Saltar al contenido principal

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar el conector Lightning y cable de toma de auriculares.

Resumen del Video

  1. Antes de desmontar tu iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.
    • Antes de desmontar tu iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga su iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3,6 mm junto al conector Lightning.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Contestar

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Contestar

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Contestar

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Contestar

  2. Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el uso de iSclack, una gran herramienta para la segura apertura de el iPhone 6 Plus que recomendamos a cualquiera que haga mas de una reparación.  Si no estás usando el iSclack, salta al Paso 4 Si el medidor de profundidad de plástico está conectado en el centro del iSclack, sácalo ahora, no es necesario para teléfonos más grandes como el iPhone 6 Plus Cierra la manija en el iSclack, abriendo las mandíbulas de la ventosa.
    • Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el uso de iSclack, una gran herramienta para la segura apertura de el iPhone 6 Plus que recomendamos a cualquiera que haga mas de una reparación. Si no estás usando el iSclack, salta al Paso 4

    • Si el medidor de profundidad de plástico está conectado en el centro del iSclack, sácalo ahora, no es necesario para teléfonos más grandes como el iPhone 6 Plus

    • Cierra la manija en el iSclack, abriendo las mandíbulas de la ventosa.

    • Coloca la parte inferior de su iPhone entre las ventosas.

    • Coloca la copa de succión superior del iSclack contra la pantalla, cerca del botón de inicio.

    • Abre las asas para cerrar las mandíbulas del iSclack. Centrar las ventosas y presionarlas firmemente en la parte superior e inferior del iPhone.

  3. Sostén tu iPhone firmemente y cierra el mango del iSclack para separar las ventosas, tirando del panel frontal hacia arriba desde la carcasa trasera. El iSclack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone lo suficiente para separar las piezas con seguridad, pero no lo suficiente para dañar alguno de los cables de la pantalla.
    • Sostén tu iPhone firmemente y cierra el mango del iSclack para separar las ventosas, tirando del panel frontal hacia arriba desde la carcasa trasera.

    • El iSclack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone lo suficiente para separar las piezas con seguridad, pero no lo suficiente para dañar alguno de los cables de la pantalla.

    • Despega las ventosas de tu iPhone.

    • Omite los siguientes tres pasos y continúa en el Paso 7.

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - Contestar

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Contestar

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Contestar

  4. Si no tienes un iSclack, usa una ventosa para separar el panel frontal:
    • Si no tienes un iSclack, usa una ventosa para separar el panel frontal:

    • Presiona la ventosa sobre la pantalla, justo arriba del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa está presionada firmemente sobre la pantalla para tener un sellado hermético.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Contestar

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Contestar

  5. Mientras sostienes el iPhone hacia abajo con una mano, tire hacia arriba de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.
    • Mientras sostienes el iPhone hacia abajo con una mano, tire hacia arriba de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.

    • Tómate tu tiempo y aplica una fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla es mucho más ajustado que la mayoría de los dispositivos.

    • Con una herramienta de apertura de plástico, comienza a hacer palanca con cuidado hacia abajo la caja trasera, alejándola del conjunto de la pantalla, mientras continúas tirando hacia arriba con la ventosa.

    • Hay varios clips que unen el ensamblaje del panel frontal a la carcasa posterior, por lo que es posible que necesites usar una combinación de la ventosa y la herramienta de apertura de plástico para liberar el conjunto del panel frontal.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Contestar

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Contestar

  6. Tira de la protuberancia de plástico para liberar el sello de vacío en la ventosa. Retira la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
    • Tira de la protuberancia de plástico para liberar el sello de vacío en la ventosa.

    • Retira la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Contestar

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

  7. Tira del extremo del botón de inicio del ensamblaje del panel frontal para separarlo de la caja posterior, utilizando la parte superior del teléfono como una bisagra. Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de aproximadamente 90º y apoyala contra algo para mantenerla levantada mientras está trabajando con el teléfono. Agrega una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla de forma segura en su lugar mientras trabaja. Esto evita una tensión excesiva en los cables de la pantalla.
    • Tira del extremo del botón de inicio del ensamblaje del panel frontal para separarlo de la caja posterior, utilizando la parte superior del teléfono como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de aproximadamente 90º y apoyala contra algo para mantenerla levantada mientras está trabajando con el teléfono.

    • Agrega una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla de forma segura en su lugar mientras trabaja. Esto evita una tensión excesiva en los cables de la pantalla.

    • También, puede usar una lata de bebida sin abrir para sostener la pantalla.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Contestar

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Contestar

  8. Varios clips a lo largo del borde superior del panel frontal forman una bisagra parcial, lo que permite que el conjunto del panel frontal se abra como un libro. Durante el montaje, alinee los clips justo debajo del borde superior de la carcasa trasera. A continuación, desliza el panel frontal hacia arriba hasta que su borde superior quede alineado con el de la carcasa posterior.
    • Varios clips a lo largo del borde superior del panel frontal forman una bisagra parcial, lo que permite que el conjunto del panel frontal se abra como un libro.

    • Durante el montaje, alinee los clips justo debajo del borde superior de la carcasa trasera. A continuación, desliza el panel frontal hacia arriba hasta que su borde superior quede alineado con el de la carcasa posterior.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Contestar

  9. Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips del soporte del conector de la batería:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips del soporte del conector de la batería:

    • Un tornillo de 2.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.1 mm

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Contestar

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Contestar

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Contestar

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Contestar

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Contestar

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Contestar

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Contestar

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

  10. Retira el soporte del conector de la batería de metal del iPhone.
    • Retira el soporte del conector de la batería de metal del iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Contestar

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Contestar

  11. Uss una uña limpia o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para levantar suavemente el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica
    • Uss una uña limpia o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para levantar suavemente el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica

    • Ten cuidado de solo levantar el conector de la batería, y no el enchufe de la placa lógica. Si se levanta en el zócalo de la placa lógica, puedes romper el conector por completo.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Contestar

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Contestar

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Contestar

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Contestar

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Contestar

  12. Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.5 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.9 mm

    • No intentes insertar tornillos más largos en los orificios de tornillo marcados en rojo. Hacerlo puede provocar daños irreparables en la placa lógica.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Contestar

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

    garth libhart - Contestar

    You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.

    oscar -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Contestar

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Contestar

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Contestar

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Contestar

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Contestar

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Contestar

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Contestar

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Contestar

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Contestar

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Contestar

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Contestar

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Contestar

  13. Retira el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal de la placa lógica.
    • Retira el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal de la placa lógica.

  14. Baterías para ordenadores portátiles

    Un pequeño arreglo para un gran resultado.

    Comprar Ahora

    Baterías para ordenadores portátiles

    Un pequeño arreglo para un gran resultado.

    Comprar Ahora
  15. En los próximos cuatro pasos, ten cuidado de hacer palanca solo en los conectores del cable, y no en sus enchufes en la placa lógica. Mientras sigues apoyando el panel frontal, uss una uña o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para desconectar la cámara frontal y el conector del cable del altavoz del auricular.
    • En los próximos cuatro pasos, ten cuidado de hacer palanca solo en los conectores del cable, y no en sus enchufes en la placa lógica.

    • Mientras sigues apoyando el panel frontal, uss una uña o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para desconectar la cámara frontal y el conector del cable del altavoz del auricular.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Contestar

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Contestar

  16. Desconecta el conector del cable del botón de inicio. Desconecta el conector del cable del botón de inicio.
    • Desconecta el conector del cable del botón de inicio.

  17. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar el cable en este paso. Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para desconectar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla. Al volver a armar su teléfono, el cable de datos de la pantalla puede salirse del conector.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar el cable en este paso.

    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para desconectar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla. Al volver a armar su teléfono, el cable de datos de la pantalla puede salirse del conector.

    • Esto puede ocasionar líneas blancas o una pantalla en blanco al volver a encender su teléfono. Si eso sucede, simplemente vuelve a conectar el cable y enciende su teléfono. La mejor manera de encender y apagar tu teléfono es desconectar y volver a conectar el conector de la batería.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Contestar

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Contestar

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Finalmente, desconects el conector del cable del digitalizador. Al volver a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector, luego presiona el extremo opuesto. Presionar en el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.
    • Finalmente, desconects el conector del cable del digitalizador.

    • Al volver a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector, luego presiona el extremo opuesto. Presionar en el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Contestar

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    ChiangFeng - Contestar

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Contestar

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Contestar

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Contestar

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Contestar

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Contestar

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Contestar

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Contestar

  19. Retira el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.
    • Retira el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Contestar

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Contestar

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Contestar

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Contestar

  20. Levanta el cable conector del vibrador de su zócalo en la placa lógica con el extremo plano de un spudger. Levanta el cable conector del vibrador de su zócalo en la placa lógica con el extremo plano de un spudger.
    • Levanta el cable conector del vibrador de su zócalo en la placa lógica con el extremo plano de un spudger.

    Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.

    grabauski - Contestar

  21. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de antena de interconexión de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de antena de interconexión de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  22. Toma el cable de antena de interconexión con un par de pinzas y con cuidado apártalo de su canal en el ensamblaje del vibrador. Toma el cable de antena de interconexión con un par de pinzas y con cuidado apártalo de su canal en el ensamblaje del vibrador.
    • Toma el cable de antena de interconexión con un par de pinzas y con cuidado apártalo de su canal en el ensamblaje del vibrador.

  23. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 2.5 mm que sujeta el vibrador a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 2.5 mm que sujeta el vibrador a la caja trasera.

    These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions

    tony aviles - Contestar

    if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.

    Sarah Ybarra - Contestar

    There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.

    Now,Method one: use a rubberband

    Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.

    GoodLuck

    Vegeta Barrett - Contestar

  24. Remueve el vibrador del iPhone.
    • Remueve el vibrador del iPhone.

  25. Toma el conector de antena con un par de pinzas y con cuidado comienza a desviarlo de su canal en el altavoz. Toma el conector de antena con un par de pinzas y con cuidado comienza a desviarlo de su canal en el altavoz.
    • Toma el conector de antena con un par de pinzas y con cuidado comienza a desviarlo de su canal en el altavoz.

    I suggest adding in an advisory to "carefully apply pressure against the metal channel that is holding down the antenna cable", because if you just de-rout only handing the cable, the cable snags against the metal channel and in my case has split the cable covering open by half an inch on my iPhone 6 Plus.

    ***edit*** Suggest adding Step 25 into Step 24

    Jamie LB - Contestar

  26. Para desviar completamente el conector de antena, podrías necesitar con cuidado abrir el clip de metal que sujeta el ensamblaje de altavoz.
    • Para desviar completamente el conector de antena, podrías necesitar con cuidado abrir el clip de metal que sujeta el ensamblaje de altavoz.

  27. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz de la caja trasera:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz de la caja trasera:

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.3 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.8 mm

  28. Levanta y remueve el altavoz de tu iPhone.
    • Levanta y remueve el altavoz de tu iPhone.

    Thank you very much !

    Binh - Contestar

  29. Remueva los dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.3 mm que sujetan el soporte metálico al ensamblaje del conector Lightning.
    • Remueva los dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.3 mm que sujetan el soporte metálico al ensamblaje del conector Lightning.

  30. Utilice un par de pinzas para levantar y quitar el soporte metálico del iPhone.
    • Utilice un par de pinzas para levantar y quitar el soporte metálico del iPhone.

  31. Utilice el borde plano de la herramienta spudger para sacar el cable de la antena del conector en el ensamblaje del conector Lightning.
    • Utilice el borde plano de la herramienta spudger para sacar el cable de la antena del conector en el ensamblaje del conector Lightning.

  32. Levante y retire el conector de la antena del iPhone.
    • Levante y retire el conector de la antena del iPhone.

  33. Retire los siguientes tornillos Phillips #00 que sujetan el ensamble del conector Lightning a la carcasa trasera:
    • Retire los siguientes tornillos Phillips #00 que sujetan el ensamble del conector Lightning a la carcasa trasera:

    • Dos tornillos de 3.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.8 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 1.7 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 1.5 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 1.4 mm

    There were 3x1.4 and a single 1.5 that was in the top right, which makes sense in regards to the frame location.

    Crav - Contestar

    I don't have the 3.8mm for that spot. Just double checking on of that's the correct size

    Sare - Contestar

  34. Utilice un par de pinzas para agarrar el clip de plástico que se encuentra a la derecha de la toma de auriculares y retirelo del iPhone.
    • Utilice un par de pinzas para agarrar el clip de plástico que se encuentra a la derecha de la toma de auriculares y retirelo del iPhone.

  35. El siguiente paso requiere pelar el conector Lightning y el cable del conector para auriculares que está pegado en el interior de la caja posterior con un adhesivo suave. Recomendamos encarecidamente utilizar un iOpener para calentar la parte posterior inferior de la caja trasera.
    • El siguiente paso requiere pelar el conector Lightning y el cable del conector para auriculares que está pegado en el interior de la caja posterior con un adhesivo suave. Recomendamos encarecidamente utilizar un iOpener para calentar la parte posterior inferior de la caja trasera.

  36. Usa una púa de apertura para separar lentamente el conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares de la caja trasera. Con cuidado desliza la púa por el lado derecho del conector Lightning y cable conector de auriculares, asegúrate de detenerte cuando llegues a la parte inferior. Con cuidado desliza la púa por el lado derecho del conector Lightning y cable conector de auriculares, asegúrate de detenerte cuando llegues a la parte inferior.
    • Usa una púa de apertura para separar lentamente el conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares de la caja trasera.

    • Con cuidado desliza la púa por el lado derecho del conector Lightning y cable conector de auriculares, asegúrate de detenerte cuando llegues a la parte inferior.

  37. Inserta la púa por debajo de la esquina derecha inferior del conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares.
    • Inserta la púa por debajo de la esquina derecha inferior del conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares.

  38. Desliza la púa de apertura a través de la parte superior del conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares para soltar el adhesivo que lo sujeta a la caja trasera. Desliza la púa de apertura a través de la parte superior del conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares para soltar el adhesivo que lo sujeta a la caja trasera.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura a través de la parte superior del conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares para soltar el adhesivo que lo sujeta a la caja trasera.

  39. Levanta y remueve el conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares del iPhone.
    • Levanta y remueve el conector Lightning y cable del conector de auriculares del iPhone.

    • Antes de instalar o reemplazar el ensamblaje de conector Lightning:

    • Usa una herramienta plástica para remover trozos de residuo de adhesivo de la caja trasera detrás del cable.

    • Compara tu pieza de repuesto con la original y nota cualquier diferencia. Es posible que encuentre una junta de goma adherida a la antigua toma de auriculares, que debe transferirse a la nueva pieza si es necesario

    • Realiza una prueba de ajuste de la pieza de repuesto y luego retira las láminas protectoras o revestimientos de plástico antes de instalarlos

    When reassembling, the new part had a bunch of little blue tabs where I had to reveal the adhesive. It would be worth an explicit step description explaining which blue tabs to remove and which to leave, as well as which end to start with (seat the headphone jack first, then line up the screw holes across the bottom edge, etc.) I panicked when I seated the jack and it looked like the screw holes didn't line up, before I realized I had to bend the connector to the jack to make the rest of it fit properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

    Tommy Beaulieu - Contestar

    Yeah.  Thank yu.

    Douglas Trout -

    My new assembly was missing a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack and a small plastic spacer glued to the microphone. These had to be salvaged from the old assembly. Both are easy to loose once removed from the old assembly! Also all of the tabs (blue and yellow) have to be removed to activate the adhesive they are protecting. This should be noted in the instruction steps.

    Bob Haworth - Contestar

    I completely agree with Tommy and Bob as I have encountered the same issue. The little rubber piece became lost when doing the replacement. I managed to find the same little piece at an iPhone repair store where they luckily had some of extra of these and they just gave me one. Still nowhere on the internet, I can seem to find a proper transfer video of this little rubber part. It would be very helpful to add the steps in the replacement.

    Varol Keskin - Contestar

    totally agree with the comments above! thanks so much for pointing that out. i would have lost it. please add this to the replacement guide!

    Knrd - Contestar

    Iv’e seen this happen a few times as well so I just wanted to post a comment about it. The mic ribbon is very thin and if you do not gently separate the mic from the frame there is a chance that the ribbon will tear. It does not take much force for that ribbon to tear.

    Wesley Savaloja - Contestar

    Beside the earphone jack gasket, also watch out for the lightning port covering that would probably be attached (via adhesive) to the original lightning port and headphone jack cable. Be sure to migrate that part also, otherwise there will be a gap between the iphone’s lightning port opening and the actual lightning port itself.

    My original bottom mic stopped working, and the replacement works, but the volume is low. I should be good to get a few more years out of the iPhone.

    Calvin Wang - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

119 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

90%

¡ Mariana nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

I did this tonight, took about 45 min. I used my iFixit tool kit to all the work.

When putting it back together I had an issue with my screen going all "white lines", turns out it was just a loose connection on the digitizer cable, I lifted it and placed it again and all is good with the world.

I had to replace the assembly because I was getting feedback when making calls with headphones and no voice at all with headphones if the phone was plugged into power. Now I can do both.

Thanks so much iFixit for making this possible.

rianrachel - Contestar

After fixing my headset jack successfully, people could not hear me clearly on the mic. I took it apart again today. The clip that holds the mic in place, next to the jack, had been put down too tight to the mic, which kept it from moving enough to pick sound up clearly -- everything was muddied. I only had to pull the case open a little, unscrew the mic assembly to loosen it, wiggle it back a bit, move the mic a little to align it better with the hole, and then tighten it back down. It works beautifully now and everyone says I sound better than ever. A really easy fix, but it could have been avoided if there were instructions on putting everything back together or at least tips for little things like this.

maztec - Contestar

My iphone stuck into headphone,what can i do to fix it?please help me as soon as possible

Tannaz pourian - Contestar

Hi @Tannaz pourian

If you are stuck on headphone mode first thing you can do is a quick fix if it works for you. You first turn off your iphone and with a gentle hand you can pull out any dirt or particals inside your headphone jack with a pin then clean it with a cotton bud with a little acitone or alcohol ( Don’t use too much of alcohol only little would be fine otherwise it could damage you display if it gets into your phone). Then after completing this process let it dry for a while and turn on your phone. I hope it works for you:) orthewise you have to replace your whole cc flex pannel. Good luck

Rishabh Madaan -

I recently replaced the headphone jack but when I tried it out after successfully replacing it, the headphones still gave a crackling sound. Less than before but still very noticeable. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this issue?

collinwanat - Contestar

Can I use this guide to replace the lightning port in an iPhone 6S?

crssnt - Contestar

On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Tommy Beaulieu - Contestar

Try here http://www.3cparts.com/?goods=detail&id=... I don't know if it comes with the piece you need or not but it is worth a shot.

BJ Bures -

Merci pour le tuto ! J'ai pris le temps car c'était la première fois que j'ouvrais un téléphone de ma vie mais j'y suis arrivé ! Suivez pas à pas le tutoriel et la video qui vas avec et vous réussirez à coup sur ! Merci Ifixit pour vos conseils.

hoennremi - Contestar

This guide saved me hundreds of dollars. thank you for a great job putting this together!! the i fixit tools were cheap and worth every penny. my iPhone 6 Plus now can be seen by the mac and syncs music like a champ. great sound quality on speaker mode and the headphones work great. charges like brand new.

Michael Adams - Contestar

just did it now it take around 25 minutes thanks so helpful page

mohamed.rashad1989 - Contestar

amazing thanks so much

mohamed.rashad1989 - Contestar

Just performed the repair but have 2 tiny rubber, what look like they may be vibration absorbers left. Where do they go?

Jack - Contestar

Thank you iFixit for the instructions and parts. I did this within less than an hour, and all due to the other times that I repaired older models throughout the years. iFixit has been invaluable to me in resurrection of my broken phone(s). Having pulled apart an iPhone 4 a few times, and an iPhone 5, this seemed much easier in comparison. But again, this is really all due to iFixit being around this long and providing top notch instructions, even for the novice. Thank you so much!

nuklearfusion - Contestar

After doing this . The phone is all black . Won't turn on at all . I don't know what is happening but the only thing that the computer is the recovery mode

osh20x - Contestar

Fixed!!!

Ok, before you rush to the apple store or if brave enough, decide to do this yourself.

There are 3 small sprint loaded contacts inside the jacks, mine had some black marks on them, and there was no sound in the headphone.

Take a small piece of cotton and a straight thin tweezer or a toothpick, wet it lightly with mineral spirit, turpentine or alcohol. Stick it inside the jack and spin it/clean the contacts. Reset the phone and now it's like brand new.

They probably do the same thing at your local shop and charge you $100 bucks... The dirty best kept secret.

If the cotton ball get stock inside, don't panic. Stick the cotton in the middle and spin whatever you are using couple of rounds, the cotton will catch the tweezer, toothpick. It will also help if you slide the headphone jack along those contacts couple of times, sometime one of those spring get "stuck". Good luck!!

ck ng - Contestar

If My iPhone 6 Plus syncing pins are damaged would this be the best thing for me to do by changing the lighting connector

Tevon - Contestar

So Basically This is identical to an iphone 6, infact identical, except a few steps are in a different order, although those steps that are different can be performed in any order...

\

DVS - Contestar

I've done this before and it's a easy 45 minute fix. Just a FYI some of the antennas are stuck to the guide around the speaker so don't pull very hard with your tweezers.

JR Gonzales - Contestar

I also have a a crackling left headphone after this repair.

The left ear used to be dead, but after the fix it is back but distorting and crackling heavily.

Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this?

Thank you very much

Shai Yammanee - Contestar

Done today with the iFixit tool kit, set of picks and iOpener, very simple work.

My problem was that the lightning connector was so consumed that it didn’t even properly connect anymore, making charging the phone a nightmare, and also the remote control on the headphones didn’t work anymore. Now everything works, it’s like new.

This guide made me save hundreds of euro, and (I hope) it extended the life of my iPhone 6 plus for another year.

Thanks iFixit!

Marco Gusso - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 Horas: 37

Últimos 7 Días: 214

Últimos 30 Días: 1,199

Todo El Tiempo: 135,255