.

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - Contestar

    My cable connector covers are not screwed down. Mid 2015 15” MBP. That’s the computer in the title of this article so idk.

    Andrew Sauk - Contestar

    I’m having trouble breaking the 2.2 mm screws loose and I don’t want to strip the head. I’m using the T5 screwdriver. Does anyone know any tricks or suggestions?

    Madeline Young - Contestar

    Ok, so the correct size Torx is the T4, not T5

    Madeline Young -

    Is this really necessary just to replace the LEFT speaker?

    Troy Havard - Contestar

  11. Remueve la tapa del conector izquierdo. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y levantar el extremo izquierdo del cable de placa E/S de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Remueve la tapa del conector izquierdo.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y levantar el extremo izquierdo del cable de placa E/S de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  12. Remueve la tapa del conector derecho. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y levantar el extremo derecho del cable de placa E/S de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Remueve la tapa del conector derecho.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y levantar el extremo derecho del cable de placa E/S de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - Contestar

  13. Saca el cable de placa de E/S del adhesivo que lo sujeta al ventilador.
    • Saca el cable de placa de E/S del adhesivo que lo sujeta al ventilador.

    • Remueve el cable.

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - Contestar

  14. Remueve los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho a la placa lógica
    • Remueve los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho a la placa lógica

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.00 mm con un hombro de 2.0 mm de largo

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 4.0 mm con una cabeza ancha.'

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 4.4 mm

  15. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zócalo ZIF del cable plano del ventilador derecho. Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zócalo ZIF del cable plano del ventilador derecho.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    A note about these ZIF sockets - the retaining flap is just held in place by the small amount of friction, and on reassembly they can separate. I learned to push them down with my finger when possible, or else with a flat end, carefully walking them down side by side to keep it as even as possible. If the flap separates all is not lost ! It’s quite difficult (I did almost everything in this guide with tweezers under magnifiers) but if you remove the cable first, you can get the plastic “comb” back under the pins and up into it’s original position, then replace the cable and try again.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

  16. Levanta el ventilador y empújalo suavemente hacia el borde posterior del MacBook para liberar el cable del ventilador de su zócalo. El cable del ventilador podría estar adherido a la placa lógica —para evitar rasgar el cable, despégalo mientras levantas el ventilador .
    • Levanta el ventilador y empújalo suavemente hacia el borde posterior del MacBook para liberar el cable del ventilador de su zócalo.

    • El cable del ventilador podría estar adherido a la placa lógica —para evitar rasgar el cable, despégalo mientras levantas el ventilador .

    • Remueve el ventilador.

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - Contestar

    Using a spudger does help alleviate stress on the cable. I also used it to help get the cable up from being adhered to the logic board.

    Joshua McMillan - Contestar

    Adding to the other comments, the fan is very light and has no resistance lifting out of the place it sits in.

    I carefully lifted the fan just before there was any tension on the cable.

    With the fan held in my right hand and spudger in my left, I moved the spudger under the fan approaching from the left side.

    This allowed me to easily place the flat end of the spudger under the cable where the thicker plastic sits and gently pry the cable up until the cable broke away from the body.

    I then used the pointed part of the spudger to gently pry the connector part of the cable away from the socket while gently pulling the fan away until the cable was disconnected and the entire fan was free.

    David Carroll - Contestar

  17. Remueve el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2.9 mm que sujeta el SSD a la placa lógica.
    • Remueve el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2.9 mm que sujeta el SSD a la placa lógica.

  18. Levanta el extremo del SSD lo suficiente para pasar por encima del altavoz directamente detrás del SSD. No levantes el SDD demasiado o puedes dañar los contactos o el zócalo. Tira del SSD para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Levanta el extremo del SSD lo suficiente para pasar por encima del altavoz directamente detrás del SSD.

    • No levantes el SDD demasiado o puedes dañar los contactos o el zócalo.

    • Tira del SSD para sacarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  19. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el mecanismo de bloqueo en el conector de la placa de E / S. Voltea el spudger y usa el extremo plano para deslizar el cable E/S fuera del conector. Presiona el mecanismo de bloqueo abierto para una manera fácil de deslizar el cable E/S  fuera del conector. Esto podría ayudar a prevenir daño accidental al cable o a los contactos del conector.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el mecanismo de bloqueo en el conector de la placa de E / S.

    • Voltea el spudger y usa el extremo plano para deslizar el cable E/S fuera del conector.

    • Presiona el mecanismo de bloqueo abierto para una manera fácil de deslizar el cable E/S fuera del conector. Esto podría ayudar a prevenir daño accidental al cable o a los contactos del conector.

    Oh, you rotated the computer while I wasn’t watching.

    prreitz - Contestar

  20. Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.1 mm de la placa E/S.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.1 mm de la placa E/S.

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - Contestar

    It's interesting that you had to remove the heat pipe screw. This didn't seem to be in the way for me. The I/O board came out quite easily without any issues.

    But… it could be different for others as it was for you. I just thought I'd share my experience.

    David Carroll -

    Thanks for the tip! I also had to remove that screw to get the board out.

    maccentric -

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - Contestar

  21. Levanta levemente el borde interior de la placa E/S y jálala hacia el centro de la MacBook, lejos del lado de la caja. Remueve la placa E/S
    • Levanta levemente el borde interior de la placa E/S y jálala hacia el centro de la MacBook, lejos del lado de la caja.

    • Remueve la placa E/S

Conclusión

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Un Comentario

Be _VERY_ careful with the connector on the end of the I/O cable. Especially since it abuts to the speaker. It is easy to insert it diagonally but that could break the edge pins on the connector. Step 19 of this job (and the inverse) needs at least three hands.

Bryan Lunt - Contestar

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