Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para remover la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro con la ayuda del kit de reemplazo de batería de iFixit. El removedor de adhesivo en tu kit disolverá el adhesivo que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote removerla con facilidad.

El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit es altamente inflamable. Realiza este procedimiento en un área muy bien ventilada. No fumes o trabajes cerca de una flama al descubierto durante este procedimiento.

Para tu seguridad, descarga la batería de tu MacBook Pro antes de comenzar este procedimiento. Una batería cargada de ion de litio puede crear una incendio peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.

Nota: El solvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos, como los recintos de plástico de los altavoces de la MacBook Pro. Ten cuidado al aplicar el solvente.

Si estás utilizando el removedor de adhesivo iFixit de estilo antiguo con una botella y una jeringa (no se vende más), [guía|110631|haz clic aquí para una guía de instrucciones ligeramente modificada].

  1. Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe que sujetan la tapas inferior del  MacBook Pro:
    • Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe que sujetan la tapas inferior del MacBook Pro:

    • Ocho 3.0 mm

    • Dos 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Contestar

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Lionheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Contestar

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Contestar

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Contestar

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Contestar

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Contestar

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Contestar

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Contestar

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Contestar

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Contestar

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Contestar

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Contestar

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Contestar

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Contestar

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Contestar

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Contestar

  2. Levantar desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levante la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro.
    • Levantar desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levante la tapa inferior del MacBook Pro.

    • Dejar la tapa inferior a un lado

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Contestar

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Contestar

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Contestar

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Contestar

  3. Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería
    • Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Contestar

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Contestar

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Contestar

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Contestar

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Contestar

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Contestar

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Contestar

  4. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.
    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Contestar

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Contestar

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Contestar

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Contestar

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Contestar

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Contestar

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Contestar

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Contestar

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Contestar

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Contestar

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Contestar

  5. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los tres cables de antena AirPort directamente de sus enchufes en la placa AirPort.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar los tres cables de antena AirPort directamente de sus enchufes en la placa AirPort.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Contestar

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Contestar

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Contestar

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Contestar

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Contestar

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Contestar

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Contestar

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Contestar

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Contestar

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Contestar

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Contestar

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Contestar

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Contestar

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Contestar

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Contestar

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Contestar

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Contestar

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Contestar

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Contestar

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Contestar

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Contestar

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Contestar

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Contestar

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Contestar

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Contestar

  6. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de empujar en paralelo al tablero, empujando primero en un lado y luego en el otro para "sacar" el conector de su zócalo.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Contestar

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Contestar

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Contestar

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Contestar

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Contestar

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Contestar

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Contestar

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Contestar

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Contestar

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Contestar

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Contestar

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Contestar

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Contestar

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Contestar

  7. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger debajo de la cubierta del disipador de calor de goma en el ventilador derecho Desliza el spudger debajo de la longitud de la cubierta, liberando el adhesivo. Levanta la tapa y voltéala para que puedas acceder a los cables que están debajo.
    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger debajo de la cubierta del disipador de calor de goma en el ventilador derecho

    • Desliza el spudger debajo de la longitud de la cubierta, liberando el adhesivo.

    • Levanta la tapa y voltéala para que puedas acceder a los cables que están debajo.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Contestar

  8. Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador. Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos. Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía . de cables de plástico
    • Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador.

    • Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos.

    • Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía . de cables de plástico

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Contestar

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Contestar

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Contestar

  9. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta el conector de la tarjeta de E / S hacia afuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Al volver a armar, conecta este extremo primero ya que no es flexible. De forma similar, retira el conector de la placa de E / S de su zócalo en la placa de E / S. Retira el cable de la placa de E / S de la MacBook Pro.
    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta el conector de la tarjeta de E / S hacia afuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Al volver a armar, conecta este extremo primero ya que no es flexible.

    • De forma similar, retira el conector de la placa de E / S de su zócalo en la placa de E / S.

    • Retira el cable de la placa de E / S de la MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Contestar

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Contestar

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Contestar

  10. Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2,9 mm que fija la tarjeta AirPort a la placa lógica.
    • Retira el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2,9 mm que fija la tarjeta AirPort a la placa lógica.

  11. Sujeta los lados delgados de la tarjeta AirPort y tira paralelo a la placa lógica, retirando la tarjeta AirPort de la MacBook Pro. Sujeta los lados delgados de la tarjeta AirPort y tira paralelo a la placa lógica, retirando la tarjeta AirPort de la MacBook Pro.
    • Sujeta los lados delgados de la tarjeta AirPort y tira paralelo a la placa lógica, retirando la tarjeta AirPort de la MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Contestar

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Contestar

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Contestar

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Contestar

  12. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zócalo ZIF del cable plano del ventilador derecho. Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zócalo ZIF del cable plano del ventilador derecho.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Comenzando en la parte superior del cable, desliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del cable del ventilador derecho para liberarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado al liberar el cable, ya que está fuertemente adherido a la placa lógica.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Contestar

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Contestar

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Contestar

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Contestar

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Contestar

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Contestar

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Contestar

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Contestar

  13. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho a la placa lógica:
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador derecho a la placa lógica:

    • Uno 4,4 mm tornillo Torx T5

    • Un 3,9 mm tornillo Torx T5 cabeza ancha

    • Uno 5,0 mm T5 tornillo Torx collar con 2 mm

  14. Levanta y quita el ventilador adecuado de la MacBook Pro.
    • Levanta y quita el ventilador adecuado de la MacBook Pro.

    • Cuando vuelvas a instalar el ventilador, es más fácil conectar el cable de cinta de ventilador al dejar caer el ventilador en su lugar, en vez de hacerlo luego de haber instalador los tres tornillos de ventilador.

  15. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la tapa del disipador de calor de goma del ventilador izquierdo.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la tapa del disipador de calor de goma del ventilador izquierdo.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Contestar

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Contestar

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Contestar

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Contestar

  16. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador izquierdo a la placa lógica:
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador izquierdo a la placa lógica:

    • Uno 4,4 mm tornillo Torx T5

    • Uno 5,0 mm T5 tornillo Torx collar con 2 mm.

    • Un 3,9 mm tornillo Torx T5 cabeza ancha

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Contestar

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Contestar

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Contestar

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Contestar

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Contestar

  17. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zif ZIF del cable de cinta del ventilador izquierdo. Asegúrate de estar prestando atención a la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí. Comenzando en la parte superior del cable, desliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del cable del ventilador izquierdo para liberarlo de la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar la aleta de retención del zif ZIF del cable de cinta del ventilador izquierdo.

    • Asegúrate de estar prestando atención a la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Comenzando en la parte superior del cable, desliza una herramienta de apertura de plástico debajo del cable del ventilador izquierdo para liberarlo de la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado al liberar el cable, ya que está fuertemente adherido a la placa lógica. Si es necesario, usa un iOpener o secador de pelo para calentar el cable con el fin de ablandar el adhesivo y hacerlo más fácil de quitar.

    • Levanta el ventilador izquierdo fuera del dispositivo.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Contestar

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Contestar

    be nice, silly

    Richard RUNGE - Contestar

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Contestar

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Contestar

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Contestar

  18. Retira el solo tornillo Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que asegura la SSD a la placa lógica.
    • Retira el solo tornillo Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que asegura la SSD a la placa lógica.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Contestar

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Contestar

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Contestar

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Contestar

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Contestar

  19. Levanta ligeramente el lado derecho de la SSD y deslízalo firmemente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Levanta ligeramente el lado derecho de la SSD y deslízalo firmemente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Levanta ligeramente el lado derecho de la SSD y deslízalo firmemente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  20. ¡Envío gratuito para todos los pedidos de más de USD100 o que contengan un Pro Tech Toolkit!

    Visita Nuestra Tienda
  21. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el bloqueo del cable de datos de la placa de E / S y gíralo hacia el lado de la batería de la computadora. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para deslizar el cable de datos de la placa de E / S directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el bloqueo del cable de datos de la placa de E / S y gíralo hacia el lado de la batería de la computadora.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para deslizar el cable de datos de la placa de E / S directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la placa de E / S, ya que su toma es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Contestar

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

  22. Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que sujetan la placa de E / S a la placa lógica. Levanta con cuidado la placa de E / S y retírala de la carcasa inferior.
    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3,1 mm que sujetan la placa de E / S a la placa lógica.

    • Levanta con cuidado la placa de E / S y retírala de la carcasa inferior.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Contestar

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Contestar

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Contestar

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Contestar

  23. Usa el extremo plan o de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz derecho y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plan o de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz izquierdo y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica.

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de altavoz derecho y sacarlo de su hueco en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la cabeza del cable, y no en el hueco. Si haces palanca en el hueco, se podría separar de la placa lógica.

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - Contestar

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - Contestar

  24. Saca cualquier cinta que cubra el conector  del cable plano del teclado Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado. Asegúrate de estar haciendo palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.
    • Saca cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del teclado

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    • Asegúrate de estar haciendo palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano del teclado.

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer McAuliffe - Contestar

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - Contestar

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - Contestar

  25. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable plano del trackpad desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable plano del trackpad desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  26. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la luz posterior del teclado desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la luz posterior del teclado desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  27. Usa la punta de un spudger o la uña para levantar la aleta de retención en el  zócalo ZIF del cable plano de micrófono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o la uña para levantar la aleta de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano de micrófono.

    • Asegúrate de hacer palanca en la aleta de retención con bisagras, no al zócalo en sí.

    • Saca el cable plano del micrófono de su enchufe.

  28. Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora. Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca en el bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el lado de entrada de CC de la computadora.

    • Saca el cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

  29. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la tapa de rosca de goma de la cabeza del tornillo elevado cerca del conector MagSafe 2.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la tapa de rosca de goma de la cabeza del tornillo elevado cerca del conector MagSafe 2.

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - Contestar

    same thing for me too.

    William Corwin - Contestar

  30. Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior:
    • Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.1 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de plata de 5.5 mm con cabeza elevada

    • Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de plata de 3.8 mm

  31. Levantando desde el lado más cercano a la batería, gira la placa lógica hacia la parte superior de la MacBook Pro. Puede ser que debas deslizar la placa lógica unos pocos milímetros hacia la izquierda para que haya espacio libre para los puertos a lo largo del borde derecho de la placa.
    • Levantando desde el lado más cercano a la batería, gira la placa lógica hacia la parte superior de la MacBook Pro.

    • Puede ser que debas deslizar la placa lógica unos pocos milímetros hacia la izquierda para que haya espacio libre para los puertos a lo largo del borde derecho de la placa.

    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, empuja con cuidado el conector MagSafe 2 fuera de su zócalo en la parte inferior de la placa lógica.

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - Contestar

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Contestar

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - Contestar

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - Contestar

  32. Retira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica de la MacBook Pro. Al volver a instalar la placa madre, verifica que los cables estén visibles y no atrapados bajo la placa madre. En el sentido de las agujas del reloj desde la parte superior: batería, AirPort/cámara, pantalla, micrófono, altavoz izquierdo, teclado y panel táctil.
    • Retira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica de la MacBook Pro.

    • Al volver a instalar la placa madre, verifica que los cables estén visibles y no atrapados bajo la placa madre.

    • En el sentido de las agujas del reloj desde la parte superior: batería, AirPort/cámara, pantalla, micrófono, altavoz izquierdo, teclado y panel táctil.

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - Contestar

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - Contestar

  33. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo a la carcasa superior: Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6,9 ​​mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Levanta el altavoz izquierdo fuera de la caja superior y déjalo a un lado.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Contestar

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Contestar

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Contestar

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

  34. Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho a la carcasa superior: Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm
    • Retira los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho a la carcasa superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5,6 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6,9 ​​mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 2,6 mm

    • Retira el altavoz derecho de la MacBook Pro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Contestar

  35. Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.2 mm que sujetan la placa de la batería.
    • Retira los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.2 mm que sujetan la placa de la batería.

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    lamajr - Contestar

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - Contestar

  36. El removedor de adhesivo líquido provisto en tu kit puede afectar el recubrimiento antirreflectante en la pantalla de su MacBook Pro.
    • El removedor de adhesivo líquido provisto en tu kit puede afectar el recubrimiento antirreflectante en la pantalla de su MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de papel de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjala allí mientras trabajas.

  37. Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y sosténlo ligeramente, usando un bloque de espuma o un libro resistente. En los siguientes pasos, aplicarás un removedor de adhesivo líquido en el borde derecho (exterior) de la batería. Mantener este lado de la MacBook Pro elevado ayudará a que el removedor de adhesivo fluya por debajo de la batería.
    • Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y sosténlo ligeramente, usando un bloque de espuma o un libro resistente.

    • En los siguientes pasos, aplicarás un removedor de adhesivo líquido en el borde derecho (exterior) de la batería. Mantener este lado de la MacBook Pro elevado ayudará a que el removedor de adhesivo fluya por debajo de la batería.

  38. Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está completamente preparada, es hora de prepararse. El removedor de adhesivo iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve para la piel y los ojos.
    • Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está completamente preparada, es hora de prepararse.

    • El removedor de adhesivo iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve para la piel y los ojos.

    • Usa protección para los ojos cuando maneje y aplique el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección ocular está incluida en su kit).

    • No uses lentes de contacto sin protección para los ojos.

    • Los guantes protectores también están incluidos en tu kit. Si te preocupa una posible irritación de la piel, ponte los guantes ahora.

  39. Abre tu contenedor de removedor de adhesivo. Llena la jeringa incluida en su kit con una pequeña cantidad (aproximadamente 1-2 mililitros) de removedor de adhesivo Esto abre la botella y permite que la presión se equilibre antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si omites este paso, el removedor de adhesivo podría salir disparado de manera inesperada cuando cortas la punta.
    • Abre tu contenedor de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Llena la jeringa incluida en su kit con una pequeña cantidad (aproximadamente 1-2 mililitros) de removedor de adhesivo

    • Esto abre la botella y permite que la presión se equilibre antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si omites este paso, el removedor de adhesivo podría salir disparado de manera inesperada cuando cortas la punta.

    • Usa tijeras para cortar la punta sellada del aplicador.

    • Cortar en la parte de la punta que está más angosta te dará mejor control para que puedas aplicar el removedor de adhesivo en pequeñas cantidades.

    • Tuerce y cierra la tapa de la botella de forma segura antes de proceder.

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - Contestar

  40. Aplica unas pequeñas gotas de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la celda externa derecha de la batería. No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más de la mitad de la cantidad de solvente necesario para remover las celdas de la batería.
    • Aplica unas pequeñas gotas de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la celda externa derecha de la batería.

    • No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más de la mitad de la cantidad de solvente necesario para remover las celdas de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre debajo de la celda de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

  41. Deslizae una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde exterior de la celda de la batería. Puedes' ayudar girar suavemente la tarjeta para abrir un pequeño espacio entre la celda de la batería y la funda del MacBook Pro. Desliza la tarjeta más adentro por debajo de la celda de la batería para separarla del adhesivo que la sujeta a la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro.
    • Deslizae una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde exterior de la celda de la batería.

    • Puedes' ayudar girar suavemente la tarjeta para abrir un pequeño espacio entre la celda de la batería y la funda del MacBook Pro.

    • Desliza la tarjeta más adentro por debajo de la celda de la batería para separarla del adhesivo que la sujeta a la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro.

  42. Levanta la celda de la batería para separarla de la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro, pero no intentes quitarla. Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería para evitar que vuelva a adherirse a medida que avanza al siguiente paso.
    • Levanta la celda de la batería para separarla de la carcasa superior del MacBook Pro, pero no intentes quitarla.

    • Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería para evitar que vuelva a adherirse a medida que avanza al siguiente paso.

  43. Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo  de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la siguiente celda de la batería. Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre debajo de la celda de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.
    • Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo de manera uniforme a lo largo del borde elevado de la siguiente celda de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre debajo de la celda de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.

  44. Desliza una esquina de tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de la segunda celda de la batería. Empuja la tarjeta debajo de la segunda celda de la batería y deslízala de lado a lado para separar el adhesivo debajo. Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de ambas celdas de la batería (o dala vuelta) para evitar que vuelvan a adherirse a medida que avanzas al siguiente paso.
    • Desliza una esquina de tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de la segunda celda de la batería.

    • Empuja la tarjeta debajo de la segunda celda de la batería y deslízala de lado a lado para separar el adhesivo debajo.

    • Deja la tarjeta de plástico debajo de ambas celdas de la batería (o dala vuelta) para evitar que vuelvan a adherirse a medida que avanzas al siguiente paso.

  45. Es hora de cambiar de lado. Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma y colócala debajo del lado opuesto de tu MacBook Pro. Repite el procedimiento de los pasos anteriores para separar las dos celdas de la batería en este lado: Aplica tu removedor de adhesivo al borde elevado de la celda de la batería externa, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre
    • Es hora de cambiar de lado. Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma y colócala debajo del lado opuesto de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Repite el procedimiento de los pasos anteriores para separar las dos celdas de la batería en este lado:

    • Aplica tu removedor de adhesivo al borde elevado de la celda de la batería externa, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre

    • Trabaja una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería, y desliza la tarjeta completamente debajo de la celda de la batería para separarla.

    • Haz lo mismo con la celda adyacente.

    • Deja la tarjeta de plástico en su lugar o voltea las celdas de la batería para evitar que vuelvan a adherirse durante los siguientes pasos.

  46. Con el borde izquierdo de tu MacBook Pro aún apuntalado, aplica unas pequeñas gotas de removedor de adhesivo por la línea central entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería. Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.
    • Con el borde izquierdo de tu MacBook Pro aún apuntalado, aplica unas pequeñas gotas de removedor de adhesivo por la línea central entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.

  47. Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico entre las dos celdas centrales, y debajo del borde elevado de la celda de batería de centro derecha. Desliza la tarjeta más adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar. No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.
    • Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico entre las dos celdas centrales, y debajo del borde elevado de la celda de batería de centro derecha.

    • Desliza la tarjeta más adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.

    • No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.

  48. Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central. Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central. Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central.
    • Voltea las dos celdas de batería derecha desadheridas sobre el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro, si no lo has hecho aún. Esto permitirá el acceso al borde exterior de la celda central.

  49. Empuja una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo del marco de plástico de la batería y debajo del borde adherido restante de la celda central inferior. No hagas palanca a lo largo del borde más cercano al conector de la batería, o corres el riesgo de dañar el cable plano del teclado.
    • Empuja una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo del marco de plástico de la batería y debajo del borde adherido restante de la celda central inferior.

    • No hagas palanca a lo largo del borde más cercano al conector de la batería, o corres el riesgo de dañar el cable plano del teclado.

    • Desliza tu tarjeta por completo debajo de la celda de la batería y déjala para evitar que la celda de batería se vuelva a adherir.

  50. Retira la primera tarjeta de plástico que insertó debajo de la celda de la batería de centro derecha. Retira la primera tarjeta de plástico que insertó debajo de la celda de la batería de centro derecha.
    • Retira la primera tarjeta de plástico que insertó debajo de la celda de la batería de centro derecha.

  51. Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma. Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y apóyalo una vez más.
    • Retira tu libro o bloque de espuma.

    • Con el borde frontal de la MacBook Pro hacia ti, levanta el lado derecho y apóyalo una vez más.

  52. Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería, de modo que fluya por debajo de la celda restante de la batería. Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.
    • Aplica unas pocas gotas de removedor de adhesivo entre las dos celdas centrales de la batería, de modo que fluya por debajo de la celda restante de la batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre antes de continuar.

  53. Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde elevado de la celda final de la batería. Empuja la tarjeta más hacia adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar. No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.
    • Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta plástica debajo del borde elevado de la celda final de la batería.

    • Empuja la tarjeta más hacia adentro debajo de la celda de la batería para cortar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.

    • No intentes separar por completo esta batería todavía. Deja tu tarjeta de plástico en su lugar para evitar que vuelva a adherirse.

  54. Repita el proceso que utilizaste en la celda de la batería de centro derecha para terminar de separar el adhesivo en la celda de centro izquierda:
    • Repita el proceso que utilizaste en la celda de la batería de centro derecha para terminar de separar el adhesivo en la celda de centro izquierda:

    • Levanta y voltea las dos celdas de la batería externa para liberar el acceso al borde adherido restante de la celda de la batería de centro izquierda.

    • Desliza tu tarjeta por completo debajo de la celda de la batería y déjala para evitar que la celda de batería se vuelva a adherir.

    • Retira la primera tarjeta que insertaste debajo de esta celda de batería en el paso anterior.

  55. Con una tarjeta de plástico debajo de cada una de las dos celdas centrales de la batería, gira y levanta ambas tarjetas para separar completamente las celdas de la batería, junto con el marco de plástico y la placa de la batería, de la MacBook Pro. Con una tarjeta de plástico debajo de cada una de las dos celdas centrales de la batería, gira y levanta ambas tarjetas para separar completamente las celdas de la batería, junto con el marco de plástico y la placa de la batería, de la MacBook Pro.
    • Con una tarjeta de plástico debajo de cada una de las dos celdas centrales de la batería, gira y levanta ambas tarjetas para separar completamente las celdas de la batería, junto con el marco de plástico y la placa de la batería, de la MacBook Pro.

  56. Levanta y quita la batería. Antes de instalar tu batería nueva, quita todo el adhesivo viejo de la funda del MacBook Pro.
    • Levanta y quita la batería.

    • Antes de instalar tu batería nueva, quita todo el adhesivo viejo de la funda del MacBook Pro.

    • Con un poco de suerte, puedes sacar lentamente cada tira de adhesivo con los dedos.

    • De lo contrario, remoja cada tira de adhesivo con un poco de removedor de adhesivo durante 2-3 minutos, y luego raspa con una herramienta de plástico. Esto puede tomar bastante trabajo, así que sé paciente.

    • Limpia cualquier removedor de adhesivo restante y dale a tu MacBook Pro unos minutos para que se seque al aire.

    • La batería de repuesto incluida en tu kit iFixit viene con adhesivo preinstalado. Prueba el ajuste y la alineación de la batería con cuidado antes de despegar la película que cubre el adhesivo, y luego presione cada celda firmemente en su lugar. Si hay películas / revestimientos adicionales que no estaban en su batería original, quítalos ahora.

    • Cárgala hasta el 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si observas algún comportamiento inusual o problemas después de instalar tu batería nueva, es posible que tengas que restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Jeff Suovanen

Miembro Desde 06/08/13

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This looks amazingly complicated!!! I've seen Youtube videos just removing the battery with solvent, and being careful. Why removing everything beforehand?

anonymous 3232 - Contestar

There's nothing physically stopping you from going straight for the battery. However, it's difficult to control where the solvent goes with 100% accuracy, so if you're at all concerned about your solvent affecting other components, it's safer to remove them first. We've tested a lot of solvents and found that some are much safer to spread around, but not very effective at separating the battery. So yes, depending on the solvent used and the exact model of your MacBook Pro, the procedure could be very different!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Jeff, thanks for the explanation, very helpful. In the meantime, I have realised you don't ship out of the US... pity!

anonymous 3232 - Contestar

Thanks so much for that link! And thanks to the guy who came up with it. I think I found a much faster way to go than thick nylon.

I couldn't find a nylon cord big enough. But I realized (being a guy from jersey) that it looked like something I'd seen happen in so many 80's mob films to someone who had to be taken care of. So i looked around for a thin metal wire and found it on my guitar! Wrap each end around a nail or something so you can hold it tight. And the metal wire really effectively cuts through the glue. The thin diameter makes it easier.

Didn't have to take out a single component.

Seth Piezas -

your link in combination with dental floss is great, fast and safe

hanneskvh -

Hey! My Macbook has started to swell in the center, near the spacebar! I'll try to replace the battery asap. I play the guitar so I'll use the guitar string as recommended. Which one did you use? This high E? And can I use the guide shown in this link with the guitar string? Thanks!

Carlos Castro Neves -

Or if you have an Apple Store nearby, they'll do the work for $129 which is worth the risk IMO. https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/ser...

Phatcat - Contestar

It's actually $199 for Retina MacBook Pros, but yes you're right and that's certainly an option if you're close to an Apple Store—at least until the 5-year mark when Apple stops servicing them (which on the 2013 models will be as soon as next year).

Jeff Suovanen -

Also they take your computer for several days. You can do this repair in a few hours. (or shorter if you use the string method along with solvent, as mentioned above)

tod -

I did a modified version of this to replace my battery: Steps 1-4, then Steps 34-. I didn't feel comfortable removing the logic board.

I controlled the flow of the solvent by tilting the computer by the hinge so any excess solvent would flow towards the front of the computer.

After being very sparing with the solvent and letting it sit for several minutes, I used the string method mentioned above. I think without the solvent, using the string would be very difficult, but with the solvent, the adhesive became gummy and easy to pull through.

tod - Contestar

I just did this replacement but used solvent + string. Seems to work great. Solvent weakens the adhesive, string breaks it.

A small writeup here: https://todbot.com/blog/2017/07/08/repla...

tod - Contestar

Thanks for the link to your method - just followed your procedure and it worked great! Entire process probably took about 45 minutes total and that was taking my time.

Mark Weishaar -

I used the solvent + string method and it worked great. For the string, I used dental floss. It is very thin and very strong and easily cuts through the weakened glue.

Jeffr -

Hey guys, i changed my battery following the guide and using the ifix it kit, i did a full SMC and PRAM reset but for some strange reason completely randomly the computer will crash make the screen completely black and after a while it’ll shutdown by itself, i just reset it and it works fine but i’d love some advice on the matter

aerorth - Contestar

I just pulled the battery out. I didn't disassemble the entire computer. I also did not use the adhesive remover. Scrape scrape scrape.

christianm - Contestar

Sucess! Thanks ifixit.com, Like some, I skipped steps 5 to 33…

Alexander Javier - Contestar

I brought the MBP to the genius bar in town to run their diagnostic tool before I ordered the Ifixit battery replacement kit, if only to see what else was wrong besides an old battery. I was suspecting the DC onboard chip was damaged as well. We got two errors, one for the battery and one for a temperature sensor (which could have been battery related said the genius) DC onboard chip wasn’t damaged as I thought. Could it be that the new battery that was shipped was faulty, or did I destroy the socket or a solder when I pried off the battery plug with the spudger as was instructed but not demonstrated (did i use a vital component as a leverage point?)

What gives? Can I clean the socket with an electronic contact cleaner- the spray kind, or will that damage other components?

Help

Paul Ranada - Contestar

THIS WHOLE GUIDE IS TOO LONG AND FOR COWARDS. You can easily make it faster. Just do it as in guide until you finish step 4. Then open your laptop and put it on the table this way that keyboard will face the table and screen will be hanging from the table (similar way how they put chairs on tables in restaurants to clean floor). Put some cloths or paper between keyboard and table, make roll from paper and put it also between table and keyboard near table’s edge. This will lift laptop a little bit and allow adhesive remover to flow down to the paper/cloths. Put some remover under the batteries (I bought nail’s remover with acetone), wait a while and remove batteries. Clean the rest of remover from the bottom of laptop and you are ready to put new batteries. It is easy and can be done in 20-40 minutes.

paczor - Contestar

I agree with the other commenters here. EVERY STEP AFTER 4 IS COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY. I think you risk doing more damage to your computer trying to remove the logic board and components than just muscling the battery out. If your battery is swollen like mine was, the battery will mostly have separated from the adhesive already due to expansion. I was able to pull out my battery with no adhesive remover whatsoever. If you do run into some adhesive that you can’t just pry off, just use a scraper or floss to remove it.

email - Contestar

Hi; I just installed my new battery and followed your instructions to the letter… not a bad experience, and works like a dream. And, while I was in there I swapped my 500 Gb SSD with a new OWC 1 Tb. It’s like having a new computer. Thanks!

Marc Jacobs - Contestar

Succeeded! I left out steps 5 to 33 to avoid too many possible faults removing and reassembling all the parts. To avoid floating of the solvent in a wrong direction, I shifted the computer on the upper side, so that the solvent would float under the battery to the edge, not to the sensible parts.

Now the bottom part is flat again, and the trackpad klicks smooth… The whole computer is like new again and looks like new as well. :-) (and it’s 4,5 years old)

Hartmut - Contestar

Unlike many others that commented, I did go through with the whole replacement as stated, and it worked without issue. I followed every step closely, and had no issues when I turned the machine back on. Now that I’ve done it, I don’t see any reason you couldn’t do the thread or dental floss method - seems safe to me.

I made a time lapse of the process. Thanks for the great (and very detailed) guide!

Jeff Ballweg - Contestar

I love your video! Great work. That battery looked pretty swollen o.O

Jeff Suovanen -

Success! Did not use the solvent, but fishing line and a plastic knife. The guitar pic in the replacement kit was just a bit too short. ;) I appreciate the work everyone has done in writing up hints and tips. The guide’s instructions and images are tops! I approached this job with a bit of fear but saw how nearly everyone was successful. Now, my 2013 model MacBook Pro has long battery life again.

Larry_Rymal - Contestar

Just a marvelous follow-up. The computer would power-off at 10% battery remaining. I did the usual resets, etc., but it still would power-off. I decided to go ahead and charge the battery to 100% and let it drain (power adapter unplugged). This time it drained all the way to 0% (wow!) and faded to dark. Nice and eloquently.

Secondly, Facebook, with the old dying battery, would not scroll smoothly as graphics/pictures were loading. I’m assuming the MacBook Pro was throttling back since the battery was on its death bed. Now, with the new battery, this computer is so amazingly fast! FB scrolling is whoooshhh fast on supplying the graphics.

I just hope that Apple will give OS upgrade support for just a couple more years, albeit being nearly a five year old machine. It is speedy, and has all the ports I need (other than having ThunderBolt 2 rather ThunderBolt 3).

Thank you iFixit!

Larry_Rymal - Contestar

I just replaced my battery with the ifixit kit, but like some people I skipped all the steps regarding removing components.

I protected the screen with foil, tilted the laptop so excess acetone would go away from the logic board, and proceeded to remove the battery.

i used very small amounts of fluid, and worked them off with plastic cards. They came off pretty easily; I spent more time removing the excess black glue strips.

This is NOT difficult. Just go slow.

jacob - Contestar

iFixit’s Kit doesn’t ship to NZ so my method of attack was the following:

* Custom blend of about 80% Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) + 20% water in a dish.

* The disposable eye drops you can buy, emptied one of the little plastic suckers / droppers and used that to pick-up the custom blend above and apply it.

* I tried some picture hanging wire, was OK. Then Dental Floss, was not great. Finally settled on cutting a metre of an old ethernet cable and using a twisted pair from that. Worked much better, decent sawing motion and as the plastic wears down you get better sawing from the wire inside. No battery damage at all…

* Plus some old credit cards

Took 2 batteries out of dead Macbook Pro’s and swapped them over with great success.

As above you don’t need to remove all the other components…

Matt

Matt Hall - Contestar

Should have skipped to the comments first before I started; advising to skip certain steps. lol…but, alas I went through with it all and I’m glad I did. It allowed me to carefully clean the inside of the laptop. I even opened up the fans and got all the dust out, too. I will say I’m rather good with this kind of stuff so I wasn’t too worried as I progressed to basically teardown the laptop. Thanks to ifixit and the author for this. First timer on here and grateful for the community. Cheers!

James Castro - Contestar

Another successful repair here. As with most other commenters, I skipped steps 5-33 and had zero issues by virtue of tilting the laptop so the solvent wouldn’t contact the other parts inside. It actually took longer to clean up the leftover old adhesive strips than to remove the old battery itself. As a bonus, my trackpad, which had started behaving erratically about 6-8 months ago, is working perfectly again, likely due to the badly swollen condition of the old cells, enough to visibly bow the keyboard upward. No issues following replacement, the recommended two full discharge/charge cycles and a couple of days’ usage. I am very grateful for the work that went into the replacement kit and this guide. Thanks!

Anderson Vitous - Contestar

Just replaced the whole unibody, I had a broken trackpad as well as a 50% health battery. Found a good used one and used this tutorial and the tutorial on the display replacement. Had the whole computer taken down to components, couldn’t have done it with out the tutorial. Thanks!

Elijah Vivio - Contestar

This is an easy repair with iFixit’s kit and especially if you do a little bit of research first. I did what a lot of people here have mentioned, using a combination of the adhesive remover and a string to sort of “tear” the glue. Here are the steps I took:

1) I put some foil in the closed laptop to protect the screen, then put the laptop on a tilted stand.

2) I then put the adhesive remover around each of the batteries, carefully avoiding components I didn’t remove.

3) Once the adhesive remover had set in a little, I used fishing line to pull under the cells and tear the weakened adhesive.

4) I Removed and replaced the battery once all the cells were separated from the computer.

Here’s a video of the process that I used to replace mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

However I had calibrated the new battery and reset the PRAM and SMC and it would still shut off with 35% left, meaning that the new battery was defective, but iFixit quickly shipped a new one to me for free that works perfectly.

Andrew Dennistoun - Contestar

Two notes on this excellent guide here:

1. Having completed the whole operation the second time around I’d straight go for the battery without removing the logic board.

2. The iFixit replacement battery didn’t completely fit in the center (I couldn’t screw it down without bending the battery connector). The connector part is a differently constructed than the original one, so beware if that’s the case for you as well.

Bruno Essmann - Contestar

I replaced the battery successfully but after turning the unit back on, I can’t use my normal password to get in, the enter key and the delete key don’t work. What could I have screwed up?

Charles Shader - Contestar

The keyboard ribbon cable is one of the trickiest to reconnect correctly. I’d start by pulling it back out and inspecting it carefully for damage. Make sure it’s clean and free of skin oils—you can clean the contacts carefully with a bit of >90% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free swab or cloth. When it’s dry, reinsert it carefully and evenly, and make sure it’s fully seated. If that doesn’t help, it’s possible the cable is damaged. Or, if you got too much adhesive remover in the wrong place, there could be damage to the keyboard. Start with the simple things first and work your way down. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I finished this today, skipped the steps to remove the electronics, and am happy to report that the speaker enclosures withstood a few splashes of solvent and did not melt like they’d been hit with the acid from ALIEN. It’s worth noting that the two central batteries have 3 strips of adhesive each, all of equal size oriented front to back in the case, the two sets of batteries on the sides had adhesive in a more rectangular pattern with two small and two large strips each. I would consider adding that to the instructions because so much of the disassembly was guessing where to ‘carve’ with the plastic separators. Also, a good trick for this was adding additional solvent while the plastic separators were already partially inserted, allowing it to run down the tool directly into the remaining adhesive. Last thought is that this was such a delicate and time consuming procedure, I would have been glad to just pay the extra money for apple to do it if they wouldn’t have needed to take my laptop for 3-5 days.

John Stevens - Contestar

I used the string method on mine. My batteries were so swollen that the screws ejected from the case as I removed them - ended up having to press down on the case so they wouldn’t strip the starting threads. Just waiting for it to discharge to ensure the battery is good. I was a bit concerned the string method could build up static electricity, but so far things are working fine…

simplymail - Contestar

I could easily have skipped the full teardown, but I decided to do so for the extra room to manipulate the batteries. I didn’t use the adhesive remover, just shoved the cards under the batteries and worked them free. Isopropyl 91% to clean up the residue. Some makeup remover pads were useful as well to let sit on the remaining residue to help saturate them before scrubbing clean. Re-assembly took about 1 hour carefully. Removed a lot of dust along the way. :-) Now the machine is in tip-top shape. Thanks for the guide! Even though it’s a little ambitious just to get the speakers out of the way, you did outline the worst case scenario and give adequate direction along the way to prevent anyone from getting lost.

As said by others, you would probably be fine to skip the teardown steps and just go for a battery removal with the logic board in place.

hybrid - Contestar

I have successfully remove last battery it was swollen, most of the strips already left the case due pressure build up by swelling, but my machine is keep restrating at 17% battery, i tried resetting smc and pram but same situation is same.

Muhammad Asif - Contestar

Easy half hour fix when skipping the electronics removal, Adhesive was easy solved by the solvant liquid

but noticed something interesting, APPLE had forgotten to put in the 2 screws holding the battery electronics connector in place

but I guess the Adhesive will keep it in place as the old one did for a few years.

Old battery very swollen but after replacing finally clicking the trackpad started to work again.

Only thing disappointing thing was they I got a plastic screwdriver shaft, was looking forward to get that shiny metal thing on all the pictures.

sayyonara - Contestar

I just finished all the steps — worked like a charm! While I had it all the way open, I replaced the keyboard and backlight as well (it had taken a bath in soda and after limping along for a few months a few keys finally gave out entirely…). Not exactly a trivial addition to the process (took about an additional hour and a half maybe?) but I really appreciate having had the instructions for taking out all the other parts.

John Murphy - Contestar

Thank you for the tip! I used the e-string of my Western guitar and did cut the tape in less than 10 minutes without any liquid and without taking at the Macbooks compontents. My daugher held the MB case firmly so I could make long strokes to cut the tape. Perfect!

Jan van der Meij - Contestar

Hi, i bought ifixit MacBook Pro replacement battery and i have done the installation successfully but now the battery is not charging at all. The computer tells me that the battery must be replaced. Also when i go to the system preference to check battery information it tells me that the battery has 0 amperes.

Please help me! Thank you!

mjma1982 - Contestar

Just made it, using the “string”-method as shown in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55....

Took about 50 minutes, most of the time for removing the adhesive residue.

Used a string that was thinner than the one in the youtube-video - and my winter leather gloves to not strangulate fingers ;-)

Works!

anonymousguest - Contestar

Just finished the repair using the fishing line method with no acetone. No need to remove anything except the battery. New battery was a simple install and as a bonus my trackpad works again! The swollen old batteries were pushing against the bottom of the trackpad preventing me from fully clicking on the pad. Thank you iFixIt!

Michael Rojas - Contestar

Hi everybody, I absolved every step succesfull. Now everything is working but the battery. Has anyone an idea what to do. When I pull magsafe out of my mac he is immedeatly off.

Karsten - Contestar

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