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Reemplazo de la Placa de E/S en la MacBook Pro 15"de Mediados de 2012

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  1. Reemplazo de la Placa de E/S en la MacBook Pro 15"de Mediados de 2012, Placa de E/S: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la Placa de E/S en la MacBook Pro 15"de Mediados de 2012, Placa de E/S: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el bloqueo del cable de datos de la placa de E / S y gíralo hacia el lado de la batería de la computadora.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para deslizar el cable de datos de la placa de E / S directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la placa de E / S, ya que su toma es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Contestar

    Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)

    Simon Anthony -

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Contestar

    gently use tips of tweezers at either side to walk it out

    Christa - Contestar

    It is much more easy to do step 21 before step 20 - this cable is more easy to remove

    Also if you assemble then do step 20 before step 21 - it is more easy to place the cable into the connector

    Muescha - Contestar

    I found it easier to just use my finger nail to release the clamping lever. Then the spudger to ease it out.

    billbonney - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de la Placa de E/S en la MacBook Pro 15"de Mediados de 2012: paso 2, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la Placa de E/S en la MacBook Pro 15"de Mediados de 2012: paso 2, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la Placa de E/S en la MacBook Pro 15"de Mediados de 2012: paso 2, imagen 3 de 3
    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que sujetan la placa de E / S a la placa lógica.

    • En algunos modelos, retirar también el tornillo Torx plateado de 3,5 mm T5 del disipador puede ayudar a retirar la placa de E/S.

    • Levanta con cuidado la placa de E/S y retírela de la carcasa inferior.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Contestar

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Contestar

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Contestar

    I believe, the IO Board can stay where it is, for logic board replacement..?

    smirgle - Contestar

    Yes, I replace motherboard without touch IO Board

    Александр Гращенков -

    On a 2014.5 design, these instructions should be revised on this process. The heat pipe needs to be removed first if one were to remove the I/O CCA, Reason being, the CCA is installed first into the case and then the heat pipe contact tab lays atop the CCA under the plastic injection molded part. This injection molded piece part secures the tab to the CCA to ensure optimal contact thus, ensuring heat is wicked away from the CCA.

    So when I see comments regarding how it is easier to install than remove, that is an indicator that the user was unaware of how to correctly assemble this component thus, the CCA top side substrate is sitting below the heat pipe tab vs. the other way around.

    This will induce a thermal issue on the I/O CCA and also, possibly short out the board when the conformal coating and painted surface of the heat pipe wears off due to vibration when cables are connected.

    While I like these instructions, I would overhaul them and revise them.

    Christopher McKenna - Contestar

    Yes, removing the screw near the heat sink really did make it come out easily!

    David Choy - Contestar

    Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you’re going the be asked to remove on step 29.

    Rafael Pérez - Contestar

    As per comments above, I found it mandatory to remove the extra silver screw near the heat sink, which locked the logic board.

    Hence, the instructions for this step were very relevant:

    "On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal."

    Tim Telcik - Contestar

    If you have a Transcend JetDrive installed, it needs to be removed. It was just so familiar and form-fitting that I forgot it was in there. Removing it made the I/O board suddenly so easy to remove...

    Fredrick Mezger - Contestar

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