Introducción
Usa esta guía para remplazar un cable de datos de la pantalla/cámara que puede haberse desgastado de la apertura y cierre de la pantalla constante.
Qué necesitas
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Retire los ocho tornillos Phillips de 4 mm que sujetan la carcasa inferior al MacBook.
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Levante ligeramente la tapa inferior cerca de la abertura de ventilación.
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Continúa pasando los dedos entre la parte superior e inferior hasta que salgan los clips de retención.
Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?
Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.
Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.
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Usar la punta plana de una spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram
Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!
Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...
@Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?
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Remueve los siguientes tornillos del lado del disco óptico de la rejilla trasera:
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Dos Torx T8 de 10mm
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Dos Phillips de 5.2mm
I have a problem with the two middle screws
same here...
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Remueve los siguientes tornillos del lado de los puertos de la rejilla trasera:
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Dos Torx T8 de 10mm
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Dos Phillips de 5.2mm
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Cuidadosamente levanta la rejilla trasera afuera de la carcasa.
you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily
Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!
matt15 -
Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!
I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.
Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,
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Remueve el único tornillo Phillips de 3 mm asegurando la tira hacia tierra de la antena AirPort/Bluetooth a la bocina derecha.
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Agarra la lengüeta de plástico asegurado al seguro del cable datos de la pantalla y rétala hacia el lado de DC-In de la computadora.
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También hay un clip de bloqueo de metal delgado debajo de la pestaña de plástico que debe soltarse (use la punta de un spudger) antes de poder desconectar el cable de datos de la pantalla.
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Tira con cuidado el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla alejándolo de su zocalo en la placa lógica.
I have several of these machines in various states..mostly the logic boards need checking. I find that the clip for the LCD socket falls off and is almost impossible to reconnect, I think I may have fried some of the logic boards by pushing this connector in without that clip. Is that possible? Any tips? Like i was going to try to insert the LCD connector and place insulating tape to hold it in place..good or bad idea?
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Abre tu MacBook para que la pantalla quede perpendicular a la carcasa superior.
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Pon tu MacBook abierta en u a mesa como mostrado.
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Mientras sostienes la pantalla y la carcasa superior juntos con tu mano izquierda, remueve los tornillos Torx T8 con arandelas de seguridad de 7.8 mm del soporte inferior de la pantalla.
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Inserta el lado plano de un spudger entre la tira de goma delgada rodeando el borde frontal de la pantalla y el borde trasero de la pantalla.
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Usa el lado plano de tu spudger para cuidadosamente levantar el borde frontal de la pantalla lejos del adhesivo asegurándolo a el borde trasero de la pantalla.
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Continua haciendo palanca hasta que el borde frontal de la pantalla sea libre alrededor del lado derecho y detrás de la bisagra derecha.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips de 3 mm que sujeta la cubierta de la bisagra al borde trasero de la pantalla.
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Retira los siguientes seis tornillos que sujetan el LCD al borde trasero de la pantalla.
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Cuatro Phillips de 3.4 mm
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Dos Phillips de 3 mm
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el clip de metal delgado manteniendo el cable de datos de la pantalla a su zocalo en el LCD.
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Tira el cable de datos de la pantalla lejos de su zocalo en el LCD.
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Levanta el LCD afuera del ensamble de la pantalla y déjalo a un lado.
I've read where some people have struggled with reconnecting this cable during reassembly. I found it easier to wait to route the camera cable to the camera until after reconnecting the display data cable and putting the display in place. That way I could pull a little more of the display data cable through towards the display and it gave me more room to work.
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Remueve las dos piezas pequeñas de cinta manteniendo el cable de datos de la pantalla/cámara al borde trasero de la pantalla.
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Para re-ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para re-ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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2 comentarios
I hate apple! Freaks!!
Where Can I buy the Display Data/Camera Cable?
I only found the installing guide..
According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.
Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?
Gregoire - Contestar
They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...
Owen Davies -
The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.
svenaustx - Contestar
Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?
nm - Contestar
A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III
Owen Davies -
hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?
thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.
michelvanaar - Contestar
The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!
I hope that helps!
gdesbrisay -
Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.
John Guzman - Contestar
I just wanted to say that, in 2020, i used these instructions to replace the magsafe socket on my A1286, mid-2012, pre-Retina MacBook Pro. The internal layout is not quite the same but close enough for me to do the job. I skipped the steps of fully disconnecting the fans and speakers because of what others had said about breaking the sockets. it just meant I had to be extremely careful when lifting up the main board so that I did not tear and break the connections. I was able to disconnect the old magsafe socket with the board flat and in situ, but there was no where near enough room to be able to aline and press home the new par home. Reluctantly i had to lever up the board. This was difficult as there is a tapped post that holds a screw in the way close to where the USB sockets are, that prevented the board lifting up and out. I had to be quite forceful to manouevre the sockets out from the edge of the case.
Paul Burridge - Contestar