Introducción
Esta guía te mostrará cómo reemplazar el SuperDrive de tu portátil (requiere un SuperDrive SATA).
Qué necesitas
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Con la carcasa cerrada, coloca el Unibody con la parte superior hacia abajo sobre una superficie plana.
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Presiona el lado ranurado de la pestaña de apertura de la puerta de acceso, lo suficiente como para poder agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta la pestaña de apertura hasta que quede vertical.
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Sujeta la pestaña de plástico blanco y extrae la batería del Unibody.
Great tutorial ! great step !
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Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que aseguran la carcasa inferior al chasis:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 3 mm.
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Tres tornillos Phillips de 13.5 mm.
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Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.
Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...
Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.
You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.
I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.
When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:
1, Top left
2. Top right
3. Top center-left
4. Top center-right
5. Bottom center-right
6. Bottom center-left
7. Bottom right
8. Bottom left
I hope this information is helpful.
I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.
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Usando ambas manos, levanta y retira la carcasa inferior de la carcasa superior.
Thanks for the guide!
It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.
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Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta el conector del subwoofer de la placa lógica.
Me, too, broke the subwoofer connector from the motherboard. I'd suggest removing the padding first so that you can see what kind of connector it is, then pry it loose (insert spudger where the cables enter the connector).
DO NOT REMOVE THE SUBWOOFER CONNECTION. Step 6 IS NOT NESCESSARY.
You can complete this guide without doing step 6 just BE CAREFUL as you already should be.
Oops, I followed Step-6 and my subwoofer connector came off from the motherboard!!! Please suggest me what needs to be done now?
Happened the same to me ... step 6 is a @%#$$. You should put now a way to repair the damage done. I just have four small tin marks on the board ...
Happened the same problem to me ... step 6 is a @%#$$**%%#. You should put now a way to repair the damage done. I just have four small tin marks on the board ... and looking to sky for help
There are two variants of this connector. In one, there are pins that come up from the motherboard and the connector can be pried directly up without damage.
The other variant of the connector that everyone commenting here has is soldered to the motherboard. To repair this type, first pull off the small square of foam padding on top of the connector. Then gently pull out the four black and red wires, leaving the soldered connector attached to the logic board. After you have installed the new speaker and subwoofer, you will remove the connector on the replacement component and carefully feed the red and black wires into the connector that is still attached to the motherboard (paying careful attention to their correct order). Then replace the square of black foam.
If you have removed the soldered on the connector, your two options are to solder it on yourself or to find a repair shop that can do that for you. There are instructables online for soldering tiny components that can help you.
Reading all of these comments prior to beginning the work, I didn’t even try to investigate the type of connector my laptop had. I just DIDN’T attempt removal of this connector, worked around it, and as others have mentioned, it is truly unnecessary to remove this connector. You can move the subwoofer (after removal of its other screws) out of the way just enough to slip out the old drive and slip in the new drive.
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Desconecta el cable de la cámara tirando del extremo macho hacia fuera de su conector.
The lack of warning “Be careful not to pull up on the cable as you remove it from the socket.” here, as is displayed on a similar step on the “MacBook Unibody Model A1278 AirPort Card Replacement” guide, has caused me to break the cable. My WiFi is not working anymore. How can I replace only this cable? Thank you.
Bonjour J’ai eu le malheur de toucher à ce câble et depuis je n’ai plus de retro-éclairage sur mon écran. Est-ce lié ?
Hello I had the misfortune to touch this cable and since then I have no more backlight on my screen. Is it related? (but the computer works fine when I plug in a screen)
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Retira los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable de la cámara a la carcasa superior.
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Retira los tres tornillos Phillips de 2,5 mm que sujetan el disco óptico a la carcasa superior.
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Retira el cable de la unidad óptica tirando de él en línea recta para separarlo de la unidad óptica.
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Retira los dos tornillos Phillips nº 0 negros que sujetan el pequeño soporte de montaje metálico. Transfiere este soporte a tu disco óptico nuevo o la caja del disco duro.
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Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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8 comentarios
I ruined my laptop because of this guide.
The step 6 says it's a connector that comes of (sub-woofer), mine was welded, I broke it, I cannot fix it.
i am frustrated, and I know I should only blame myself for following blindly that guide.
But at least I thought I should let people know : be careful when removing that sub-woofer connector!!!
I also broke the sub-woofer connector away from the board, the connection to the board is very fragile, however I managed to solder the connector back on with a very fine soldering iron, (tricky). but it worked. I don't think it is really necessary to disconnect the sub-woofer cable to remove the optical drive, I'll find out when I get a new one to replace the old broken one. To remove the subwoofer cable it would be necessary to hold the connector in place while the plug is very carefully prized up from the lead side without moving the connector socket.
Completed this one successfully. Now running OCZ 256 GB SSD in main bay and WD Black 320GB in optical bay.
My computer had a different optical drive than shown. Instead of the screws going through the body of the drive, it was secured by two screws at the corners opposite the screw by the connectors (i.e, along the wall where the CD slot is). In addition, in order to repair the drive, black tape sealing the unit had to be peeled back in order to open it (and the screws underneath the tape were placed slightly differently).
Fixed my optical drive my Mac book runs great
Just a small tip: I wanted to replace my optical drive that I took from my older MB (A1181) with the broken optical drive in my newer-but still old- MB (A1278). But the drives aren't the same. The connectors don't fit and you can't replace them. So don't try to do this, if you planned to do it.
I broke the connector, too. Thanks to this guide. why don't they change the step 6?
This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.
Brad Burgeson - Contestar
This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.
Nicholas -
So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.
tempelmann - Contestar