Introducción
Esta guía muestra cómo reemplazar los botones de disparo rotos en un controlador Nintendo Switch Pro. Los gatillos rotos limitan una experiencia de juego óptima con la consola Nintendo Switch. Reemplazar un gatillo roto en tu controlador te ayudará a usar tu controlador en toda su extensión. Esta guía requiere un desmontaje casi completo del controlador. Por lo tanto, ten cuidado durante el desmontaje para asegurarte de no dañar los circuitos o los conectores de cinta en el interior del controlador.
Qué necesitas
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Voltea el mando para que las pegatinas de los modelos estén orientadas hacia el techo.
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Usa un destornillador JIS#00 para quitar los dos tornillos negros de 8,4 mm que sujetan las manijas, ubicados en los extremos de las manijas.
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Retira con cuidado las tapas de las asas separándolas del cuerpo principal.
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Utiliza un destornillador JIS n.º 00 para quitar los cuatro tornillos plateados de 6,8 mm que sujetan la cubierta de plástico transparente posterior.
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Retira con cuidado la cubierta de plástico transparente con la uña.
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Retira la cubierta de plástico transparente.
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Retira la batería de iones de litio haciendo palanca con una uña o una herramienta de apertura de plástico en el lado izquierdo.
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Usa un destornillador Phillips #1 para quitar los cinco tornillos de 5 mm de largo de la parte posterior del controlador.
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Los tornillos ubicados en la parte superior de los mangos y el tornillo ubicado debajo del hueco de la batería se hallan en huecos poco profundos y pueden quitarse sin dificultad.
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Los dos tornillos ubicados a los lados de los botones ZR y ZL se hallan en huecos bastante profundos. Necesitarás un extensor, o un destornillador Phillips lo suficientemente largo para alcanzar los tornillos.
the 2 screws up at the top are unreachable with the standard fixit kit just a heads up
Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.
An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.
I would say it is possible to reach the top left screw, just not the top right - there is a gap in the top left that allows you to slightly bend the standard driver outward to turn it while still making adequate contact.
An update: I was actually able to remove the top right one in a really hacky way - inserting the Phillips #0 bit into the #4 hex bit, and then using that in the standard driver. This added just enough length to successfully reach and make full contact with the screw!
Using the #4 hex bit as an extension was the exact "hack" I needed to get rid of the drift finally. Thank you. You're a lifesaver.
Das #4 Hex Bit als Verlängerung für das Kreuzschlitz Bit zu nutzen ist zwar etwas eng, aber es erspart einem wirklich einen zusätzlichen Schraubendreher.
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Retira con cuidado la cubierta de plástico del controlador.
Didn't realize there is adhesive holding the front cover onto the unit. It's located inside of the handles. Just a bit of force there helped, just be careful of the cable.
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Usa la punta de una púa de apertura para abrir la solapa negra del conector ZIF empujándolo hacia arriba
Having just completed this repair, I noted that this ribbon cable can disconnect on either side. It is easier to disconnect and reconnect from the other side than what is shown in my experience.
@acestronautical is right! much easier to remove the ribbon cable from the button board, connect to the base board and then connect back to the button board. Thank you @acestronautical
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Usa tus dedos o un par de pinzas de punta roma para desconectar el cable de interconexión de su conector.
You don't need to disconnect this as long as you are fine with keeping it close by so as not to rip the ribbon cable.
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Retira los dos tornillos de 6,8 mm de largo en la placa de circuito superior con un destornillador Phillips.
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Usa un spudger para levantar la pestaña de bloqueo del conector ZIF.
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Retira el cable plano negro de su conector.
What do I do if the connector snaps off? Is it fixable with solder or electrical tape or should I give up hope?
This ribbon cable is difficult to reconnect, quality tweezers are required. I was unable to slide the ribbon cable in to where I could no longer see the traces. Take note of how much ribbon cable is exposed before disconnecting so that you can have an easier time judging when the cable is fully inserted upon reconnecting.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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Equipo
Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019 Miembro de Cal Poly, Team S11-G2, Regan Fall 2019
CPSU-REGAN-F19S11G2
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42 Guías creadas
5 comentarios
This guide does show how to remove the trigger/bumper casing and board from the controller but does not show how to remove the triggers/bumpers from the casing they are in.
Yeah, this is a pretty big point to be missing, especially with the Flex Cable for the shoulder button inputs being right beside the post you need to pull out to remove the ZL and ZR buttons. Guidance on how to remove the post safely without damaging the cable would be great.
After reinstalling the shoulder buttons I have found them to stop working, all four, I checked my ribbon cable from the buttons to the board and even replaced it. I also confirmed the ribbon cable connector on the main board is working as well. Can anyone make any further troubleshooting suggestions?
Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.
Lukas Eberharter - Contestar
I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.
Isaac Webb - Contestar
I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work
vincent ingrassia - Contestar