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Fix Your Stuff

Right to Repair

Parts & Tools

Introducción

Follow this guide to replace the 3.5mm headphone jack and game card reader board in a Nintendo Switch gaming console.

  1. Remove the four 6.3mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.
    • Remove the four 6.3mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.

  2. Remove the single 6.1mm JIS #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.
    • Remove the single 6.1mm JIS #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.

    Mine was no longer than about 1mm.

    Nani - Contestar

  3. Remove the two 2.7mm JIS #000 screws from the bottom of the device.
    • Remove the two 2.7mm JIS #000 screws from the bottom of the device.

  4. Remove the single 2.7mm JIS #000 screw from the top of the device.
    • Remove the single 2.7mm JIS #000 screw from the top of the device.

  5. Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail. Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail.

    • Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.

    Please do not use a JIS #0 bit on this kit. I ended up stripping the screw on my switch and now I won't be able to get inside. You are much more likely to remove this screw with a JIS #000 bit, like literally every other screw on this machine. Why I thought I should throughly read and follow the instructions is beyond me, because I guess this ifixit guy decided it would be a great meme to get people to ruin their switches.

    Jacob Klinkenberg - Contestar

    +1, JIS #0 seems way too large; I used a #00 and that worked. I agree that #000 might have worked even better, but I saw this comment too late.

    Nikolai Knopp -

    Mine was #000 too. #0 was definitely too large. Also there are signs of blue threadlock.

    Nani - Contestar

  6. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.
    • Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.

    You appear to be missing a step. The SD card reader needs to be removed between steps 6 and 7.

    zharin - Contestar

  7. Remove the single 3.1 mm Phillips screw from micro SD card board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm Phillips screw from micro SD card board.

  8. Lift the micro SD card board straight up, away from the screen, to disconnect it. Lift the micro SD card board straight up, away from the screen, to disconnect it.
    • Lift the micro SD card board straight up, away from the screen, to disconnect it.

    I cant get the card reader to stay connected to the motherboard when trying to reassemble it. Help needed.

    aNtHoNy R - Contestar

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Contestar

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Contestar

  9. Remove the six 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the shield plate.
    • Remove the six 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the shield plate.

    Between Step 6 and Step 7, there is a missing step of disconnecting and removing the SD Card reader.

    Theo Mat - Contestar

    @theomat Step 7 and 8 show the removal of the SD Card reader.

    Blake Klein - Contestar

    Step 7 and 8 do not show that. It is completely missing. You show the card reader as being absent, but now how it came to BE absent. A lot of people will try to pull the shield out, presuming the reader is meant to come out with it. Why not update the guide?

    Daniel Henderson - Contestar

    Are you seeing something different then what’s seen in this screenshot? https://jmp.sh/PdfdhSy

    Blake Klein -

    @blakeklein I am not seeing that part of the tutorial, no.

    Nico Robin - Contestar

  10. Remove the shield plate from the device. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Use our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Use our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro.
    • Remove the shield plate from the device.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Use our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Contestar

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    I’d recommend replacing the thermal compound to ensure that the cooling system works as intended.

    Blake Klein - Contestar

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Contestar

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Contestar

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

  11. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.

  12. Remove the three 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the heatsink.
    • Remove the three 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the heatsink.

  13. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove.
    • Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Contestar

  14. Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips screws from the headphone jack bracket.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips screws from the headphone jack bracket.

  15. Remove the headphone jack bracket. Remove the headphone jack bracket.
    • Remove the headphone jack bracket.

  16. Use a spudger to lift the black locking flap on the ZIF connector up. To reconnect ZIF connectors like this one, gently slide the cable back in place and press the locking flap back into place.
    • Use a spudger to lift the black locking flap on the ZIF connector up.

    • To reconnect ZIF connectors like this one, gently slide the cable back in place and press the locking flap back into place.

  17. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  18. Remove the single 3.1 mm Phillips screw from the headphone jack and game card board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm Phillips screw from the headphone jack and game card board.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack press-fit connector straight up off the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack press-fit connector straight up off the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack press-fit connector straight up off the motherboard.

  20. Remove the headphone jack and game card board. Remove the headphone jack and game card board.
    • Remove the headphone jack and game card board.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

13 personas más completaron esta guía.

Blake Klein

Miembro Desde 29/01/17

48,155 Reputación

48 Guías creadas

The SD card slot removal wasn’t in the guide, but otherwise spot on. Thanks!

Justin Lowmaster - Contestar

Good catch! It’s updated now :)

Blake Klein -

It worked, thanks

Angie Rayos - Contestar

After changing the board out, I don’t have touch on the screen, put the original PCB back in the console and i have touch again, so its not that I did any damage to the flexes or ZIF connector. Any one have any ideas?

Griffin - Contestar

Hey man, did you ever figure this out? I have the exact same issue. My touchscreen is no longer working.

Uncle Jessy -

Seems there are different kinds of card slots, European, American and Japanese, Installing for example an Eurean version into an American version wil result in a not working touchscreen , i think it`s a software issue as the cardslot had same parts, if anyone finds a workaround please let us know

Eric Boer (De pspdokter) -

After changing the board i tried to insert a card game and i received the 2162-0002 error.

Could be a compatibility problem?

How to solve?

giovanni.sodaro - Contestar

Should you be applying a thermal paste when putting the heat sink back on?

andrewskm68 - Contestar

I ordered the tools in this guide directly from this page, and somehow ended up with a 1mm flathead instead of a tri-point driver. Looking at my receipt, the flathead is indeed listed, but I didn’t observe that at the time of purchase — it all makes me a bit frustrated, as I have no idea how that happened. I’m attempting to order the correct driver now, but my son is going to be disheartened that he has to wait another week before he gets his Switch back.

zarmanto - Contestar

I followed the whole guide, replaced it — and the headphone jack still only plays through one ear! Any ideas?!

Joshua Smith - Contestar

After changing game card, the screen has a mind of its own. It is just going crazy, going back and forth between games and just clicking on random things. It works fine intermittently. I have repaired the joy cons and calibrated. It is still happening. Any suggestions?

Rose - Contestar

Unfortunately my press fit connecter got damaged while trying to put it back together. Now I cant use cartrigdes. The guide should point out how to put it back together safely.

Ibramoh _ - Contestar

error code 2162-0002

an error has occurred.

please press the power button to restart the console. If you are unable to restart hold the power for 12 seconds to turn the console off.

It wont restart or power off. Any advice?

GARRETT MOLDREM - Contestar

took it apart again and found i didn’t have step 19 seated all the way. It fired up fine now, but the game card cannot be read, which was the whole point of the replacement.

GARRETT MOLDREM -

ifixit sent me a replacement card reader that worked this time, EXCEPT now no touch screen. SMH.

GARRETT MOLDREM -

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