Introducción
La máquina en cuestión es de Magimix. La otra versión disponible(Krups)es muy similar a la de esta guía y las instrucciones también se pueden aplicar a esta.
Antes de nada, ten en cuenta la garantía de tu maquina(normalmente 2 años),tras desmontar(Parcialmente) esta, perderás la garantía del producto.
Desenchufa la maquina y busca un lugar de trabajo que se pueda arañar sin problema(cosa de la que me di cuenta tarde...)
Qué necesitas
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Retira todo el agua del sistema. (Encontrarás como en el manual incluido con la maquina)
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Imagen 2: Diagrama en explosión de la máquina. Fuente: buyspares.com
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Tira hacia delante con ligera fuerza
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Cuando oigas "Clic" ,tira de esta parte hacia abajo. Debería salir con facilidad.
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Usa un destornillador Torx T20(en forma de estrella). Un destornillador que encaje debería funcionar bien
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Cierra el sujeta-vasos firmemente.
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Fotos 2 y 3, Mete el destornillador y muévelo un poco para desenganchar los clips. Hay un total de cuatro clips.
Il serait bien de préciser de quel couvercle latéral on parle : le droit ou le gauche ? Merci.
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Asegúrate de que la muesca coincide y esta alineada.
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Tira de la cubierta. Cuando haya algo de hueco, intenta meter los dedos y tira por los lados.
This is quite delicate, scary and slow! There are more clips and the side can get stuck on the metal lugs that stick out the side. You may have to ease the plastic cover over them.
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Repite los pasos que seguiste en el otro lado.
La photo avec la main me semble trop zoomée. Un plan plus large serait plus explicite. Merci.
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¡¡Desenchufa la máquina antes!! Quita los cables de tierra, vivo y neutro.
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Retira todo el cable de la hendidura.
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Libera estos cuatro puntos y retira la pieza.
When your machine is leaking, this is the right moment to diagnose it once this step is done. I suspect most pressure is on the parts when using a new cup. Screw back the lever to insert a new cup. Reconnect the power cord and put the water tank seat back on so the water container can be used.
When putting the machine back together this point is obviously also the right time to test if everything is working (again) as expected.
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Imagen 1. Haciendo palanca, tira hacia arriba.
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Imagen 2.Libera los dos clips en el interior de la cubierta.
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Imagen 3.Dale la vuelta y levanta la tapa para sacarla.
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Empuja sobre la maquina ,desde el frente hacia detrás. En ese momento, manteniendo la presión, podrás sacarlas
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La parte superior se podrá quitar siguiendo el camino en L con los pines de metal.
Il porta capsula può essere rimosso sganciando le due linguette;
sotto c'è un O-ring che più perdere acqua in pressione che poi fuoriesce sotto la macchina in funzione!
Qualcuno sa dove posso trovare l'O-ring di ricambio???
Grazie!
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Marca uno de los cables negros para facilitar el montaje después.
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Quita los cables amarillo y marrón.
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Y el conector blanco.
When putting the machine back together make sure the spring on the bottom of the pump is propely back in the seating. If not the machine will resonate like crazy.
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Estos clips son difíciles de quitar. Los rectángulos de plástico que albergan los clips de alambre son parte de la tubería en U. Tenlo en cuenta cuando separes el tubo en U de los otros dos tubos (bomba y caldera), que tienen bridas cónicas; es fácil empujar las caras del tubo en U hacia ellas, pero es difícil separarlas.
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Utilizando la perspectiva de la Foto1 como referencia, para facilitar el trabajo, asegúrate de que el fondo está hacia el suelo, y asegúrate de que la tubería metálica está arriostrada, directamente o a través de la caldera apoyada sobre una superficie antideslizante como una alfombrilla de goma o un suelo enmoquetado.
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Coloque el equivalente si trabaja desde el extremo de la bomba de la tubería en U.
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Introduce una herramienta puntiaguda de 2,5 mm de grosor (varilla o plana) en el bucle de alambre que emerge del centro-fondo de la cara de plástico. No hagas que el bucle emerja más lejos, pero puede ensancharlo <1mm con un destornillador de anchura adecuada.
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Los hombros izquierdo y derecho del clip de alambre deben separarse tanto como lo permita la cara de plástico. Empieza insertando (y dejando en su lugar) herramientas similares de 2,5 mm a 3,5 mm de grosor, con punta o cónicas, entre el borde exterior de la cara de plástico y los extremos de alambre expuestos. Inserta cerca de cada hombro.
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Con el clip de alambre separado por tres sitios, comprueba que el alambre del centro de la cara de plástico no sigue abrazando el tubo, sino que sobresale del borde de la brida cónica. Es posible que se necesites otra herramienta puntiaguda para manipular el resto del alambre por encima del borde de la brida cónica.
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Con la perspectiva de la foto 1 (o una vista equivalente desde la bomba), utiliza un dedo a cada lado de la tubería para empujar la cara de plástico lejos de la caldera o lejos de la bomba (hacia el suelo si se ha colocado como se aconsejó anteriormente).
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Es posible que durante este proceso haya que balancear la cara de plástico para manipular cualquier resto de alambre sobre los últimos sub-mm de brida.
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Imagen 1 y 2. Atento a los bordes avellanados, esto mantiene el clip de alambre en su sitio .La reinstalación es simple, solo tienes que juntar y empujar esta parte otra vez en su lugar.
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Esto es lo máximo que he podido desmontar. En mi caso, la parte que puedes ver a la izquierda en la tercera imagen, estaba goteando en la unión entre el plástico y el metal. Por desgracia no pude continuar desmontando nada más.
Van you mark the spot where it was leaking?
I noticed the water in between the plastic and metal part. Only later I was able to take the heater apart with force, the leak was inside, in de middle.
The black part twists a bit to one side that way you can get it off. Needs quite some force, though!
I have a leak at exactly the same spot. How do you fix this? I first thought it was the small o-ring, but I think it's where the heating pipe exits the heater…
I had the same issue and by rotating the plastic part this can be removed from the boiler housing. Inside there is a small o-ring which in my case was worn. Now need to find replacement ring…
Hey Jeroen, I had the same leakage problem, and want to replace the o ring! did you manage to find out which o ring you need? I suspect it is this one, but not sure: https://www.partsnl.nl/ms-0019105-krups-...
Hello, I did not test yet but I replaced the Oring by a nitrile P5 (4.8x1.9) Oring from a Oring kit I have. It fits well and need a little push that feel secured. I recommend nitrile Oring given the temperature and not rubber.
Also got it off, using a screw driver on on side to rotate to the side where there is visibly space to move to. Inside tough, I couldn't find anything, also not that o - ring! Tomorrow I'll take another look I guess. I was wondering if any of you managed to fix the leakage problem in the end, as it seems I have the same problem (magimix m105)
Hi, I had the same problem and arrived to the same step, but I couldn't remove the plastic part from the metal part. In fact I broke a bit the plastic part when forcing it.
I would also like to know if anyone finally fixed it.
Thanks!
Hi, I am close, just ordered a new o ring and will try to assemble tonight or tomorrow, I could show you a little video how to do it if you give me your email, I don't know how to post it here.
I managed to separate the heater from black inner. Held in a vice, gentle tap to turn clockwise and it opens.
There is a little o-ring inside the end of the black plastic. I pulled it out cleaned and reversed it back in.
re-assembled it does not appear to leak, for now at least.
Do you happen to have pictures of the process? I have the same issue and can’t split the heater from the front plastic panel
Can you please show some photos of how to split the black plastic from the heater? Thank you very much in advance
Anyone find the right o-ring to fix the leakage. I tried 2 different one, it all seems to thinner than the original one
VauWeh -
Hi everyone. I seem to have the same exact leak as you all do but haven’t managed to separate the heater from the plastic part yet. I wasn’t planning to as I wanted to fully replace the part. And well, I didn’t think it would be so complicated to find that spare part. You can easily get it from european websites but it’s 230V… For some reason, I cannot find the heater element in 120V through North-American sellers… does anyone know where I could buy one? Thanks a lot :)
Hello Sir. May I ask except for the heater, is there any other part only work in 120V? I have a broken 120v machine ( CPU board broken ) and another broken 220V machine (black plastic part in the heater broken). I want to put the 220v CPU board and heater into the 120V machine. I am wondering if the pump is working on 120V? or it works on a fixed Voltage output by the CPU board? Thank you in advance.
Hoi, Ik wil de Inissia aanpassen voor camping gebruik. Hiervoor zou ik een diode vb P2000M in lijn moeten zetten met de verwarmingsweerstand. Ik heb geprobeerd om de diode in de gele draad te zetten die naar het drukblok loopt (de gele draad die in stap 11 is te zien). Maar dat werkt niet. Het resultaat is een toestel waarvan de lampjes 3 keer kort flitsen, pauze en weer 3 keer kort flitsen. De diode zit dus mogelijk op de verkeerde plaats. Kunnen jullie me verder helpen?
I used a large crowbar as a lever to open the brew unit's bayonet assembly. As mentioned elsewhere, the size of the o-ring (in the cavity of the large black plastic part into which the small black plastic sleeve and metal pipe slide) is 4.8x1.9 mm. In my case, replacing this o-ring did not stop the leakage. A lot of work with no favourable end result. The brew unit does not seem to be made for repair. Regarding the two metal springs and the tiny pipe in the middle of them (behind the cup holder), the following video is useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TY_B_Ytz...
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El ensamblado es igual que desmontarlo pero al revés .Aunque hay algunas cosas que tienes que tener en cuenta.
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Foto 1. Inverso al paso 11: La manera mas fácil de volver a montar el lateral es tumbarlo en plano y bajar el lado interno a su sitio.
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Foto 2.Inverso al paso 11: Asegúrate de que el tubo negro va sobre el tubo blanco.
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Engancha la tórica de goma sobre la bomba.
Also photo 2: make sure the spring is pushing against the plastic flange, and not going through it as pictured. The machine will be very noisy otherwise.
Please clarify do you mean the tube should not be within the spring?
anony Ab -
I think he means that in my photo, on the right side of the spring it went through the cutout in the plastic housing. The tube does need to go through the spring, but the spring needs to be a bit more compressed to seat in the plastic rim. Imagine the spring in my photo to be compressed to about half its current length and it's still touching the left white plastic part.
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Imagen 1:No te olvides de esta cubierta.
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Imagen 2:Inverso al paso 10:Asegurate de que los clips están alineados con las ranuras.
This machine seems to be identical to the Krupps model XN1001. Your instructions were very helpful with the reassembly.
Hey, my nespresso inissia’s cup holder fell off when I was emptying the used pods. I can’t seem to re-attach it. I didn’t find any broken or missing parts either. Please can you contact me on my email: sheza.umar@yahoo.com if you can help me out with it? Thank you!
My clips don't secure the tube to the water heater, leading to leakage. How do you secure the clips? I ended up buying some new clips thinking it would make a difference but they are still very loose and don't hold the tube in
Would you know the size of the o ring in the chamber?
Thank you, this description helped me a lot to repair my DeLongi Type EN 80 B (same). My problem was a o-ring in the pump (inner diameter 4,1 x 2). It was getting hard and the pump did not work any more. I replaced it with a diameter 3,5 x 2 and the machine make good coffee now again.
Traducido a Español el comentario de Matthias:
Gracias, esta descripción me ayudó mucho a reparar mi DeLongi Tipo EN 80 B (igual). Mi problema era una junta tórica en la bomba (diámetro interior 4,1 x 2). Se estaba endureciendo y la bomba ya no funcionaba. La cambié por una de diámetro 3,5 x 2 y la máquina vuelve a hacer buen café.
Me ha venido perfecto tu manual, la férrea me pierde Justo por la unión que comentas y he desmontado la pieza! Para sacarla es necesario girarla el sentido horario con fuerza pero con tiento, y ahí se aloja un sello que se deforma con el tiempo.
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Para volver a montar la maquina, sigue esta guía en orden inverso.Ten en cuenta los pasos 19 y 20.
Para volver a montar la maquina, sigue esta guía en orden inverso.Ten en cuenta los pasos 19 y 20.
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22 comentarios
I wanted to diagnose a leak so I took it apart to about step 10, set the water tank in place, plugged it in, and started a cycle. The heater got hot (the large metal assembly at the top) and when the pump came water gushed out of the joint with the tricky spring clip, the rear one that connects to the metal pipe leading into the heater.
I disassembled the clip (unplugged first and let it cool off) and found that the O-ring inside the joint was split. Now to find a replacement.
Hi Leon, thanks for taking the time to make this guide.
I followed to step 11. Then I noticed the boiler had lots of white limescale streaks on it, indicating a leak. I think this is the part you diagnosed as leaking for you. I’ve decided to give up unfortunately.
Cheers John
There's another stage you can go! The plastic moulding the pod fits into can be removed from the boiler casting. You need to rotate the moulding about 15° clockwise on the boiler using a bit of leverage between the trunions and the moulding both sides. It's rather stiff but once turned it releases a sort of bayonet fitting retaining the moulding to the boiler.
Inside there's another ‘O' ring, that can be suspect for a leak, and a plastic sleeve behind it.
Thank you! Great addition.
do you know the size of the o-ring?
Alex, I haven't measured or taken pictures. The ring is approx 8 mm in diameter (from memory!). Don't know is this is of much use for you, though.
Good luck!
the seal is 4.8x1.9mm
Well done Steven Wilkes
This is a nice guide for a machine that I found to be a nightmare to work on - mainly due to the (all too common) practice of using snap-together plastic components, rather than screws. After the plastic has aged for a few years it inevitably becomes brittle and the clips often break during disassembly. My machine was a Krups Nissia XN100 model what was just on five years old. While there were some differences in the design, your guide was very useful - particularly so because your photos are clear and detailed. I found a leak at the “front” of the heater at the join to the black plastic moulding that forms part of the heater assembly. In an earlier comment, I saw that it’s possible to separate the plastic moulding from the heater so that the O-ring seal can be replaced. Despite applying quite a lot of force, I couldn’t get mine apart :-( I’ve since found that I can buy a new machine for less than three times the cost of a new heater assembly, so I decided to abandon the repair.
Can someone tell me if there is a small circuit-board battery in there that one can remove/replace to reset the machine?
Thanks for this excellent guide. I am nearly there, a utube video suggests it is an o ring. Just need to get the second inner side off now and I should be there! I suspect I will need glue/gaffer tape to re-assemble, I heard a lot of clips breaking to get to this stage…..
This video might help too: https://youtu.be/TY_B_Ytz0Yw
Great helpful guide! My heater assembly was leaking. Ordered a new one on partmaster.co.uk which was half the price of one on a Dutch website. For certainty I also replaced the high pressure connector and o-rings.
I also had a leak between the metal and plastic part of the heater assembly. This was due to a worn o-ring. I could get the plastic part removed by rotating and applying a bit of force. I replaced the o-ring with a new MS-0071881 but still it was leaking. I assumed due to little pressure reamaining. I added a second o-ring on the other side of the small plastic pipe inside the boiler, this added just some extra pressure on the new sealing ring to make it seal.
Buongiorno, la mia inissia si surriscalda troppo, dopo un solo caffè diventa bollente nella parte superiore, il caffè è ustionante, prima di berlo devono passare almeno 7/8 minuti. Cosa può essere?
Mrci bcp vip
For the Magimix the O-ring in the chamber has OD 32mm with a ringwidth of 3mm, so ID(32-6=)26 Look for FDA/ Foodgrade O-rings, with compound ‘70’. They are availlable online (in the Netherlands at least, prices range from eur 8,50 (10-pack) to eur 6,50 a piece.)
Type info: O-ring 32x3 - VMQ - MVQ - Silicone - 70 Shore A - Red - FDA - ORS9901
Excelente informe de despiece, muchas gracias por compartirlo
can someone tell me why there isnt any water coming out of my machine, yes the pump does still turn onn but there isnt any water coming out.
cuando pulso los botones,se encienden los dos haciendo pausas cada tres encendidos ,y no paran que puede ser el motivo ??, gracias
moy5099 - Contestar
Prueba esto: Apague la máquina, mantenga pulsado el botón derecho (vaso grande) hasta que el botón izquierdo parpadee 3 veces, listo. Si esto no funciona: Apague, desenchufe, espere 1min, enchufe y continúe como arriba.
Si tienes mala suerte, esta es la causa: Nespresso CitiZ Kondensatoren tauschen
VauWeh -
Nello spaccato manca la parte che sta a contatto con le capsule e la leggenda con i numeri di riferimento dei pezzi.
Riccardo Ricci - Contestar