Introducción
This guide shows the hidden screws you must remove when replacing the keyboard.
Qué necesitas
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
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Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.
I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.
No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.
Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.
The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).
Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?
(By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)
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Remove the following six screws:
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Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
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Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.
These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.
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Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!
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Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.
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Remove the upper case.
Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.
It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.
After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.
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Use a spudger to pry up the translucent plastic sheath covering the keyboard connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black plastic flaps locking down the keyboard and keyboard backlight ribbon cables.
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There are four locking tabs along the back edge of the keyboard holding it in place. These tabs must be straightened before you can remove the keyboard.
On my 1261, there are 6 locking tabs -- one is hidden under the remaining black strip -- you can see the bump if you look closely in the picture (at the right). You can tell as when you try to pull out the keyboard, it sticks. Just as well, as the replacement keyboard has 6 tabs.
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Maintaining your hold on the keyboard, lay the casing flat and gently bow the keyboard until the two tabs on either side of the keyboard come free.
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Slide the keyboard away from the trackpad and out of the upper case.
The keyboard on the A1229 has no side tabs, so there is no need to flex the keyboard to disengage it. Once the six locking tabs are free, and the keyboard is lifted slightly out of its cavity on the upper case, simply slide it away from the trackpad area. There are six flat tabs (on the opposite edge of the keyboard from the six locking tabs) which simply slide out of their slots on the upper case.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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4 comentarios
I was able to complete the process but the keyboard backlight does not work. When I press the up/down buttons for the keyboard backlight intensity, the widget for showing the keybaord backlight intensity is displayed on the screen but with a zero with a slash through it and no bars for the intensity. I rechecked the two steps having to do with the backlight cable to ensure it was firmly connected but I still don't get backlight anymore. :(
This is not a problem because your backlight is not broken in any way. Simply try again when it’s dark and it will work properly.
Max Mara -
Grazie ! Guida Eccezzionale ! Cambiata tastiera senza nessun problema !
hi, can hi use the keyboard of macbook pro 15 A1226 for a macbook pro 17 A1229?
thanks!
posso utilizzare la tastiera del macbook pro 15 A1226 e installarla in un macbook pro 17 A1229?
Grazie!
Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)
amiller770 - Contestar
Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?
Noah Nsangou - Contestar
mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine
on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.
david -
I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?
2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151
2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz
Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB
scannon - Contestar
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
asle -
There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...
His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Phil - 10/07/2015
at0gjm -
Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?
basile kouamé YAO - Contestar