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Introducción

Follow this guide to replace the power and volume button board inside of a Nintendo Switch gaming console.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide  the controller upward.
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other controller. Repeat this same process for the other controller.
    • Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  3. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Contestar

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Contestar

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Contestar

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Contestar

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Contestar

  5. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

  7. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Contestar

  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

  9. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - Contestar

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

  10. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate up. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate up.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Contestar

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Contestar

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Contestar

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally - Contestar

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

  11. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  12. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan. The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

  14. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Contestar

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - Contestar

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - Contestar

  15. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

  16. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    Will need to remove parts and board in top left in order to get to 3rd fan screw.

    Christopher Hernandez - Contestar

  17. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

  18. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device. Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

    • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

  19. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the tapped down power/volume ribbon cable.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the tapped down power/volume ribbon cable.

    I was able to replace the LCD and touch glass on my son's Switch. Everything went well the LCD worked again the screen too ... everything really ... except the ON / OFF buttons and volume ... I opened the switch again and tried to put the Ribbon Flex Cable back on the ZIF connector. As I was getting unnerved, I ended up detaching the ZIF connector from the motherboard, which came out broken. Now I look for this ZIF connector on the internet and I can't find it. Can anyone help me? Thank you

    Joao Paulo Couto - Contestar

  21. Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers. Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
    • Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 personas más completaron esta guía.

Blake Klein

Miembro Desde 29/01/17

60,811 Reputación

59 Guías creadas

Great guide. Just repaired my daughters Switch by replacing power button.

William Flo - Contestar

I replaced the cable and still have the same issue, volume up button don't work and volume down is volume up, and it's always kn

nem37g - Contestar

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