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Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261

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  1. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261, Batería: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Utiliza los dedos para empujar las dos lengüetas de liberación de la batería y sácala del ordenador.

    Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

    amiller770 - Contestar

    Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

    Noah Nsangou - Contestar

    mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

    on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

    david -

    I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

    2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

    2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

    Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

    Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

    scannon - Contestar

    You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

    asle -

    There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

    His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

    Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

    Phil - 10/07/2015

    at0gjm -

    Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?

    basile kouamé YAO - Contestar

  2. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261, Escudo RAM: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips idénticos de 3,4 mm de la puerta de la memoria. Estos tornillos tienen cabezas de 4 mm de diámetro en lugar de las cabezas de 3 mm de los tornillos del cuerpo.

  3. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta la puerta de la memoria lo suficiente para agarrarla y deslícela hacia ti, separándola de la carcasa.

  4. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261, Carcasa Superior: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips del compartimento de la batería, cerca del pestillo. Apple tuvo la amabilidad de inclinar estos tornillos en un ligero ángulo para facilitar su extracción. En el A1261 estos tornillos tienen cabezas de 4 mm de diámetro en lugar de las cabezas de 3 mm en los tornillos del cuerpo.

    One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

    Damon B - Contestar

    To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.

    I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.

    Yishai Sered - Contestar

    No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.

    Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.

    The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).

    Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?

    (By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)

    Steve Arkwright - Contestar

  5. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los seis tornillos siguientes:

    • Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 14,5 mm a cada lado de la ranura RAM.

    • Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3,4 mm a lo largo de la bisagra.

    Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

    R L - Contestar

    The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

    Alex - Contestar

    These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

    Andrew Patterson - Contestar

  6. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3,4 mm del lado del puerto del ordenador.

    When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

    isotope434 - Contestar

  7. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Gira el ordenador 90 grados y retira los dos tornillos Phillips de la parte posterior del ordenador.

    Screw on the right is shorter

    mikefal - Contestar

    What are these two screws called?

    ian - Contestar

  8. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Gira de nuevo el ordenador 90 grados y retire los cuatro tornillos Phillips del lateral del ordenador.

  9. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • No tires de la caja superior rápidamente. La carcasa está unida a la placa lógica a través de un cable plano.

    • Levanta la parte posterior del estuche y mueve los dedos a lo largo de los lados, liberando el estuche a medida que avanza. Una vez que hayas liberado los lados, es posible que debas mover la caja hacia arriba y hacia abajo para liberar la parte delantera de la caja superior.

    WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

    nya - Contestar

    Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

    Troy - Contestar

    Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

  10. Sustitución de la Carcasa Superior para MacBook Pro 17" modelos A1151 A1212 A1229 y A1261: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Desconecta el cable plano del trackpad y del teclado de la placa lógica.

    • Retira la mayúscula.

    Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

    amiller770 - Contestar

    It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

    Russ Greene - Contestar

    how reconnect this cable?

    anatole - Contestar

    I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

    tobybaier - Contestar

    After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.

    Steve colton - Contestar

Conclusión

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iRobot

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