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Reemplaza la batería de tu MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody de mediados de 2010. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones apropiadas.

  1. Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la caja inferior al MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:
    • Retira los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la caja inferior al MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

    • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

    • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - Contestar

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha ( cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - Contestar

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - Contestar

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - Contestar

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Contestar

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone:

    Eric Sorenson - Contestar

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - Contestar

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - Contestar

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - Contestar

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Contestar

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - Contestar

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - Contestar

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - Contestar

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - Contestar

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - Contestar

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - Contestar

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - Contestar

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - Contestar

    j’ai remarqué que le 4 vis philips courtes sur le bord avant ont une courte entretoise

    celles des cotés n’en ont pas et sont courtes

    la dernière sur le bord qui comporte les 3 longues, est un poil plus longue

    si l’on ne fait pas attention, les vis des cotés ne peuvent pas se visser à fond et dépassent un peu

    parfait pour le reste ! Merci

    Vincent Morault - Contestar

    I am pretty sure that one of the tools listed as needed has changed from when I looked it up last week and placed the order, and is a mistake. Here is a screen shot of the first step to replacing the fan on my Mac unibody. Doesn’t a 3mm Phillips call for a #1 PH screwdriver? Is the mistake in the size of the screw or the screwdriver designation? And I am sure the last time I looked it did not say I needed to remove 13.5 mm Phillips screws. Maybe I can figure it out, but I once ruined a laptop by dropping a back screw from the screwdriver into the innards. I never found it - until it rattled around and ruined the computer! Should I guess? What does everyone think?

    Virginia S Moe - Contestar

  2. Levanta ligeramente la caja inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberar las lengüetas de montaje.
    • Levanta ligeramente la caja inferior y empuja hacia la parte posterior para liberar las lengüetas de montaje.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc:

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Contestar

  3. Kits para Nintendo Switch

    Una solución rápida para volver al juego

    Comprar kits de Switch

    Kits para Nintendo Switch

    Una solución rápida para volver al juego

    Comprar kits de Switch
  4. Retira los siguientes tornillos de tres puntos que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos de tres puntos que sujetan la batería a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo de tres puntos de 5.5 mm.

    • Un tornillo de tres puntos de 13.5 mm.

    Where can I buy 5.5 mm tri-wing screw and 13.5 mm tri-wing screw ?

    gansodesoya - Contestar

    I have the same question? Where can you buy new screws. Apple put in these rediculous tri-screws.... The short one went in crooked and jammed. I couldn't get the long one back in at all, not sure why, but it's not catching a single thread.

    My 2nd question is, what the alternative if you can't get the screws back in (e.g. some kind of tape). With only one screw only half way in and jammed, the battery doesn't seem to be moving around, so I think I'm ok, at least for now.

    Mike Mullally -

    similar issue here, I'd like to buy these bolts new. and it would be even better to buy new ones but with a philips head, not a triwing head. please let us know. thanks.

    Manuel Torres -

    Still no answers on this?

    jasperr4 - Contestar

    You can get the tri-wings from ifixit directly - Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

    or get the whole kit (like I did - it's excellent) - Classic Pro Tech Toolkit

    Damian Haslam - Contestar

    i have a triwing y1 and it doesn't work with my battery it seems to be too big, the triwings sold on ifixit are the same when it is written y1 ?

    Grazia Fiore -

    The Y1-Three wing screwdriver from iFixit is too big!

    Maik Lischke -

    Just dropping saw someone with same name. :)

    mdtorresjr - Contestar

    Mine does not have triwing screws.... They have 5 points but none of my torx stuff works? What is it? I have one of your sets of 20 or so pieces and nothing works.....

    Chris Babcock - Contestar

    pentalobe. its an apple specific driver to keep you out. The bottoms of the airs use this as well. You can fid one on eBay

    ryan rochford -

    sure enough mine has the 5 star torx as well.. this drove me crazy today.....i had to buy a set of 5 stars from amazon....i thought i was losing my mind trying to make the tri wing fit....i finally opened my wife's 2010 macbook pro to find tri wings....then i knew. steve jobs was messing with me from the


    Used a knife and a rubber band to unscrew these.

    dovydas54 - Contestar

    Pentalobe driver for newer Mac laptops worked, not the tri tip.

    joeltbean - Contestar

    These screws do absolutely NOT have the TRI-WING® recess. I find, the LHSTIX 3ULR MicroStix size 3ULR-0 driver fits perfectly.

    unsubstantiated - Contestar

    You're right and there was some inconsistent terminology in the guide. It should be fixed now. The term "tri-wing" doesn't apply here but I believe generic "tri-point" Y0 or Y1 drivers correspond to the Microstix driver you mention.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    A minor improvement, but it would be nice to remind fixers which screw length goes on which side (longer screw on _ side?)

    Mike - Contestar

    Was able to open them using a flathead 1,5mm.

    Just be careful not to damage the screws.

    Thomas - Contestar

    Been trying for an hour to re-screw in long try point screw. Cannot seat it no matter what we try so far.

    Tried screwing in the short one first and that didn’t work either to set the right attack.


    karen spangenberg - Contestar

  5. Utilizar el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Utilizar el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    use two spudgers, one of each side of the connector.

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - Contestar

    I was able to use 1 spudger. Just wiggled a little on each of the 3 free sides of the connector, and kept going around until the connector freed up.

    Brian - Contestar

  6. Levanta la batería fuera de la caja superior.
    • Levanta la batería fuera de la caja superior.

    • Si estás instalando una batería nueva, debes calibrarla luego de la instalación.

    • Cárgala hasta el 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si notas alguna conducta o problema inusual luego de instalar tu batería nueva, podrías necesitar restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

    Did everything correctly, but now the battery doesn't charge. Do I have to do something in particular to make it work now that's installed? Thanks

    Olivier - Contestar

    I am answering a 2 year old post but this is for those who may have the same or similar issue in the future.

    When I was putting the battery connector back on that it didn't sit flat against the board before I put pressure on the top of the connecter to press it back into its socket. I then took time to examine the battery connector socket and saw it consisted of long thin vertical pins. I deduced that if the battery connector was not aligned correctly to the pins on the motherboard then it may be very easy to bend one or more of the pins in a way that they wouldn't mate up with the opposing female part on the connector. That sure would cause a battery charging issue. If you feel too much resistance when pressing the connector back into the socket then stop and make sure it is all aligned correctly. I know, not easy with the size, the black connector and black socket. A spudger can be used on the battery side of the connector to raise it to a level position prior to applying pressure to the top of it.

    Joseph King -

    Everything was so easy but that is not the highlight of it all; the replacement parts are cheaper than buying it from a local store here in Taiwan or in The Philippines.

    mdtorresjr - Contestar

    Olivier, to answer your question, please read the 1st comment in the Guide section at the top. :)

    aspeegle - Contestar

    I have the same problem as Oliver. Replaced the battery, it Works, but don't charge. I don't see any comment on this page that answer his question.

    torbernhardsen -

    I too encountered the same problem. After resetting the SMC (, it resolved the problem.

    2CentsNoneTheRicher - Contestar

    Replaced the battery without trouble. But now I turn on the computer and get a white screen. Any idea what I am missing?

    Claire Hoelmer - Contestar

    I put the battery in ok, then placed it on charge and tried to start it. It didn't like this at all, letting out evenly spaced unfamiliar beeps. I felt sure i had done something terrible. I held down the start button and turned it off. Half an hour later I turned it back on, upon which it sprung back to life, much to my relief. The battery needed to be charged before starting it seems.

    Guy Wishart - Contestar

    Repair it friend

    MAHER YASIN - Contestar


    ich habe die Batterie wie beschrieben getauscht und kalibriert. Ich komme jedoch nicht über eine Akkulaufzeit von 2 Std hinaus. Womit hängt das zusammen?

    timo.staab - Contestar

    Hi Timo. Please write in English as this is an English-speaking site. That way you will significantly increase the probability of eliciting a response.

    (Servus Timo. Dies ist eine enlischsprachige Website, daher ist es wünschenswert und höflich Nachrichten und Fragen auf Englisch zu stellen. Du erhöhst dadurch ausserdem die Wahrscheinlichkeit, dass dir jemand antwortet.)

    A 2 hour battery runtime is indeed a bit on the low end of what you can expect from a new battery; of course, this will depend on the load and apps that you are running in the background. When you installed the new battery, did you go through the full calibration charge/discharge cycle as described? What is the full charge capacity of your new battery (About this Mac → System Report → Hardware → Power → Charge Information → Full Charge Capacity).

    Maurits Evers -

    Hello together. replaced my battery at my macboob pro 13“ mid 2010, had some same issues: battery is not recognized. Not in coconut battery nor in mac os. Seems like it not there. Pushed power button 5 seconds when battery was replaced, also reseted smc via keyboard. Not working. Battery loads more then six hours. Battery status check button on the left side only works when power cable is attached :/ any ideas or something i can do more?

    best regards. Niko

    Nikolas Palm - Contestar


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You guys are awesome! My granddaughter spilled a whole coke on the Mac and it went fizz! After some weeks I took it to the Apple store where it was declared it dead. They offered me a refurbished machine for $800, but insteaed I came home, took the disk out and hooked it via a USB carrier to another Mac which proved that the disk had not been harmed. I put it back in the machine and booted up at which point it became obvious that the battery was dead. One pass at Google turned up IFixIt where I found the battery and the correct, goofy tri-point screwdriver. The battery arrived a bit ago and the Mac is up and running as if nothing happened . . . a tidy savings of $650!

Thanks so much1

amzbay - Contestar

This was a total life saver! A few weeks ago my house was hit by lightning and even though my computer wasn't plugged in (thank God!) my charger was completely fried. I ordered a new charger but my computer still wasn't working- Apple said my computer was done for. A friend said it was probably my battery and told me about I was able to buy a new battery and change it myself (it was so easy!!!). Saved me from spending a bunch of $$ at the Apple store. I move out of the Country in a few weeks and didn't know what I was going to do without a computer. Thanks ifixit!!!

talithab - Contestar

Though Apple says this battery should be replaced only by Apple without damage. Is this BS?

Wayne - Contestar

Worked like a charm:)

NickDanielWright - Contestar

Awesome tutorial! It worked out great for me. Thanks!!

MLoren - Contestar

Ordered everything from ifixit and followed the guide -- it worked perfectly and saved me a ton of money. Thank you!

mstombaugh735 - Contestar

When I followed this exactly, I booted up my MacBook to see that my battery had an x through it with the no battery availible popping up when I scrolled over it. I (stupidly) left the computer on while I browsed for a solution. The whole time my charger showed a green light. Suddenly the computer turned off and hasn't been able to be turned back on since despite switching to another battery and another charger. The charger still shows a green light, which means the battery is either fully charged or installed incorrectly. I don't understand how it can be installed incorrectly when the only part to put it into the computer is the plug in. Please someone help me, I have no idea how to fix it and have made multiple forums on here asking for help, to no avail.

Jack Roche - Contestar

I think you are SOL. I had same problem a few days ago. I have attempted everything I could find from online resources. Bottom Line: ship it to an Apple authorized repair shop or an Apple Store. Battery replacement Cost is now only $130, which isn't much more than iFixIt cost.

gkofga -

Your connector or socket may have broken. Open the Mac and check if you missed something.

TheYootz Media Group -

Don´t bother ordering a battery from anywhere other than iFixit. Their batteries are actually OEM parts and they include a warranty for 1 Year (most batteries from other places, like amazon, typically have 30, 90, 180 day warranties. After installing, make sure to FULLY charge the computer (don´t use it during the first charge!) to make sure your battery life is prolonged to its fullest lifespan.

Everett Whiteman - Contestar


I did that and it seems like the battery does not last very long and even before it reached 1% after the first charge, it just turned off by itself. Does this mean there is a problem with the battery?

Isabel Alvarez -

iFixIt batteries do not work if you are running OS 10.11.2. Tried 2 iFixIt batteries and received guidance from iFixIt customer support.... Same result, it didn't work. Just spend a few dollars more and take it to an Apple Store.

gkofga - Contestar

So what was the reason given by Apple as to why the battery replacement did not work? I just replaced mine 2010 mbp, running 10.11.5 seemingly no issues.

Jack -

Great guide. When I saw how simple these instructions looked, I made up my mind: instead of leaving my MacBook Pro for a week at the local Apple Service Provider (why should they have to keep it so long?), I would change the battery myself at about a third of the cost. Working slowly and carefully, the whole thing took less than 10 minutes.

I would add just one thing: those 3 mm Phillips screws are really, really tiny. Do be careful where you put them down!

michaelcook - Contestar

I replaced the battery and everything is fine, but it seems like the battery is too thick and now the trackpad doesn't click. I've disassembled it to look for missing foam pads, but nothing. Any suggestions?

chrisv - Contestar

How long does battery keep off power? Also, further above are reports of issues with 10.11.2. I am on 10.11.4. Does it work? Thanks

iangrech - Contestar

I have a 2010 mbp running 10.11.5, just swapped in the battery yesterday, seems to run fine. system shows the battery info including age of battery and number of charge cycles (up to 2 now!).

Jack -

Just received my replacement battery today, and it was so so easy to put in - everything worked exactly how they described it would!! my battery is charging normally again and it says the battery condition is normal (before it said: replace now) and its charging well so far. This was one of the easiest cost effective things I've ever done. Save yourself time and money, and use this site to fix your battery.

Roseann Harmon - Contestar

Tip tope Anleitung. Teure Reparatur im Apple Store für meinen Opa gespart. Vielen lieben Dank. Diese Anleitung hat mir Mut gemacht und ich dachte schon, ich könnte unter Umständen mein MacBook Pro auf den Müll schmeissen. Vielen lieben Dank dem Autor. Ich bin begeistert.

Alice Obrist - Contestar

Hi, I followed all the instructions, but the new battery isn't charging and doesn't seem to be recognised when I pull up a system report. I have reset SMC, but the battery icon alternates between showing 0%, 77% and an x. It certainly isn't charging. The machine powers up on mains. The system report say battery stays is Normal. but the battery won't charge. Any ideas?

edwardchance - Contestar

Thank you This instructional page made changing the battery out on my Mac simple. - Michael T

mkahny - Contestar

Thank you

I bought the three tools and battery on your web site.

Followed your straightforward instructions.

Now my computer works again.

Horrible apple company telling me a 2010 machine is too old to fix.

Is that their idea of recycling.

Is that how proud they are of their production, that I should have thrown a perfectly healthy seven year old laptop away.


Jonathan Baines - Contestar

Excellent instructions. Parts arrived this morning and computer now fixed. Well done.

Peter Hart - Contestar

Hello, I had the same problem, I went to apple they told me it could be the power port or the mortarboard is it true? I did the job to take off the battery and it works any idea what can be the problem and how to resolve it permanently,. my battery need to be replace they told me if I change it could be fixed the problem??? or is the motherboard the problem thank you?

Alessandro Galati - Contestar

Very easy!!!! The directions were great!!! Now my computer battery is working :))))) Thank you

Julie Kaus - Contestar

OWC, also a reputable source of Mac stuff, sells a replacement battery and has a video showing how to remove the old one and install the new one ( At the beginning of the video the viewer is warned that the battery will have to be calibrated for best results, that the procedure will be demonstrated at the end of the video, and it should not be skipped. Basically, the procedure involves charging the battery until it is full, completely discharging it, then recharging it. I suspect the calibration might apply to the iFixit replacement battery as well.

Regarding that battery and a report that it doesn't work for OS X 10.11.2: What about later versions? I have 10.11.6.


Richard Liu - Contestar

Awesome tutorial. Thank you so much, it was easy peasy.

ksmail4shopping - Contestar

Muchas gracias por tu ayuda!!!

Almu Diaz - Contestar

is there a recommendation if the battery needs replacement due to swelling? Mine has swelled to the point that the touchpad is no longer sitting properly and will not function. My instincts are to not touch it, but there is a lot of data I need to pull from the machine…

Levi Wickham - Contestar

Went as advertised, thanks. Do you re-cycle the old battery or do I have to find a place to take it?


Paul Green - Contestar

15 minutes start to finish. Could not do this in any of the new (2018) MBPs!

Steve Grossman - Contestar

The battery in my old MBP (2010) was swollen to the point of not being able to use the touchpad. I received my new battery from you today and replaced it. Works wonderfully! I’m sooooo happy I went this route and didn’t pay a local shop $200 for the battery and less than 10 minutes of labor! Thank you!!!

Clarisa Marcee - Contestar

This was incredibly easy and now my MacBook pro is up and running good as new…other than it being slow as Christmas

Marc Byler - Contestar

Again, great write-up and pics. I replaced my battery, added new 16gb RAM (2x8gb) and a new 500gb SSD - all successfully! Many thanks to all of you as well as posters and their stories/situations. Always something to learn!

Mary W - Contestar

After nine years of faithful service suddenly last week my MacBook Pro 13’s battery wouldn’t charge. I strongly considered taking it to an authorized center, but instead after some research on the internet, bit the bullet, crossed my fingers and bought a new battery off of Amazon. Even after it arrived I was still hesitant to undertake the operation myself, but thanks to your fantastic tutorial the removal/install worked without a hitch. Thank you!

William Campbell - Contestar

did change the battery - bought the new on from ifixitI It worked fine for some months- now

it the Mac stoped working- battery doesnt charge. HOwever it has only charged 159 cycles

(out of 1000 -whioch is supposed to be its lifecycle).

I have no idea what to do. Did all thethings I fond in the net: reset SMc, eset PRAM, disconennect and reconnect

NBAttery. NOthing worked. The battery mus still be good according to ifixit specification.

THe Apple testrun brought up the report code : 4xxx/1/4 0000000: # òä”battery”

What can I do ?! The ifixit replacement battery sdhould be still woring…!!!

mathiaspongracz - Contestar

My. Congratulations for your instructions step by step.

Axaopoulos Panagiotis - Contestar

Great Fix! I did this in 2018, my MacBook battery life had dropped to 0, and I had to constantly keep the computer plugged in. Eventually it just shut off and even keeping it plugged in wouldn’t work. Did this change and now have a very functional battery 2+ years later. Source of the battery was iFixit.

Alan Sulpizio - Contestar

Hello together. replaced my battery at my macboob pro 13“ mid 2010, had some same issues: battery is not recognized. Not in coconut battery nor in mac os. Seems like it not there. Pushed power button 5 seconds when battery was replaced, also reseted smc via keyboard. Not working. Battery loads more then six hours. Battery status check button on the left side only works when power cable is attached :/ any ideas or something i can do more?

best regards. Niko

Nikolas Palm - Contestar

Great guide! It was easy to follow!

Mactek - Contestar

Hi there,

I have just followed the instructions to replace the battery after my original had expanded and stopped working.

The new batter is in now as per instructions however when i plug in the charger, only a very faint charging light comes on and the laptop does not switch on.

Any ideas on what to do?

Ishaan Sood - Contestar

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