Saltar al contenido principal

Introducción

Quita el conjunto del panel frontal de un iPad Air 2 para acceder a cualquier componente interno y repararlo o reemplazarlo.

Ten mucho cuidado al separar una batería con un bloqueador de batería. Los contactos de la batería se dañan fácilmente, pudiendo resultar en daños irreversibles en las conexiones de la batería con la placa base. Si quieres terminar la guía sin separar la batería, evita usar herramientas de metal a menos que sea estrictamente necesario (como al quitar tornillos), para impedir que haya cortocircuitos en la batería y que se dañen circuitos sensibles.

  1. Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado a el iOpener. Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado a el iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Contestar

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Contestar

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Contestar

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Contestar

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Contestar

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

  2. Calienta el  iOpener durante treinta segundos.
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa.

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Contestar

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Contestar

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Contestar

  3. Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Contestar

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Contestar

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Contestar

  4. Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo. Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente un iOpener.
    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente un iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

  5. Si el vidrio de tu pantalla está roto, mantén las roturas contenidas y evita cortes en tu cuerpo encintando el vidrio. Aplica capas de cinta de embalar una sobre otra sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta que la cara esté completamente cubierta. Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proveerá integridad estructural cuando estés despegando y levantando la pantalla.
    • Si el vidrio de tu pantalla está roto, mantén las roturas contenidas y evita cortes en tu cuerpo encintando el vidrio.

    • Aplica capas de cinta de embalar una sobre otra sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta que la cara esté completamente cubierta.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proveerá integridad estructural cuando estés despegando y levantando la pantalla.

    • Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, cuando el vidrio está roto, seguirá rompiéndose mientras trabajas, y probablemente necesitarás una herramienta de apertura metálica para sacar el vidrio.

    • Ponte lentes de seguridad para proteger tus ojos, y ten cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - Contestar

    Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~

    stephenwithph - Contestar

    The picture is a picture of an ipad 4 lol

    iCare Electronic Repair - Contestar

    The opening procedure is the same on many iPad models, so some photos are reused for all models.

    Daniele Carminati -

  6. Los siguientes pasos incluyen el uso de un iOpener para aflojar el adhesivo que mantiene el conjunto del panel frontal en su lugar. Cuando uses el iOpener, asegúrate de calentarlo en el microondas por no más de 30 segundos.
    • Los siguientes pasos incluyen el uso de un iOpener para aflojar el adhesivo que mantiene el conjunto del panel frontal en su lugar. Cuando uses el iOpener, asegúrate de calentarlo en el microondas por no más de 30 segundos.

    • Llevándolo por las pestañas en cada extremo, coloca un iOpener caliente sobre el borde superior del iPad.

    • Deja el iOpener sobre el iPad por dos minutos para aflojar el adhesivo que asegura el panel frontal al resto del iPad.

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - Contestar

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

    I would recommend using a hair dryer on high instead. Heat a certain area 60 seconds at a time and keep the hair dyer moving at a slow but constant speed.

    Alexander Chrisman - Contestar

    Hi!

    Is the quality of the iOpener so different, that for some people this guide works. but for most people including me, this 30 sec do not hotten the iOpener enough..

    Couldn't anybody do a new guideline with proper info, how many sec on which watt, etc. Pretty please!

    BUT, with that said, I would like thank You people on ifixit.com, for make all this tools. I f. love it! But plz make a new guide for at least iPad Air 2, screen replacement!

    Big love from Sweden and me Magni =) <3

    Magnifika Mole - Contestar

    Hello Magni!

    Microwave power can be vary, so you may need to microwave your iOpener longer in order to get it hot enough. The iOpener should be hot to the touch, about 80-100°C.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do these instructions say to heat the top of the iPad for 2 minutes, but then prior open the bottom? The instruction below seem to indicate heating the side that you are about to pry open.

    mpulliam - Contestar

    I saw in some “How To”videos, the repair shop had expensive heating pads to assist in screen removal. If I ever find myself making a similar repair to an iPad of iPhone, I’m going to try using a heating pad I have for my back. Set it to high and let the iPad/iPhone set on it screen down for 15 minutes or so. Should do the trick.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

    결국 히팅건을 사용했습니다. Bosch GHG 500-2 패드 알루미늄이 뜨거워질 때까지 가볍게 가열하십시오. 손가락으로 만지면 견딜 수 없을 정도로 뜨거워질 때까지 천천히 가열했습니다. iopener는 시간이 많이 걸리고 성공하지 못했습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Contestar

  7. Mientras que el iPad parece uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo de ciertas porciones del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y levanta en las áreas descritas en cada paso. Mientras sigues las instrucciones, mantén un cuidado especial para evitar abrir en las siguientes áreas: Botón de inicio
    • Mientras que el iPad parece uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo de ciertas porciones del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y levanta en las áreas descritas en cada paso.

    • Mientras sigues las instrucciones, mantén un cuidado especial para evitar abrir en las siguientes áreas:

    • Botón de inicio

    • Cámara frontal

    • Cámara principal

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - Contestar

    I accidentally cut the volume cable as when I tried to gently pry that corner area with the iFixit triangular plastic openers, one needed to be pushed quite hard to open the screen and slipped, the cable was stuck to both the screen digitiser glue and the case, so when I pried the screen off, the cable tore. iPad still works but annoying the glue is so strong.

    Mork Olimorph - Contestar

  8. Coloca una ventosa sobre la cámara frontal del iPad y presiona hacia abajo para crear un vacío. Para obtener el mayor rendimiento, coloca la ventosa lo más cerca posible del borde sin pasarse del borde de la pantalla.
    • Coloca una ventosa sobre la cámara frontal del iPad y presiona hacia abajo para crear un vacío.

    • Para obtener el mayor rendimiento, coloca la ventosa lo más cerca posible del borde sin pasarse del borde de la pantalla.

    This is the trickiest and scariest part of the procedure. (read all of the comments in Steps 1 and 2 and at the end of the guide). The iOpener also did not work for me - it simply would not soften the glue enough. I used a blowdryer. Have lots of patience and be gentle! I did not pull up on the suction cup very much. I softened the glue enough that I could get my fingernail under the glass, then I was able to wedge the pick in beside it. The rest of the screen removal went easy with the blowdryer and blue picks.

    Nancy Hansen - Contestar

    It helps to know that the adhesive is v narrow (2-3 mm) tapes, not great globs of bitumen. Once the seal is broken, you’ve won. Also, the shiny bezel is part of the metal body, not the screen, so get your widget between the glass and the bezel. And be patient. Even with a heat gun and IR thermometer it still took me 30 mins to get the screen off.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    The screen glass can only be pulled up a fraction of a millimetre, just enough to insert the mere tip of an opening pick.

    The glue then gives way very slowly. Give it time to release before moving the pick slowly further in. If you pull the pick out without wedging the gap open with another pick the glue will re bind and you are back where you started.

    I used a very cheap Aldi laser thermometer to check temperatures. The glue seems to loosen at 41C+, although the heat takes time to penetrate.

    David Kennedy - Contestar

    When I purchased a new replacement battery, it came with a suction cup. That cheap cup wasn’t able to hold on the screen. luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups when I made a repair on my iMac. I recommend investing in the heavy duty cups.

    Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)

    These provide an excellent vacuum seal and leverage to lift the screen. Be careful and make sure you soften up the adhesive or you will crack the screen.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

  9. Levanta firmemente la ventosa para crear una pequeña brecha entre el panel frontal y la carcasa posterior. No tires muy fuerte o podrías romper el vidrio. Cuando hayas abierto una brecha suficiente, inserta una púa de apertura dentro de la brecha para prevenir que el adhesivo vuelva a sellarse.
    • Levanta firmemente la ventosa para crear una pequeña brecha entre el panel frontal y la carcasa posterior.

    • No tires muy fuerte o podrías romper el vidrio.

    • Cuando hayas abierto una brecha suficiente, inserta una púa de apertura dentro de la brecha para prevenir que el adhesivo vuelva a sellarse.

    Even using a heat gun in an effort to soften the remarkably tenacious adhesive, I found it impossible to use the suction cup to lift the edge of the screen sufficiently high to insert a pick. I ended up using an exacto knife and a single-edge razor blade to make the initial opening, after which I was able to insert and use picks per the instructions.

    James Steffy - Contestar

  10. Desliza la púa a lo largo del borde de la pantalla, en sentido hacia el jack de auriculares. Si aún hay una resistencia considerable cuando deslizas la púa de apertura, repite el proceso de calentado del iOpener y aplica calor adicional. Ten cuidado de no deslizar la púa de apertura entre el LCD y el panel frontal, hacerlo puede dañar permanentemente la pantalla.
    • Desliza la púa a lo largo del borde de la pantalla, en sentido hacia el jack de auriculares.

    • Si aún hay una resistencia considerable cuando deslizas la púa de apertura, repite el proceso de calentado del iOpener y aplica calor adicional.

    • Ten cuidado de no deslizar la púa de apertura entre el LCD y el panel frontal, hacerlo puede dañar permanentemente la pantalla.

    • Una buena regla general es no insertar la púa de apertura más de un cuarto de pulgada (6 mm) dentro del iPad.

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - Contestar

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - Contestar

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

    Metric is for engineers. Last place on earth to use inches is US car industry. NASA uses metric. You know it makes sense.

    Peter Goodall - Contestar

    I shattered the glass on my iPad during this step.

    To melt the adhesive, you have to heat the glass A LOT, to at least 80°C. I was using a portable infrared thermometer while doing this. Heating the iOpener in my microwave for 60 seconds only raised its temperature to about 90°C, and leaving it on the glass for a few minutes didn’t raise the temperature of the glass to more than about 40°C. I switched to a hair dryer and heated the glass to about 70°C, which was barely enough to be able to insert one pick. As soon as I tried to slide it across, the glass broke.

    I recommend having a reliable way to measure the temperature, and finding something that can heat more effectively than the iOpener. Also take caution to heat all along the top, not just the point where you’re inserting the pick. In theory the iOpener is designed for this, but it doesn’t get hot enough.

    I wish the iOpener came with a specific heat rating. It has many warnings against overheating it but it’s not clear exactly how much is too much.

    Daniel Corks - Contestar

    6mm is far too much at the side. There is only 4mm from edge of glass to the display unit . I guess I damages my display because the pledge had gone between glass and display.

    tobiasscholand - Contestar

    The picks should have a 5mm indent on them so you can’t push them in to far, at least on one of the tips

    mpulliam - Contestar

    warning! The gap just below the home button is 2mm. Be very careful. It is the thinnest space!

    jinwoo KIM - Contestar

  11. Inserta una segunda púa de apertura por la cámara frontal. Inserta una segunda púa de apertura por la cámara frontal.
    • Inserta una segunda púa de apertura por la cámara frontal.

  12. Desliza la segunda púa a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, en sentido al Botón de Reposo/Activación. Desliza la segunda púa a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, en sentido al Botón de Reposo/Activación. Desliza la segunda púa a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, en sentido al Botón de Reposo/Activación.
    • Desliza la segunda púa a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, en sentido al Botón de Reposo/Activación.

  13. Inserta una tercera púa por la cámara frontal. Inserta una tercera púa por la cámara frontal.
    • Inserta una tercera púa por la cámara frontal.

  14. Mueve la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo y alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad. Mueve la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo y alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad. Mueve la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo y alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad.
    • Mueve la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo y alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad.

  15. Mueve la púa de apertura izquierda alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del tablet. Mueve la púa de apertura izquierda alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del tablet. Mueve la púa de apertura izquierda alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del tablet.
    • Mueve la púa de apertura izquierda alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del tablet.

  16. Recalienta el iOpener y apóyalo sobre el borde derecho de la pantalla para aflojar el adhesivo que está debajo.
    • Recalienta el iOpener y apóyalo sobre el borde derecho de la pantalla para aflojar el adhesivo que está debajo.

  17. Desliza la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo hasta aproximadamente a mitad de camino de la pantalla. Desliza la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo hasta aproximadamente a mitad de camino de la pantalla. Desliza la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo hasta aproximadamente a mitad de camino de la pantalla.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura derecha hacia abajo hasta aproximadamente a mitad de camino de la pantalla.

    take care not to insert more than 4mm!

    tobiasscholand - Contestar

  18. Recalienta el iOpener y aplica calor al lado izquierdo del iPad.
    • Recalienta el iOpener y aplica calor al lado izquierdo del iPad.

  19. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo aproximadamente hasta mitad de camino del borde de la pantalla. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo aproximadamente hasta mitad de camino del borde de la pantalla. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo aproximadamente hasta mitad de camino del borde de la pantalla.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo aproximadamente hasta mitad de camino del borde de la pantalla.

  20. Desliza la púa de apertura opuesta hasta la esquina inferior derecha del iPad. Si es necesario, recalienta el adhesivo en el borde derecho para aflojar el conjunto de pantalla. Si es necesario, recalienta el adhesivo en el borde derecho para aflojar el conjunto de pantalla.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura opuesta hasta la esquina inferior derecha del iPad.

    • Si es necesario, recalienta el adhesivo en el borde derecho para aflojar el conjunto de pantalla.

    This is it. This was the step where I cracked the screen and ruined the device. Things had been going so well up to this point. Like many others I struggled with the iOpener, so I used a heat gun along with a temperature sensor and very carefully and slowly went back and forth along the edges keeping the temperature at exactly 200 degrees F. I got the pick in, went around the top corners, down the sides to the middle. But on this step where you finish sliding the pick to the bottom right corner, I got 3/4ths of the way down and CRACK. The glass shattered pretty badly in the corner, and there’s a crack running diagonally along the entire device. I put clear packing tape on top to keep it from cracking further, but sections of the screen are non-responsive. I can’t tell you how upset my 5 year old is going to be when he wakes up tomorrow and I have to tell him daddy wrecked his iPad. :( I believe strongly in the Right to Repair and this kit is fine. But GO SLOWLY, and BE CAREFUL.

    George Mann - Contestar

  21. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo por el borde de la pantalla hasta que llegues a la esquina. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo por el borde de la pantalla hasta que llegues a la esquina. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo por el borde de la pantalla hasta que llegues a la esquina.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda hacia abajo por el borde de la pantalla hasta que llegues a la esquina.

    I made it one step farther than the person above me. Made it about 1 inch from the bottom left corner and the screen shattered. I probably let it cool too much as I think I was getting a little impatient by now. The kit is great though. I successfully removed the rest of the screen even after it broke with no damage to anything else. I continued on to replace the battery and bought a new LCD (This was a roughly $130 mistake). I stress, go slowly, heat often. Kit worked great otherwise.

    Joseph Eichinger - Contestar

  22. Usa el iOpener para aplicar calor al borde inferior del iPad.
    • Usa el iOpener para aplicar calor al borde inferior del iPad.

  23. Mueve la púa de apertura derecha alrededor de la esquina inferior del iPad. Mueve la púa de apertura derecha alrededor de la esquina inferior del iPad. Mueve la púa de apertura derecha alrededor de la esquina inferior del iPad.
    • Mueve la púa de apertura derecha alrededor de la esquina inferior del iPad.

  24. Repite para la púa izquierda. Recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener si es necesario. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener. Recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener si es necesario. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.
    • Repite para la púa izquierda.

    • Recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener si es necesario. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

  25. Remueve la púa de apertura derecha del borde inferior del iPad. Remueve la púa de apertura derecha del borde inferior del iPad.
    • Remueve la púa de apertura derecha del borde inferior del iPad.

    F…ing cracked the glass. This repair is a waste of time and money. The iOpener is b.s. You need to use a heat gun and/or a blow dryer. I had used the heat gun and a blow dryer to successfully separated the glass from the body until I reached the bottom. This is becuase I had left the heated iOpener on the bottom for at least 20 minutes. I used the blow dryer for the top and sides and it worked. When I turned the corner on the bottom, the glass shattered. The tip of pick was not in very far, maybe 2mm. Guess my only option now is a new iPad.

    mpulliam - Contestar

    same here, and I’m not using their $2 dinky microwave palm rest, I have a head gun and I’ve been heating this thing for 20 mintues side by side. Still cracked the class. Don’t attempt this, to do this successfully you should’ve had cracked 10 screens.

    Hussam Almuayad - Contestar

  26. Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior de la pantalla, luego quítala de la esquina derecha inferior del iPad. Ten mucho cuidado de no insertar la púa más de un cuarto de pulgada (6 mm) dentro de la pantalla para evitar dañar el Botón de inicio y los cables de la pantalla que están debajo. Ten mucho cuidado de no insertar la púa más de un cuarto de pulgada (6 mm) dentro de la pantalla para evitar dañar el Botón de inicio y los cables de la pantalla que están debajo.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior de la pantalla, luego quítala de la esquina derecha inferior del iPad.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de no insertar la púa más de un cuarto de pulgada (6 mm) dentro de la pantalla para evitar dañar el Botón de inicio y los cables de la pantalla que están debajo.

    warning! The gap just below the home button is 2mm. Be very careful. It is the thinnest space!

    jinwoo KIM - Contestar

  27. Gira la púa restante en la cámara frontal para separar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior. Gira la púa restante en la cámara frontal para separar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior. Gira la púa restante en la cámara frontal para separar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior.
    • Gira la púa restante en la cámara frontal para separar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior.

  28. Continúa levantando el conjunto de pantalla desde el lado de la cámara frontal. Tira la pantalla ligeramente fuera del borde inferior para separarla completamente de la carcasa posterior. Sigue levantando hasta que el conjunto de pantalla esté aproximadamente de forma perpendicular al cuerpo del iPad.
    • Continúa levantando el conjunto de pantalla desde el lado de la cámara frontal.

    • Tira la pantalla ligeramente fuera del borde inferior para separarla completamente de la carcasa posterior.

    • Sigue levantando hasta que el conjunto de pantalla esté aproximadamente de forma perpendicular al cuerpo del iPad.

    • No intentes quitar la pantalla aún; sigue enganchada a la carcasa inferior por tres delicados cables tipo cinta.

  29. Remueve el único tornillo Phillips de 1.8 mm que asegura los terminales de la batería a sus contactos en la placa lógica.
    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips de 1.8 mm que asegura los terminales de la batería a sus contactos en la placa lógica.

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - Contestar

    What I did was, initially using a magnetic screwdriver bit, after removing putting them on a magnetic mat, then after removing cables I screwed them back into the original holes to hold them in safe place while completing the repair.

    Yes, those screws are some of the tiniest screws I have seen, on par with mechanical watch mechanism screws.

    Drop one of them, and you are screwed.

    G Trieste -

    I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!

    jackwong.123 - Contestar

    Hi jackwong,

    If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.

    Arthur Shi -

    If the LTE version being worked on, ensure the sim tray is removed before attempting to isolate the battery.

    Brendon Gould - Contestar

  30. Para reducir el riesgo de un cortocircuito, puedes usar una púa aisladora de baterías para desconectar la batería. El uso de una púa aislante o un bloqueador de batería es una manera obsoleta de quitar una batería, ya que te arriesgas a dañar las conexiones de la batería bajo la placa base. Si usas este método, ten mucho cuidado e introduce estos dispositivos lenta y directamente hacia la placa base, sin girar o agitar la púa al hacerlo.
    • Para reducir el riesgo de un cortocircuito, puedes usar una púa aisladora de baterías para desconectar la batería.

    • El uso de una púa aislante o un bloqueador de batería es una manera obsoleta de quitar una batería, ya que te arriesgas a dañar las conexiones de la batería bajo la placa base. Si usas este método, ten mucho cuidado e introduce estos dispositivos lenta y directamente hacia la placa base, sin girar o agitar la púa al hacerlo.

    • Desliza una púa aisladora de baterías debajo del área del conector de la batería de la placa lógica, y déjala en ese lugar mientras trabajas.

    Where am I supposed to get this part? I got the ifixit pro toolkit and didn't get this isolation pick

    Raid One - Contestar

    Since the battery blocker is a specialized tool used only for iPad repairs, we do not include it in the toolkit. You can purchase one here, or you can make one yourself by cutting a notch out of an opening pick.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can’t you just disconnect the battery?

    Pontus Sennerstam - Contestar

    So if this method is outdated, what is the current method to disconnecting the battery?

    Orochi - Contestar

    Orochi: right?? Come on guys, don’t tell us the method is outdated and then not explain what the better method is

    Subtle Hyperbole - Contestar

    A couple points: 1) You have piqued my interest! I’m now looking for the new, improved way to isolate the battery before embarking on the repair. 2) I have an iPad Air 2 with LTE, the area on ifixit.com for the LTE variant of the model does not have all the procedures that this WIFI only variant page has.

    bentley - Contestar

    Hey bentley,

    If you find a way to safely isolate the battery without the risk of damaging the connector pins, keep us posted!

    Arthur Shi -

    I did not do this part and had no problems. Just don’t bridge any metal parts with the screwdriver. (at least I assume this is what would cause a short)

    Nancy Hansen - Contestar

    Actually you can cause some shorts with your fingers too. You can skip this step, but you must bee very carefull going on.

    Daniele Carminati -

    Heat motherboard then use plastic stick or guitar pick to gently unstick motherboard enough to insert peace of paper where battery contacts are.

    Thank me later.

    Popka Durak - Contestar

    I took a business card and notched it like the shown pick. Just wide enough to fit and notched to clear the screw post. Worked like a champ.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

    마더보드는 바닥판에 접착되어 있습니다. 이것은 배터리 접점에서 들어 올려져야(약간 구부러져야) 합니다. 사진을 자세히 보시면 터미널의 좌우 기판도 보입니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Contestar

    jinwoo KIM’s comment translated:

    The motherboard is glued to the bottom plate. This must be lifted (slightly bent) from the battery contacts. If you look closely at the photos, you will also see the left and right boards of the terminal.

    G Trieste - Contestar

  31. Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla. Quita el soporte. Quita el soporte.
    • Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla.

    • Quita el soporte.

  32. Desconecta el conector de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Desconecta el conector de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Desconecta el conector de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  33. Desconecta los dos cables del digitalizador debajo del cable de datos de la pantalla. Desconecta los dos cables del digitalizador debajo del cable de datos de la pantalla. Desconecta los dos cables del digitalizador debajo del cable de datos de la pantalla.
    • Desconecta los dos cables del digitalizador debajo del cable de datos de la pantalla.

  34. Remueve el conjunto de panel frontal de la carcasa posterior.
    • Remueve el conjunto de panel frontal de la carcasa posterior.

    • Si planeas reutilizar el ensamblaje de la pantalla, tendrás que reemplazar el adhesivo de la pantalla. Sigue nuestra guía de adhesivos para iPad para volver a aplicar el adhesivo de pantalla y volver a sellar el dispositivo.

    Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.

    John McDonnell - Contestar

    At this stage I found you do not need to do most of the rest of this guide although it does come with a warning. The battery is tethered to a metal ring which is the base of the retention screw in step 29. After Step 33, you can separate out the batteries from its adhesive now with a blow dryer or the iOpener (step 56). You will then find the battery free but hooked onto the ring. Take the blue opening tool (see step 55 for which tool this is) and wedge it where the battery is to make a gap. You can then lift the battery contact from its hook. After removing the battery, insert the new one into the small gap created by the wedge. The caveat is that you are bending the logic board a bit with the wedge so use this technique at your discretion.

    Raza Toosy - Contestar

    Thanks a lot! For my Celluar version (A1567 Air 2 Wi-Fi + Cellular), I followed the instructions to step 45 to remove all cables and connectors around the battery. Then I also jumped to step 56. To remove the middle part of the battery, I used a longer tool, a ruler, in addition to the enclosed "Plastic Cards". The glued battery could be removed by using the iOpener several times. In the end, the battery was only hanging on the clamp.

    Only now I understood that the battery was hanging on an eyelet on the back. The lever with the "iPad Battery Isolation Pick" was not enough. Therefore I cut an additional credit card with a small slot. The clamping point slipped out of the eyelet. The clamping point of the new battery could be plugged in again immediately.

    Josef Emmer -

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

5 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

en es

91%

Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

Evan Noronha

Miembro Desde 05/02/15

208,672 Reputación

178 Guías creadas

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Community

136 Miembros

16,682 Guías creadas

2 comentarios

Per separare il display con i plettri avete descritto 18 passaggi, ok, così anche i bambini capiscono.

Per isolare la batteria, cosa molta importante, avete descritto solo 2 passaggi in modo poco chiaro: non si capisce se il plettro è un plettro predisposto, se bisogna tagliarne uno e come si infila al di sotto del connettore senza fare danni.

su40 - Contestar

Buongiorno!

Abbiamo un plettro predisposto: Battery Blocker

Poi grazie per l’osservazione! Hai ragione, le spiegazioni per isolare la batterie non erano esaustive, perciò la guida originale in inglese è stata adattata. La traduzione non era più attuale. L’abbiamo aggiornata. Nostro sito è un wiki che viene migliorato e completato continuamente. Così anche gli utenti hanno la possibilità di modificare direttamente le guide e di aiutarci a tradurle.

Buona riparazione!

Claire Miesch -

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 horas: 0

Ultimos 7 días: 2

Ultimos 30 días: 14

Todo El Tiempo: 1,628