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Introducción

Tripped over your power cord? At least you don't have to replace the entire logic board. Use this guide to replace a broken DC-in board.

  1. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, Battery: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, Battery: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use your thumbs to push the two battery retaining tabs away from the battery.

    • The battery should pop up enough to rotate it toward yourself and lift it out of the lower case.

  2. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, Memory Door: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the three 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the memory cover to the lower case.

  3. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • Lift the memory cover slightly and pull it toward yourself to remove it from the lower case.

  4. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, Upper Case: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 14.7 mm shouldered Phillips.

    • Three 12.3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3.8 mm T8 Torx.

    • One 6.8 mm T8 Torx.

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips.

  5. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • The ZIF cable is located underneath the bottom RAM slot. If your PowerBook has both RAM slots occupied, make sure to remove the RAM chip.

    • Use your fingernails to separate the ZIF cable lock away from its socket. (Move the two brown bits down 1mm)

    • The ZIF cable lock will move about a millimeter away from the socket before it stops (see picture 2). Do not try to remove the ZIF cable lock.

  6. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

  7. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws from the PC card side of the PowerBook.

    • When replacing these screws, you must reinstall each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

  8. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws from the DVI connector side of the PowerBook.

    • When replacing these screws, you must reinstall each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

    • During reassembly, make sure to reinstall the two screws on the right into their appropriate locations, and not the DVI port anchor holes.

  9. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 9, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 9, imagen 2 de 2
    • Depress the display latch release button and open your display.

  10. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Starting near the display, lift the upper case straight up off the lower case, minding any cables that may get caught.

  11. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, DC-In Board: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the strip of tape covering the speaker cables.

  12. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the modem.

  13. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 13, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 13, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use your fingernails or the tip of a spudger to separate the ZIF cable lock from its socket.

    • The ZIF cable lock will move about 1 mm and stop. Do not attempt to completely remove the ZIF cable lock.

  14. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Pull the DC-in cable out of its socket.

  15. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 15, imagen 1 de 1
    • Peel the DC-in cable off the adhesive securing it to the lower case.

  16. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 16, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 16, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape from the channel on the side of the left speaker.

    • De-route the cables from the channel in the left speaker.

  17. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 17, imagen 1 de 3 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 17, imagen 2 de 3 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 17, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remove the single T8 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the lower case.

    • Lift the left speaker from its rear edge and maneuver it out of the lower case, minding the cables sitting in the channel near the front edge of the left speaker.

    • Set the speaker next to the lower case.

  18. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Pull the DC power cable connector straight up off the DC-in board.

  19. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 19, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the DC-in board to the lower case.

    • New line.

  20. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Pull the DC-in board away from the side of the lower case to separate the ports from their bezel.

    • Lift the DC-in board out of the lower case.

  21. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, RJ-11 Board: paso 21, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use your thumbs to slide the RJ-11 board slightly away from the DC-In board.

  22. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to continue removing the RJ-11 board away from the DC-In board.

  23. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, DC-In Board: paso 23, imagen 1 de 2 PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement, DC-In Board: paso 23, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the ZIF cable lock from its socket.

    • The ZIF cable lock will move about 1 mm and stop. Do not attempt to completely remove the ZIF cable lock.

  24. PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res) DC-In Board Replacement Replacement: paso 24, imagen 1 de 1
    • Pull the DC-in board cable straight out of its socket.

    • DC-in board remains.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Un comentario

This guide was perfect, I successfully repaired my machine with a replacement board.

I just wanted to make two comments that might help someone else following this guide:

* (Step 20) When inserting the replacement board, I had a bit of trouble getting it to sit in place; it would go in, but even when pushed, was about 1.5mm out of position. After a while I realised there was a tiny plastic rib under the board that seemed to be interfering. I pinched the plastic rib with pliers and then my board slotted fully into place.

* (Step 10, when reassembling) When replacing the top half on to the case, make sure the trackpad ribbon cable is poking through the small slot in the base chassis! First time I reassembled, the ribbon was folded up and I had to re-separate the case to poke it through.

Toby Thain - Contestar

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