Introducción
¿Ya no puedes hacer que Bowser sople fuego soplando el micrófono? ¡Reemplaza ese micrófono roto y quema todo lo que esté a la vista!
Qué necesitas
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Desatornille el tornillo Phillips que sujeta la tapa de la batería a la carcasa inferior.
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Haz palanca en la cubierta de la batería hacia arriba con un spudger o una uña y levántala para sacarla de la caja inferior.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar ambas patas de goma del DS Lite
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Quite los siguientes tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al cuerpo del DS Lite:
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Dos tornillos 4.3 mm gold Phillips
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Un tornillo 3.9 mm black Tri-Wing
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Un tornillo 3.3 mm silver Phillips
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Tres tornillos 5.5 mm silver Tri-Wing
I cannot remove the tri-wing screws.
Same to me. I tried opening the case by force. Broke several parts of the motherboard…
Leon -
I can't remove the final tri wing screw in the battery section and it looks like I grinded the screw out too much for any screwdriver to work.Is there anything I can do?
From what I know, the only solution is to drill the screw out with a very small-headed drill :/
Polaris -
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Inserta el borde de un spudger entre la caja inferior y superior cerca de la esquina superior derecha del DS Lite.
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Pasa con cuidado el spudger a lo largo del borde derecho del DS Lite, creando una abertura en el proceso.
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Continúa pasando el spudger por la parte trasera de la DS Lite hasta que la mayor parte de la caja inferior se haya separado de la caja superior.
Don’t forget to remove the GBA cartridge placeholder before removing the backside
You forgot to mention to remove the battery compartment Phillips screw.
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Levanta la carcasa inferior del resto del DS Lite.
When you reassemble, make sure that you have the volume and power buttons in place, and make sure they are in the right position to line up with the switches on the motherboard. If they are not aligned, you risk snapping off the tiny switches on the motherboard (in which case, you are in for some soldering work).
I should have read the comments first - broke off the power switch because I didn't know about aligning it. No way I can do soldering, guess it's for the dustbin :-(
Emma -
Whoops, remembered the power button but forgot the volume slider.
I'll do it later.
There is no way that the fact you have to line up the volume and power switch toggles upon reassembly is not in this guide. I just carefully followed this guide to replace the shoulder buttons but ruined my DS lite because I didn’t read these (practically hidden comments due to the design of the website) comments and broke the power switch. Thankfully there are 150 million DS I can buy second hand but “repeat the steps backwards” wasn’t sufficient in this repair. And that’s what this website is for.
Ryan -
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Levanta ambos botones disparadores del DS Lite.
Anything after step 7 is unnecessary if having to replace the left or right trigger button(s).
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Usa el borde plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la antena Wi-Fi de su zócalo en la placa Wi-Fi.
There is absolutely no need to follow steps 8-13 if like me, all you needed to do was access the face buttons for cleaning/replacement. Once you have unscrewed the motherboard from the front casing you can just flip it up, making sure you take the front screen with it. You will have full access to the buttons and all of their contacts. No need to remove the wifi board and microphone cable, etc. Also, replacing the ribbon cables for the screen is especially frustrating. Avoid taking them out at all costs, if you can.
what is the "etc."?
Rita Cao -
For those replacing the bottom screen, you can just skip to step 13 and go from there. No need to remove the wifi board, antenna, etc.
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Usa el borde plano de un spudger para sacar el conector de la placa Wi-Fi de su zócalo en la placa base.
Do you have to put back in the WiFi board? As far as I know it does not require it to play games.
With the Nintendo servers now off, and all the games are playable without WiFi. That being said, I don’t know what is used for local multiplayer.
Polaris -
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Usa el borde plano de un spudger para separar el borde derecho de la placa Wi-Fi de la placa base.
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Quita la tarjeta Wi-Fi del DS Lite.
I took it apart successfully and I replaced the screen but I've put it back together and it the green light turns on for about 2seconds quiet dim, brighter for about 1 and then it turns off... I then took the wifi board out, and it turned on! What have I done to it and why doesn't it work with it and only without?!
Exact same symptoms for me : on boot up, green light would stay on for 1 second, then shut down. Without wifi, green light would stay on, but blank screens. In fact, it's because on boot up, DS will check if wifi is present, and stop if there is an error. Then, it checks for upper screen, and after that, for lower screen. If one of these is not responding, DS will turn off. I check my cables (upper screen) and DS started again with no problem.
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Usa el borde plano de un spudger para sacar el conector del micrófono de su zócalo en la placa base.
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Coloca el cable de la antena con su conector hacia arriba y lejos de la placa base usando un spudger para sujetarlo ligeramente en el espacio entre los chips de la placa base.
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Tira lentamente y con cuidado del cable de la antena hasta que el conector del cable quede debajo del lector de cartuchos de juegos DS Lite.
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Continúa tirando del cable hasta que el conector del cable salga por debajo del lector de cartuchos de juego en el lado derecho.
I can't for the life of me get this freaking antenna cable back when putting everything together, it keeps getting stuck under slot-1 ... how do you aid it through? I'm just pushing it through using the cable itself, but the connector gets stuck somewhere close to the other side and the cable pushing won't do anything but flex the cable.
I had some .015" solder that I fed through the other side and wrapped around the antenna cable to help guide it when I was feeding it back through.
Fantastic guide, although you !@#$%^&* :P forgot to add that you need a Soldiering Kit at the LAST step, thanks..
I did mine without have to soldier, but then again I was cannibalizing the upper screen from one DS to another.
Tried to add this but unsure if it will stay but here is my advice for the cable feeding.
When reassembling and attempting to feed the antenna cable back under the DS Lite game cartridge reader the cable will likely kink and be difficult to feed through.
Therefore tie a piece of white cotton (or another visible colour) thread tightly around the cable, just below the connector. Then feed the cotton under the DS Lite game cartridge reader and through to the other side. Then gently guide the connector back through by pulling on the white thread and moving either up or down to clear obstacles.
Attach a thread to the antenna wire BEFORE removing the antenna. Pull the antenna throught with the thread attached. After you get the antenna out, cut the thread from the antenna but LEAVE THE THREAD threaded thru the cartridge slot. Tape it to the cartridge slot so it doesn't fall out while you're working on the DS. After repairing, re-tie the thread to the antenna and use the thread to pull the antenna back thru to where it belongs. PULL GENTLY!
it was ez until i tried to put it back >:(
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Usa la uña o el borde de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa de retención del cable plano de la pantalla táctil.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable plano de la pantalla táctil de su zócalo.
The little black ribbon clip broke off and now I can't put it back on. What do I do now???
Same Problem here :( touc dosnt work anymore
Mine did the same thing, will it still work?
If I take it to a shop could they fix it????
There should be an added caution remark when removing the ribbon cable from the connector. If the black clip breaks, you're screwed. I have found the connector on another website for about $6. Then the issue is having the right tools to remove the broken connector and soldering on the new one.
How in the world do you get the ribbion cable back in there?
This requires care to make sure the black clip does not break off. If it does, replacing that connector will be a microsoldering job likely to exceed the value of the board.
It is also worth noting, that you can simply leave this connector as you found it and not remove the ribbon cable, and still complete this repair. Unless you intend to remove the lower LCD from the mainboard or if it is interfering with the microphone cable (white) routing, it will not be an issue.
Leaving this connected will also help keep the lower LCD from flopping around when you remove the mainboard.
This is tricky! I used my finger nail to open it since I was scared to put too much strenght with a spudger. Be really careful when moving the retaining flap. Just open it 90°, no more or you’ll breack it!
Putting back the ribbon of the (new) touch screen was the hardest part. The ribbon was bent to the side and my fingers too big to grab it withouth bumping on the mother board.
I finally found that holding the mobo with my left hand, looking at the ribbon from behind and pushing it with my index was more convenient, although my index was bumping on the retaining flap, thus partially closing it. After many trials and sweat, I finally inserted it and closed the flap! But the ribbon detached from te slot! :’( I put it back easily this time (after reopening the flap of course). And closed the retaining flap, pushing a bit harder this time, making sure I could feel a “click” confirming the proper closing. Don’t put too much strenght on it though!
The slot to insert it is so tiny! Use a magnifying glass if you can.
The microscopic flap came off in this step and I think you can’t ever put it back on, given you have no space to work with. This should really be explained better.
Has anyone had any luck replacing the retaining flap if it just falls out? Mines not broken, I just can't figure out how to get it back in.
You don’t need to remove this flap if you’re not removing the touchscreen (and even so, you can do it later). The touch and LCD screen can come out with the motherboard, so this cable doesn’t interfere with the disassembly.
The cable won’t go back in, and got damaged whilst I attempted to put it in.
This step didn't warn that the black retaining flap is easily breakable. Not only can it come off easily but hinges can break off. Unknown if kapton tape will be able to hold this in or if this part can be ordered third party. Very stupid explanation of the step. Broke my digitizer permanently while only trying to make a minor repair. Looks like this is a common complaint and the guide should be immediately taken down, edited, and then only put back up when it is safe.
Guide should have to explain how to mend or replace this part if it breaks since it's such a common problem.
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Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 3,4 mm que sujetan la placa base a la carcasa superior.
This has changed since, the right hand screw has been replaced by a screw under the battery, I didn’t have this screw in mine
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Usa la uña o el borde plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado la solapa superior de retención del cable plano de la pantalla LCD.
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Retira la placa base del DS Lite para separar el cable de cinta LCD superior de su zócalo en la placa base.
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Retira la placa base del DS Lite.
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Ahora puedes abrir la solapa de retención de la pantalla LCD inferior de la misma manera y separar la pantalla LCD inferior de la placa base.
this part on putting it back together is a straight nightmare, anyone got some tips on doing this quickly? i'm just getting a flickering bottom screen which is supposed to be an upper display connection problem, not sure if i'm getting the ribbon cable in deep enough. or an up close view of it in there so i know im not forcing it
I don't think there's a quick way for this, but I can tell you that the piece at the end is supposed to fit in all the way, and stop when you get to the corners of the bottom of it. A better way to explain this: put it in until you no longer see the gold part of it, or until it reaches the orange part of it.
After my first reassembly, the top screen was not working (bottom screen briefly flashind and DS turning off imediatly after swithcing on).
I found out it is the top screen that is not connected correctly.
You have to insert the ribbon until the part which is wider than the rest of the ribbon, almost bumps on the white connector.
This was too difficult with just my (too big) fingers. I used the spudger to push the ribbon from behind and maintain it when closing the retaining flap. This is kinda tricky, but it worked!
Guilhem's point is crucial - the ribbon connectors wider wings must be only a miniscule fraction away from the connector, or you'll get the flash screen of death. This is well worth checking especially as the later stages of manipulating the ribbon through the silver ring (if doing a full shell replacement) can make you feel like you're damaging the ribbon cable. Also check to make sure the black clip is fully closed, otherwise even the smallest movement during reassembly will pull it back out.
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Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 8,3 mm que sujetan la carcasa superior al ensamblaje de la pantalla.
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Usa un alfiler para quitar las cuatro cubiertas de plástico para tornillos en el bisel frontal.
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Con las dos manos, desliza suavemente el bisel posterior hacia arriba.
I wish I would have read this guide instead of watching videos that did not show this part. Because of this the rear bezel's tabs got deformed and now i can't put it back on. Trying to remove those tabs and just screw it in once its in place
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar ambos altavoces de su alojamiento y colócalos en la parte posterior de la pantalla LCD.
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Comenzando en la esquina superior derecha, usa ambas manos para separar lentamente la pantalla LCD del bisel de la pantalla frontal.
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Continúa separando a lo largo de los bordes superior e izquierdo de la pantalla LCD.
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Finalmente, empuja la pantalla LCD hacia arriba y hacia afuera del bisel de la pantalla frontal.
Any recommendations for where to get a good functioning LCD replacement?
HandheldLegend has a good one
Nicholas -
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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A Phillips #000 (PH000) seems to give a more secure fit (no slipping) than the stated Phillips #00.
Ritchie - Contestar
This will be good for mods
Matthew Bevins - Contestar
I'm having a problem getting the screw to unscrew. I have the right Phillips ( it was included with all the stuff I got this) Any tips. it doesn't look like the screw is spinning but i haven't played my Nintendo DS Lite for 3 years.
whittlegirls - Contestar
bonjour j’ai une petite question pour vous fais trés longtemps que j’ai pas utiliser mon nintendo ds lite et quand je le branche il allume 1 fois orange après il s’enteint même s’il est brancher ça veux tu dire qu’il faut que je change de batterie ? Merci
Marie-Julie Richer - Contestar
Soit un changement de batterie, soit la carte-mère a peut-être un court-circuit :/
Polaris -