Introducción
Usa esta guía para reemplazar una cámara frontal con fallas en tu iPhone 8 Plus. Esta cámara es parte de un ensamblaje más grande que contiene un micrófono y sensores de proximidad/luz ambiente. Se pueden reemplazarse como una sola unidad.
Qué necesitas
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Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.
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Quita los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.5 mm del borde inferior del iPhone.
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Coloca varias cintas sobrepuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta que toda la cara este cubierta.
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Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa de succión se pegue en los siguientes pasos, dobla una pieza fuerte de cinta (como cinta de aislar) en un pequeño maneral y levanta la pantalla con eso.
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Los tres próximos pasos muestran el funcionamiento del Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando el Anti-Clamp, avanza tres pasos hacia abajo para seguir un método alternativo.
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Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.
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Coloca las ventosas justo encima del botón de inicio en la pantalla, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
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Aprieta las ventosas para aplicar succión en la zona deseada.
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Empuja la manija azul hacia delante para fijar las abrazaderas.
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Gira la manija 360 grados en sentido horario o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a apretarse.
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Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre si. Si comienzan a desalinearse, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
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Calienta un iOpener y colócalo entre las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Dobla el iOpener para que se apoye sobre el borde inferior del iPhone.
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Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se suelte y se abra un hueco.
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Inserta una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un hueco lo suficientemente grande.
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Omite los siguientes dos pasos.
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Utiliza un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo sobre el borde inferior del iPhone durante unos 90 segundos para ablandar el adhesivo que hay debajo.
6/14/23 I did this repair but used a heat gun on low for 60 seconds. This allowed me to open the case as the instructions say, but in the end the Home button failed. I probably over heated it. I used this "go around" for a virtual Home button. I don't care about touch ID:
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Aplica una ventosa a mitad inferior del panel frontal. justo por arriba del botón de inicio.
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
Oh my goodness! Don't do that again. You can definitely damage something in the phone if you use a sharp metal razor blade..
cytur -
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Jala hacia arriba la ventosa con presión constante y firme para crear un pequeña grieta entre el panel frontal y caja trasera.
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Introduce una púa de apertura u otra herramienta de apertura en la grieta unos pocos milímetros.
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
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Desliza tu púa alrededor de la esquina y por arriba del borde izquierdo del teléfono, moviéndola hacia los botones de control de volumen e interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.
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Deténte cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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Vuelve a introducir tu herramienta en la esquina derecha inferior del teléfono y deslízala alrededor de la esquina y hacia arriba del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo.
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para soltar el último resto del adhesivo.
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
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Abre el iPhone girando la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.
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Apoya la pantalla contra algo para que se quede parada mientras trabajas en el teléfono.
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips (JIS) que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:
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Dos tornillos de 1.3 mm
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Un tornillo de 1.4 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.7 mm
The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Dobla el cable conector hacia arriba suavemente para prevenir que haga accidentalmente contacto con el zócalo y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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Usa la punta de un spudge o la uña para desconectar el conector grande inferior de pantalla levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.
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Desconectar el segundo conector inferior de cable de pantalla, directamente atrás del que has desconectado en el paso previo.
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Y000 tri-point que sujetan el soporte encima del conector de ensamblaje del sensor de panel frontal:
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Un tornillo de 1.0 mm
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Un tornillo de 1.2 mm
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
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Usa la punta de un spudger o uña para desconectar el conector del ensamblaje de sensor de panel frontal de su zócalo.
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Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?
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Remueve los cinco tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del altavoz auricular.
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Dos tornillos de 1.8 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.3 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.4 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.8 mm
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Con cuidado dobla el cable plano conectado y el de cámara hacia la parte inferior del iPhone para permitir acceso a los componentes debajo.
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Usa un secador de pelo o una pistola de aire caliente o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo a la parte frontal superior de la pantalla durante un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta los sensores.
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Introduce el borde afilado de una herramienta de apertura de iFixit por debajo del cable flexible del ensamblaje de la cámara, en el lado opuesto de la cámara frontal.
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Haz palanca para separar el borde del cable flexible de la parte posterior de la pantalla.
FYI i think you should put up a warning on which side you should start the prying from. If you start prying from the top there’s a risk of prying apart the two parts of the flex cables that are soldered together. If you start from the bottom as pictured you should be safer, but I think it should be specified in text on this guide… because I managed to do this mistake and have to order the whole front cam/speaker/etc. assembly now. My own fault but still, haha!
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Remueve el ensamblaje de cable de sensor y cámara frontal.
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Una pieza de cinta aislante negra de doble lado se encuentra entre la pantalla y las tres hileras de contactos de bronce en la parte trasera del cable de sensor/cámara. Podría quedarse atascada a la pantalla o podría salir con el cable.
Why is the insulating tape needed, and what other materials should I using instead of it if I loose the tape?
I moved the insulating tape from the broken screen to the new screen.
Don’t forget to check if your new screen assembly has the two plastic pieces for the camera and proximity detector. You’ll need to move them from the old screen if it doesn’t have them.
Hi, is it possible for the flex cable to work without placing he tape over the contacts?
Thanks
I forgot to add move the double sided tape over and I’m wondering if that was why my ear speaker wasn’t working. I opened it back up and put the tape on the new screen but the speaker is still not working. Any ideas? Did the speaker “short” out?
Mine the same , did you solve the problem? Thank you
I bought the ifixit tool kit iPhone plus 8 screen. Do i need to skip this step ? (not sure)
Whenever I had my camera unit and speaker in, it prevented my phone from charging or finding my sim. Any explanation for this? seems really strange to me
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Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
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8 comentarios
What happens if the camera/ sensor cables come apart but dont tear if ya know what i mean? theres 2 cables and theyre like taped on top of one another and they connect eachother… well, in my case they just came apart..
Just had the same problem. I placed a new flexcable, they're not very expensive.
Salve,
Ho proceduto alla sostituzione della camera frontale ma, quando accendo il tel il sistema si avvia in modalità loop senza mai avviare il sistema operativo.
Ovviamente se non collego il flat della camera frontale il telefono si avvia regolarmente. Ho anche provato con una camera frontale nuova senza risultato.
Potreste aiutarmi?
I removed one of the 2 small circular stickers (one is white, one green) from where the sensor gets placed. Is it a problem?
After replacing the screen on an iphone 8 plus, the earpiece speaker won’t work. I tried everything and it just won’t work, I’m guessing the flex cable got damaged when transfering it from the old to the new screen. Are the gold “contacts” supposed to be making contact with something or only the black tape?
Has anyone else had this problem?
I don’t know if changing the flex will solve the problem or should i change both the flex and the earpiece just to be sure?
Same thing happend to me today, did you manage to fix it by fiddling with the flex(as someone suggested) or did you replace it?
For me the 8 plus front camera flex is the most delicate part. I hate doing this job its very seldom I dont replace this part when replacing LCD. I don't know if its just me hehehe
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - Contestar
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - Contestar
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -