Introducción
Esta guía te mostrará cómo reemplazar la parte más importante de tu Nintendo 3DS XL, la placa base. La placa base es la parte central de su dispositivo, ¡es donde sucede todo!
Qué necesitas
-
-
Afloja los dos tornillos Phillips #0 de 4,2 mm de longitud situados en la parte superior de la tapa posterior.
-
Los tornillos tienen arandelas (rondanas) de seguridad que evitan que los tornillos se desprendan de la cubierta . Deja las arandelas en los tornillos; no es necesario removerlas para esta guía de reparación.
-
-
-
Coloca el dispositivo de manera que la cubierta quede hacia arriba.
-
Usa una herramienta para abrir de plástico para desprender la cubierta empezando desde la esquina derecha.
-
Sostén la orilla de la cubierta para asegurarte de que no se cierre de nuevo.
-
Revisa la pequeña sección debajo del compartimiento del stylus. Manipula la cubierta en ese punto si aún no se ha desprendido.
-
Quita la cubierta del dispositivo y deja la batería a un lado.
Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.
-
-
-
Inserta la herramienta para abrir de plástico en la apertura localizada en el lado derecho de la batería.
-
Empuja la bateria fuera de la carcasa.
-
Levanta y retira la bateria fuera de la carcasa.
My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔
-
-
-
Usando pinzas remueve las gomas localizadas arriba del dispositivo a cada lado del slot de cartuchos
I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.
I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.
You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.
try twisting upward
My 3DS XL is so old that the rubber bumpers were very hard to remove.
So I tried to heat the rubber bumpers a little bit with a hair dryer for 15-20 seconds, with some pauses every 5 seconds in order to avoid overheating or damaging something as a precaution.
It worked well to remove them but the only drawback is that as my rubber bumpers already got damaged and scratched because of my previous attempts without heating first, heating it up after aggravated the scratch damages when I used tweezers.
So I would recommend heating the rubber bumpers moderately first and be gentle when using something that could scratch or damage them.
(Do not take my words for it, it may not work for you)
I was able to remove mine that were being very difficult with some dull tweezers. I used dull ones because I didn't want to scratch anything. First I wedged it between the plastic and the bumper, wiggled it a tiny bit, pulled it out, wedged it again in another spot and continued this until I got it out with my fingernail. Neither the bumper nor my shell were damaged.
-
-
-
Quite los 6 tornillos de 6.2 mm usando un desarmador Phillips #00
#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?
I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.
Megan -
I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.
I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.
I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.
All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.
One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?
I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?
-
-
-
Retira el tornillo de 2,3 mm ubicado sobre la ranura del cartucho de juego con un destornillador Phillips #00.
between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)
-
-
-
Asegúrate de que se haya retirado la tarjeta SD. Con una herramienta de apertura de plástico, haz palanca en la carcasa inferior comenzando por el borde inferior y trabajando alrededor del perímetro.
-
Dos cables planos conectan la carcasa a la placa de circuito. Ten cuidado de no tirar demasiado fuerte de la carcasa y rasgar los cables planos.
Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.
-
-
-
Retira los cables de cinta ubicados debajo de los topes izquierdo y derecho haciendo palanca en la base de los cables con una herramienta de apertura de plástico.
-
Retira completamente la carcasa inferior del resto del dispositivo y déjela a un lado.
Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!
Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.
That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...
Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.
You should always work on the device in a 3/4 open position- this allows the ribbon cables to have slack and will less likely tear, and is the only position the hinge pin can be removed or installed as it is keyed
-
-
-
-
Coloca el dispositivo de modo que la ranura del cartucho de juego quede en la parte superior.
-
Localiza el joystick circular en el lado derecho del dispositivo.
-
Retira los dos tornillos de 7,5 mm de las esquinas superior izquierda e inferior derecha.
Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.
-
-
-
Con una herramienta de apertura de plástico, saca el joystick circular de la almohadilla.
-
No utilices una fuerza excesiva con la herramienta de apertura de plástico. Hay una cinta que une el joystick a la placa base y que permanecerá unida.
I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.
I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in
-
-
-
Con el lado de la cabeza plana del spudger, levanta con cuidado la solapa de retención que une la cinta de la almohadilla circular a la placa base.
-
Retira la cinta y el joystick de la almohadilla circular.
The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.
The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.
For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.
To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.
Reemplazo del "Circle Pad" de la Nintendo 3DS
Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.
Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.
I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.
Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…
When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!
The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.
That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.
-
-
-
Coloca el dispositivo de modo que la ranura del cartucho de juego quede en la parte superior.
-
Localiza la placa IR ubicada en el lado superior derecho de la placa base.
-
Retira la placa IR con una herramienta de apertura de plástico insertando la herramienta debajo de la placa IR y haciendo palanca suavemente hacia arriba.
One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.
Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)
The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose
You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.
You skipped removing the microphopne.
I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.
-
-
-
Con una herramienta de apertura de plástico, saca la placa Wi-Fi.
-
La placa Wi-Fi aún estará conectada por un cable y no es necesario quitarla por completo para este paso. Simplemente colócala fuera de su lugar en este paso.
Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.
The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!
Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...
-
-
-
Ubica el interruptor de volumen en el lado derecho de la placa base al lado de la almohadilla circular del joystick .
-
Usando pinzas, retira con cuidado la placa de volumen de la carcasa. Todavía estará conectada a la placa base mediante un cable plano.
As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.
This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.
In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.
-
-
-
Con el lado de la cabeza plana del spudger, levanta con cuidado la solapa que une la cinta de la placa de volumen a la placa base.
-
Retira la placa de volumen y déjela a un lado.
This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.
What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?
Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.
-
-
-
Retira las piezas de plástico negro de las esquinas inferiores izquierda y derecha con los dedos o con pinzas.
-
También puedes quitar estas piezas fácilmente levantando con cuidado la 3DS y sosteniéndola boca abajo. Normalmente se caen, ¡pero no las pierdas!
Does anything happen if you lose them or not, that last part made me a little worried?
-
-
-
Con el lado de la cabeza plana del spudger, levanta con cuidado la solapa que une las dos cintas más pequeñas a la placa base.
-
Estas aletas se encuentran en la parte superior derecha e inferior derecha de la placa base.
-
Retira las cintas de la solapa.
For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.
MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)
Connor -
-
-
-
Usando el lado de la cabeza plana del spudger, levanta con cuidado las aletas que unen las cintas más anchas a la placa base.
-
Retira las cintas de las solapas abiertas.
Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.
-
-
-
Retira diez tornillos de 3.0 mm que se encuentran alrededor de la parte frontal de la placa base.
I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.
These screws are 3.0mm long.
-
-
-
Levanta con cuidado la placa hacia arriba lo suficiente para liberar los dos soportes de plástico ubicados cerca de las esquinas superiores de la ranura del cartucho.
-
Voltea suavemente la placa base sobre el lado superior.
Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.
Add to this step, during reassembly: make sure the volume slider and wi-fi sliders are lined up correctly with their outer switches.
-
-
-
Usando el lado de la cabeza plana del spudger, levanta con cuidado la solapa que une la cinta más ancha en el lado superior derecho a la placa base.
-
Retira la cinta de la solapa abierta.
-
Deja la placa base a un lado.
So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help
How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...
Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.
When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!
Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.
It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.
-
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
46 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
Equipo
Cal Poly, Team 9-13, Regan Spring 2014 Miembro de Cal Poly, Team 9-13, Regan Spring 2014
CPSU-REGAN-S14S9G13
5 Miembros
44 Guías creadas
12 comentarios
Does anyone know how to fix the flap on the ribbon because I accidentally removed the whole thing
How do you fix it so it will stop shutting down on start up?
my 3DS XL in turn on, speaker making cracking sound, no display, then power off. is this motherboard issue.
I have the same problem, did you were able to fix it ?
soyeliel -
Hey! I’m not sure if this is any help anymore, but for anyone still wondering: The issue seems to be the speaker ribbon cable assembly. It’s probably torn from the hinge, and needs to be replaced. I had the same issue a long time ago and just replaced it, and it works :)
NICE!Thats a really good instructional guide.
What does the P12 connector actually do? What does the cable go to? If this wasn't hooked up would the 3ds still boot?
Your great
Thank you
I just need to fix the 3D slider bar for my daughter so I can setup the 3DS XL for her. I gave the handheld to her when I was able to afford another one so that we can both play games, but now this issue is preventing full setup on the initial power on cycle since I transferred my account info to my 2DS and it wiped the 3DS XL.
I replaced the upper screen on my 3DS XL and now the image is reversed. How can I fix it?
Hello. Electronic component on motherboard my New nintendo 3ds Xl is broken. (It's name is A6M94AA). Where i may find it?
Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!
justjustintuber - Contestar
what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!
Matthew - Contestar
I had success using a #00 Phillips head
Jake S -
Can't clip the front of the back cover back in
Macro Man - Contestar
I had trouble too, but got past it by slipping the bottom edge into the three indents first then easing the rest of the cover on!
Issu -
I found these were actually #00
Demosthien - Contestar
The screws in the 1st picture are stripped. What screwdriver head do I use?
Adric101 - Contestar