Introducción
Use this guide to replace a damaged front bezel.
Qué necesitas
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Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees to the right.
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Lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.
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Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.
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On the keyboard, remove the F1, F2, F11, and F12 keys.
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This is scary - take a deep breath before continuing. Place your index finger under the upper left corner of the key and lift up until you hear a click. Then, transfer your finger to the left edge of the key and lift up to pull the key off.
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You're freeing the two tabs on the left of the key from the two small holes in the plastic scissors mechanism.
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Remove the three small Phillips screws from within the battery compartment.
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Turn the computer over and open it up.
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Remove the following 14 screws:
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Six 2.5 mm Phillips on either side of the keyboard area.
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Five 4.5 mm Phillips on the left half of the keyboard area.
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One 7 mm hex in the upper left corner of the upper case (a T6 Torx driver will do the job nicely).
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One 15 mm Phillips in the upper middle of the keyboard area.
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One 16.5 mm hex in the upper right of the upper case (again, a T6 Torx driver will work well).
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Peel up the two pieces of foil tape on the left side of the keyboard area.
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Carefully disconnect the microphone and power cables from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connectors from their sockets. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
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Remove the single Phillips screw from the reed switch board on the right side of the computer.
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Deroute the cable connecting the reed switch board to the DC-to-DC board.
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Peeling up yellow tape as necessary, remove the following 8 screws:
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One 4.5 mm Phillips on the right side of the heat sink.
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Three 6 mm Phillips near the display.
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Two large 7.5 mm Phillips with springs (don't forget to remove the springs). If the springs are not releasing, needle nose pliers can help get this done.
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Two 13 mm screws from the left side of the heat sink and the right side of the fan.
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Remove the following five screws:
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One 3 mm Phillips near the screen latch (mind the big magnet on the screen latch).
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Two 3.5 mm Phillips attaching the EMI fingers to the metal framework.
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One 10 mm Phillips near the optical drive.
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One 14 mm long 4 mm standoff in the upper left corner. You can remove this standoff either with a 4 mm nut driver or needlenose pliers.
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Lift the EMI fingers above the battery connector away from the metal framework.
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Disconnect the multicolor connector from the upper right corner of the logic board.
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Remove the following 2 screws:
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One Phillips buried under the cable to the right of the fan area.
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One Phillips holding down the display data cable on the left side of the computer.
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Remove the single Phillips screw that attaches the DC-In board to the lower case.
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The tip of my power supply plug broke off inside the power receptacle.
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Once the DC-in board has been removed.
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Peal back the metal RFI shield.
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At the back of the power receptacle - gently pull the top of the center tab out away from the receptacle body. Forming a gap.
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From the front of the receptacle - use a screwdriver to push the broken tip out the gap.
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Push the center tab back in place.
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Replace the RFI shield.
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Remove the two Phillips screws from the upper right corner of the computer.
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Remove the newly-liberated small metal bracket.
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Peel back the yellow tape from the right side of the subwoofer.
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Remove the single Phillips screw from the right side of the subwoofer, under the tape you just removed.
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Remove the yellow tape that secures the remaining cables to the side of the subwoofer.
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Deroute the Airport Extreme antenna from the card slot and lower case, removing tape as necessary.
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Remove the two T6 Torx screws in the lower left and lower right corners of the display securing the rear bezel to the display assembly.
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Insert the spudger between the left edge of the front display bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel, with the edge of the tool angled toward the LCD.
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Rotate the tool away from the LCD to pop the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel.
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Work along the left edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.
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Insert a spudger between the right edge of the front display bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel, with the edge of the tool angled toward the LCD.
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Rotate the tool away from the LCD to pop the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel.
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Work along the right edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.
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Insert a spudger between the top edge of the front display bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel, with the edge of the tool angled toward the LCD.
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Rotate the tool away from the LCD to pop the rear bezel off the tabs on the front display bezel.
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Work along the top edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.
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Flip the device over and remove the two 4.5 mm Phillips screws on each side of the metal bracket (four screws in total).
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Thread the display inverter, antenna, and display data cables through the bracket and remove the metal bracket.
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Disconnect the inverter cable by pulling the connector away from the socket on the inverter board.
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Remove the two 5.5 mm Phillips screws securing the left clutch hinge to the front display bezel.
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Remove the three 3.0 mm Phillips screws securing the right clutch cover to the front display bezel.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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